Bushings came in today. Will start installation tomorrow.
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Today proved more challenging than expected. The 2000 Sportage had a life in Wisconsin prior to making it to Oklahoma. As a result, the salt during winter did quite the number on the chassis. Three lower mounts were still attached. However, they were quite crumbly. Interesting enough, they were made in Germany.
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As you can see, the bolts were not much better shape. Attached is the driver's side rear door bolt. The upper spacer here is completely rotted away and the washer is almost rusted away.
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Unfortunately, I had to remove the front bumper. While the upper bushings were good in front, the bumper kept hanging to the body during the lift. Appears the upper bushings are well over 2 inches in diameter. So not sure how well my smaller diameter polyurethane bushings will hold up.
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Since I took the front bumper off, I'm also taking the rear bumper off during the body lift. The lowers side panels behind the rear wheels proved a little challenging for removal. But they have to be remove in order to remove the bumper.
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I tried lifting the body just by the rear driver's door. The post of wood I used was too narrow. The floor started to buckle. When I placed a longer and wider block underneath, the body began to lift as a whole. That's when I noticed that the front bumper was not staying separate from the body.
ran out of daylight today. More updates tomorrow.
ran out of daylight today. More updates tomorrow.
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Sorry for the delay in finishing this up. Had a cold snap over the weekend. That and the kids activities with school interfered.
Regardless, I finished the job today minus putting the bumpers back on. As you can see below, I followed Chris' advise and removed the fuel filler hose from the body. And eventually replaced the sheared bolts that broke off due to rust. Please note that the bolt on the inside of the wheel well allows the tube to hang free underneath the vehicle.
Also, thanks to Chris, I found that hidden wire connection on the rear bumper under the grommet. Thanks Chris!
Regardless, I finished the job today minus putting the bumpers back on. As you can see below, I followed Chris' advise and removed the fuel filler hose from the body. And eventually replaced the sheared bolts that broke off due to rust. Please note that the bolt on the inside of the wheel well allows the tube to hang free underneath the vehicle.
Also, thanks to Chris, I found that hidden wire connection on the rear bumper under the grommet. Thanks Chris!
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The rear four mounts were replaced. The rear mount below had been bouncing around and folded over the metal seat/washer. The passenger side mount was rotted, but the metal was still good. Unbeknownst to me, the upper metal piece is cold welded to the body. No wonder they wouldn't separate!
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I used the lower metal piece from the lower mounts that had rotted away. I enlarged the hole to slide over the bolt. (They are designed to not compress past the top of the threads. Additionally, I enlarged the center hole of the polyurethane mounts. After slipping them over the bolt, I used a fender washer to reinforce the lower area that attaches to the frame. Lots of silicone grease was used for the bushings.
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All in all, it turned out well. After replacing the upper mounts, the rear door closed much smoother. Will test drive tomorrow after replacing bumpers to see if there is a difference. The finished upper is shown below.
The only concern I have is the diameter of the new bushing. The upper bushings are pretty large diameter . Almost 3.5 inches. So, hopefully the added stiffness of the smaller diameter polyurethane will not have negative results. If it doesn't work out, I may opt for Energy Suspension's Universal Body mount that uses the 2.5 inch bushings and is 70A Durometer. Below is the rusted remains of one of the upper mount metal retainers.
The only concern I have is the diameter of the new bushing. The upper bushings are pretty large diameter . Almost 3.5 inches. So, hopefully the added stiffness of the smaller diameter polyurethane will not have negative results. If it doesn't work out, I may opt for Energy Suspension's Universal Body mount that uses the 2.5 inch bushings and is 70A Durometer. Below is the rusted remains of one of the upper mount metal retainers.
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One thing I forgot to notate earlier, you have to do your best to remove the old rubber mount. It's nasty and hard to get at, but you need to remove it in order for the new mount to seat properly.
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