My Sportage no longer has upper and lower bushings for 6 of the 8 locations. Pulled some lower bushings from a 2002 Sportage in a junkyard. Discovered that the lack of upper bushings left too much space for the lowers to be tightened. After a lot of research, I am attempting to install some mounts from Energy Suspension 9.9529 for the top bushings. The parts are ordered and when they arrive, I'll document the install.
I've seen a couple of people lift the body on one side when using lifting blocks. Then do the opposite side. Since my Sportage bolts are fixed, I will have to lift the body high enough to clear the frame and slide a new bushing in place. Other than checking hoses and lines for tension, are there any other issues I need to be prepared for?
The lack of information on this procedure is what's prompting me to document and share my experiment. Hopefully, it'll help someone else out. The information on 4x4wire is old enough that I can't seem to get any of the photos to display when reviewing the threads. For now, I'm just replacing the upper mounts with Polyurethane. The lower ones are much easier to do, since you don't have to lift the body off the frame.
Today proved more challenging than expected. The 2000 Sportage had a life in Wisconsin prior to making it to Oklahoma. As a result, the salt during winter did quite the number on the chassis. Three lower mounts were still attached. However, they were quite crumbly. Interesting enough, they were made in Germany.
Unfortunately, I had to remove the front bumper. While the upper bushings were good in front, the bumper kept hanging to the body during the lift. Appears the upper bushings are well over 2 inches in diameter. So not sure how well my smaller diameter polyurethane bushings will hold up.
Since I took the front bumper off, I'm also taking the rear bumper off during the body lift. The lowers side panels behind the rear wheels proved a little challenging for removal. But they have to be remove in order to remove the bumper.
I tried lifting the body just by the rear driver's door. The post of wood I used was too narrow. The floor started to buckle. When I placed a longer and wider block underneath, the body began to lift as a whole. That's when I noticed that the front bumper was not staying separate from the body.
be careful with your fuel filler hose , fuel line and hose up near the engine bay, clutch line near the bellhousing and handbrake cable. I also loosened my steering column, drier filter bracket for the aircon and radiator.
Most important is to watch your heater hoses and you don't snap the heater core.
I started this as well for a body lift but after the photo bucket debacle I didn't finish the tutorial.
I was lucky enough to be able to use a hoist to lift the body when I did my body lift and replaced all the body bushings at the same time.
Still have a heap of photos I took from fitting my 1 3/8 body lift.
Thanks for the insight Chris. Will definitely keep those things in mind. Did you disconnect the fuel filler hose completely? Or just loosen it from the tank? I'm trying to lift it mainly from the rear. The front four upper mounts ( front bumper and front doors) appear to still be functional. But everything else must be replaced. Seriously debating on cutting off the body bolts flush with body then drilling and tapping new holes to accept a standard 3/8 or 8mm thread. Then if I have to replace anything again, or decide to do a full body lift, I'll have less trouble.
Also if you haven't already done so you will need to disconect your rear fog lights when removing the rear bumper. The connector is hidden under a grommet roughly in the middle of the car at the rear, just after the sunken floor storage area.
Sorry for the delay in finishing this up. Had a cold snap over the weekend. That and the kids activities with school interfered.
Regardless, I finished the job today minus putting the bumpers back on. As you can see below, I followed Chris' advise and removed the fuel filler hose from the body. And eventually replaced the sheared bolts that broke off due to rust. Please note that the bolt on the inside of the wheel well allows the tube to hang free underneath the vehicle.
Also, thanks to Chris, I found that hidden wire connection on the rear bumper under the grommet. Thanks Chris!
The rear four mounts were replaced. The rear mount below had been bouncing around and folded over the metal seat/washer. The passenger side mount was rotted, but the metal was still good. Unbeknownst to me, the upper metal piece is cold welded to the body. No wonder they wouldn't separate!
I used the lower metal piece from the lower mounts that had rotted away. I enlarged the hole to slide over the bolt. (They are designed to not compress past the top of the threads. Additionally, I enlarged the center hole of the polyurethane mounts. After slipping them over the bolt, I used a fender washer to reinforce the lower area that attaches to the frame. Lots of silicone grease was used for the bushings.
All in all, it turned out well. After replacing the upper mounts, the rear door closed much smoother. Will test drive tomorrow after replacing bumpers to see if there is a difference. The finished upper is shown below.
The only concern I have is the diameter of the new bushing. The upper bushings are pretty large diameter . Almost 3.5 inches. So, hopefully the added stiffness of the smaller diameter polyurethane will not have negative results. If it doesn't work out, I may opt for Energy Suspension's Universal Body mount that uses the 2.5 inch bushings and is 70A Durometer. Below is the rusted remains of one of the upper mount metal retainers.