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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I finally hit 120,000 miles a few weeks ago and decided it was time to do the timing belt and water pump. I ordered everything in advance off of Rock Auto. I ended up replacing the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, tensioner pulley and idler pulley and thermostat. I think I spent close to $300 for all of it which isn't bad compared to the dealership prices. I am an ex-mechanic so I basically knew what I was up against. The whole job wasn't too bad, but some of it can be quite the pain and maybe a little more than the weekend warrior may want to tackle. To make it a little easier I ordered a crank pulley tool from OTC which made the removal of the crank pulley much easier and it worked excellent for torquing the crank bolt when I was putting it back together. I think the tool only cost about fifty bucks off of Amazon and it was well worth it.

I purchased some 3" * 1/4 inch bolts with washers and nuts to hold the cams in place before removing the belt. I will add some pics to show how I used them. One other tool that I wish I had purchased was a socket that would fit the holes in the tensioner pulley. I was able to set it with some snap ring pliers that I had but it was a little frustrating.

Installing the timing belt was a little tricky since the right side cam pulleys moved on me a bit (my fault for not tightening up my holding bolt a little better). I started the belt on the crank pulley and then over the idler and onto the first set of cam pulleys. As I got the belt on the first pulley I put a wire tie through the pulley and around the belt to keep it secure while I was finishing the rest of them. I also put a wire tie on each pulley as I got the belt installed on them. This worked out great because even if your cam sprocket moves a bit while you are aligning the others it will come back into place once the belt is in place on all of the pulleys.

All in all it's not that bad if you just take your time and pay attention to the details! It was a bit scary on the first startup after the install, but if you keep all of your timing marks in place and follow the proper procedure there isn't that much to worry about. :)

You can also view more photos at 2004 Sorento Timing Belt change pictures by timo123451 - Photobucket

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Timosorento: well done on the pictures!!! I am at 63,000 miles and will be doing mine real soon. I already have all the parts except what I did not need (ie, water pump, hydraulic tensioner) I also got the spark plugs and a fuel filter as this will be done too. Now a question I need to ask you. What is the preset load tension on the tensioner pulley. Did you just take up the slack or apply a little more tension. Thanks again for the pictures
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Timosorento: well done on the pictures!!! I am at 63,000 miles and will be doing mine real soon. I already have all the parts except what I did not need (ie, water pump, hydraulic tensioner) I also got the spark plugs and a fuel filter as this will be done too. Now a question I need to ask you. What is the preset load tension on the tensioner pulley. Did you just take up the slack or apply a little more tension. Thanks again for the pictures
On the tensioner pulley I just used my snap ring pliers and rotated it counter clockwise until all the slack was out and I just kept as much tension as I could on it while I was tightening the bolt. I've seen different instructions that say you can just take up the slack and I've seeen some that said to apply 40 ft.lb to it. If I were to do it again I would like to find the right tool for it but it can be done without. The instructions have you adjust all the slack out before you pull the pin on the tensioner.
 

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???

Very nice post .

One thing : this is a gasoline motor ?

My Sorento as a 2.5 CRDI diesel engine , and looks very similar to this ...

You should upload info about your engine to your profile ;)


Thank you . :sunce:
 

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I also just replaced mine. I also did the WP, Valve cover gaskets, SPlugs and wires, both heater hoses in rear, drive belts, plug tube gaskets, A/C oil, drive belt idler and O-rings on the water pipes. I also purchased the majority of the parts from Rock Auto. I also replaced the suction hose on the A/C. It has had a pin hole leak for some time. I made the crankshaft holder tool and the adjuster. I put pics for you all to see. With the scrap steel, a nut and bolt and some metal working skill you can too. All in all I would do it again. I learned a thing or 2 so it is not so intimidating as I thought. I helps to have the right tools. Homemade or bought.


The holes are 2.75 inches center to center. The bolts are grade 8 X 7/16"
I made the short one to be able to turn the crank when I had the plugs out. It made it nice when I had to spin the engine over to check the belt and marks.
 

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This is straight from these forums.....
http://www.kia-forums.com/kia-carnival-sedona/37061-3-5l-v6-interference-engine.html

by a poster called bluedevils...
ok, here is the wording from the 'Tech Times' article on Kia Global Information System (KGIS)

Quote "Tech Line tells us they get a fair amount of calls asking about valve/piston interference on our engines.

The Sportage and Sephia/Spectra are the only "freewheeling engines." The valves do not interfere with the pistons if the timing belt fails. (Spectras pre 2004.5 only after 2004.5 Interference type)

All other Kia engines are "interference engines.” The valves may interfere with the pistons if valve timing is off.

The article is from early 2005 and the article number is KT20050302142. I hope this helps." Unquote.... by bluedevils

Searching both the web with GOOGLE and this forum WILL get you answers.
Dave
 

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Stubborn Harmonic Balancer stuck to crank - is ok to hit/tap off?

Hi every one,

I had some trouble over the last winter that Im still recovering from, and now have discovered that I need to replace my head gaskets. I have already replaced the water pump, which was damaged, but after doing that the car started to seep coolant into the oil and not maintain compression, hence the head gasket replacement job.

My question is, to remove the harmonic balancer - is it ok to tap it with a sledge after you remove the crank bolt? Or is there some 'official' way to get it off? :confused:

I would like to go ahead and do the timing belt replacement now with the head gaskets, I didn't before with the water pump because I was afraid hitting the harmonic balancer might damage the crank or something close. I had thought, just replace the water pump (which I jimmied the lower panel away to give me clearance) then I thought it should be fine/no need to do anything else if it aint broken. .... darn it, stupid head gaskets. .....

That balancer pulley is on there, even after I remove the bolt - I can't easily get it off. I'm swallowing my pride in the event that I am sounding like a wuss - but I really dont want to cause any more unnecessary trouble and would like to be sure/know how others got their harmonic balancer OFF the crankshaft.

My car is a 2003 Sorento EX.

Thanks much all!
 

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You can buy a harmonic balancer puller for less than $15 for a cheap one that will work at just about any auto parts store or sears tool department.
 

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I know this is an old post but. I am needing to replace the crank shaft position sensor. Do I need to remove the big aluminum bracket and the crank pully to get to it?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I honestly don't remember, it was a while ago when I did this. Either way it shouldn't be that bad to replace the crank sensor.
 

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Hello to the forum. not sure if it's in bad taste for my first post to be in a sticky , but i have ran into an issue while doing a timing job on an 05 Sorento.

I work for a used car lot , so this isnt my personal car. It was bought at an online auction sight unseen. basically once it was delivered , the car was driven about 50 miles , and the crank pulley pulley bolt must have been streching or backing out , because the roll pin sheared , about 3/4 the way up.


anyways , my question with the diy , is you said you put the crank on first. when i was doing the initial belt layup , i started with the "right" (passenger) cam gear (outside , exhaust iirc) , then the other passenger cam , wp , etc etc. With the crank last. while i had some concern for the possibility that i might not have it tight enough and end up one tooth different.

anyways , while i was pondering it , it seemed to make sense to leave the crank for last ; taking into account the tensioner location.


oh , and the passenger side cams flipped on me as well. my "cam lock" was zip ties on the drivers side (to hold the belt on) , and the old crank gear on the passenger side. i like your lock much better , and its waaaay cheaper than the one everyone quoted me , which was a lisle H style adapter for 30$ for one. what did you spend on that custom job , about $3.91 ?


love the diy. got a couple more kia's on the lot and i hope the site has this kind of info.


-hov
 

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Standard Harmonic Balancer puller doesn't work on the Sorento. The 2 holes in the balancer are NOT threaded. There appears to be a pin at the bottom of the balancer if you look where the Crank Bolt came out, but if it is true that you can use a rubber hammer to remove it, I'm on my way out to try it.
 
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