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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am completely baffled by this. I have a 2001 kia sportage ex 2wd. It randomly started misfireing and the check engine light was flashing so I started trying to fix it. The compression test was good, the fuel system is good, the timing belt is good, and the valves are good... Also the check engine light is on and flashes every once in a while and I am not able to pull any codes off the computer and and friend tried his obd2 checker on it as well and it didn't work. Could the computer be bad??

Here is the list of parts I have replaced already within the last week:
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Battery
Both ignition coils
Both ignition wires to sparkplugs
All four spark plugs (NGK BKR6EGP)
Valve cover gasket
Thermostat
Gutted out both the warm-up and main catalytic converters
Replaced the catalytic converter gaskets
Replaced exhaust manifold gaskets
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After replacing all of these parts I did test for spark from the ignition coils. I am not getting spark on cylider 1 and 3, which are both the cyliders with the ignition wires connection to the ignition coils. I have replaced the wires and still no spark on 1 or 3.

What can cause the ignition coil to spark just 2 and 4 but not spark through the external wire conection which is 1 and 3?!?!
 

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Caribou, Otter, Buffalo
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You have a waste spark system, either the coil to spark plug is shorted or the HT wires are not contacting the coil output correctly..... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
how do i make sure the coil is not shorted? how would it be shorted out when they are brand new? Also, I crimped the wire harness that are connected to the coils to make sure they have a good connection.
 

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2000 Sportage EX 4x4 A/T, 2008 Harley Davidson Nightrain
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how do i make sure the coil is not shorted? how would it be shorted out when they are brand new? Also, I crimped the wire harness that are connected to the coils to make sure they have a good connection.
I haven't taken a close look at sportage coils, but you should be able to use a mutimeter and take resistance readings on the coil to see if it's good. The service manual should have what points to measure and the resistance readings you should get if they're good.
 

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02 Sportage 4x4...66 Shelby GT350...70 Mercury Cyclone Spoiler
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How are you checking for spark? Do you mean there is no visible spark, or the cylinders are just dead?
 

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1997 Sportage, 2007 Lexus GS450h, 1962 "S" series Valiant
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You have replaced a number of components but I am interested in why you gutted the cats. Usually when a cat clogs ( indicated by a very hot floor pan after driving for a while) the cause is the primary O2 sensor or a shot coil pack.
As you have replaced the coil packs and leads I would be checking the Pin connectors in front of the coil packs as this model of KIA is notorious for dry joints ( can usually fix by unplugging and plugging back in).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
@wolf_7669 Well the ignition wires are fine because they are brand new and I tested them.

@tommyleea I took out each spark plug (brand new) and had my friend hold it with a pliers and watched for a spark. Number 1 and 3 cylinders are not getting any spark.

@wpj_kia I bought the car with the cats already gutted, the reason I stated that they are gutted already is because mechanics keep telling me "it's probably a clogged cat" so I wanted to make sure everyone knew the cat is gutted so nobody can tell me it's a clogged cat problem lol. Oh and I know about the ignition coil pack plugs that don't even stay in, I actually crimped the metal plug for the ignition coil wire harness to make sure it has a good connection.


Any other ideas????
 

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2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
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What is strange is that only one of the plugs fire and it is usually the local one (coil on plug). The remote plug is the ones not firing.

I looked at a waste spark system diagram and the secondary of the HV transformer (coil) connects to a coil on each end of it's windings.

The way it's wired I could see "if" one plug was totally out (disconnected) that the secondary circuit would not be completed and there should be no spark on the other plug.

The spark jumps both plugs at the same time to "complete" the secondary circuit loop.

If there were a short on either wire (or plug) the other plug would still fire as the short would complete the circuit.

It sounds like there is a short in one leg of the circuit from the coil to ground. it would not have to be a dead short (0 ohms)...a resistance of say 10k ohms to ground could keep a plug from firing ...BUT...replacing the coils,plugs and wires removes any chance of a short...

Has any one tried laying the "dead" plug on the engine block and tapping the negative terminal of the coil to ground (through a wire) to see "if" that dead plug fires when the coil is manually fired? Maybe the primary voltage (12v) is too low or the primary current is being limited.

The primary circuit path basically is
...from the Positive terminal of battery
...Through the IGN fuse to
...12v from the ignition switch
...to the positive terminal of the coil
...from the negative terminal of the coil
...to the ECM (switching transistors inside)
...from the switching transistors to ground (through a ground lead coming from the
ECM)
...through the body of the car back to the negative terminal of the battery.

The ECM grounds the coil primary to fire the coil.

Because the "problem" plugs seems to always be the remote plug (through a spark plug wire) I wonder if there is just enough primary energy to fire the local plug and not enough for the remote plug because of the "added" resistance of the carbon wires...

Try checking the ECM's ground connections..

Diagram from Wikipedia..
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0b/Allumage_2cv.svg/713px-Allumage_2cv.svg.png
Dave
 

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02 Sportage 4x4...66 Shelby GT350...70 Mercury Cyclone Spoiler
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I would start at the plugs and work backwords. Remove the wires and ohm them out even thought they are new. Check the connections at each end, and make sure they are intact. In my mind I have to think the problem is somewhere between the coil and the plug itself. Maybe a defective set of wires.
 

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RacingRyan, did you ever get this resolved?

I have recently had an issue where one of my coils and sparkplugs failed. Actually the Sparkplug stripped and came out of the system and wrecked the coil. I had to use a heli-coil set to fix the spark plug hole. After fixing that and getting new coil and sparkplugs my Kia Sportage started good and sounded good.

But when I go for test drive and put a little power into the system then it will suddenly lose power and the light will start flashing. I then got it back home and let it idle and it again seemed fine, but my scanner stated that I multiple misfires occurred. I then reset the codes and tried again. It would again start and run fine and I revved it quite a bit and no issues, but as soon as I put a load on the system trying to drive it it will again lose power and misfire.

So what else could be the issue?
 

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1998 Kia Sportage 2WD Base Model
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RacingRyan, did you ever get this resolved?

I have recently had an issue where one of my coils and sparkplugs failed. Actually the Sparkplug stripped and came out of the system and wrecked the coil. I had to use a heli-coil set to fix the spark plug hole. After fixing that and getting new coil and sparkplugs my Kia Sportage started good and sounded good.

But when I go for test drive and put a little power into the system then it will suddenly lose power and the light will start flashing. I then got it back home and let it idle and it again seemed fine, but my scanner stated that I multiple misfires occurred. I then reset the codes and tried again. It would again start and run fine and I revved it quite a bit and no issues, but as soon as I put a load on the system trying to drive it it will again lose power and misfire.

So what else could be the issue?
Two things come to mind.

1. Catalytic converter blockage.

2. Engine out of time.

The way to check for a blocked cat is to remove the upstream O2 sensor and take it for a (noisy) test drive, if power returns you're engine is having a hard time "breathing out" and the hole where the O2 sensor was previously is allowing a relief of pressure.

The way to check for timing is harder, you have to remove the 3 belts, harmonic balancer, fan clutch/shroud, upper radiator hose, thermostat housing and water outlet, fan clutch mounting bracket, upper/lower timing cover, timing belt, crank gear (check woodruff key and notch, you want to see clean straight edges). You will want to verify all timing marks line up before removing the belt, if they don't be prepared to purchase a new belt and tensioner/idler and go ahead and throw a water pump in it while you're there. If they do line up this is where what I mentioned about the woodruff key and the crank snout come in to play.

Or, you could go to a parts store and pick up a compression tester. Bonus is it's cool to own one anyway. :cool:
 

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Gen 1 Vanilla Soul Shaker 1.6 crdi Auto 2013
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MRed1524 just sorted similar problem.


Problem Solved!!!! YAY! I cleaned both coil packs, at each spark plug boot and wire harness into the coils, cleaned the battery and alternator. I reset Check engine light. It came back on after 15 miles. So I removed the Chassis Acceleration Sensor. I cleaned that up and noticed the wires were DAMAGED at the connector clip. I cut and replaced those with a new harness connector for 15 bucks at local Auto Parts Store, I ordered a new chassis acceleration sensor from "RockAuto" for 24 bucks, car dealer in PHX, AZ did not have in stock and wanted 53$. This one is made by Auto7 which is OEM for Kia and Hyundai apparently. The part #5020010 fits KIA-SEPHIA (1998 - 2001) KIA-SPECTRA (2000 - 2004) KIA-SPORTAGE (1996 - 2002)


You can search his post or find on todays posts.
Jeff
 
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