Kia Forum banner

1 - 1 of 1 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The top part of our radiator cracked under the hose. Car has 150,000 miles.
We bought it new from the dealer.

A new replacement was sent over (for a very decent price) and the
job was done in just a few hours with only a few tools.

Here is how we replaced our radiator:

1. Lift vehicle at front tow hook point. High enough to get two jackstands
under the frame just forward of front wheels. Set stands. Remove jack.

2. Remove 3 10mm head bolts holding the plastic access plate just
after the lower radiator support on drivers side (left side).

Remove radiator drain plug from bottom and drain remaining fluid.

3. The access plate removal makes it possible to get the 10mm with phillips
head fastener removed from left side radiator, about half way up.
I used a 3/8 drive with universal on the end to get this fastener out.

You do not remove transmission cooling lines (automatic) or lower
radiator hose at the bottom. Something I found interesting.

Now go topside. On the right/passenger side there is a 10mm with phillips head fastener half way down, much easier to get to with a socket and
short extension, I finished this one using a screwdriver.

I found those two half-way down fasteners last in my adventure, but if you do them first the rest goes easy.

4. Remove upper radiator hose. Disconnect 4 electrical connectors on
left side that cross and obstruct the trans lines and lower radiator hose.
With connectors out of way proceed to slide trans line and radiator hose
clamps back and slip ends off . The radiator lifts out with lower hose
and two trans lines attached.

5. Next to my battery tray was one small connector, removing this and pushing out of way makes lifting out radiator easier.
Remove the overflow bottle hose.

6. Unplug two electrical connectors going to the two fans. Some connectors
have a U shaped metal lock on the connectors that is easily removed with needle nose or flat blade screwdriver.

7. Remove upper radiator supports with 12mm socket, one on each side.
After removing the main bracket, remove the two 10mm with phillips head
screw that are under the main radiator supports. These last two screws keep
the radiator connector to the AC condenser.

8. With everything disconnected lift out the old radiator. Takes a little
wiggle and some careful moving around. But I lifted out the entire unit with two fans and lower hoses.

9. Lay down old radiator and proceed to remove 3 10mm with phillips heads
holding the two fans on, notice how one fan goes under the other on the top middle connector. Remove the lower radiator hose and both trans lines.

10. Here is where you decide to replace the hose or lines, or fans. I simply
moved all the parts over to the new radiator.

11. After checking the AC condenser for being clean and free of debris,
and cleaning the radiator hose connectors on the engine drop the radiator
back in with the wiggling and careful moving around.

12. I worked down inside first putting back on the two trans lines and clamps
then the lower radiator hose and clamp. Reconnect the 4 electrical connectors.

13. Attach upper 10mm fasteners from radiator to AC condenser, replace the two main upper mounts and 12mm bolts. Attach the two fan electrical connectors. Push the wire next to battery box back in the mount point.

14. Replace upper radiator hose and clamps. Here I replaced my upper hose and it came with new clamps. Very convenient. Reconnect overflow bottle.

15. Those two half way down 10mm with phillips head fasteners ?
Do those now, right/passenger side is easy. One on left was not as easy.

16. I filled with fresh 50/50 mix of coolant and filtered tap water before
putting lower inspection plate back on with 3 10mm fasteners and lowering the car.

17. I checked the oil, it was a little low, added some and then proceeded
to fire up the engine and let it warm up.

Overall I found the job to be easy, not as easy as some cars, but the trans
lines and lower radiator hose method of staying on made me appreciate the
engineering.

I did this job without opening or consulting the factory service manual or
going online to the forum. Again, pretty straight forward.

I used a 10mm and 12mm socket, phillips and flat blade screwdriver.
Standard slip-joint pliers for hose clamps. Clean drain pan.

I do not think I spent more than 3 hours on this at the most.
You could probably do it in 1 or 2.

Hope these instructions help someone along the way.

Sorry for no pictures, did not have time.
 
1 - 1 of 1 Posts
Top