As a basic maintenance check, I would inspect and clean the major ground points in the engine compartment:

Battery terminals, ground tray bolts (remove battery, lift plastic battery tray to expose the bolts), the ground tray strap bolt, the engine ground strap (wire) connections, clean rings/bolts/contact areas to bright / replace bolts as needed, use dielectric grease on all bolts and rings to prevent corrosion,

Do the same for the G200 ground ring, behind Driver's kick panel / fuse box on the US Sporty here,

Do the same for the G201 ground ring, behind Passengers kick panel,

Do the same for the G400 ground ring, Driver's side rear, at the tail light assembly, remove plastic cover to expose, look for the ground ring on the metal frame by the backup lamp holder,

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If no joy / change after cleaning major ground points, would consider the Driver's door Master Power window switch suspect: the contacts inside oxidize w/ age, or poor grounding.

Hope this helps,
GottaCruise

 

There is a known electrical issue with our Sportages: some electrical wires insulation is damaged by the firewall at the point where the wires pass through the firewall. I have your same issue with the power windows, and it is some years that I have planned to check that point: of course I have not done that yet, but I will do that with the occasion of having to replace the heater core.

 

Thanks iv check and cleaned all of the points and checked all of the wires going through the firewall with no luck pulled all the panels from the doors and checked each motor with a battery and all of them worked just like they were new so I cleaned all the contacts in the connectors checked all the wiring and all was good so I pulled a master switch that I know is good out of a totaled sportage I bought for parts and checked with no different results took the original switch apart and cleaned all the boards wiring and contacts and sanded little metal switches to a shine greased it all up and put it back in which did get one back window to go up an inch and quit and haven't worked since. Thanks for the help yall are giving me.

 

Whenever possible you should check also all the involved electrical lines resistance.

 

Moreover, if you find any splice along the electrical line you should open it and solder it.

 

This I found on the Electrical manual:

 

Thanks I haven't checked the resistance but there are no splices any where in the car because my grandmother took good care of it.

 

Ok I just looked at those diagrams and I remember pulling my rear wiper fuse during the winter because my wiper blade broke and I didn't want it scratching the glass I'll get a new wiper and put the fuse back in and see if that works

 

It might be as simple as the Rear Wiper fuse.. Hoping it's that easy a repair for you.

Ovidiu - nice post w/ the diagnostic tree & switch test chart.


Edit: If no joy after replacing the fuse, post back: I will be replacing the Driver's door on my Sportage here next week, I can run a tone test (ground trace) on the wiring to see if there are any additional ground points, besides G200/201/400 .

 

...Ovidiu - nice post w/ the diagnostic tree & switch test chart...

Thank you. I tryed to put it all the document here but has 9Mb and exceeding limit.

 

Ok i finally got time to do it and replaced the rear wiper fuse and it kind of worked one window still wont go down, im going to pull the engine soon to rebuild it and gut the interior again to super clean it so ill check every inch of the harness to see if i can find anything.