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2013 Sorento SX AWD prem pkg
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Discussion Starter #1
After having my 2006 Sportage EX professionally detailed in and out the airbag light stays on. Have read most of the applicable posts on this forum. Have disconnected battery to reset without results, no surprise there. Checked the passenger seat sensor. The pass airbag on/off light works correctly. Extended all the belt tensioners and checked for codes using an OBDII scanner, no codes.
Any ideas short of going to a dealer? Other posts have indicated they had codes indicating their airbag problem. Why is the light on without codes? Is the airbag on another system?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I've had the Kia six years and 60,000 miles. This is the first issue I have ever had with it.
 

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Sounds like they removed the seats (to clean under them) and then turned on the ignition... That WILL set the Air Bag light... It can't be reset with a standard OBDII scanner...

If the seats and their connectors are removed ALWAYS disconnect the battery first and wait 1/2 hr for all voltage to drain from the SRS module.

I believe it can be reset unlike the SRS module that has to be sent out for internal reseting of the EEPROM. If it turns out to be the SRS module check ebay for places that reset yours.

Check with the service department at your KIA Dealership on the cost to reset the light....then contact the people that "detailed" your Sporty..They should pay for it.

You might play "dumb" and they "might" reset it under the 10yr 100k mile if it's covered..
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Dave. Am I not getting codes because the light is set and not on due to a fault? The light may be reset with a special Kia OBD type scanner? If not the Eprom will need to be reprogrammed, correct? On startup the light turns on then off for a few seconds then on to stay. Is this consistent with it being set?
Thanks again. Is this how the Sportage is getting even for giving it a bath on the inside?
 

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There are NO codes for the air bag and SRS system..only the light. It is "set" to on.

The car's diagnostics turns the light on so you (and the state inspector) can see the light bulb is OK...then it turn it off....then it checks to see if any faults are recorded...when it "see" there is one it turns the light back on.
So yes it is consistent with the error being "set".

Extinguishing the lamp may be as simple as the dealer sending a command to turn it off (or) it may require the SRS module to be removed and sent out for the eeprom to be reset.
I believe it's the first and the dealer should be able to reset it.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Other posts indicate they had error codes on airbag lights. Got it
Excellent forum. I'll be a frequent visitor. Over the years I've replaced ALL of the light bulbs. Appears to be a common problem. Center armrest broke, again, others had same issue and similar correction (none).
Great resource, Thank You
 

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I've gone with Xenon HIDs (5000k) on both Spectras (06&07). The interior lights (map lights/dome lights/door lights) are now all white LEDs. Also the backup and license plate with LEDs.. I also added white light strips under both sides of the dash.
My 06 Spectra SX has an dark gray interior and the standard incandescent bulbs just didn't get it. During the winter months when it's gloomy I hated getting into the car. Now it's bright and cheerful even with the dark colors.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I went to the Kia dealer. He tried to reset the airbag light to no avail. It has a fault code indicating right seat belt tensioner. Said it may take a half to an hour labor to troubleshoot and repair plus parts. Also said it could be a wire or the tensioner itself with a cost of almost $200. Good news is they didn't charge me to attempt the reset of get the codes.
sigh.....
 

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First a CAUTION!!!
DO NOT USE A METER (or powered light probe) to read for the 2 ohm resistance in the devices... The voltage supplied by these test devices could fire the charges in the airbags and/or seatbelt retractors and hurt you with their explosive charges.

How it works...
The seat belt tensioner is in the post behind the plastic trim (covering). Just follow where the seatbelt enters the post straight down to the floor. It is held in place with a female (recessed) TORX bolt. There should be one connector with a yellow plug. This plug is connected to a pyrotechnic device (explosive charge).

This charge blows during an accident (fired by the SRS module) pulling back the belt about 4" and locking it in that position. The seatbelt will release but will no longer retract into the post and the whole seat belt assembly would need to be replaced.

The SRS module looks at the resistance across the two wires at the yellow connector. The resistance value is about 2 ohms "if" the charge has not been fired (no accident) and infinity (very high resistance) if the charge has been fired (accident).. If it "sees" infinity during it's self diagnosis it writes into it's eeprom memory that an accident has taken place and it then turns on the air bag light..

If the connections feeding to this device have been disconnected (under the seats, under the dash, at the post, or at the SRS module (located in the center console in front of the gear select arm) and power (+12v) is provided to the SRS module (ignition turned on)...it reads the open circuit (unplugged connection ...etc) as an accident "event" writes to the eeprom and also sets the air bag light on.

That's why it's so important to remove a battery terminal and let the system discharge before touching any of the seat connectors. seatbelt connectors, air bags or their connectors , or any SRS connectors.

The "damage" is all ready done...so ... You can still remove the battery connection and look for loose/bad connections on the yellow connectors. Look for any water damage inside them (corrosion on the pins).

If by chance the seatbelt charge was fired the belt will be loose and will not retract back.. If not you may have only a bad connection to the yellow connector.

If you find a loose or corroded connection you can repair them...If not then I would replace the seatbelt assembly with a good one from a "junked" car...Either way you will need to either need to remove the SRS Module and send it to a reprogrammer or pay for a new one (BIG $$$$) after the fault is corrected...
It sounds like your pocket book will also be cleaned...

If you had a "professional" do the cleaning they may have insurance for accidental damage done to your car while the worked on it.
Dave
 

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Kia Sportage 2007 2.0L, A/T Trans.
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hello excellent the explanation and the information, excellent forum for us kia users.
 

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delamota...
Welcome to kia-forums!
You will find a treasure chest of information in the past Sportage threads..
so don't bypass them to read only the current stuff..
It's better than talking to a KIA service tech as "We" (posters/moderators/administrators) have lived through the "problems" you may come across..
Sit back, take off your shoes (or sandals), Relax and enjoy "our" forums!

We (including you) share our pride and joy cars, our ideas, our lives, our countries here. We are PG "rated" so your kids won't have to say "Daddy...what does #[email protected]& mean!!"
Hope you enjoy your stay...
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the detailed info Dave. Working in electrical engineering I can understand the circuit and will stay away from the airbag charges. As a gear head from the seventies it seems software hacking tools would be more useful than a wrench these days. Question, what happens when these great cars get old.....? Corrosion, dissimilar metal reactions, road salt splashes somehow under the seat etc. etc. Here in the northeast cars spend a good part of the year put away wet, salty and frozen.
Great forum and extremely valuable resource.
 

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You said "Question, what happens when these great cars get old.....? "
Exactly the problems you said could happen...
They have built them this way because the government wants better fuel efficiency, lower emissions, better safety in crashes and they all require smart electronics with LOTS of sensors and LOTs of plastic... The cars in the lower end of the sales dollar have to meet the same standards as the high buck ones and still come in under a set amount...
I have to deal with the same problems as you living in Northeastern Ohio..I've had corrosion problems with Fords, Chryslers,and KIAs. It seams you really can't keep the salt and the water out. Heat and cold cycles draw moisture into these joints and connectors. We have seen a lot of cooling system corrosion problems because of dissimilar metals (cast iron blocks/aluminum heads/copper head gaskets) right here on the is forum...if you don't keep good coolant with additives to block electrical reactions between the metals you will have failures.. Usually the radiator, heater core, and of course blown head gaskets.
Todays cars mechanics can go 300k miles but lack of proper maintenance, cut corners, bodies designed to "crush" (weakened to fail) in accidents cuts into the longevity of these cars.. Even "if" we could get them to say 25yrs (and be a "classic") the plastics used instead of metal will have decomposed back to their primary chemicals... seeping oils, cracking and drying out, loosing their original strengths. Ten year old cars with plastic insulation on their wires are now showing their age. The wiring harnesses are breaking down and shorting out requiring major rewiring work. Dash boards self destructing ...the bumper "reinforcements" (what was once called the actual bumper) are plastic and so are the mounting brackets and covers...Valve covers are plastic and they are exposed to heat, oils (acting as solvents) and the environment.. You should see what an under the hood or passenger compartment fire leaves...Very little left...
As far as "hacking" the engine/body/transmission operating systems.. The manufacturers have the source code pretty well encrypted in the eeproms to keep people like me OUT of them... Could you imagine what kind of problems some poorly educated hacker could cause with today's cars "flying by wire'... if he COULD get into the software?? .. The steering/acceleration/air bags/anti-lock brakes/auto transmission/engine control/emergency braking...all controlled by programs...Programs are written by humans and humans are fallible...
What a "wonderful" future we have to look forward to...Biodegradable cars...buggy software our lives depend on... Toyota has something like 12 airbags in their tiny Scions to try to protect you from a crash with a 16 wheeler ... Scary!

I doubt if there will be any 2000's cars living into the future...
Only 30s/40s/50s/60s cars because they lacked all the above...

My crystal ball is going hazy (must be the polycarbonate composition of the globe yellowing)...You know ..glass can break and hurt you... :)
Dave
 

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Kia Sportage 2007 2.0L, A/T Trans.
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sorry for late reply and thanks for the hospitality Dave. I have been reading many of the post here since before registering in the forum and I congratulate them all. In my country Kia vehicles were not well recognized as a good car, people prefer traditional brands like Honda and Toyota, but times have changed and in my country the Hyundai Kia brand has gained much ground. I have this SUV and I'm really happy with its performance and comfort, the only problem I've had is with the infamous P0133 code slow response in the primary O2 sensor, this is what led me to this forum and let me fix the problem (cracked exhaust manifold). Thanks again for the hospitality and greetings to all lovers of this forum Kia.

PD. Sorry for my typo, Spanish is my primary language. :)
 

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First a CAUTION!!!
DO NOT USE A METER (or powered light probe) to read for the 2 ohm resistance in the devices... The voltage supplied by these test devices could fire the charges in the airbags and/or seatbelt retractors and hurt you with their explosive charges.

How it works...
The seat belt tensioner is in the post behind the plastic trim (covering). Just follow where the seatbelt enters the post straight down to the floor. It is held in place with a female (recessed) TORX bolt. There should be one connector with a yellow plug. This plug is connected to a pyrotechnic device (explosive charge).

This charge blows during an accident (fired by the SRS module) pulling back the belt about 4" and locking it in that position. The seatbelt will release but will no longer retract into the post and the whole seat belt assembly would need to be replaced.

The SRS module looks at the resistance across the two wires at the yellow connector. The resistance value is about 2 ohms "if" the charge has not been fired (no accident) and infinity (very high resistance) if the charge has been fired (accident).. If it "sees" infinity during it's self diagnosis it writes into it's eeprom memory that an accident has taken place and it then turns on the air bag light..

If the connections feeding to this device have been disconnected (under the seats, under the dash, at the post, or at the SRS module (located in the center console in front of the gear select arm) and power (+12v) is provided to the SRS module (ignition turned on)...it reads the open circuit (unplugged connection ...etc) as an accident "event" writes to the eeprom and also sets the air bag light on.

That's why it's so important to remove a battery terminal and let the system discharge before touching any of the seat connectors. seatbelt connectors, air bags or their connectors , or any SRS connectors.

The "damage" is all ready done...so ... You can still remove the battery connection and look for loose/bad connections on the yellow connectors. Look for any water damage inside them (corrosion on the pins).

If by chance the seatbelt charge was fired the belt will be loose and will not retract back.. If not you may have only a bad connection to the yellow connector.

If you find a loose or corroded connection you can repair them...If not then I would replace the seatbelt assembly with a good one from a "junked" car...Either way you will need to either need to remove the SRS Module and send it to a reprogrammer or pay for a new one (BIG $$$$) after the fault is corrected...
It sounds like your pocket book will also be cleaned...

If you had a "professional" do the cleaning they may have insurance for accidental damage done to your car while the worked on it.
Dave
Dave I believe you may have answered the question i have been looking for. I have a 2006 kia sedona the brake light switch went out, so because of where it was located I had to remove the driver set in order to get under the steering wheel Column where it was located. I did take the battery terminals off before I did the work but after I installed the switch I wanted to see if the lights was working so I hooked the battery back up before plugging the airbag senior back to the sit. So did this wright the code in the SRS module as (accident). Do I have to get the module re-programmed or just get the code reset or is it both. Ps the driver sit belt works find still retracts.
 

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My question is do you have an "air bag" light on now or are you just worried about the SRS being written to? My 06 and 07 Spectras have airbags in the door side edges of the lower seat cushions..
Is the air bag on constantly or after turning the ignition on is it on then off and THEN flashing a code like 4 flashes...wait...7 flashes...wait...then repeats? This may be only telling you you have a problem and the SRS module may not have been written to...
I'll post the "standardized" air bag flash codes later...

If the yellow connectors under either seat were still dis-connected and the battery was reconnected at this time you probably did have the EEPROM written with a seat belt air bag "fired" code... as the integrity checks are made by looking for the low resistance at the airbags... with the connector dis-connected the SRS module doesn't see the resistance and may/can write the error...

I have read that the circuitry will still "try" to fire the air bags anyway even "if" the error was written but there is no written documentation saying so and you have the nasty yellow light in your face while driving at night...

Check to be sure you have reconnected ALL wiring harnesses (with the battery disconnected) under the dash NOW before reconnecting the battery as you may have disturbed the wiring going to the driver's air bag in the steering wheel...

I know that they are trying to keep you "safe" by doing the semi-permanent EEPROM writes (requires SRS being sent off to be reset) but they should have a BRIGHT YELLOW warning tag attached to ALL connections on the SRS harnesses making you aware that this WILL cause an error to be written..
Keep us posted on what you find/repair...
Dave.
 

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More information on the airbag system is slowly becoming available...

Here are the "Standardized" air bag codes...

"Understanding Airbag Diagnostic Codes

Most modern cars are capable of doing an airbag diagnostic to determine whether all of the circuits and sensors of the airbag system are functioning properly. If any problems are detected, the SRS module gives the driver a signal in the form of the airbag indicator light, flashing it several times. To read the codes, count the number of times the light flashes before staying out. All airbag codes are double digit numbers, expressed in a series of flashes and pauses. For example, one flash, a pause, followed by four flashes is code 14.
Airbag Code
Description
12 Low battery voltage
13 Airbag circuit grounded out or shorted
14 Short or ground on primary crash circuit
21 Improper mounting of airbag
22 Safing sensor output shorted to battery voltage
23 Safing sensor return circuit or input feed open
24 Output feed open
32 to 35 All pertain to problems with driver and passenger side airbags
41-45 All pertain to problems with right and left primary crash sensors
These are the most commonly seen airbag codes. Airbag diagnostic codes go up to 53, and it is important that consumers repairing their own airbags, including the SRS module, be familiar with all of the codes."

Correct the "problem", disconnect the battery for 10~30 minutes, and reconnect the battery..."if" the light goes out you have solved the problem..

If the air bag light is still on after correcting either the wiring or replacing a part you will probably need to send off the SRS module to have the EEPROM rewritten...
Dave
 

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The SRS module looks at the resistance across the two wires at the yellow connector. The resistance value is about 2 ohms "if" the charge has not been fired (no accident) and infinity (very high resistance) if the charge has been fired (accident).. If it "sees" infinity during it's self diagnosis it writes into it's eeprom memory that an accident has taken place and it then turns on the air bag light..
......
The "damage" is all ready done...so ... You can still remove the battery connection and look for loose/bad connections on the yellow connectors. Look for any water damage inside them (corrosion on the pins).
IMO this dont sound right. Why would computer mark an air bag as 'accident happened' if the computer never issued fire signal ?

When computer starts up it cheksk the resistance of all airbags devices. If it sees something high/low then it sets codes for that that, these high/low resistance codes can be cleared. The factory manual describes diag steps and that you can clear these codes with SRS reader.

For example, there are codes for high resistance, e.g, B1701 driver buckle pretensioner resistance high for such cases. They can be reset with SRS diag tool.

On my kia 2005 I had B1701 cleared w/o any reprograming.
 

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I have a 2006 Spec Sx and the passenger belt pyrotechnics sent an "open" condition to the SRS module. This set a error condition in the module. I replaced the seat belt tensioner. I could have spent big $$ having the module "diagnosed", possibly reprogrammed or replaced (usually their choice) at the dealer OR I could have chosen to have the SRS module reset elsewhere.. for under $60... I chose the later...

The suggestions I gave were the least costly ones.

Unless you have the info to build an interface, and reprogram it with software that you wrote personally you only have the above two choices "if" anything gets written to the SRS module as in the OP's case (and mine).. He reconnected all the connectors AFTER cleaning the car and the light remained on.

Yes I have seen the case where just reconnecting the sensors have turned off the light but USUALLY only in later model KIA/Hyundais.. Many newer cars will allow reseting SRS and remote key fobs by a sequence known to few...

Of course "if" you work for a KIA/Hyundai dealership you might get to use the hardware/software for FREE...for the rest of us we pay...
Dave
 
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