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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi guys

I recently purchased a 2004 1.1 kia picanto LX, 32,000 Miles on the clock. It has a small problem that i cant seem to get to the bottom off.

It starts first time, idle very smooth and revs nice and smooth... BUT when you try to drive off, it jus dies, crawls away and wont rev at all.


I switched over the map sensor with another car and it made no difference

I changed plugs, air filter and oil change

I pulled fuel pump and checked the in tank filter, this was also ok

I also checked the fault codes on computer, there were none.

If anyone could shed some light on this for me or help me, it would be great, what do i look at next? :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
ok, update, i have stripped the car down to check the crankshaft timing pulley, i has a lot of wear on the inside and has around a quarter of an inch of movement on the crank shaft itself.

This in turn is putting the timing off by around 10 degrees causing the car to run badly and stuggle to accelerate.

I have contacted my local kia dealership (Downeys, Newtownards, Co Down) and presented the worn pulley to them. They have no interest because there are no outstanding recalls for my vehicle....there clearly is!!!! The crankshaft pulley is a manufacturers defect and should be replaced! They have no interest in contributing to this.

Also called Kia UK and got the same response, basically telling me it had to be diagnosed by the dealership with no guarantee they would pay for the fix!

Awful service from my dealership and Kia UK, i suspect most others are the same.

just received a call back from Charles Hurst Kia, Belfast, they were really helpful and are going to pass this on Kia UK and get back to me! fingers crossed!

One the plus side the pulley only cost me £20 and the new bolt was £3, luckily i have no damage to the crank itself and can carry out the repair at home but good luck to anyone that ever has this problem and approaches KIA for help who cant do the repair themselves.

Well done KIA, and their 7 year warrenty....
 

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Kia Cee'd SW, Hyundai i20, Nissan 240SX
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Our car is exactly the same mileage as yours! And the same problem but slightly different symptoms.

Right now KIA are going to pay for the parts but not the labour costs - according to the chap I spoke to today there's a hell of a lot of bits to be replaced!

I'm pretty sure that the car can be fixed cheaply enough as you are doing, I'd consider that myself too but it's already at the dealers in bits waiting to be repaired - I was hoping for a free repair.

Any chance you can take some photos of the repair to show others how to solve this problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
i have some photos that i took whilst building the car back up, i will certainly post them up although it is not a simple fix! Your symptoms could have been a misfire aswell, i noticed as the wear was minimal on mine it had only achieved a loss of power but as the pulley wears more and more the car will become undriveable.

If Kia are going to replace the parts thats a good start, they will replace the bottom timing pulley, the crank shaft (hopefully) the large end bolt and id like to think a new timing belt and tensioner. Apparently a new crank is £900, the pulley is £20, bolt is £3, timing belt and tensioner is around £50 as a guide to what they will pay. The labour wont be cheap though!

id urge anyone with a sluggish car with missfire to stop driving immediately, the damage pulley will eventually give, and destroy the head and bend valves, break timing belt, it would be messy!

i will give a quick run though whats involved...

1. Remove drivers side wheel and plastic cover at the bottom of engine (4 bolts 10mm)

2. loosen air con/power steering belt, tensioner is on top of air con pump in mine

3. loosen alt/waterpump belt, tensioner can be accessed from the engine bay easy enough.

4. remove waterpump pulley (4 10mm bolts)

5. remove the large centre bolt on the bottom pulley (one faulty part)

6. remove the 4 bolts around the large centre bolt (10mm) and remove the two aux belt pulleys

7. remove the top and bottom timing belt covers, think theres around 8 10mm bolts that hold it on, the dipstick needs to come out of the sump to get at one, its held on with one bolt at the top on the head and simply pulls out.

8. Now you should be looking at the defective bottom pulley with the timing belt still in place, there is a brass toothed disk over it for the crank postion sensor that just pulls straight off although be gentle as this cant be out of shape! (all the pulleys etc and this brass plate ate held in the right place buy a locating pin in the defective pulley so can only go on one way)

9. Check the timing of the top cam pulley is lined up, there are timing marks on the pulley and on the head (should be at the 3 oclock position. loosen the timing belt tensioner just above the defective pulley and pull off (not the position of the spring that holds tension in it.

10.Remove the crank position sensor at the bottom beside the defective pulley (2 x 10mm bolts) you can now remove the spring for the tensioner.

11. The timing belt should now come off very easy

12. Have a feel of the bottom pulley, if it is defective it will move on the crankshaft without moving the shaft itself, this is the wear on the pulley, it should be loose enough to pull off in your hand, i will post pictures after of mine and the wear.

13. I thought my crank had escaped any wear as it looked fine and checked out with the micrometer.

14. ordered a new crank pulley(£20) and new 17mm centre bolt (£3)

15. Now the fun part, i slid the new pulley onto the crank, you guessed it, still slight movement side to side. :( My crank must have worn slightly aswell.
If i was to put it back together, it would maybe cure it for 1000 miles but it would wear the new pulley just the same.

16. I thought and thought about what to do, i tried to put a shim in but to no avail. :confused: This is why kia then replace the whole crank aswell or 'short block' as they call it. That comes with a large bill!

17. I decided to put a small splatter of weld on the crank end, then filed it down to fill the gap at one side, slide the pulley on as far as it would go, and knocked it the rest of the way, my god its tight now alright! :) (this is a painstaking process as its very hard to get the file in the right place)

18. lined the new bottom pulley up with the timing mark (its at 1 oclock) theres a nick in the cog and a white mark. obviosly turn the engine by hand a few times to make sure timing is correct.

19. follow my instructions in reverse to build back up, and hey presto my little kia is back to narmal! woohoo! total time, id say took me around 4 hours, 1hr 30mins to strip, then a good hour getting the pulley on tight, and the rest building back up.

I hope this helps anyone who is thinking of doing the repair themselves if KIA refuse! Any questions just ask, and il try and get a few pictures up!


You can see the left picture below is the top pulley, the white mark at three oclock lines up with a mark on the head.

The centre picture is the defective pulley, notice the wear in the meant be two flat sides inside!

The right picture is the end of the crank where the pulley slides on and the flat sides mate together, the wear is not noticeable on this but it is enough to allow movement!

More picture later! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
hi there, i actually tried that last night before pulling the welder out, loctite will not solve the movement, esp not for any length of time, even minimal movement will wear the pulley again and its back to square one :( new crank or the above method is all i can think of for permanent repair
 

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hi boy racer

new member dartace

2006 picanto zap same problem got my local garage to have a go fitted new pully
cost me £150 quid lasted a week

i took car back to kia dealer on last day warranty mention the crankshaft problem total denial asked to sit in waiting room but sneeked my head around the corner to find my car unattended when the mechanic seen me closed the door more interested in ripping off motobility people griffin mill garages pontyprid bitch on the counter said next time i came back i would pay i just grinned and asked do i look that stupid.


any way you can weld pully to crankshaft
 

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I got my2005 picanto car in 2010 and had problems with it from day one. same problem as all of you. my macanic fixed the problem but 5 months later it came back so withe a worthless piece of metal that cost more than any of my cars just sitting around. I will never buy a kia car ever again. Tring to get leagel advice as the car was sold to me faulty from a none kia dealer
 

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i have some photos that i took whilst building the car back up, i will certainly post them up although it is not a simple fix! Your symptoms could have been a misfire aswell, i noticed as the wear was minimal on mine it had only achieved a loss of power but as the pulley wears more and more the car will become undriveable.

If Kia are going to replace the parts thats a good start, they will replace the bottom timing pulley, the crank shaft (hopefully) the large end bolt and id like to think a new timing belt and tensioner. Apparently a new crank is £900, the pulley is £20, bolt is £3, timing belt and tensioner is around £50 as a guide to what they will pay. The labour wont be cheap though!

id urge anyone with a sluggish car with missfire to stop driving immediately, the damage pulley will eventually give, and destroy the head and bend valves, break timing belt, it would be messy!

i will give a quick run though whats involved...

1. Remove drivers side wheel and plastic cover at the bottom of engine (4 bolts 10mm)

2. loosen air con/power steering belt, tensioner is on top of air con pump in mine

3. loosen alt/waterpump belt, tensioner can be accessed from the engine bay easy enough.

4. remove waterpump pulley (4 10mm bolts)

5. remove the large centre bolt on the bottom pulley (one faulty part)

6. remove the 4 bolts around the large centre bolt (10mm) and remove the two aux belt pulleys

7. remove the top and bottom timing belt covers, think theres around 8 10mm bolts that hold it on, the dipstick needs to come out of the sump to get at one, its held on with one bolt at the top on the head and simply pulls out.

8. Now you should be looking at the defective bottom pulley with the timing belt still in place, there is a brass toothed disk over it for the crank postion sensor that just pulls straight off although be gentle as this cant be out of shape! (all the pulleys etc and this brass plate ate held in the right place buy a locating pin in the defective pulley so can only go on one way)

9. Check the timing of the top cam pulley is lined up, there are timing marks on the pulley and on the head (should be at the 3 oclock position. loosen the timing belt tensioner just above the defective pulley and pull off (not the position of the spring that holds tension in it.

10.Remove the crank position sensor at the bottom beside the defective pulley (2 x 10mm bolts) you can now remove the spring for the tensioner.

11. The timing belt should now come off very easy

12. Have a feel of the bottom pulley, if it is defective it will move on the crankshaft without moving the shaft itself, this is the wear on the pulley, it should be loose enough to pull off in your hand, i will post pictures after of mine and the wear.

13. I thought my crank had escaped any wear as it looked fine and checked out with the micrometer.

14. ordered a new crank pulley(£20) and new 17mm centre bolt (£3)

15. Now the fun part, i slid the new pulley onto the crank, you guessed it, still slight movement side to side. :( My crank must have worn slightly aswell.
If i was to put it back together, it would maybe cure it for 1000 miles but it would wear the new pulley just the same.

16. I thought and thought about what to do, i tried to put a shim in but to no avail. :confused: This is why kia then replace the whole crank aswell or 'short block' as they call it. That comes with a large bill!

17. I decided to put a small splatter of weld on the crank end, then filed it down to fill the gap at one side, slide the pulley on as far as it would go, and knocked it the rest of the way, my god its tight now alright! :) (this is a painstaking process as its very hard to get the file in the right place)

18. lined the new bottom pulley up with the timing mark (its at 1 oclock) theres a nick in the cog and a white mark. obviosly turn the engine by hand a few times to make sure timing is correct.

19. follow my instructions in reverse to build back up, and hey presto my little kia is back to narmal! woohoo! total time, id say took me around 4 hours, 1hr 30mins to strip, then a good hour getting the pulley on tight, and the rest building back up.

I hope this helps anyone who is thinking of doing the repair themselves if KIA refuse! Any questions just ask, and il try and get a few pictures up!


You can see the left picture below is the top pulley, the white mark at three oclock lines up with a mark on the head.

The centre picture is the defective pulley, notice the wear in the meant be two flat sides inside!

The right picture is the end of the crank where the pulley slides on and the flat sides mate together, the wear is not noticeable on this but it is enough to allow movement!

More picture later! :)
What's the part number and where did you buy the parts from please?
 

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Parts numbers

Hi, I know this was ages ago but does anyone have a parts number for the crankshaft pulley bolt or where I can purchase one?

It is greatly appreciated.
 
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