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2011 Kia Soul, automatic, 108K miles
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Passenger side CV axle - Done!

While I was working on my alternator, I noticed the inner CV boot was torn open. I asked a friend about replacing the boot and he said don't. There is enough dirt and debris in the CV joint already that it will fail, even with a new boot. Better to just replace the whole CV axle. I did some online searching for more info and decided my friend was right.

So, I have the new axle. Imagine my disappointment when I found kiatechinfo.com is no longer free!

My question: Does anyone have info on the axle replacement procedure specific to the '03 Spectra? I've already seen countless videos for other cars. I'm looking for gotchas specific to the Spectra.
 

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1985 Subaru Loyale (wagon), 2000 Kia Sephia (sedan), and 1969 Mercury Comet (coupé)
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2,789 Posts
A Kind Suggestion

I bet that you'll underestimate this post, but very kindly let me tell you...

I've cleansed many, many axles that ran with torn boots, and regreased them, then placed new boots and those axles keeps working smooth.

The difference on how long those axles that ran with torn boots will last, depends on how many time they ran like that; and the easiest way to determine the damage they had, is pretty simple: if the Axles are noiseless and working flawlessly, then it worth to do the Cleansing & regreasing procedure, otherwise, if they're already noisy, is better idea to change them.

Why you can consider a Cleansing and regreasing as an option?

Because aftermarket axles usually are junk, or usually are never built with same quality than the original ones that came with the Car.

Kind Regards.
 

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Registered
2011 Kia Soul, automatic, 108K miles
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Done! Here's the hints I was looking for:

1. For the passenger side CV axle, don't bother draining the transmission fluid.
there is a short drive shaft that connects the CV axle to the transmission, so no leaking will occur.​

2. After getting the axle nut loose, just disconnect the steering knuckle from the shock tower to release the axle. Also remove the brake caliper and hang it from the spring to keep it out of the way and not strain the brake fluid hose.
Don't bother with the ball joint or the tie rod end. They can stay together.​

3. Separating the CV axle from the drive shaft proved almost impossible.
I ended up removing the intake manifold to get access from he top side, even then it took all the strength of my 25 year old son (6'4" 260lbs) to pry them apart using a 2 foot pry bar!​

4. re-assembly was easy, although it did take four hands to get the bolts back in the shock tower.

I still have to put back the intake manifold and bleed the brake caliper before its completely done.

I also removed the brake rotor for easier re-assembly.

I only removed the intake because I have done that before and it is a relatively easy procedure if you have the correct tools available.

These hints are from my own experience and YMMV.
 

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Done! Here's the hints I was looking for:

1. For the passenger side CV axle, don't bother draining the transmission fluid.
there is a short drive shaft that connects the CV axle to the transmission, so no leaking will occur.​


2. After getting the axle nut loose, just disconnect the steering knuckle from the shock tower to release the axle. Also remove the brake caliper and hang it from the spring to keep it out of the way and not strain the brake fluid hose.
Don't bother with the ball joint or the tie rod end. They can stay together.​

3. Separating the CV axle from the drive shaft proved almost impossible.
I ended up removing the intake manifold to get access from he top side, even then it took all the strength of my 25 year old son (6'4" 260lbs) to pry them apart using a 2 foot pry bar!​

4. re-assembly was easy, although it did take four hands to get the bolts back in the shock tower.

I still have to put back the intake manifold and bleed the brake caliper before its completely done.

I also removed the brake rotor for easier re-assembly.

I only removed the intake because I have done that before and it is a relatively easy procedure if you have the correct tools available.

These hints are from my own experience and YMMV.
I just replaced my passenger side CV axle and also had a difficult time separating the CV axle, but final got it. But I forgot to observe the original spacing between the two, so upon reassembly I am now very unsure as to whether or not I got it inserted sufficiently. How do I know that it's inserted far enough?? I don't want to keep driving this thing believing its not fully inserted and could eventually pop out on me.
 

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99 Kia Elan 1.8L, 17 Ford Edge Sport 2.7L V6, 15 Mustang 3.7L V6, 08 Harley Nightrain
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I just replaced my passenger side CV axle and also had a difficult time separating the CV axle, but final got it. But I forgot to observe the original spacing between the two, so upon reassembly I am now very unsure as to whether or not I got it inserted sufficiently. How do I know that it's inserted far enough?? I don't want to keep driving this thing believing its not fully inserted and could eventually pop out on me.
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2019 Sportage 2.7L V6 SX turbo AWD


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