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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi - have got error code P1508 - motor position sensor low on the digital print from garage but find code P1508 also is idle charge actuator signal high of coil #2 - anyone know what part I need and where to get it from. many thanks!
 

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You say "I need a part for my car" but then you don't provide the needed info for us to help you...
You have not filled out the "CP" section telling us about you, your car, your country. We don't know your engine (type and size ...IE diesel/gas 4/6 cyl, your transmission manual/automatic, mileage...
We just do not have enough information to even guess.
I can "see" you are near Leeds in England.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh dear - I've got a 16v. 1.8? Kia Shuma year 2000, petrol, manual. And I'm in Scotland. Sorry, am currently off work sick with Crohn's disease and the last thing i really need to be doing is trying to fix my car when you're lucky I know how to put petrol in it. Thanks for your input! Eva
 

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Look for a large black rubber hose (3~4" diameter) where it is connected to a large aluminum "tube" (throttle body) look in that area for a plug connected to that "tube".
The IAC (Idle air control) valve is in that general location. It can sometimes be heard (and located) as a buzz with the ignition on and the car not started.
The error P1508 says that there is a short between wires. It is probably close to the IAC near the plug... Plastic insulation will dry out, crack, and fall off on older cars allowing the wire to touch (short) each other.

Code description:
"P1508 Idle air control (lAC) valve closing coil - signal high Wiring short to positive, lAC valve, ECM"

You may not need a part but you may have to repair the wiring going to the IAC.
The IAC servo coils may also be bad requiring the replacement of the IAC.

One of my wife's good friends she works with has Crohn's and he's had to have numerous surgeries. A nasty medical problem. I hope it goes into remission.
Hope you can find someone (friend) that can do the "dirty" work...
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Dave, thanks for that - will suggest it to the garage, your help is much appreciated. Have had yet again to up my steroids today for my crohn's - the stress of my car issues is not helping!!!! Will let you know how i get on and thanks again for your help. Eva
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi - garage can't find any problem with the wiring so at a loss what to do now! Anyone any more thoughts more than welcome. Have also replaced the IAC - no difference. Tired of this game now :(
 

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Has he "cleared" the codes stored in the ECM? The ECM may still be in limp mode.
This will also allow the ECM to "set" the code again if the problem still exists or go into a normal mode.
Because the ECM is reporting such an "exact" code (P1508 says that there is a short between wires) and the wires go back to the ECM he could check the wiring at the ECM.

We had a post on a Sportage with ignition problems and it turned out to be water had gotten into the ECM's large plug causing corrosion and shorts between the plugs pins. This caused some strange codes to be reported and strange operation of the engine.

It could be a bad ECM also but they are pretty reliable and most often it's a waste of time and money to replace it....Especially at a KIA Dealers service dept.
If you have to go that way get the part and revision number off the old ECM and look on ebay or at local salvage yards for a good used one.

The ECM "IS" seeing a short between two connections on the IAC, OR at least reporting that code in error... It's pretty Black and White.
Dave
 

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Here is a diagram/schematic of the 2000 Sephia/Shuma Gas/Petrol IAC wiring.

The large dashed box is the ECM (or at least part of it)
IAC=idle air control
It's pretty much straight forward as far as wiring being shorted.
You never said what your original problem was so to your best ability please describe what problem you have/had.
Hope the info helps...
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi Dave - aw, you are a gem, you really are! The original problem was that the was fine - stopped for about an hour then when switched it on again just started revving up at 1500 on the clock - never heard anything like it - was actually quite scary! Will email this stuff to my work to get it printed off and will try to get someone to take it to the garage. Will keep you updated! You've given me hope!! Thanks, Eva
 

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Nah...
Just a citizen of this small ball we call Earth! We NEED each other to LOVE not HATE
each other in the name of GOD/BUDDHA/ALLA. I really hope you get this taken care of...

If you look at the IAC diagram you will see two "curlyques" ...they are the representation of two coils of wires. If you remember making an electromagnet at school you know that when you connected the "battery" the nail picked up other metal pieces. The IAC is basically two coils...one to pull the engine speed faster and one to pull it slower. So if you have problems with the idle speed this "problem" makes sense...pointing to the IAC not being able to "pull" the speed back down because one of the coils (or wiring) is not working correctly. The ECM acts like the "battery" above providing the current needed to pull the coil(s) and makes the decision which coil to activate. You have said that the IAC was replaced...so...that's not the problem...

What's left is the connectors (plugs) in the harness, the wires shorting together in the harness, or the ECM.

Because you have a "true" mechanical problem (high RPMs) and the ECM is reporting a problem in the same "area" I would tend to believe the ECM is OK and you have a wiring problem somewhere in the wiring harness between the IAC and the ECM. Pretty straight forward to a "retired" Electronic Tech.
Dave
ps I followed my linage back to "Lanarkshire" back to the 1890s where I lost connections. My last name seams to be of Irish descent... I'm a "Mc"
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi Dave. Well at last they found a broken wire..........thanks to you! Got the car back last night - used it this morning and after 10 miles or so the the engine management light has come back on. There is a split in the (taken from your previous post) "large black rubber hose (3~4" diameter) where it is connected to a large aluminum "tube" (throttle body)" which might not be helping either. It seems to be running at 1500 (sorry - said this previously but previously it should have said 3000) so not bad but not quite right. Now need to get garage to order this tube/pipe thing - don't know the proper name of it. Nearly there I think though! Have got another week off work but feeling better by the day and although can't walk far am at least able to get out in the car for a little while - beats 4 walls! Thanks again!!
 

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I'm glad for you in both ways... (feeling better-1st...and...getting the car back on the road-2nd). I'm glad also that you "hung in there" on both... A temporary "cure" could be "duck tape" to seal the split until both the funds and the part becomes available. It would get you back running.

4 walls has been the "norm" for me this last winter... I'm an electronic tech and the service/repair industry is dead here (and so are the jobs) because of the Chinese imports.. 90 day warranty (exchange) and after that time NO Parts or repairs...Throw away. We've been lucky enough to have my wife still working and a house that is 2 years from getting paid off. My 06 Spectra is fine but doesn't go very far with gas/petrol prices and watching the money. The weather here has been beautiful the past 2 months so I been getting yard work done.
Hope to see you back on the forum and take care...
Dave
 
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