I have a 99 Kia Sportage. It overheated, my wife says she pulled over and shut it off. It was running when she shut it down, however it was boiling over, very much smoke in her words. Now it cranks, but won't fire or start. Any ideas where to start? Please help.
Overheated now won't start
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99 sportage overheating
I have an 99 sportage, when you pull a long hill the temp goes a tick above half way. Most time it runs a tick below. The other day, wife says it went over half way point and headed to H quickly. By the time she pulled over and shut it off, smoke coming from under the hood. I have gone back to the car and put water in and tried to start it, no luck... Any ideas where to start on this mess?? Any and all help will be appreciated.
I have an 99 sportage, when you pull a long hill the temp goes a tick above half way. Most time it runs a tick below. The other day, wife says it went over half way point and headed to H quickly. By the time she pulled over and shut it off, smoke coming from under the hood. I have gone back to the car and put water in and tried to start it, no luck... Any ideas where to start on this mess?? Any and all help will be appreciated.
Find out why it overheated. Check water level, look for busted hoses. Check oil level and note the appearance of oil; any sign of water in the oil?
-If it cranks OK, test compression.
-Check timing belt.
-Overheating may have taken out crankshaft/camshaft position sensors.
-If it cranks OK, test compression.
-Check timing belt.
-Overheating may have taken out crankshaft/camshaft position sensors.
Yes, a blown head gasket will kill it.
Thankfully, only experience with this that I have had was with a 30 year old lawn mower. Was getting hard to start and finally seemed dead. Checked the cylinder head bolts and some were very loose. A quick clean-up and de-coke and she's ready for another 30 years. N.B. torque on the bolts is quite low, about 12 ft. lb.
Let's see if we can make this a thread on Briggs & Stratton 4-strokes!
Thankfully, only experience with this that I have had was with a 30 year old lawn mower. Was getting hard to start and finally seemed dead. Checked the cylinder head bolts and some were very loose. A quick clean-up and de-coke and she's ready for another 30 years. N.B. torque on the bolts is quite low, about 12 ft. lb.
Let's see if we can make this a thread on Briggs & Stratton 4-strokes!
You need to hope that the block isnt cracked. The head is an easy fix. I have been parting out a 1997 Sporty that I bought for the engine. Everyone has been calling wanting the engine (I said the engine wasnt available in the ad, apparently people cant read) because of cracked blocks from over heating. They seem to like cracking the length of the block on the driver side when they get hot, right below the exhaust. Mine did the same, hence the need for a new engine.
Great Lilkia, now i got something else to worry about. Is the crack pretty visible if there is a cracked block ? Also is there a website or place I can go to. To get a step by step instructions how to replace the head gasket ? Maybe on this forum or some where else.
A cracked head from overheating should be easily visible once you get the engine apart. You should check compression before dismantling.
Step-by-step for gasket replacement would be a long list. Do you have clean secure area to keep the parts in order? Torque wrench and other tools?
i am wondering how, in the first 5 replies we got to a cracked head, etc - he said there was water coming out of the drivers side - have you checked hoses, etc, your car might be losing water.....once water is depleted it overheats, and then the ecu probably shuts it down.
you might just be sitting with a busted thermostat or a leaking hose ??? and that would solve the problem of heating.
you cannot diagnose the head cracking unless you have checked these ?? overheating is caused mainly by loss of water and water regulation?
am i missing something or are we jumping to conclusions too quickly?
you might just be sitting with a busted thermostat or a leaking hose ??? and that would solve the problem of heating.
you cannot diagnose the head cracking unless you have checked these ?? overheating is caused mainly by loss of water and water regulation?
am i missing something or are we jumping to conclusions too quickly?
Actually I said a cracked block as it seems to be fairly common in an overheat situation. Several people have called or emailed me in the last month inquiring about an engine. 6 had a cracked block from overheating all 6 were cracked on the drivers (left side) below and behind the exhaust manifold all 6 were 1999 or newer. Thats 7 vehicles in the Charlotte area. Now some may have been sitting for awhile so lets say within a six month period. That seems to be a common issue.
There is a metal to rubber waterline on the drivers side, thermostat is on the front more to the passenger side, could be a head gasket, could be the radiator hose on the bottom but I think that would be pretty easy to see.
Before you take anything apart you need to check the engine. If you have an OBDII reader check the codes and clear them. If you dont take the positive battery cable off and let it sit for a day or two. that should clear the trouble codes. Hopefully this will let it start. Fill the engine up with water crank it over and see if you can see the water coming out. If that doesnt work you need to do a pressure test if you dont have the tools, check with autozone they have a tool loan program. Get the tester, pump it up and you should find your leak. If you are still having issues use dish detergent mixed with water and brush it around the engine, you should see bubbles when doing the pressure test.
As a side note when mine did this it wouldnt start either, I just kept cranking and it finally fired over. Unfortuanately mine was a low compression situation and it was preventing it from starting. After it overheated I only had 60-80lbs per cylinder.
There is a metal to rubber waterline on the drivers side, thermostat is on the front more to the passenger side, could be a head gasket, could be the radiator hose on the bottom but I think that would be pretty easy to see.
Before you take anything apart you need to check the engine. If you have an OBDII reader check the codes and clear them. If you dont take the positive battery cable off and let it sit for a day or two. that should clear the trouble codes. Hopefully this will let it start. Fill the engine up with water crank it over and see if you can see the water coming out. If that doesnt work you need to do a pressure test if you dont have the tools, check with autozone they have a tool loan program. Get the tester, pump it up and you should find your leak. If you are still having issues use dish detergent mixed with water and brush it around the engine, you should see bubbles when doing the pressure test.
As a side note when mine did this it wouldnt start either, I just kept cranking and it finally fired over. Unfortuanately mine was a low compression situation and it was preventing it from starting. After it overheated I only had 60-80lbs per cylinder.
Thanks for the advice. I will certainly test it before I start pulling stuff off the engine.
I will keep you posted on what I find or don't find. this evening a mechanic friend is stopping by to look and listen @ it... Then we will decide where to go next.
I will keep you posted on what I find or don't find. this evening a mechanic friend is stopping by to look and listen @ it... Then we will decide where to go next.
I wonder if you car has gone into 'safe mode' to avoid doing anymore damage.
do the leakage test through the radiator - you dont have to start the car to check for leakage.
then - test that the thermostat is working - hot water test.
have you done this yet?
if you have done this and all fine - if its cranking, and not starting - I would then do a compression test which could suggest a blown head gasket.
that would be my next step.
any other guys got any ideas?
do the leakage test through the radiator - you dont have to start the car to check for leakage.
then - test that the thermostat is working - hot water test.
have you done this yet?
if you have done this and all fine - if its cranking, and not starting - I would then do a compression test which could suggest a blown head gasket.
that would be my next step.
any other guys got any ideas?
Ok, I got the head off the sportage. Took little longer than I thought. My friend checked it, it is warped. So off to have it fixed. What I need to know is should I get the head gasket from Kia or any parts place will do? Also where can I go to get all the specifics of tightening the head bolts and the torque. Also specifics of the valve lash?
96 4 DOOR 4WD SPORTAGE, 2014 Hyundai Elantra GT, 2015 Accent Hatchback Sport
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You should buy new head bolts because they are "torque to yield" bolts. You can contact COBRA259 to get the stock head bolts.
I've used "off brand" head gaskets with no issues. If you get a complete head gasket set, make sure you give the people doing your head work the valve seals so they don't have to chase them down and charge you for all the work of getting them.
Let us know how it works out.
UPYOURKIA
I've used "off brand" head gaskets with no issues. If you get a complete head gasket set, make sure you give the people doing your head work the valve seals so they don't have to chase them down and charge you for all the work of getting them.
Let us know how it works out.
UPYOURKIA
I pulled the head, had it ground. Valves and valve seats also. Put it all back together and it runs like a top. It took a heck of a lot longer than I wanted to, was a lot more work than I expected. But its behind me now. Blown head gasket and all is well.. oh replaced a couple of rusty freeze plugs... one had a hole in it... I think was the culbrit for all my troubles.
2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
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Good to see you got it going...
3 months is a long time without a car..
I'm curious..How much money do you have invested in the rebuilt head and misc parts?
Your mechanic friend must of taught you well...to get back together and running so soon after getting the head... Usually we see minor problems keeping the engine from starting so easily...
Dave
3 months is a long time without a car..
I'm curious..How much money do you have invested in the rebuilt head and misc parts?
Your mechanic friend must of taught you well...to get back together and running so soon after getting the head... Usually we see minor problems keeping the engine from starting so easily...
Dave
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