Kia Forum banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey. first post on this forum. I am also a new member at another kia forum and just discovered this one. I am doing a very detailed install how to for this car so thought I would share the thread here in hopes of maybe helping out a few more people. This is not a fancy car show type custom install. its more of a how to too greatly improve sound quality and keep a factory look and function.

This will be a copy and paste from the other forum. I am currently still updating the thread. the install is complete but it takes time to upload everything and explain so have not finished the how to just yet. I will update here as well. this forum has a lot more category's so if this is in the wrong place mods feel free to move

Today Marks the beginning of my install. this build will consist of the following item(s) and it will be build around the factory head unit. I know this sounds odd to go through all this and keep the factory unit but i like the factory look and find that a very nice system can be built with just about any head unit with the right equipment.

polk MM6501 components in the front
POLK MM651 coax rear fill
pioneer GM 8406 4x100 RMS FD class amp for highs and mids
audio control LCQ-1 line driver with 13 band EQ
Rockford fosgate P300 12" sub
Rockford fosgate 300rms amp combo
two runs of 4 quage,
fresh 14 awg wire to all speakers
lots and lots of sound deadener.

As I have said in a previous thread, I am going to be starting an audio upgrade install this weekend. During the install I will be posting very detailed step by step pictures of everything that I do in hopes of providing a sort of "how to" for others that may not be so willing to tear these cars down. I know there is kiatechinfo.com and a few other places but in my search I had a hard time finding real world pictures which I find much more helpful. I plan to photo very wire run, location and how I did it. It will not be the end all be all for how to install a system it's simply just my personal methods and experiences. As I said in the
other thread, if you want to see something particular feel free to ask if I'm not already past that part. Tonight we will start with the dash and radio removal.

radio main


I found the best place to remove this trim piece is at the top. pay special attention to not scratch the surface. I am using metal if you don't feel you can be carful enough you may want to use something plastic


When you start to pry there are 9 clips holding it on. work your way around until they all come free. They are quite stonge so don't be to afraid to give it a good pull. Just take your time. If you feel its bending to much to not coming free try from the other side.


This is with the trim piece fully removed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Next you will move to this side panel



Take note of this small pry slot built into the panel


Just like before pry your way around until it come free.


Panel removed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Next you will take out the first screws that will need to be removed prior to taking down the bottom panel below the steering column. There are 5 screws to remove and I have pointed out their locations here




After the screws are out there are also a few pressure clips. I found it best to place your hand near the middle all the way in the back and pull strait out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
You will find plugs on the pack for various buttons including the push to start. You do not have to remove all these plugs. You can simply let them hang there if you wish. I prefer a clean working space and will be running many wires so I chose to unclip the plugs to so the panel would be out of the way



Now its time to remove the left cluster trim pad. There are three screws holding it on and a couple clips. Remove the screws and gently pry it away from the dash. I found that this one comes off a bit easier then the first

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Half way home folks. We now turn our attention to the cluster shroud. there are four screws holding it in. once you remove the screws there is a small "leather" cover that drapes over the steering column. This flat attaches to the column with a strip of retention clips. start on one side and pry this up till the cluster shroud is free. the flap can also be removed from the shroud side of things but this side is easier to work with. this piece also does not have to be fully removed from the car but once again I find it cleaner to work this way.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
here are the snaps that hold down the flap I was talking about.



Time to move back to the center of the car and remove the screws I point out below from around the ac panel

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #9


the panel also has a few clips so pry it out and should come free without much hassle. remove the plugs and tube from the back and set it aside.


I can see the light at the end of the tunnel now. remove the following screws from around the radio trim. Once again more clips

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
The radio slides right out. pull the harnesses from the back and put it aside



here is a pic with the dash fully stripped and one with all the parts we removed laid outside of the car

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #12

I hope that this will help someone in the future. I have done this with every build I have ever done and I find it makes for a nice detailed log for others to use as a reference point in one of their builds. Besides, It's always fun to watch someone else tear apart their car and not yours. haha.

Now that everything is stripped I can start running wires through the dash. tomorrow I will be doing that along with removing most of the interior of the car for wire runs. tune back in tomorrow night and I will have plenty more pics as I go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Sorry again for the delay for those waiting on pics. I have uploaded resized and named everything and now I just have to post and caption them all. There are more then 100 for bare with me. some my be over kill but everyone looks at things differently so I try to cover what the average person my want to see.

I will start where I left off and show tweeter removal.
front corner seems to be the best pry spot there are a few snaps holding it down so just work your way around




Once you get the cover off you will find two screws holding the speaker in place. The window is in the way for even a stubby screw driver so I find that one of these tools works best


Once the speaker is free just lift it out and unplug it. There is a lot of space in this spot. Much more room depth related then anyone will ever need. I have pics of that to coming shortly
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
After I removed the tweeter I turned my attention to the dash and running speaker wires from the factory harness. I did not want to use the factory speaker wires so I had to run everything new.

When you look at the back of the main radio wire harness you will find your speaker wires. here you will see them sperated out so that you can get a good look at the colors and pairs.


Some people might not find this next part to be a bad idea and would prefer to solder the wires but I did not want to go this route and find these connection to be just fine. More importantly they are reversible and easy to work with. I think they make for a very secure connection.
female end on factory harness



Male ends on new speaker wires that will run to the audio control LCQ-1 line driver/EQ



Connections made and final result. I LOVE shrink tubing. I find it makes for a very clean finished product while adding a nice layer of protection.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #15


After I made all my connection you can just simply tuck the wires behind the radio and they will drop right down into the foot well on either passenger or drivers side. there is a ton of room back there so you can chose any side you want. I used the passenger side. More to come shortly. The kids are driving me nuts to go out so time to grab some grub. Be back later tonight with lots more
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
ok so I took the tweeters out but really did not need to. I mainly did it for the pics because I am going to be locating my tweeters in the doors. for now I will just leave the stock one in place but they wont be connected to anything.

Time to strip the doors which is super easy.
first remove the little triangular trim piece in the top front corner of the door. it just pulls strait off. the clip here are just slip on so does not take much force at all


Now there are only two screws to remove. The first is under s tiny flap in the upper door release handle area. there is a small pry spot on the flat that can be popped open with a small flat head to reveal the Philips head screw


The second is in the lower door arm rest under a similar flap.


Other then the above two screws the rest of the door panel is only held on by clips.
I found it best to start in the front lower corner of the door. Panels lip over hangs just a tiny bit here and give a nice pull spot without having to use something the pry.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
under the bottom of the door you will find two additional pry locations. work your way around the panel and it pops right off. the clips are strong but not to bad. try to use even pleasure to avoid breaking any of them. the good news is if you do break of (or three like I did) autozone carries them in stock as they are a rather universal panel clip. a small package of 10 is only 3 bucks. point is try not to break them but if you do its not a big deal. you cant see them until the door is off so it's hard to judge.

In this pic I'm trying to point to the under door pry spot. sorry hard to get a nice pic


Once the clips are free the panel pops right off.



At the point you have a choice. The door release pull wires and a few harnesses are now keeping the panel from being fully removed. You do NOT have to remove these in order to change the speakers. you can simply let the door hang and there is plenty of room to do what you wish.


If you are like me and like things out of the way so you can work in a clean space here is the next step. its not hard so I recommend just pulling it fully off.
on the back of the door release you will find three larger silver screws and a few tiny ones. you will need to remove all of these from this area. this will release the seat memory buttons are well ad the handle from the door panel. I did not get pics of every screw because it is self explanatory when your looking at it. does not matter which one you remove because they are all coming out. I am just pointing to the area I'm talking about. this is the back of the door panel.


There are also several plugs going to various parts of the door, all of these are basic pressure clip harnesses. Just press and release.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Once that's done remove the panel and the door will be clean. In this pic you will see some speaker wire I ran but just ignore that for now. Some things I went back and took a pic of after work had already been done.


Once the panel is off you should now have a car that resembles something you might find up on blocks on the side of the road on the wrong side of town.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
The next job was to figure out how to get the new speaker wires from the amp to the inside of the door. Whenever I do an install the first place I want to use is always the factory door boot. This will always be the best choice for a clean factory look install. unfortunately this is not always an easy choice. The Kia boot proved to be no different. on the car side of the boot Optima uses as plug style boot not just a simple pass through. This means that if you wan to use it you must tap into the harness. I was not willing to do this as I don't like adding cuts in a wire unless I must so it was time to find plan B while maintaining the clean look of plan A.

After examining my options you will find a very nice location slightly below the factory door boot. There is a small rubber grommet a hole in the side. remove the grommet and you will be greeted with your new access point.


You found out how you are getting in the car with your wire but how do you get to the other said of this hole. Unfortunately this is located behind your parking break, hood release, and a bounty of other large wire bundles. It seems this is a central location of many of the cars wires. Time to dive in.


First need to remove the kick panel in the foot well. This comes off by prying out one outer clip shown here. This is located near the floor up front


after that the kick panel pulls off. you have to wiggle its around to get free of the hood release lever. I tried to pull my lever off to make this easier but it did not want to come off. it is only held on by a four prong central clip but for some reason it did not want to give up that lever. you my have an easier time with yours. no worries though because the panel comes off without much effort even if you don't remove the handle.

Once its off you will find this.


This large wire center is held in the side panel bu three clips. one on top and on each side. I found it best to remove all the plugs from the block because they are thick wire bundles which makes pulling the block out difficult. they all just plug right in so its easy to remove them. no need to label since they each have a different shape plug. as long as you passed your shapes test in the 1st grade you should have no trouble putting them back. for those of you that did not pass this test please step away from the vehicle and return the keys to your mother. FYI She is gonna be quite upset!!

Once you get the block free it looks like this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
ok so this spot get very tight so I was not able to get pics but once you are in there you will find that the other side of the hole you uncovered prior is located right above this spot. When you feed a wire through that hole from the outside with one hand and with the other reach up inside the large hole that the wire block was located your fingers will meet. Pull the wire through and you have completed the hard part of the drivers side door.

when the wire is through you will now think. how do I get wire block back in with this wire in the way. thankfully there is a rather large whole in the bottom left of the wire block that also leads you right along side of all the other wire bundles. feed the wire through this hole and replace the wire block and all the plugs.


Guick side note. I chose to put in a new grommet to feed the wires through. looks cleaner and also protects the wires. if you don't have one or cant get one you can just drill the center out of the factory grommet. personal choice really.




Now you have a wire going from outside the car to the inside but you now need to get it into the door. You don't have to run the wire into the door but it will look silly dragging on the ground and my guess is it will sound terrible. (sorry for the stupid jokes, I like to goof around a lot, keeps me young)

As I said prior, right above the hole you just fed your wire through is the factory boot. Pull the boot from the door side for easy access and all you need to do is take a razorblade and cut a small slit in the boot as close to the wall as you can. Put the slit on the under side of the boot so there is not a hole on top that might catch water. Feed the wire into boot by working it through. There is more then enough room so it goes in quite smoothly. (that's what she said... oh yes, I went there).


Wire through the door on the door side
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top