Kia Forum banner

Oil

5K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  wjcheng 
#1 ·
Sedona 02 2.9 crdi Auto

I had my oil and filter changed yesterday and have just noticed
Shell VA 5W40 has been used instead of 10W40 will this do the engine any harm?

According to the garage it's what Shell recomend, the engine has done under 35,000 miles.
 
#3 ·
I thought that too wide a range could actually do more harm than good. Of course, I read that several years ago so maybe advancements in technology have fixed the problem. (Heck, maybe it's never been true!)
 
#4 ·
seacam said:
Sedona 02 2.9 crdi Auto

I had my oil and filter changed yesterday and have just noticed Shell VA 5W40 has been used instead of 10W40 will this do the engine any harm?

According to the garage it's what Shell recomend, the engine has done under 35,000 miles.
If you understand the meaning of 10W40 and 5W40, you will feel much better.

The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as well as a single-grade SAE "10" oil can be pumped. "5W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W". The letter "W" stands for Winter. So, at current summer time, there is no difference, but it will do better in cold winter time, but then, by that time, you may have repaced engine oil again already.

So, what I did is to synchronize the engine oil replacement in Spring and Fall. In Spring, going to be hot, I use 10W40, but in Fall going to be cold, I use 5W30.

My Kia Sedona 2002 EX is a great van, needed to replace engine oil every 7,500 miles and oil filter 15,000 miles as manual suggested.

I have a feeling your auto service just gave you whatever oil in stock or on sale, but as you can see, it makes no difference to you.
 
#5 ·
Hello Wjcheng,

Thank you , I no longer own a Sedona but the advice is appreciated

I pop back to this forum every so often or when I'm contacted.

It was my first diesel so I was on a learning curve and so worried about details like grade of oil.

Hopefully if and when I feel things have improved with the Sedona and Kia Customer Services, I shall purchase another one.

I know they did in the past, my wish is Kia would re-introduce a petrol version of the Sedona in to the UK, replacing the troublesome engine with a reliable one, I would buy one like a shot and convert to LPG.
 
#6 ·
seacam said:
Hello Wjcheng,

Thank you , I no longer own a Sedona but the advice is appreciated

I pop back to this forum every so often or when I'm contacted.

It was my first diesel so I was on a learning curve and so worried about details like grade of oil.

Hopefully if and when I feel things have improved with the Sedona and Kia Customer Services, I shall purchase another one.

I know they did in the past, my wish is Kia would re-introduce a petrol version of the Sedona in to the UK, replacing the troublesome engine with a reliable one, I would buy one like a shot and convert to LPG.
Amen to that Seacam,

I think I feel the same way just with the terrible petrol engine in the original Carnival/Sedona downunder was such a debacle that it is going to take a while to move back to them.

Interesting article today in the Newspaper, stating how KIA sales have gone down.....Just seems to me if you shoot your customers in the foot is it any wonder customers don't come back....:mad:
 
#7 · (Edited)
cpapashley said:
Amen to that Seacam,

I think I feel the same way just with the terrible petrol engine in the original Carnival/Sedona downunder was such a debacle that it is going to take a while to move back to them.

Interesting article today in the Newspaper, stating how KIA sales have gone down.....Just seems to me if you shoot your customers in the foot is it any wonder customers don't come back....:mad:
Kia's Board of Directors decided to provide 10 year 100,000 miles warranty in 1998; thereafter, Kia sufferred with lots of repairing cost, but the manufacturing were able to catch those frequently happened problems and correct them.

In 2002, when I was looking to buy a new van, I search thru 14 available van in the US, and JD Power ranked Kia Sedona 2002 and Honda Odyssey number 1, so I started shopping for these two models.

Somehow, Honda Odyssey had a policy not to have too many vans available at dealer and need to order (in computer, it is called "page fault", the main memory does not have the program page to run when need to and need to go to disk to fetch over, the performace will drop an order of magniture). Japnese cars had this "just in time" inventory, and that's why I tried to avoid since my last Nissan Van of 1994. Why? too many "page faults". e.g. I got my left side mirror hit at NYC Chinatown that year, then went to Nissan Dealer, no part, come next time, and the 2nd time I went, sorry, ordered wrong side, come again next week. So, I decided not to go Nissan Dealer any more. "Just in Time inventory" causes all these problems; they may save car dealers, but cost customers a lot. However, the parts is NOT cheap. e.g. my auto insurance of Kia Sedona 2002 EX is much lower than my Nissan Quest 1994, and I have found out both Nissan and Mitsubishi parts are much more expensive, and therefore auto insurance.

However, Kia Sedona 2002 EX had many ready to drive home at dealer, so I just bought a Kia, and in 10 minutes. I was even able to pick a color WHITE, at no extra cost, which is normally not true for other brands. Why "white"? According to Austrilia research, color white is the safest color of any car, the darker the more dangerous, given the car accident data for past 20 years. And this also translate to your higher auto insurance implicitly. Kia auto insurance is low because fewer accidents, and when involved, less likely to have injury nor deadly injury.

I think I made an educated decision, my Kia Sedona 2002 EX has been wonderful for 70,000 miles, besides I paid $10,000 less for this van than Honda Odyssey 2002. Even if I trade in now, the gap between two Vans would be smaller than $10,000; that is to say, mine with less depreciation, not to mention my $10,000 CD has been generating interest to cover my maintenance cost.

So, if I would buy a used Kia, I believe Kia on 2002 or newer should be very reliable like my Kia Sedona 2002 EX. That is to say I would keep my Kia for many years to come as I did with my Toyota Corolla 1990 and Nissan Quest 1994.

As to the sales, I just checked Fobes and saw Kia in fact had sales up in July 2007

I did not use Kia Customer Service much, in fact, I only called twice for the same instance, and I would give the lady 100 points or an A+. I called in and roadside service showed up in 20 minutes; I did not have my Kia series number, but the nice lady on the other end found it for me. I did not know the address where I was but just saw a starbuck and cross street, and the lady found the address for roadside servcie for me.

I am not quite sure other place, but we are at New Jersey of USA, so, at least, Kia Customer Service in this area is fine.
 
#8 · (Edited)
seacam said:
Hello Wjcheng,

Thank you , I no longer own a Sedona but the advice is appreciated

I pop back to this forum every so often or when I'm contacted.

It was my first diesel so I was on a learning curve and so worried about details like grade of oil.

Hopefully if and when I feel things have improved with the Sedona and Kia Customer Services, I shall purchase another one.

I know they did in the past, my wish is Kia would re-introduce a petrol version of the Sedona in to the UK, replacing the troublesome engine with a reliable one, I would buy one like a shot and convert to LPG.
Dear Seacam,

You are very welcome.

One extra thing to keep in mind that many car dealers or garage would advise you to replace oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months, and every time replace BOTH engine oil and oil filter.

I want to say, cars after 1990 or even 1985 are much better than this "good old says" advise that passed blindly.

For example, I bought my Toyota Corolla 1990 Wagon new that year, and it has been all these years, it is still running great, and I always replaced engine oil every 5,000 miles and oil filter 10,000 miles.

I even bought all the oil filters at once when I bought the car, and still not consume all the filters yet. It is very easy to replace engine oil and filters, only the first time, need tool to loosen the oil filter. Thereafter, since you only tighten oil filter with HAND, it would be very easy to be loosen next time. (if you ever drive to service, they will overtighten the oil filter BLINDLY that make you hard to do it yourself next time :huh:

Since you really do not need to change oil filter every time you change oil, you will find it very comfortable to just change oil yourself. I have worked out a very simple process to do this:

1. No need to jack up the car, just loosen the screw and let go all the dirty oils.

2. scew back the screw with hand, and tight up a little bid with a wrench. and pour 4 quarts of new oil.

2a. Every other time or even 3 times when change oil, before pour in new oil, you want to unscrew the oil filter, and replace with a new one.

3. pour the dirty oil back into the 4 quart container for township disposal.

I was scared at the beginning that if I only replace oil but NOT oil filter, my engine oil will be "dirty" right away. So, I always replace BOTH till one time after it was serviced by garage (remember they gave you a check engine light ON at 30,000 so that you would be panic and bring your car to deal for expensive service?), after I drained out oil but could NOT loosen my oil filter; I was very panic but could not do anything but just replace the oil, NOT oil filter. Then, I check the oil every day for two weeks after I drove home. You know what? The oil was as clean as it should be. Then I check oil every week for a month, and convinced myself; it was just a rumor.

I am an enviromentalist, so if I can use just one oil filter, I would refuse to use two or three. I believe it would be easier to conserve the environment by NOT abusing the resource than "recycle".
 
#9 ·
Oil engine Light on!

Hi everybody! have an 2.9 diesel Kia Carnival (Sedona)
I have a question about oil..... Saturday I check the the oil level and see that need a Qt of oil. I put the oil and check the oil level again and said it is right. On tuesday the engine make a noise and the stop. when stared it againg the oil light still on after it stared and run some feets ahead and then stop again. I check the oil level again and see that it was overfilled, I drain the extra oil but the light still on, looks like the oil pump goes bad but I´m not shure. If I start the car it start ok. I bring the car home in a "plataform trailer" to avoid engine damage.
I need some advise about how to be shure if the oil pump is bad or what other thing could be wrong?

:confused:

Thanks,

Regards,

Pablo
 
#10 ·
The other day I saw a van parked on road side with engine with smoke. So, I just went over to help thought he can use my brand new portable charger, but the driver told me he called his brother about 100 miles away to come help him.

I told him, that his engine need to add oil immediately because many people who did not know car end up burn the engine by not aware oil leaking, and he did add 2 quarts, but he still could not start. I told him to wait for 5 minutes. Then, he was able to start again.

From this case, you learn even if the engine oil is one quart short, the engine should be still runing fine, but when it reach about two quarts short, then engine may overheat and burn, but that last minute, if stop the car, and add oils, can still save.

In fact, when I did with my Nissan Quest 94 van, the engine oil has been leaking, so every couple weeks, I seemed to need to add a quart, but I normally wait till the "low oil" light on, and after I added a quart, the dip stick shows it is just above E and far from Full.

In general, this is NOT a good practice because as soon as the "low oil" light on, need to add oil, can continue running on highway for too long.

But, in any case, it is not good to add to Full mark on dip stick. Why? as you see, when it below E, it still running, but risk engine overheat, but can add more any time. But when you overfill, it would be hard to get extra oil out.
 
#11 ·
pablopueblo said:
Hi everybody! have an 2.9 diesel Kia Carnival (Sedona)
I have a question about oil..... Saturday I check the the oil level and see that need a Qt of oil. I put the oil and check the oil level again and said it is right. On tuesday the engine make a noise and the stop. when stared it againg the oil light still on after it stared and run some feets ahead and then stop again. I check the oil level again and see that it was overfilled, I drain the extra oil but the light still on, looks like the oil pump goes bad but I´m not shure. If I start the car it start ok. I bring the car home in a "plataform trailer" to avoid engine damage.
I need some advise about how to be shure if the oil pump is bad or what other thing could be wrong?

:confused:

Thanks,

Regards,

Pablo
Your case reminds me when I was at Virginia hotel parking deck, somehow I checked the oil, it was very low, so I add half quart; I often have oil just above E level and far from Full.

You know, after I came home, I surprised to find out, it is close to Full level!!! Do you know why? I figured out that the ground is NOT flat.

For example, when your car going uphill and downhill your gas meter show different level.

I was glad I did not add a quart or make it close to Full at Virginia, or I may have been in trouble on the way home.

So, from then on, I always measure the oil level at the same place, that is home garage.
 
#12 ·
Since you added a quart of oil NOT because you saw "low oil" light on, but just "visually" saw it could be low, I feel you may overfill your oil at the first place.

That is to say, if you have NOT done that, your van should have been working fine. But since you have done it, if you have not change oil and oil filter for a while, maybe you can just bring your van to do a quick oil change and oil filter replacement, then I guess it should be back normal.

Remember, the oil is to lubricate your engine, and also cool down the engine, so the only situation I know that will damage engine is when you do NOT have enough oil, normally due to oil leak. Otherwise, you got enough oil, I do not see how your engine could be damaged?

When you have oil leak (does not sound like), you should be able to see oil at the bottom where you park your car (NOT water, that is from A/C, which is normal).

Another type of oil leaking is for very old car, when the engine oil leak to get burned, but then you will see the "black smoke" from the tail.

For oil pump, fuel pump ... problem, normally the "fuse" may have been burned; that is due to the "shorted" control circuit, and if that's the case, either replace it or "clean up" the circuit which may have dirts.

Just like many portable computers these days, after a few years, may end up die due to "overheat", and that also because the "dust accumulation" and heat could not effectively escape.

So, I fixed the computer by place it on the rack and putting small fan to blow the computer, and it will be back normal right away. Or, the professional would just open it and use small vacume cleaners to clean all the dust on the circuit board, and done. So, that part is similar to fuel pump, oil pump, or many other auto control circuitry.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top