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I just took my 2019 Sorento To the dealer for its 6 month first oil change with 3300 miles on the SUV. I asked about which oil they would use and they said a blend. However , a tech, told me to ask for full synthetic when the car hit 75,000. Makes me think I will be asking for full synthetic oil when it goes in for it 12 month or 7500 mile maintenance. There isn’t much difference in price and might as well get the best which I think is the full synthetic.
 

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2019 KIA Sorento SX - 3.3L GDi V6 - AWD
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I've also seen those videos before...

Yes, I agree that Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is definitely one of the best full synthetic oils out there (I've been using it in my mom's car for the last few years - I use AMSOIL Signature Series in my own vehicles).

However, just because it edges out the competition in the Noack Volatility test in PF's tests doesn't automatically mean that it's better then other brands for use in GDi engines...

Volatility of motor oil is only one of several factors that contribute to intake valve deposits, and, according to some recent scientific studies that have been done to determine the different contributing factors, volatility might not even be the main contributor to those deposits.

Other factors that determine whether or not an oil is more suitable for use in GDi engines include but are not limited to: 1) the base oil viscosity (smaller molecules evaporate more readily than larger ones); 2) the quality of the base oil and additives used in the blend; 3) the amount and type of VII used; 4) its high temperature resistance; 5) its Sulfated Ash content (SAPS); etc.

That's why when comparing different motor oils to determine their suitability for use in your GDi engine, it's important to look at the entire "package" as a whole (both the base oils used in the blend and the additive package) and not just rely on one specific test.

Richard
 

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2019 KIA Sorento SX - 3.3L GDi V6 - AWD
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I just took my 2019 Sorento To the dealer for its 6 month first oil change with 3300 miles on the SUV. I asked about which oil they would use and they said a blend. However , a tech, told me to ask for full synthetic when the car hit 75,000. Makes me think I will be asking for full synthetic oil when it goes in for it 12 month or 7500 mile maintenance. There isn’t much difference in price and might as well get the best which I think is the full synthetic.

You should have insisted on Full Synthetic oil for that first change... Be sure to ask for it on your next scheduled oil change. Don't wait 'til you have 75,000 miles on it.

Richard
 

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2019 KIA Sorento SX - 3.3L GDi V6 - AWD
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Incidentally (just to add to my previous post), the 2019 Sorento Owners Manual has this:
View attachment 113869
*3 : If the API SM engine oil is not available, you can use API SN or above.
*4 : If the ILSAC GF-4 engine oil is not available, you can use ILSAC GF-5 or above.


Did you catch that? They recommend API SM or ILSAC GF-4 as their main recommendation and tell you to use API SN/SN PLUS or ILSAC GF-5 as a substitute only if API SM / ILSAC GF-4 is not available. Does that make any sense to you?
Seems rather backwards, doesn't it?

Just to add to what I shared above...

I believe the reason that KIA Owners Manuals mentions and recommends API SM / ILSAC GF-4 instead of the latest API SN/ILSAC GF-5 specs (which have been out for quite a few years now - API SP / ILSAC GF-6 are due to come out in the next few months) has to do with their partnership/contract with TOTAL Lubrifiants (French).

The "recommended" motor oil for our Sorento is "TOTAL QUARTZ 9000 ENERGY HKS G-310" ("approved by Hyundai-KIA in owner’s manual since February 2010"). However, that particular motor oil only carries the API SM / ILSAC GF-4 rating [see PDF]. Quote: "This lubricant is used by Hyundai- KIA Motors Corporation for First Fill." [It would be kind of foolish for KIA to specify a motor oil spec in the owners manual that their "recommended" motor oil doesn't meet.]

Furthermore, the fact that TOTAL Lubrifiants is a European oil company (based in France) I believe is the primary reason that the European ACEA specs are "highlighted" in our Owners Manuals.

For more on this partnership, see the following quote:

TOTAL Lubrifiants and Kia Motors Corporation have been partners since 2011: under the terms of the agreement, Total Lubrifiants will be Kia Motors Corporation’s recommended partner for the sale of lubricants across all Kia’s after sales service networks in participating countries.

“...Total will be a key partner for us in our global aftermarket strategy to enhance Kia customer and dealer satisfaction”, commented Steven Yoon, Vice President Overseas Service Division at Kia Motors Corp.
  • ...Total will remain Kia Motors Corporation’s preferred aftermarket lubricants supplier for Kia vehicles. Total branded automotive lubricants will be exclusively recommended and available to customers across Kia’s service network of more than 5,500 dealers in around 180 countries...
  • The extension of the initial cooperation, which started in 2011, extends benefits to all Kia vehicles owners and Kia dealers. The Kia networks will receive access to high-performance Total Quartz engine oils, specifically developed to optimize Kia engines’ performance, reliability and offers potential fuel economy benefits..
[LINK]
 

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2019 Kia Sorento LX 3.3L GDI V6 - FWD (Sparkling Silver)
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Just to add to what I shared above...

I believe the reason that KIA Owners Manuals mentions and recommends API SM / ILSAC GF-4 instead of the latest API SN/ILSAC GF-5 specs (which have been out for quite a few years now - API SP / ILSAC GF-6 are due to come out in the next few months) has to do with their partnership/contract with TOTAL Lubrifiants (French).

The recommended motor oil for our Sorento is "TOTAL QUARTZ 9000 ENERGY HKS G-310" ("approved by Hyundai-KIA in owner’s manual since February 2010"). However, that particular motor oil only carries the API SM / ILSAC GF-4 rating [see PDF]. Quote: "This lubricant is used by Hyundai- KIA Motors Corporation for First Fill."

Furthermore, the fact that TOTAL Lubrifiants is a European oil company (based in France) I believe is the primary reason that the European ACEA specs are "highlighted" in our Owners Manuals.

For more on this partnership, see the following quote:


[LINK]
Agreed. Its a bit strange that kia dealers don't use it though, today I asked my dealer which oil they use for full synthetic he said Duramax.. searched online and found some unknown oil by that name which is quite strange. I mean, at least use castrol, not sure if this is just my dealer or most

I figured for 64.99 for full synthetic oil might as well let the dealer mess with it. It just passed 600 miles and i figure lets switch it to full synthetic. However decided to opt out on the duramax and just bought a filter for $11 from the dealer. Will do the oil change myself
 

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Durmax is a huge supplier to lube shops. The good news is if they used the right stuff, it's ILSAC GF-5 and SN Plus rated, so at least you're getting some decent generic protection.
 

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Durmax is a huge supplier to lube shops. The good news is if they used the right stuff, it's ILSAC GF-5 and SN Plus rated, so at least you're getting some decent generic protection.
I honestly never heard of it. I think i feel more comfortable doing it myself. I've changed oil on all my cars, i truly enjoy knowing it was done right. Im just a bit hesitant as to what oil i should be using on the sorento. Never dealt with a GDI before
 

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2019 KIA Sorento SX - 3.3L GDi V6 - AWD
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Oil companies will bid on contracts to become the supplier for a particular car manufacturers or dealership.

Car dealerships will usually just go with the lowest bid.

Up where I live Petro Canada motor oil is what my local dealership uses.

Richard
 

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2019 KIA Sorento SX - 3.3L GDi V6 - AWD
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...I'm just a bit hesitant as to what oil i should be using on the Sorento. Never dealt with a GDI before.

Any high quality full synthetic oil from one of the major brands will do just fine.

Richard
 

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Gotta keep things in perspective with oil imo. Unless you're just bored and want to perform some science experiments on your daily driver, the main reason to concern yourself with what type of oil you buy is to ultimately save money in the long term (i.e. avoid having to replace engine internals before your intended sale/trade-in/donation). And that term is really what should drive your choice. For some people, the term is only 3-5 years. In that case, I'd be changing the oil once a year with Supertech or Amazon. For others, the term is 10-15 years. In that case, yes.. Amsoil/Pennzoil Platinum/Valvoline Modern/etc. every 5-7k miles would make more sense. Even though you're spending more money on oil over 10-15 years, it's not even close to the amount of money you save by getting 5-10 extra years of service out of the same vehicle.

The YouTube comparison tests are nice, but every car (and every driver of that car) is different. So a lot of those tests don't mean anything. For example, if I lived in Miami, I couldn't care less if Pennzoil's cold pour test was 0.0001 seconds faster than Amsoil's. But where I live, that test matters a lot (because that's where most of the wear on my engine will come from.. freezing cold starts on winter mornings). So that's also something to think about.

For most of us, it's not about keeping the engine in top-notch shape for as long as possible.. it's about saving as much money as possible on maintenance/repairs over a planned period of time.
 

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2019 KIA Sorento SX - 3.3L GDi V6 - AWD
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Well said... ^^^^

For me, the fact that I live in Northern Ontario Canada, where temps often fall to -40'C/F in the winter; the fact that I go a long time between oil drains; the fact that I keep my vehicles a very long time (20+ years and counting for my Jeep); and of course, as far as my Sorento is concerned, the fact that it has a GDi engine in it... are all factors that I considered in my choice of a motor oil.

That's why I choose to run a high quality full synthetic oil in all my vehicles. Quality synthetics excel in all the areas mentioned above.

Richard
 

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I've spent so much money with Blackstone labs they send me Christmas cards! Over the years I've experimented with Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil 1, Quaker State and Super Tech. None did any better than the others and my conclusion was that if your using a synthetic oil, changing it at intervals of 5,000-7,500 miles, driving in somewhat normal conditions (normal to us humans, not to the car manufacturers where everything is severe), then you will get maximum life out of the engine with any of these oils.

Now, valve buildup is a completely different scenario, not one that I think Blackstone can test for in any way and could conceivably be affected by oil brand. I choose to use the CRC cleaner for the valves at right before every second oil change (~10,000 milesd) and hope that it's doing its job. If it evolves that a particular oil makes a significant difference in studies not funded by that oil company, then I will gladly switch and pay a higher price to avoid the potential of buildup.
 

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I've run three Sedonas for about 200,000 miles each on cheap oil with 5,000 mile changes. I've had absolutely no problems, all still running. I am really, really pleased with how well my Kias have held up.
 

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full synthetics in the $5 a qt range are usually NOT REAL synthetics but highly processed CRUDE oils in the group III classification legally synthetic since the ruling changes in 2011 i believe, even Scamsoil $$$ dont anymore say they are a PAO real synthetic but only touts the specs!! todays fake synthetics generally have some real synthetic PAO + or Ester oil in the blend + semi synthetic is the worse value as the amount of synthetic usually group III is NOT governed by law. that said changing any synthetic oil regularly is all thats needed unless your racing!
 

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Budweiser is CRAP these days as its once tang is gone!! even cheap Hamms is better IMO, i like different beers at different times the the bad effects on health limits my consumption!
 

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full synthetics in the $5 a qt range are usually NOT REAL synthetics but highly processed CRUDE oils in the group III classification legally synthetic since the ruling changes in 2011 i believe, even Scamsoil $$$ dont anymore say they are a PAO real synthetic but only touts the specs!! todays fake synthetics generally have some real synthetic PAO + or Ester oil in the blend + semi synthetic is the worse value as the amount of synthetic usually group III is NOT governed by law. that said changing any synthetic oil regularly is all thats needed unless your racing!

Please don't start this "Real" synthetic vs. "Fake" synthetic argument here. Thank You!

These kinds of debates belong in the BITOG Forums, in my opinion, not in a car forum. This subject has been beaten to death over the years and has gotten very old.

Oh and by the way, it began in 1999. It was based on a “non-binding” ruling by the National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Better Business Bureau (BBB), not on a ruling made in a court of law.

And for your information, modern synthetic oils are usually formulated using 2 or more base oils from different groups, including Groups IV & V in many cases. Some brands today, for instance, will use primarily Group III+ GTL (Gas-to-liquid) base stock because they are less expensive than Group IV PAOs (which are also derived from a gas incidentally) while having many of the same performance characteristics. The choice of which base oils, and what percentage of each, to use in a particular blend will depend on a number of different factors, including for instance the quality, viscosity, high or low temperature performance, service interval, etc. that they are aiming for with the finished blended product.

However, the only thing that truly matters in the end is the quality of the finished blended product. The various additives in the formulation play just as crucial of a role, and maybe even more so, than the base oils used in the blend in determining the quality of a motor oil.

Oh and incidentally, AMSOIL (without the "Sc" in front of it) still uses some Group IV and Group V base oils in some of their current formulations.

Richard
 

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just the FACTS MAM! real synthetic group IV + V oils ARE SUPERIOR, but are prolly not needed in most everyday drivers. the typical "synthetics" being group III mostly are good + unless your a Tribologist you will NEVER know the rest of the story. i use typical cost effective fake synthetics mostly BUT my HOT running air cooled bikes get the good stuff as does my 2001 TT 300 HP + tq with only a 4.25 qt capacity. specs are for NEW oils + as time + miles add up lesser fake synthetics fade away while the real stuff keeps on protecting longer + better!! your $$$ your choice.
 
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