Kia Forum banner

Oil mist at seal near engine top 2007 Sportage

6K views 39 replies 5 participants last post by  drleadbasedpaint 
#1 ·
In 2007 Sportage LX 4 Cylinder, I have a fine oil mist spraying out a seal near the top of the engine.

The sprayed oil is landing on the "hot" thing nearby and then dripping onto the exhaust pipe at the bottom. It causes a certain amount of smoke.

I think this is a gasket of some sort, but I don't know what it's called.

Please take a look at the two photos I've attached. I've pointed a red arrow to the place from which the oil sprays

What is this? Is replacing this a job an amateur can do? How much do you think a mechanic would charge?

Please let me know. As usual, I'll appreciate any feedback I receive.

Best regards.

113437



113438
 
See less See more
2
#2 ·
The arrow is pointing to the valve cover gasket, which can be replaced by a DIYer. However, the job does require careful attention to detail, and IMO a novice should use an (inch) torque wrench, in order to avoid guessing how much to torque the bolts. (but of course I'm not implying that torque wrenches should be used only by novices)

An independent shop would charge around $150-400, and a stealership would probably be $400-500. If you feel at all uneasy about your ability to get something like this accompliished, then I suggest finding a good, honest independent shop to get the job done right.
 
#7 ·
I don't have specs for your vehicle, but the final torque will be somewhere around 100 inch lbs. However, that torque value is only one of multiple important things. I don't know what you've seen in the videos, but here are some generally accepted 'good practices' to follow when installing this type of gasket.

There will be a specific bolt tightening sequence pattern for your vehicle, which is the tightening order on installation, and also for removing the bolts (in the reverse order) as well. Multiple passes (in sequence) are used to tighten the bolts - around 1/3 the final torque value for the first pass, 2/3 for the second, and final (spec) torque value for the final pass. Close is ok for the first 2 passes, and many folks do them by hand (however, use the torque wrench if you have any concern about your ability to come close by hand).

There will also likely be spark plug well gaskets included with the valve cover gasket, and those might have special considerations on your vehicle. And another, very important item is to find out if there are any 'transition' points on the head, which will require the use of a SMALL amount of RTV to bridge those gaps. Aside from those points (if any), do not use RTV with a solid gasket. Also be very careful when removing the old gasket material from both surfaces, in order to avoid gouging the metal, and do not pry the valve cover off, if it does not easily separate from the head (carefully work it loose using plastic tools). Clean up all bolts and bolt holes, before installing the new gasket.

I strongly recommend obtaining the valve cover gasket procedure for your specific vehicle, instead of using another set of specs. There may be something very important, specific to this vehicle which may (if not done) cause the job to ultimately fail. I'll also add that you will find other DIYers saying that some (or all) of what I wrote above is unnecessary, and that they have installed gaskets the fast and easy way. My answer to those folks is - your vehicle, your choice.
 
#8 ·
I appreciate your feedback as it has helped me better understand the process. Thank you.

I have not found "the valve cover gasket procedure for your specific vehicle." I'm probably not looking in the right places. I want to obtain this information before I start work.





I don't have specs for your vehicle, but the final torque will be somewhere around 100 inch lbs. However, that torque value is only one of multiple important things. I don't know what you've seen in the videos, but here are some generally accepted 'good practices' to follow when installing this type of gasket.

There will be a specific bolt tightening sequence pattern for your vehicle, which is the tightening order on installation, and also for removing the bolts (in the reverse order) as well. Multiple passes (in sequence) are used to tighten the bolts - around 1/3 the final torque value for the first pass, 2/3 for the second, and final (spec) torque value for the final pass. Close is ok for the first 2 passes, and many folks do them by hand (however, use the torque wrench if you have any concern about your ability to come close by hand).

There will also likely be spark plug well gaskets included with the valve cover gasket, and those might have special considerations on your vehicle. And another, very important item is to find out if there are any 'transition' points on the head, which will require the use of a SMALL amount of RTV to bridge those gaps. Aside from those points (if any), do not use RTV with a solid gasket. Also be very careful when removing the old gasket material from both surfaces, in order to avoid gouging the metal, and do not pry the valve cover off, if it does not easily separate from the head (carefully work it loose using plastic tools). Clean up all bolts and bolt holes, before installing the new gasket.

I strongly recommend obtaining the valve cover gasket procedure for your specific vehicle, instead of using another set of specs. There may be something very important, specific to this vehicle which may (if not done) cause the job to ultimately fail. I'll also add that you will find other DIYers saying that some (or all) of what I wrote above is unnecessary, and that they have installed gaskets the fast and easy way. My answer to those folks is - your vehicle, your choice.
 
#9 ·
Looks to me like your vehicle is equipped with the 2.0 liter motor, a very common and much used motor for your year. The valve cover gasket replacement is the SAME for all car model applications(Sportage, Spectra). For a beginner, go to your local car parts store and buy at least a Haynes repair manual for your car, it will cover the Sportage, Spectra line. I did this for our daughters Spectra, unfortunately it is 65 miles away from me now and in her trunk do I can't look up the spec's or steps for you.
 
  • Like
Reactions: drleadbasedpaint
#10 ·
I can't find any specific information for this engine. I've seen two videos showing Elantra engines that look almost identical to mine. However, neither of them used a torque wrench. So, I'm concerned about that.

Folks, I'm going to do this job today. I'm just concerned about the torque and torque sequence. I want to make sure the bolts are tight enough, but not too tight.
 
#11 ·
My spark plug wires aren't long enough to remove them from the top of the engine. So, I need to remove the other end of the wires, but they won't come off. How's a good way to do this without tearing them up?

Just in case these aren't spark plug wires, I've attached a photo. I have to remove the wires circled in red to get the wires out of the top.

113549
 
#14 ·
Most likely PCV. Looks gunked up. You may not be happy when you pull the cover.
Clean out as much gunk as you can with a putty knife and flat bladed screwdriver. Don't let the gunk fall into any oil drain back holes. Plug them (oil drain back holes) with paper towels. Once you get this stuff loose try to suck it out with a shop vac. Its going to be messy. Get some brake cleaner to spray the rocker cover. Everything else does not need to be hospital clean, but don't leave this built up gunk behind. You need a new PCV valve, and perhaps a new rubber tube. (I'm looking at the left hose nipple and the gunk at the end.)
 
#15 ·
Thank you for your reply.

The PCV Valve won't come out. It just spins around. It looks as though there's some sort of grommet embedded in the cover... the thing won't come out.

Red arrow points to brass piece that spins with PCV Valve


113552
 
#16 ·
The one with the arrow to it is the PCV valve(the one with residual foam covering it) the other is the port for equalizing air and goes to the air cleaner assembly.
PCV is a threaded fit and if is just spins is probably stripped plastic threads of the Valve cover Does not need to be removed to remove the valve cover itself.Once that is off, the PCV can be "flush" cleaned with with spray carb cleaner or spray "Brake Klean", the spring and valve inside the PCV is what you'll want to be concerned about cleaning out of hardened oil vapor residues.
You really should have spent the $18.00 at any auto parts store for the Haynes repair manual for your vehicle. My daughter is permanently residing 65 miles away, so there is no time soon to go get it from her.
 
#23 ·
Dear MIA KIA,

I get what you say about the Haynes manual. In the past, they seemed to lack sufficient detail to be useful. I was concerned especially the info I needed (torque and torque sequence) might not be included. I’m attempting this repair myself primarily to a financial limitation. Otherwise, I would get someone else to do it.

Also, I should point out that all has gone well up to the PCV Valve removal issue. There’s no way I could’ve predicted that the thread system was so cheesy that the part couldn’t be unscrewed. Except, of course, it is a Kia. But, it’s been a good car for 13+ years. I bought it in December of 2006.

Anyways, I’m perplexed about the PCV valve removal. I don’t think Haynes will help me here. Will you please?




The one with the arrow to it is the PCV valve(the one with residual foam covering it) the other is the port for equalizing air and goes to the air cleaner assembly.
PCV is a threaded fit and if is just spins is probably stripped plastic threads of the Valve cover Does not need to be removed to remove the valve cover itself.Once that is off, the PCV can be "flush" cleaned with with spray carb cleaner or spray "Brake Klean", the spring and valve inside the PCV is what you'll want to be concerned about cleaning out of hardened oil vapor residues.
You really should have spent the $18.00 at any auto parts store for the Haynes repair manual for your vehicle. My daughter is permanently residing 65 miles away, so there is no time soon to go get it from her.
 
#18 ·
Yes they can be removed for access to the "channeling" of the PCV system. Not sure how deep that brass insert goes thru the plastic Valve cover that the PCV valve screws into. Never had that apart on ours, so I can't be of much help as to what you'll find.
 
#20 ·
That depends entirely on how they come out and re secure when putting back together. Yes if they don't "snug up" well, they MAY "back out" and fall onto valve train components(not a good thing). There are automotive sealing products like Loctite thread lock that can be purchased from any auto parts store. People there can assist in which is needed for your task.
On the "plus side"...you've made good progress in getting the valve cover off, Hang in there!
 
#21 ·
Everyone here has been so wonderfu. Thank you.

I think the person who suggested I have a pressure problem was right. It would even explain my pressure sensor blowout from a year or so ago.

Anyways, the valve just spins and spins along with this brass ring that must be the threads. The valve unscrewed about a quarter inch before this problem started.

What’s the best solution? Is there anyway to get the PCV valve out?

Or must I replace the whole freaking valve cover?
 
#22 ·
I've not "run into" that situation with that problem to be able to tell you, and a lot depends on tools you have to work with to try and secure the brass fitting from spinning while gently turning the PCV valve to get it out...Patience is a virtue when trying to overcome a problem that is out of the normal remove and replace scenario.
 
  • Like
Reactions: drleadbasedpaint
#24 ·
Once again I don't know what tools you have on hand to do anything with. All I can suggest at this point is a pair of needle nose vice grip pliers(and may have to narrow down their jaw width to fit between the valve and bushing). And also to get a spray can of a good penetrating oil like PB brand Blaster and soak the threaded area and let it "soak" there for at least 20 minutes before trying to turn out the valve. I'm sorry, but this is an area where your ingenuity has to be put to use if you are going to continue in this DIY attempt.
LAST hope is take the cover to a reputable independent shop as see if they can help you out for a few bucks. Ultimate last doing would be to acquire a replacement Valve Cover.
 
#27 ·
UPDATE: (1) Removing the plate from inside the valve cover does not improve access to the PCV valve. As you can see in the pic, the PCV is in a molded housing that prevents access.

To me, it looks as though a very small gasket ran along the molded ridges of the underside. That gasket is mostly gone.

QUESTION: How important do you think that gasket is? Should I put gasket maker on it, or just leave it be?

113563
 
#33 ·
UPDATE: (1) Removing the plate from inside the valve cover does not improve access to the PCV valve. As you can see in the pic, the PCV is in a molded housing that prevents access.

To me, it looks as though a very small gasket ran along the molded ridges of the underside. That gasket is mostly gone.

QUESTION: How important do you think that gasket is? Should I put gasket maker on it, or just leave it be?

View attachment 113563
No gasket under the vent baffle to the underside of the rocker cover.
Just clean her up and tighten all the screws. NOT battleship tight!
Your doing an excellent job. And Mia Kia has been an outstanding asset helping walk you through this!
Don't forget to get the sludge out of the underside of the cover and cylinder head spring deck cavity.
You may want to switch to full synthetic oil with premium filter. It should help with the sludge build up your getting.
 
#28 ·
UPDATE: (2) I Got the PCV valve out (along with the threaded brass fitting). I'm going to use JD Weld to put it back in. Is that OK?

Prybars didn't work. I put a pipe on the end of my ratchet handle and rocked the valve back and forth until it came out.

113566
 
#30 ·
You've made great progress, and your thread WILL help others! You may want to consider JB Weld for PLASTICS rather than the regular JB weld...I've been there done that when trying to repair other items. Make sure it is WELL CURED(hardened) before putting things back together, and you ARE installing a NEW PCV Valve...right?
A good cleaning out of the "gunk" and reassembly should suffice, but if you want some form a gasket ot high tack is not going to hurt anything. Biggest thing to be sure of is that the screws are well tightened and not "sloppy" feeling.
Congrats...you're getting there! :)
 
#31 ·
Yes. I am operating under the assumption that the PCV valve is bad. I’m getting a new one right now.

I appreciate all your advice. Thank you.

The least I can do is provide photos and other info that will make this thread valuable to others who attempt this repair.
 
#38 ·
A successful ending and a great help from many members on this site!

This is exactly how these automotive forums should function.

I nominate this thread as 'good example of the year'.
 
#39 ·
Yes, this is a prime example of the member detailing his problem allowing the experienced auto enthusiasts to assist.

And here's an example of how its NOT done:

113652
 
Top