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2006 Kia Sedona
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Yep. I suppose I’ll figure it out. This is like removing the van from the O-Rimgs. Lol
 

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2002 Kia Sportage
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8 Posts
When you put it all back together be sure to NOT over torque the bolts, could cause seals and gaskets to split and leak.
 

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2008 KIA Sedona LX
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Ok, this is getting stupid. I have a 2006 Sedona, 3.8 liter Automatic. Roughly 280,000 miles. I bought this car me, so I know the history. About a month ago, it reallly started going through engine oil. About a quarter so every 100. Lies. All pooling up on the transmission. I changed the filter first, of course, then the oil pressure sending unit. Also changed the front valve cover gasket...since it was leaking onto the alternator. Still no joy. Still leaking just as bad, and oil I’m ediatelypooling up on the transmission. So today I decided to tackle the oil filter housing. I removed the upper and lower plenum, to pull it, and there is nothing that looks close o that. Ugh oil in there. Just a light dusting of oil and the normal filth. Before I dig any deeper, does anyone have other sugggestions

I've had the same problem. Hate polluting(dripping motor oil) and the expense of refilling oil supply. I found that what happens is that the O-ring seal between the oil filter housing and cap blows out a tiny bit in one spot allowing oil to flow out and down, where it pools on top of the transmission and then drips to the ground. Tried every which way to stop this, including all different torques on the cap and even replacing the cap in case of it being warped. Nothing has worked. Never had a problem before, but this started after the last oil change. Tried a different oil filter & O-ring; same problem. I believe it's an over-pressure problem. Read where a clogged PCV valve could be the culprit; changed it and still had the problem.
Rather than pay a shop $$$ to say they can't fix it, I'm considering tossing the O-ring and going with a high-temp silicone gasket maker. The stupid engineers should have cast/machined a groove in the housing mating surface to hold the O-ring in place.
Wish I could offer a solution. Meanwhile, I share your pain.
 

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2006 Kia Sedona
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
When you put it all back together be sure to NOT over torque the bolts, could cause seals and gaskets to split and leak.
Yah. I usually use a torque wrench for stuff deep down inside the engine. Don’t want to do this again!
 

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2006 Kia Sedona
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
I've had the same problem. Hate polluting(dripping motor oil) and the expense of refilling oil supply. I found that what happens is that the O-ring seal between the oil filter housing and cap blows out a tiny bit in one spot allowing oil to flow out and down, where it pools on top of the transmission and then drips to the ground. Tried every which way to stop this, including all different torques on the cap and even replacing the cap in case of it being warped. Nothing has worked. Never had a problem before, but this started after the last oil change. Tried a different oil filter & O-ring; same problem. I believe it's an over-pressure problem. Read where a clogged PCV valve could be the culprit; changed it and still had the problem.
Rather than pay a shop $$$ to say they can't fix it, I'm considering tossing the O-ring and going with a high-temp silicone gasket maker. The stupid engineers should have cast/machined a groove in the housing mating surface to hold the O-ring in place.
Wish I could offer a solution. Meanwhile, I share your pain.
Wow! Bummer. It sounds like you need a new oil filter housing. That’s the same job I’m doing now. If it would ever stop raining, I’d finish taking it down. I still have to remove the coolant crossover, then it should be smooth sailing.
 

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99 Kia Elan 1.8L, 17 Ford Edge Sport 2.7L V6, 15 Mustang 3.7L V6, 2013 BMW K1600 GTL
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99 Kia Elan 1.8L, 17 Ford Edge Sport 2.7L V6, 15 Mustang 3.7L V6, 2013 BMW K1600 GTL
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11,140 Posts
View attachment 114202

Do one of those wires lead to the pressure sensor?

If you pushed a Q-tip down through those openings for the wires it would tell you if there's oil below that aluminum cover, and if so you'd need to remove it.
It took a ton of patience, and a whole lot of disassembly, but here it is! View attachment 114265
Glad you found it, at least now that you know where it is you can repair it.

Looking at those intake ports, I'd recommend using a catch-can.
 

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2012 Kia Rondo
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13 Posts
Thanks for the picture. Glad you found it. What was the source of the leak? The oil pressure switch?
 

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2006 Kia Sedona
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Thanks for the picture. Glad you found it. What was the source of the leak? The oil pressure switch?
There’s no oil pressure switch down there. Both of the wires go to knock sensors. The leak was from the O-Ring that goes between the oil cooler and cylinder block. I sucked all of the oil out, and figure I’ll replace both knock sensors while I’m in there.
 

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2006 Kia Sedona
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Glad you found it, at least now that you know where it is you can repair it.

Looking at those intake ports, I'd recommend using a catch-can.
Thanks. I’ll be blocking them off before I do any more work. I’ve got the O-Rings. They came in the Conversion Gasket set, so I’m set. I’ll check the surfaces for true before going any further. I’d hate to go through all of this, then have it keep leaking! I’ve got all of the tools for it anyway, so I might as well.
 

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2006 Kia Sedona
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
I finally finished this repair. The weather, and other farmstead duties made this one long! The issue was the larger of the two o-rings. It separates the water from the oil, and of course keeps them both inside the engine, where it belongs. That o-ring doesn’t seem like the best plan for oil cooling...it could easily mask as a bad head gasket, and cause someone to replace head gaskets, spend money on unnecesary machine work, etc. unless they really knew what they were doing. Anyway, I took the opportunity to replace all of the hoses, and rubber pieces back there. I don’t want to do this twice! I had to order a ton of gaskets to do this job. Intake Gasket Set, Conversion Gasket Set, and both gaskets, and a water pump gasket kit, to age what I needed. Don’t forget to pull the water tube out and replace the O-rings on that as well. I also had to replace the rubber tubing for the meds of the air tube. I did not replace the check valve that’s inside one of those rubber ends...I didn’t even know it was there until the engine was back together. No trouble code or drivability issues, so I’ll just order it and keep it handy in case. Anyway, here’s to another 100,000 miles!
 
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