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Oil in Water...but wait head gasket only just done & head had crack test & skim

Guys,

Help needed.

Bought a 02 2.9CRDI Auto in September 09 @ 100k miles at 104k and 1 week out of warranty a heater hose blew & I found that the water system was contaminated with oil, took it to our local garage where they stripped & found that the head gasket had blown, amongst other things repair bill was £1700, now 4500 miles later same thing has happened, taken it back to garage ( who I trust as he's my uncle's best friend ) he has been onto KIA who reckon that it could be a cracked block now!!!

Strange thing is that being there is oil in the water there is no water in the oil.

Can anyone who has a problem or aware of someone who has had a problem like this give me some pointers, at moment car is not financially viable to get repaired again
 

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the water system operates at a lower pressure than the oil system hence oil moves to the water, also the oil operates at a much higher temperature so if any water gets into the oil it will boil off (you may find mayo in the oil filler where it is cooler and the vapour can condense)
if the engine is beyond economical repair how about trying one of those block sealers
i have used k seal in a 2.5 peugeot engine with good results and have seen it rescue a small citroen that was so far gone it could only be run with one of the heater plugs out to stop hydraulic lock
dont know if the sedona has one but a common failing on vag group engines is the oil/water cooler which allows oil into the water but the engine is fine otherwise
ttfn glenn
 

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I have the same problem, I have just done head gasket because exhaust gases were getting into water system, now 1500 miles later I have oil in water.
I am going to retighten head bolts in a vain attempt to fix.
Anyone think this might work?
 

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if oil has gotten into the water system it can be a pain to flush the system out as it will coat the entire system and then gradually reappear over time, ways of checking for headgasket failure are a compression test and/or having an mot station stick their gastester probe into the neck of the expansion tank (not into the water) and check to see if combustion gasses are present in the water system
the way i have cleaned oil out of the water system is to chuck in some washing up liquid then run for a few days then drain and repeat until the water comes out clear plus keep wiping any residue out of the water resevoir, then once clear, flush with clean water and then refill with antifreeze mixture, it is important to finish with this as wash up liquid has salt in it and will cause corrosion and antifreeze mix is also a corrosion inhibitor
ttfn glenn
 

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oil in the water can also be oil cooler seals which sit behind oil filter housing 2.5 hours to sort oil seals and gaskets can be found on line .quite a big job for a novice as full front of car has to come off
 

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On the KV6 2.5L petrol engine ( i know you have a different motor) oil gets in the coolant via a oil transfer passage through the cylinder head gasket that has a elastomer seal built in that fails.
As the oil pressure can be as high as 75psi it easily transfers oil to the nearby coolant passage if this specific area of the head gasket fails. They can continue to run all right because the cylinders are still sealed and no coolant is getting back in the sump but it will get worse and nearly drain your oil on a long trip, and the oil will eventually overflow the coolant receiver.

A useful tip when fitting new head gaskets is to use hylomar on the area of the gasket where the oil passage passes thru this reinforces the elastomer seal.
 

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Guys...
The op (original poster) was in 2010 and this thread is "dead"...
Dave
 
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