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Oil consumption fixed. But why?

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148K views 133 replies 38 participants last post by  harddog321  
#1 · (Edited)
2016 Kia Sorento LX 2.4l I4

Bought this car with 92k miles. Saw that it was burning/consuming oil. Researched, but after reading everywhere online, saw that this was about normal for a Kia, so I just kept adding. I think about 1 quart every 1000 miles, but I never measured accurately. I did notice the spark plugs were getting nasty.

At 109k, it burnt a valve. Replaced the burnt valve. Since 99% of online posts say the piston rings cause the oil consumption in these engines, I did a bottom end rebuild (piston rings/rod bearings/etc). When I got back on the road, I measured the oil consumption, again was burning 1 qt about every 600-700 miles (no change at all!)

At 118k, another burnt valve. At this point, I thought: oil can only get into the cylinder from piston rings, valve seals, or the pcv. I thought, maybe I have bad valve seals, even though I don't have smoke. Pulled the head and did a top end rebuild (all new valves, seals, etc).

Before driving it, I thought that I would install an oil catch can to monitor any oil there. Previously I had read about oil catch cans, but had also seen many against it, saying that it was not necessary, maybe voided warranties, etc. At this point, their opinions did not matter anymore. I saw enough oil inside the intake to justify it. I bought a cheap $30 OCC online, and installed it between the pcv valve and intake.

Started driving, immediately saw that I had caught 1/2 qt of oil with the OCC in only 300 miles! I replaced the PCV valve, no difference. The valve itself is not the problem.

Removed the hose between the OCC and the intake, replaced with a simple breather. Driven about 400 miles, no oil getting in the OCC! Oil level in the crankcase is stable! The oil still looks and smells good! It seems that the issue is solved. Unfortunately I don't get paid for this research (but I hope that it helps someone)

Questions to consider:

1) The oil consumption issue seems to be very common in these cars. Is it possible, that most ALL cases of oil consumption is from a bad pcv system? I think it is easy for all forum members to respond with "the piston rings are wore", but how many rebuilds prove this? I cannot find 1 post/thread out there, where the piston rings were replaced and the oil consumption disappeared. And I figure Kia would not advise anyone to vent the pcv, that would basically be illegal since its emissions related. And if the pcv system cannot be fixed/redesigned, is this why they avoid dealing with it? It is ridiculous to read that 1 qt consumed in 1000 miles is acceptable to Kia. This sounds like their 'escape' from the issue.

2) What causes the PCV system to dump oil? A car with low miles seems to not have the issue, and one with higher miles seems to develop it. It is not the PCV valve, I replaced it 3 times with OEM, and no difference. The valve cover was cleaned/inspected, but the inside of the baffle is not really accessible. Oil does splatter inside the crankcase, and could be altered with wear etc. There is a 'intake oil control valve filter screen' in the block that I found AFTER the 2nd build, so I did not get to inspect it (why would they put a filter in the block!). But, it is not spewing oil with the breather. I would say for some reason, the intake is 'sucking' too hard, since no oil is being 'pushed' out the breather. How/why is the intake sucking too hard? I replaced air filter and cleaned throttle body on the intake side. Vacuum would be higher in the intake when the throttle body is closed, but the OCC was also filling up with oil while driving on the interstate.

Below is image of the OCC installed between the pcv valve and the intake (note: the pcv valve has not yet been drilled out)
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Below is images of the OCC installed between on pcv valve and vented (note: the pcv valve has been drilled out, and the breather hose on the rear of the valve cover is also removed)
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#45 ·
I am in a similar situation with a 124k mile 2015 kia forte. from what I can see from that website the engine in my car may be included right?

I believe it has the 2.0 G4NC, My girlfriend always did her oil changes at the dealership and now all of a sudden hell has broken loose. It never showed evidence of burning oil from the exhaust but the cat converter needed to be replaced and now the car is dumping smoke out the tail pipe. I wanted to follow through with the OCC but I don't want to risk it if the car is covered under the lawsuit.

I am new to this sort of thing does anyone know of a resource to contact related to this defect?
 
#47 ·
I have a 2016 with the 2.0T and about 130,000km (81,000 miles). It has been trouble free except for a minor oil leak that was fixed under warranty about 2 years ago. This past oil change though I have had to add 2 liters of oil in 3,000 km (1900 miles). I am a bit worried. Probably time to take it in for a check out. Could that be just burning oil? I didn't see any drips on the shroud at last oil change.
 
#48 ·
I have a 16 Sorento 2.4. I bought the car with about 152k on it changed plugs and coils. Plugs were pretty nasty. I now have 175k on it and I also noticed the oil consumption as well. about 1 quart every 1k or so miles. I have done my research and its seems as though Kia calls this an "acceptable amount" If every other one of the "so called problems" check out to be non existent. I also saw a lot of owners dropping valves left and right. Luckily I haven't had either of these problems. (also compression check is acceptable across all 4. Its actually pretty fantastic considering the mileage.

There is one thing I don't know. wether or not any head and or lower engine work was done before I purchased the vehicle. The car fax report was vague to say the least. The logic (and the mathematics) behind what the creator of this thread did is spot on.

I also have done the same thing so upon me reaching another 1000 miles I will repost with my finding and any issues that might be created along the way.

I know of another owner doing this identical thing at 100k. now has over 200k on it and the only thing that he does is change the oil. no head or consumption problems.

Last is when we both change oil, we use liquid moly motor oil saver.

Im interested at the very least to see what happens myself.
 
#50 ·
Here is an update. So I haven't put many miles on my vehicle since doing the occ. maybe 200 miles. Just for kicks I pulled the catch can to inspect and I had about a 1/4 cup of what seemed to be condensation of some sort (water) in the bottom. Zero oil nothing even oil based. So now I am completely stumped as to why this happened. Any and all help (ideas) is greatly appreciated.
In about 200 more miles I will post a picture of exactly as it looks.

As far as an engine flush. Its not going to do any damage and it certainly can't hurt. That being said be absolutely sure you follow the correct procedures for using the engine flush. I have seen guys decide to do it there way or a you tube way, and wham!!! catastrophic failure as a result.
 
#52 ·
I didn't know about this issue.

I have a 2017 Kia Sorrento with 110k miles--got the oil changed in April with 5w20 synthetic, read on the KIA site that synthetic should be good for 10-15k miles between changes, but forgot the check the oil like I should. In August, after nearly 9k miles, engine started knocking. Took it in, and my mechanic says I need a new engine. Checked with my dealer insurance policy (bought it under a year ago) and they said they won't cover any issue caused by "lack of lubrication". So it feels like I'm pretty much screwed. Car was $28k with a $4k insurance policy, and now I'm being quoted an $8k engine replacement. Any advice besides checking my oil more regularly?
 
#53 ·
I didn't know about this issue.

I have a 2017 Kia Sorrento with 110k miles--got the oil changed in April with 5w20 synthetic, read on the KIA site that synthetic should be good for 10-15k miles between changes, but forgot the check the oil like I should. In August, after nearly 9k miles, engine started knocking. Took it in, and my mechanic says I need a new engine. Checked with my dealer insurance policy (bought it under a year ago) and they said they won't cover any issue caused by "lack of lubrication". So it feels like I'm pretty much screwed. Car was $28k with a $4k insurance policy, and now I'm being quoted an $8k engine replacement. Any advice besides checking my oil more regularly?
If you allowed the oil to run low, to the point where it damaged bearings, that is, unfortunately, on you. I have never seen anything from Kia even suggesting 10-15K mile oil changes and would be interested in a link to where they propose this. They want you to use synthetic but still adhere to the oil change schedule in the owners manual.
 
#54 ·
I have a 2017 Sorento as well and failed to check my oil level frequently enough. I don't go that far between oil changes, usually 5000 miles. During summer months, even more frequently because I tow. Anyway, this season because dealer was so busy and I just couldn't change my oil in time... so I let it dragged on. Then I found out that I was short 3 qts of oil before a camping trip. Luckily after topping it off, I have not noticed any major issues so far. However, if something did break, I'm sure I'll be out of luck as well.

Granted, engine shouldn't consume oil like that, but owners also have the responsibility to check fluid levels as well.

Not only that, factory recommends 5W30 oil and the largest interval I've seen is perhaps 7500~10000 miles. You expecting a trouble free engine for 15k miles is probably a bit too much.

Anyway, how does the dealer know your engine lacks lubrication? Did you top the oil off before visiting the dealer at least?
 
#56 ·
I have never seen Kia recommend 10k mile or longer oil changes. So I don’t know where you got that information. But they did send a notice out a few years ago saying most US drivers fall into the “severe maintenance schedule” and should do shorter oil changes.

 
#58 ·
They did send a notice out a few years ago saying most US drivers fall into the “severe maintenance schedule” and should do shorter oil changes.
That's valuable advice, but as a I bought the car used with 90k on it, I hadn't seen that notice. The dealerships should print that out at purchase and make clear that any bumper-to-bumper warranties won't cover the excessive oil burning or its consequences.
 
#63 ·
That’s not the US Kia page. It’s the Laos Kia page and their recommendations are different than here. I don’t know why, maybe they have better oil. But it’s not what is recommended in your owners manual and that’s what matters in the US.
 
#64 ·
I have never seen Kia recommend 10k mile or longer oil changes. So I don’t know where you got that information. But they did send a notice out a few years ago saying most US drivers fall into the “severe maintenance schedule” and should do shorter oil changes.

That's valuable advice, but as a I bought the car used with 90k on it, I hadn't seen that notice.
Have you listed yourself as the new owner with a local dealership/Kia North America?

Another possibility why you haven't seen it is that the notice was sent to the previous owner.
 
#66 ·
Sportage 2L Turbo oil consumption:
Purchased a 16 in 17 with 15k miles. At about 95k noticed oil was down 2 qts. in about 2k miles. Took to dealer for oil consumption test. Got call from dealer in about 3 hours that the engine was very oily. Went to dealer. Oil was on rear of engine near turbo. Car had been parked in same spot on concrete driveway. No oil on driveway. Conclusion: pan under engine was very grimey. I surmise oil was dripping onto pan but getting blown off by air while driving therefore didn't drip in driveway. I told dealer there was a recall/tsb(?) on leaking line from engine block to turbo. Dealer professed ignorance but eventually found the recall. Dealer replaced hose under recall and oil consumption went back to less than a quart in 5k miles. Sold car about a year later.
There are 2 exposed oil lines on 2L turbo engines. One pressurized from block to turbo and a relatively low pressure line from the turbo to return the oil to the oil pan.
Worth checking those lines especially infyou live in a salt using area as I do.
YMMV
Herb
 
#67 · (Edited)
Just this weekend, my wife's 2017 Sorento 2.4L w/ 89K miles died while on a highway trip. I drove 2 hours to pick her up, and discovered it would start and run, but on only 3 cylinders. So she took my car, and I limped the Kia home. We dropped it off at the dealer last night, and today they informed us there is no compression in cylinder 3, and we'll need a new engine. The car has been burning a huge amount of oil for a long time now, and I've checked the level about twice a month and topped it off to keep it from running out. This thread OP's experience is very interesting! When we get the car back with a new engine, I will install a catch can, to at least keep all the oil from going into the intake and burning another valve. I wonder if putting some kind of restriction in the hose to the intake might help, by reducing the volume of air flowing through the crankcase? I don't really want to go with an open breather.
 
#68 ·
@shackdaddy - Instead of a recommended interval of 10,000 to 15,000 MILES, the link you provided in post #62 indicates: "
“Have your oil changed every 10,000 miles, 15,000 kilometers, or 12 months, whichever comes first. Such intervals should be reduced by half under severe driving conditions.”
So max 15,000 KILOMETERS (not miles).
But also half of that distance when under severe driving conditions, so max 5,000 miles under those conditions.
And per the PDF referenced earlier,
for “Severe Usage Conditions”, turbocharged vehicles that the oil and oil filter be changed every 3,000 miles or 6 months, whichever occurs first. Kia’s ongoing evaluations and studies by third parties indicate that Severe Usage Conditions are now typical for perhaps most American drivers.
 
#69 ·
My 2014 Santa Fe Sport 2.0turbo sees less than 2000 miles/year. So I’m just giving it annual oil changes. I’ve already switched to synthetic, I’m just wondering if I really need to change my oil every 6 months?

btw, my Santa Fe so far has no noticeable oil consumption unlike my v6 Sorento.
 
#70 ·
My son's 17 Sorento has a huge oil consumption issue. Local dealer did the oil consumption test and it of course failed. With that done, the dealer insists now to pay for a 750 dollar combustion chamber cleaning that will supposedly clean the back side of the intake valves and free up stuck carboned up piston rings. They will not proceed with any further warranty work until he springs for that combustion chamber cleaning process. Has anyone done this and did it work????????? In the mean time we are pouring quarts and quarts of oil in this motor to keep it going.
 
#71 ·
I would advise against doing the cleaning suggested.

What's the mileage?
What's the service history, oil change interval, oil used, oil filter used?

You don't provide enough information on your specific case.

Why not attempt what's been suggested in this thread?
 
#73 ·
I keep wanting to see before/after photos of the back sides of the valves in various states of corruption to demonstrate the true efficacy any of these products. Any idea where one might find these? One would think any legit manufacturer of a GDI valve cleaner would be able to provide them.
 
#79 · (Edited)
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I don’t even see a de-carbon service available from my local dealership. I understand GDI engine can suffer carbon deposit issues, but I feel like there isn’t really a proven and good way of fixing/preventing that?

If I already have lots is deposits, the treatment might not work, but if I regularly treat it, then it might actually do some preventative work, but given that it’s so hard to noticed the difference, it’s hard for me to make a decision.

Hope you’ll noticed something after your treatment and let us know.

mine has a significant oil consumption now and I wonder if that’s also related to carbon buildup?
 
#82 ·
Ok, so I did the CRC GDI cleaner treatment today with the help of my buddy Dave. By the three minute mark, Dave said he could feel the RPM's starting to surge where he had to keep adjusting his foot on the gas pedal and had to do so the entire 20 minutes it took to do the application. There were several bursts of big smoke from the exhaust, and the idle seemed rough after the two revs of 3500 rpm before shut down and the 60 minute wait. After restarting , the idle was still rough, and it seemed to bog a few times on acceleration for maybe a minute, then smoothed out and felt like the car had gained 50 horsepower, I swear to God. All the way home, it felt more responsive . I understand there will be posters who will scoff at my findings, but I am experiencing an definite improvement in the engine function and will use this product again, likely on a yearly basis. CRC GDI intake cleaner gets a (y) from me.