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Discussion Starter #1
I am working on my 2003 Kia Sorento 3.5 V6 4x4 that stopped running out of nowhere. I pulled the coils and wires from their covers. Cylinder #4 coil is firing and I believe #1 is firing which is on the wire side. I am assuming cylinder #1 is the one that is connected to the cylinder #4 coil.

The other coils do not spark. If I switch either one of the other coils to the #4 position they both work. This is where I stopped. I did not have my multimeter or test light with me. I really do not like electrical issues.

I did not see any split wires. Where do I look next? What gives the coils their power?

I am thinking crank shaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, wiring, ecu.

Is there anything that specifically controls the #2 and #6 coil packs but not the #4 which is the one that is still working?

Has anyone had any similar issues? Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The battery was low but I checked the voltage at the connector for each coil module and I got about 7 volts from the red wire on each one. I am assuming the problem is that whatever gives the coils their signal is not working properly. Any comments would be great.
 

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If batt voltage is normal (12.2 or higher) but you only have 7 at the coil primary hot side ck the ign failure sensor, its on top of the intake manifold, make sure the connector is secure/tight and no corrosion on the pins. FWIW, Those sensors also have a rather high failure rate in Sedona`s but not too much on Sorento...might be worth swapping out if its not too much $$$.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If batt voltage is normal (12.2 or higher) but you only have 7 at the coil primary hot side ck the ign failure sensor, its on top of the intake manifold, make sure the connector is secure/tight and no corrosion on the pins. FWIW, Those sensors also have a rather high failure rate in Sedona`s but not too much on Sorento...might be worth swapping out if its not too much $$$.
Ok so it should have been 12v+ at the coil and it should be the same at the failure sensor (also refered to as the misfire sensor)? The battery was dead. I must have left something on yesterday. I will check the misfire sensor for corrosion. It does not seem like parts are cheap or very available for this truck. $108 from autozone $66 from rockauto with shipping. Is there a way to test it? I hate guessing and waisting money.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just got off the phone with a hyundia tech and he said that they have a seperate ground for each coil pack and to check that. This for the first time makes some sense because the one coil works.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Found a wiring diagram but it does not tell me where to look for the actual ground location. Anybody know or have a better wiring diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, I have gotten much further in the diagnosis.

Just check it out with my circut tester. Connected between the front most pin in the coil connector which is 12v power and the center which is ground ALL three cylinders light up solid.

Now connected to 12v front pin and the other pin which is on the opposite pin I am getting a good pulse or flash on cylinder #4 and the other two cylinders light up solid on this pin. I am going to check voltage and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The #4cylinder measured between red 12v and middle ground shows no power until engine is cranked. 12v to oposite end connector shows power with key on accessories position and drops very low when engine is cranked. flashes to 4-6 volts for a second. The battery is a little low.

OK this is weird. The other two cylinders show power from red 12v pin to center ground pin. They both show power from red 12v pin to the one on the opposite end with the key in the accessory position but the difference is that when you crank the engine the power does not drop like I saw in the cylinder 4 plug.

Not sure where to go from here.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
To sum it up. Cylinders number 2 and 6 do not have an ignition pulse. They do have keyed power and then constant power when they should pulse.

Cylinder number 4 works fine and pulses.
 

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I now drive a 2003 S-10 Had an 03 LX 3.5 Sorento
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Have you checked either the crankshaft or the camshaft sensors yet?
They both have an effect on the fuel delivery and ignition systems in one way or another.
 

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2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
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Chris...
you said on your post @10:54PM

"Now connected to 12v front pin and the other pin which is on the opposite pin I am getting a good pulse or flash on cylinder #4 and the other two cylinders light up solid on this pin"
I will use the PDF file supplied by nstoolman1 ...

If you look at the schematic that nstoolman1 supplied you will see on page two the pins#3 on the coil packs have different wires going to the ECM. You will also see that there is a dashed line around all of those wires (A11,A12,A13). This dashed line means the wires are shielded with a wire that is tied to ground.
It looks like you may have a wiring harness problem and those shields on coils #1 (A12) and #3 (A13) have shorted to the center wire giving you the "dead" condition on these coils..
My suggestion is to disconnect the large connector from the ECM and see if the grounding problem goes away... on (A12) and (A13)
If it does then the ECM IS at fault... (doubtful)
If the grounding problem remains then you have a wiring harness problem where the outside shield around the wires has shorted to to the center wires. (more likely)

The coils connected to A11,A12,A13 need to see a pulse from the ECM... Only coil#2 is getting this pulse and IS firing. The other coils (1&3) have that pulse signal shorted to ground and can not fire.

The ECM usually is NOT the problem but posters on these forums replace them only to find that they wasted their money... Carefully check the wiring harnesses and if possible check the plugs and sockets for corrosion damage (usually looks GREEN).

Get back to us on what you found...
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Problem found

I finally found the main source of the ignition problem. After testing the power, pulse, and grounds on the three coil connectors yesterday; I realized something was not right. I tested the front and rear coil connectors for ignition pulse and at first no pulse, then they were pulsing.



I thought to myself this has got to be something more simple than what I am looking for because I have noticed that the people who worked on this truck before me re-installed only the bolts that were easy to put back in and did not tighten them more than hand tight.



So I decided to finally take off the drivers side timing cover to see what the camshaft position sensor looked like. One of the ears was broken off of the cover. When I got it off I saw a groove that was made in the center of the top of the timing belt. The inside of the timing cover had a 10mm head shorty bolt jammed and melted into it which was slightly rubbing the belt. I said to my friend who was there with me "this is what I was looking for. After shining the flash light down and following the wire for the cam sensor I found it "hanging around". So I guess that the mechanic that must have been drunk working on this truck used the same technique of using half the original bolts and hand tightening everything on not only the brackets that did not do much on the outside of the engine but also the bolts on the timing set and surrounding area.



I got luck because the wiring was not damaged but the sensor was chewed up. Just for fun I put the sensor in and the truck eventually fired up. Eventually it started to misfired after reving it alittle. cam senor code, cylinder 6 misfire code twice and p1121 fuel code which I have gotten before.



I am going to order a cam sensor and see how that makes the car run. I am also going to get some spark plugs and the throttle body gasket since those plugs are soaked in fuel. Hopefully the fuel code will go away.



Thanks to everyone who helped and stayed with me this far. I will continue to update as things get done. I forgot to add that the timing set was done about a year ago along with a lot of other work at the dealer. My friend who is the original owner said the bill was $1,900. This was the second time the timing belt was done and it has 116,000 miles. I would not reccommend the kia service center on rounte 9 in the freehold area. It is sad because the average person would think bringing it to the dealer is the best way to have thier vehicle fixed.
 

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If that belt has any cuts, nicks or grooves in it should be replaced. You don't want that belt failing. It will cost a lot more to repair/replace the engine when it does. While your in it I would replace the crank sensor also. Who knows what the previous mechanic did in the areas you can't see. I would also replace all the timing parts. Jmho.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If that belt has any cuts, nicks or grooves in it should be replaced. You don't want that belt failing. It will cost a lot more to repair/replace the engine when it does. While your in it I would replace the crank sensor also. Who knows what the previous mechanic did in the areas you can't see. I would also replace all the timing parts. Jmho.
Right now the truck is not on the road and I am going to try and fix all of the little things first. I am going to get a set of spark plugs today and sell if I can get the occational shackyness to go away. No check engine lights yet.
 
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