Waste gate actuators are very much external components, attached to the outside of the turbo assembly. Typically, it's a matter of two bolts holding the actuator to the side of the turbo assembly, and one clip or similar to release the linkage. That said, we don't have the diesel here, so I can't speak about how easy/hard it will be to access on a Sorento. I would certainly discuss it with an independent shop before I'd shell out anything NEAR $1700. IF access isn't a problem (yeah, big IF), it's about a 10 minute job.

 

Thanks, yea as you say access is likely to be the issue

 

Looks like it's at the rear of the engine underneath the turbo, not sure how it's held in place, wondering if turbo may need to come out to do it

 

"Underneath" as opposed to 'aside' could make it a lot easier. If you can get it up on a rack to look, you should get a very good idea of the level of difficulty.
Just looked at a 2.5 crdi being replaced (and it comes out the top with the exhaust manifold, after the air box and a lot of heat shields are removed) and it LOOKED like the actuator was on the top.

 

This is an old 2010 Santa Fe 2.2R setup, similar .

And this is yours. If you get it from Spare Korea it'll be about $165 USD ($225 Aussie, $235 Kiwi)) that will be via DHL and be at your door step likely within the week!

Just realised you're in NZ

It's also worthwhile considering any other desirable parts to order at the same time. Maybe a new circlip, and the item most likely to be dropped or lost in that job.
Is it defective or jamming?

How's the engine mounts going? Drivers side eventually fails and collapses causing excessive vibration on the Hyundai/Kias



282352F700

 

What was the error code? Could be worth making sure the actuator rod is not jammed at the turbo end. It'd be frustrating it you replaced the actuator if it can't move that rod.

Hopefully that's the part you're talking about I thought that was to do with the variable vane geometry for the turbo.

 

Thanks for all the excellent photos and info. Dealer just said that the actuator needs replacing. We actually have an engine light on now which we never had prior to going to the dealer. Car has only done 63,000kms. I might put it on a hoist and see what I can see from underneath. I do think that the turbo will have to come out to do it all. I can move the rod manually with my hand with engine off

 

https://www.sparekorea.com/product/parts/1475005?no=282352F700

5 years old and 63K, I'd be trying to get kia to replace it. Seems premature to me, hopefully you have some decent consumer laws. We get 7 years here.

I guess if you DIY and it solves it t's not a huge amount of money.

Just check the part number, I was using Australia Catalog but it should be correct. By VIN is the best way to be sure

 

Yea car only had a 3 year warranty. I think the new ones are 5

 

 

Not sure how to cross reference the part numbers on mine to confirm with what has been posted

 

you get your VIN and put it im here, Catalog KIA

Then drill down to engine, exhaust manifold area I think, click on the number that going to the highest assembly for the actuator and likely end up with what I posted.

 

Thanks, yes what you posted is correct

 

is k-spare.com or sparekorea.com preferred to purchase from?

 

Have ordered from sparekorea, great website. Had another look at the job and looks like removal of turbo will be easiest. Thanks for everyones help.

 

I'd try to do it with turbo in place unless it's impossible. just remember there's oil lines and metal gaskets and washers. Sometimes those bolts round easy on flanges that get real hot. I tried a turbo removal on an i30 and ended taking the whole manifold off .

 

Finally got around to replacing actuator, did it from below on a hoist, took a few hours, lost the circlip.. But I still have an issue. Engine light still on and flashing, and still in limp mode. As soon as you start the engine and it idles the actuator opens up fully and stays open which I assume it shouldn't.? Hopefully the computer just needs resetting? With the actuator unplugged it doesn't go into limp mode.

 

Funny but not quite, I did mention ordering an extra circlip, sorry to hear. Been there myself on other things, darn things. Sometimes a good degrease and a hose can flush things out or a strong magnet. It would definitely need a relearn. Factory level scan tool can do it. Not sure if it will learn itself. How many cycles have you tried on the ignition?

I don't know what the correct position would be at start up. It could be that's correct. It says 92% duty cycle at idle and 27% at 3200RPM

 

Thanks, will get it back to the dealer to check it out I think

 

Dealer has had to relearn the new part to the computer. Seems all good now, thanks for all your help mate

 

I have to ask, what did they charge? Hours labour? Were they pissed off missing out on the $1700

 

Was $180 for the initial diagnosis in which they had to spend a bit of time to get it to actually fault. This final one today was only about $80 to relearn everything, which we had done same time as a warrant of fitness check. No my wife said the guy mentioned a couple times what a good job I had done... I wonder if they had priced to remove the turbo to do it, as it was a prick to do from below. I'm not sure what the part cost was from them but I would be guessing $600 or something... So all up it cost me just over $500 and a few hours of my time, luckily my father has a hoist I could use.

 

I'll predict the part was likely double what you think. A $1000 is not unrealistic based on the mark ups I've seen here often by 5 on electronic stuff

 

Nice job fellas. I have one similar here in the UK - the issue is that Kia / Hyundai dont sell the actuator as a separate part according to the GDS diagnostic. I'm going to try and replace it like you did without removing the turbo.

 

Good info, thanks a lot. I’ll be giving it a go next week, when the actuator arrives!

 

As mentioned make sure u have some spare circlips on hand cause u will lose all of them haha.