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2005 Kia Sedona
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Discussion Starter #1
So here's the backstory...

I have a 2005 Kia Sedona EX. Bought in October.
Recently, I noticed that as I drove on the freeway, when I hit 50-65, it would stutter a bit, catch, and go. No check engine light.
Planned to have it fixed, then out of nowhere, she starts overheating... Apparently my waterpump. (pressure tested, he said she's leaking from the front, could only be pump) So I have that replaced.
Runs fine when mechanic has me start her.
I drive her for less than a day, and then she's chugging REALLY badly. Idles rough, at stoplights, she's nearly cutting off, put her in drive, she will cut off unless you give more gas. Went through nearly 1/4 tank of gas to go up the hill to autozone. C heck engine light now on 24/7.

Autozone gave me P300, P301, P303 and P305 codes.
Seems awfully strange that 3 plugs (and the 3 rear ones to boot) would go out all at once...

So my question... Is it possible that something happened within the waterpump repair to cause the issues I'm now having? If so, what could that be?
(I realize I probably have a bad coil - that first issue)
I just paid $500 for my waterpump, and am not fond of giving him another $350 to replace my plugs, wires and coils if it's not the cause...
But, I'm a disabled mom with a special needs kid. I need reliable transportation.

Thank you for any help you can offer.
 

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09 kia spectra ex,04 Neon,04 Chry. T&C, 08 Pontiac G6 gt
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Sorry to post this...BUT an 05 with probably 100K+ miles and symptoms of spark plug misfires BEFORE a water pump replacement, Yes it could very well be plugs and coils. On the V6 motors a rather involving job for something that from days of old were easy to do. And just like Doctor bills, auto repair costs are NOT cheap anymore if one can not DIY.
Good Luck to you and vehicle! :)
 

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2003 Kia Sedona EX
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Autozone gave me P300, P301, P303 and P305 codes.
Seems awfully strange that 3 plugs (and the 3 rear ones to boot) would go out all at once...
So a P0300 code would mean a random misfire.
P0301, P0303 and P0305 means the misfire is cylinders 1, 3 and 5.

Since those 3 cylinders are indeed the 3 left side (by firewall), the whole side has a problem. Most likely would be head gasket, bad piston rings or possibly some issue with fuel rail to that side or very fouled up spark plugs.

It's the tougher side to work on, but I would check spark plugs first. Then coils (located on top of plugs on other side), then compression check.

Unfortunately, sounds like it could become a very expensive fix (via mechanic), and maybe need an engine rebuild or replacement.

Here's a short video that should help explain it. The car he's working on is an Audi, but has the same principle behind it.

Hope this helps, let me know if you need more info.
 

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2005 Kia Sedona
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Discussion Starter #4
I understand what you're saying... But what's the likelihood that all 3 rear sparkplug go out at the exact same time, directly after the waterpump/timing belt repair?

Aside from the issue that was diagnosed as a coil (no check engine light, and very minimal stuttering at increasing to 50-65mph)
There were absolutely no other signs of spark plug issues prior to the overheating that was diagnosed as waterpump.
It seems rather strange to have all 3 start misfiring on the same day, and within 24hrs of the repair.
 

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99 Kia Elan 1.8L, 17 Ford Edge Sport 2.7L V6, 15 Mustang 3.7L V6, 08 Harley Nightrain
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I understand what you're saying... But what's the likelihood that all 3 rear sparkplug go out at the exact same time, directly after the waterpump/timing belt repair?

Aside from the issue that was diagnosed as a coil (no check engine light, and very minimal stuttering at increasing to 50-65mph)
There were absolutely no other signs of spark plug issues prior to the overheating that was diagnosed as waterpump.
It seems rather strange to have all 3 start misfiring on the same day, and within 24hrs of the repair.
Three good plugs going bad at the same time is an unlikely coincidence, but more likely a consequence of the overheating.
 

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2005 Kia Sedona
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Discussion Starter #6
Three good plugs going bad at the same time is an unlikely coincidence, but more likely a consequence of the overheating.
Ahhh. Hadn't considered 5hat as a possibility. Thank you.

So plugs (all 6) and wires were changed yesterday. Waiting on coils to be shipped.
Meanwhile, the van is still throwing the same codes and check engine light is on...
Is it normal to have the coils cause the same codes?

Thank you for your help. I've learned more about Betsy in the last 2 weeks than I have since I bought her.
 

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Ahhh. Hadn't considered 5hat as a possibility. Thank you.

So plugs (all 6) and wires were changed yesterday. Waiting on coils to be shipped.
Meanwhile, the van is still throwing the same codes and check engine light is on...
Is it normal to have the coils cause the same codes?

Thank you for your help. I've learned more about Betsy in the last 2 weeks than I have since I bought her.
A misfire code could be triggered by compression, low voltage side of coils, high voltage side of coils, bad spark plug, .................. only diagnostics will identify which of the many possible causes, but it appears that you're not keen on the diagnostic approach.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
A misfire code could be triggered by compression, low voltage side of coils, high voltage side of coils, bad spark plug, .................. only diagnostics will identify which of the many possible causes, but it appears that you're not keen on the diagnostic approach.
I'm not a mechanic...which means the "diagnostic approach" you said I'm not keen on, is something I have no knowledge of. It's not lack of interest. But I also can't afford a shop at this point. If you have some diagnostic suggestions you can offer, that would be great.
It can't be the spark plug, as I just replaced them. Even if one were defective, it's a near impossibility for only the new 3 rear ones to be defective.
My question was simple.
Could the coils cause the same codes I previously reported?
 

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It's the tougher side to work on, but I would check spark plugs first. Then coils (located on top of plugs on other side), then compression check.

Unfortunately, sounds like it could become a very expensive fix (via mechanic), and maybe need an engine rebuild or replacement.
I'm not a mechanic...which means the "diagnostic approach" you said I'm not keen on, is something I have no knowledge of. It's not lack of interest. But I also can't afford a shop at this point. If you have some diagnostic suggestions you can offer, that would be great.
A starting point would be a compression test.


It can't be the spark plug, as I just replaced them. Even if one were defective, it's a near impossibility for only the new 3 rear ones to be defective.
My question was simple.
Could the coils cause the same codes I previously reported?
Yes, and so could a whole load of other things.
 

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Not sure if you're planning to tackle it on your, but shouldn't be too terribly difficult.
Here's a good video tutorial on how to do compression test.


If I remember correctly, this is the compression test tool he uses in the video. Hopefully this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not sure if you're planning to tackle it on your, but shouldn't be too terribly difficult.
Here's a good video tutorial on how to do compression test.


If I remember correctly, this is the compression test tool he uses in the video. Hopefully this helps.
[U
Thank you!! I'll definitely see if it's possible for me to do.

We changed the plugs, wires and coils.

Van is still throwing the spark plug codes, and has added in 154 for fun.
She's running tons better though...

So I'm bewildered.
 

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A starting point would be a compression test.



Yes
, and so could a whole load of other things.
Thank you!! I'll definitely see if it's possible for me to do.

We changed the plugs, wires and coils.

Van is still throwing the spark plug codes, and has added in 154 for fun.
She's running tons better though...

So I'm bewildered.
Could have saved some money - 90% of the time throwing parts at it hoping for a positive outcome is way more costly than a diagnostic approach.
 

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2019 Kia Sportage. SX with AWD. 2.0L Direct Injected Turbocharged & Intercooled Gas.
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Marianne Is-Loved said:
Seems strange that something just "goes out" directly following a repair, when there are no symptoms.

It has happened to me many, many times....I've never been able to nail down the 'smoking gun' as to why.
So, don't feel like your alone in this regard.....
 
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So here's the backstory...

I have a 2005 Kia Sedona EX. Bought in October.
Recently, I noticed that as I drove on the freeway, when I hit 50-65, it would stutter a bit, catch, and go. No check engine light.
Planned to have it fixed, then out of nowhere, she starts overheating... Apparently my waterpump. (pressure tested, he said she's leaking from the front, could only be pump) So I have that replaced.
Runs fine when mechanic has me start her.
I drive her for less than a day, and then she's chugging REALLY badly. Idles rough, at stoplights, she's nearly cutting off, put her in drive, she will cut off unless you give more gas. Went through nearly 1/4 tank of gas to go up the hill to autozone. C heck engine light now on 24/7.

Autozone gave me P300, P301, P303 and P305 codes.
Seems awfully strange that 3 plugs (and the 3 rear ones to boot) would go out all at once...

So my question... Is it possible that something happened within the waterpump repair to cause the issues I'm now having? If so, what could that be?
(I realize I probably have a bad coil - that first issue)
I just paid $500 for my waterpump, and am not fond of giving him another $350 to replace my plugs, wires and coils if it's not the cause...
But, I'm a disabled mom with a special needs kid. I need reliable transportation.

Thank you for any help you can offer.
I'm not a mechanic...which means the "diagnostic approach" you said I'm not keen on, is something I have no knowledge of. It's not lack of interest. But I also can't afford a shop at this point. If you have some diagnostic suggestions you can offer, that would be great.
It can't be the spark plug, as I just replaced them. Even if one were defective, it's a near impossibility for only the new 3 rear ones to be defective.
My question was simple.
Could the coils cause the same codes I previously reported?
1. Yes, the coils can give you hesitation at 50 mph driving. My van did that. Couldn't figure it out for long time until tried a new coil (Cyl #4) and that fixed it.

I think (my suspicion) is that the mechanic messed up your timing. You said he changed your water pump.

You know, you have to open the front of engine (front drive engines are located in side ways as in transverse, so front of the engine is on your left side if looking from the front with hood open) to change the water pump.

And water pump is run by the timing belt. 2005 Sedona has timing belt (not chain). I don't know what he did, but there are whole bunch of things that are connected with that belt when you open the cover off (crank pulley, cam shaft pulleys, water pump, tensioner pulley and idler pulley).

You have to loosen the timing belt to replace the water pump. So, he had to realign and tighten the timing belt once replacing the water pump (if he really did it).

If you miss a teeth on the cams shaft or the crank pulley, you will experience all those symptoms, hesitation, stuttering, engine shutting off, all these misfire codes. You can throw in new spark plugs, wires and ignition coils and it won't fix them.

DO NOT GO TO that guy. Usual cost of timing belt and water pump plus a few pulleys is around $850 to $1,300 - if I can guess depending on region, hourly rates and parts cost.

If your car is over 100,000 miles you must change all those every 100,000 miles.(they are maintenance items)
  • water pump
  • timing belt
  • tensioner pulley
  • another pulley
  • tensioner
at minimum.

You can buy all those parts (good parts OEM from rockauto) in a package for around $170. Then rest is labor. (go to rockauto.com and you can price out all those parts)

Conclusion, I think your timing if off.
 

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99 Kia Elan 1.8L, 17 Ford Edge Sport 2.7L V6, 15 Mustang 3.7L V6, 08 Harley Nightrain
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1. Yes, the coils can give you hesitation at 50 mph driving. My van did that. Couldn't figure it out for long time until tried a new coil (Cyl #4) and that fixed it.

I think (my suspicion) is that the mechanic messed up your timing. You said he changed your water pump.

You know, you have to open the front of engine (front drive engines are located in side ways as in transverse, so front of the engine is on your left side if looking from the front with hood open) to change the water pump.

And water pump is run by the timing belt. 2005 Sedona has timing belt (not chain). I don't know what he did, but there are whole bunch of things that are connected with that belt when you open the cover off (crank pulley, cam shaft pulleys, water pump, tensioner pulley and idler pulley).

You have to loosen the timing belt to replace the water pump. So, he had to realign and tighten the timing belt once replacing the water pump (if he really did it).

If you miss a teeth on the cams shaft or the crank pulley, you will experience all those symptoms, hesitation, stuttering, engine shutting off, all these misfire codes. You can throw in new spark plugs, wires and ignition coils and it won't fix them.

DO NOT GO TO that guy. Usual cost of timing belt and water pump plus a few pulleys is around $850 to $1,300 - if I can guess depending on region, hourly rates and parts cost.

If your car is over 100,000 miles you must change all those every 100,000 miles.(they are maintenance items)
  • water pump
  • timing belt
  • tensioner pulley
  • another pulley
  • tensioner
at minimum.

You can buy all those parts (good parts OEM from rockauto) in a package for around $170. Then rest is labor. (go to rockauto.com and you can price out all those parts)

Conclusion, I think your timing if off.
Very good point, and the suggested compression test would have pointed to a problem such as valve timing etc., and would look at that before throwing coils and plugs at it.
 

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A lot of people still look for the easy plug and play FIX without diagnostic checks before just putting in parts...I wish in many cases that it could be so, but it's NOT

I did NOT post this pointing exclusively towards the OP! Some (actually many) V6's today are a real bear to work on!
 
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