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2011 Sorento LX 4cyl AWD 2012 Sorento EX V6
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Discussion Starter #1
Here's a nice video of a guy adding a basic amp/subwoofer to a Kia Sorento, looks like a 2011 (?)

He drills a hole through the firewall for power, taps the radio fuse for remote, and adds wires to the middle pillars to access the rear speaker lines.


I'm hoping there's a more direct way to run the power wire, as his drilled hole in the firewall method could potentially short if he doesn't go back and protect it.
 

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Sorento SX-V6 AWD
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That whole thing makes babies cry. I understand that everyone has to start somewhere, but not using a grommet on the hole drilled through the firewall, not protecting the bare wire in the engine compartment, not securing the wire to anything anywhere along it's run through the vehicle, tapping into the fuse box by wrapping the exposed wire around the fuse, having the signal wires run exposed in the doorjambs, using an extension cord as a quick disconnect; this is just bad. I only avoid saying dangerous because there is at least a fuse in the system. Please don't do any of the things shown in this video.
 

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2011 Kia Sorento EX AWD V6 Limited/Panoramic
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I started watching this, but then gave up.

Why wouldn't you tap into the speaker wire at the head unit, or in the floor, rather than at the door.

Jeff
 

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2011 Sorento LX 4cyl AWD 2012 Sorento EX V6
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Discussion Starter #6
mogulman said:
started watching this, but then gave up.

Why wouldn't you tap into the speaker wire at the head unit, or in the floor, rather than at the door.
Well accessing the head unit can be daunting, and the lack of information and good harness options doesn't help.

His method lets people tap into some easily accessible locations.
 

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2011 Sorento LX 4cyl AWD 2012 Sorento EX V6
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Discussion Starter #7
That whole thing makes babies cry. I understand that everyone has to start somewhere, but not using a grommet on the hole drilled through the firewall, not protecting the bare wire in the engine compartment, not securing the wire to anything anywhere along it's run through the vehicle, tapping into the fuse box by wrapping the exposed wire around the fuse, having the signal wires run exposed in the doorjambs, using an extension cord as a quick disconnect; this is just bad. I only avoid saying dangerous because there is at least a fuse in the system. Please don't do any of the things shown in this video.
Agreed, although in the video he does recommending finishing with grommet.

Is there a better place to breach the firewall? I've enjoyed your writeups, but with your protected wire I can't quite see where you are doing that when it's black loom surrounded by other black loom and blackness :)
 

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Where he went through the firewall is probably the easiest, as that's where the clutch mounts on the manual transmission model. This pretty much guarantees a fair amount of room without dangerous bits on either side, and a pretty easy place to drill. However, there are so many good options for wire protection that the failure to use one is terrible. And yes he did recommend using one, but the only way he'll be able to put one on is to completely undo all the wire on the inside and redo it, since he can't get it over the fuse holder.
Firewall Bushings in the Car Audio Department at Parts Express | 425

Personally I figured Kia was smarter than me, so I followed their wires. Stock the main harness goes from the engine compartment, into the fenderwell of the drivers side front fender, then into the side of the dash above the driver's kickpanel. Plenty of room to work, no drilling, and already watertight.

Also, I was able to make a jumper harness using commonly available harness sets (I don't remember which ones they were, but the info is in the giant radio thread of mine) which allowed me to jump into the stock harness behind the radio and just plug in two connectors. No splice, no tap. If'n I was going to try to get the wires somewhere else, I'd probably pull up the front kickplates over the door jamb and see if I could get into the bundle before it goes up the B-pillar. This would let me access the same wires but not have anything exposed.
Finally, (not directed at anyone in particular) don't be afraid to ask for help. There's enough smart people enough places that chances are if you ask, someone will be close enough to help. As an example, I'm in NoVa, and have a pretty nice shop for myself. I'd be happy to help people with their vehicles/stereos. Used to belong to an offroading club and we'd have wrenching weekends, where we'd all go to someone's house and help each other work on their jeeps and whatnot.

Edit: It doesn't bother me enough yet to go out to my car with a multimeter and check, but he does specify what side of the fuse to tap into. If you do such a thing, please make absolutely sure that you're on the load side of the fuse and not the feed side. Tapping into the wrong side is the same as having no fuse. Also remember that fuses are there to protect the wire, not the device. If the turn-on lead for the amp is 16g or larger, it's safe with a 7.5a fuse. If it's an 18 or 20g, it's overfused and could be dangerous. He said it was a scosche fuse, so I assume it was a scosche wiring kit. Scosche doesn't say what size the turn on lead wire is though. There's a reason for doing things the right way even if it's harder, and safety is a big one. Radio amp turn-on leads are usually measured in miliamps, and the wiring for them is usually appropriately sized. Putting a potential 7.5a through that wire could mean a fire, or at least an exciting few minutes. FWIW 7.5a is the size fuse in the heated grips for my motorcycle.
 

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2011 Sorento LX 4cyl AWD 2012 Sorento EX V6
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Discussion Starter #9
Also, I was able to make a jumper harness using commonly available harness sets (I don't remember which ones they were, but the info is in the giant radio thread of mine)
This is exactly what I wish to do. But I have a different audio system that doesn't match. Someone started a thread on UVO but the photos are gone. They reference only one of the necessary harness adapters, and that one seems to be non-existent:

http://www.metraonline.com/part/73-7304

There's only one dealer for these parts here, no returns and sky high prices, so I'd want to get it right.
 

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Dandelion, I believe I got one of mine straight from metra, as they were brand new and not carried by any dealer yet. Want to say I paid $30ish for that particular harness, but it was worth it.
 

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2011 Sorento LX 4cyl AWD 2012 Sorento EX V6
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Discussion Starter #12
An extension cord? to plug it in....
I have a sub box but I use a trailer plug instead :) It's very handy to easily remove it.

I'm thinking of building a custom flat version that can go under the Sorento false floor, since I almost never use that space. My worry though is I could spend a lot of time and money doing that and just up with bad vibrations.
 

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2011 Sorento LX 4cyl AWD 2012 Sorento EX V6
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Discussion Starter #13
Dandelion, I believe I got one of mine straight from metra, as they were brand new and not carried by any dealer yet. Want to say I paid $30ish for that particular harness, but it was worth it.
I'd need the UVO ones that seem more rare. I'm not sure if going straight to metra is an option. Their dealer here is awful and will charge $60-90 for a harness with no remorse because he does not like DIY. At all.
 

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I have a sub box but I use a trailer plug instead :) It's very handy to easily remove it.

I'm thinking of building a custom flat version that can go under the Sorento false floor, since I almost never use that space. My worry though is I could spend a lot of time and money doing that and just up with bad vibrations.

In the video it looked like he was using the Extension Cord to plug in the speaker wires? is that what you are using a trailer plug for as well? Why not just unplug the speaker wires when you need to remove the sub box?
 

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If you must have a connector inline, I recommend using Deans Ultra Plug Connector, pair from Hobby Lobby Dean's connectors. huge amp rating, miniscule resistance, easy to connect/disconnect, and fairly cheap. Just make sure that the amp side of the wire has the female end and the speaker end has the male. This makes sure that if the wire flops around you don't accidentally ground the amp output.
Email metra directly, don't bother with your local guy. I found them to be very helpful.
I've got the third row seats so I can't build the sub into the floor, but I'd love to be able to. I'm going to have to fiberglass myself one where the stocker is supposed to fit.
 

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2011 Sorento LX 4cyl AWD 2012 Sorento EX V6
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Discussion Starter #16
If you must have a connector inline, I recommend using Deans Ultra Plug Connector, pair from Hobby Lobby Dean's connectors. huge amp rating, miniscule resistance, easy to connect/disconnect, and fairly cheap. Just make sure that the amp side of the wire has the female end and the speaker end has the male. This makes sure that if the wire flops around you don't accidentally ground the amp output.
Email metra directly, don't bother with your local guy. I found them to be very helpful.
I've got the third row seats so I can't build the sub into the floor, but I'd love to be able to. I'm going to have to fiberglass myself one where the stocker is supposed to fit.
After months of fruitless searching craigslist for a suitable flat subwoofer box to put under the floor, I'm also at the point of just getting one of those small wedge boxes that go behind the seats in a pick up truck.

I'd almost consider building my own but I have no means to means to cut the circles for the driver and port.

I'm also worried I might build this whole thing and the floor hatch door will just vibrate.
 

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2011 Sorento LX 4cyl AWD 2012 Sorento EX V6
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Discussion Starter #17
If you must have a connector inline, I recommend using Deans Ultra Plug Connector, pair from Hobby Lobby Dean's connectors. huge amp rating, miniscule resistance, easy to connect/disconnect, and fairly cheap. Just make sure that the amp side of the wire has the female end and the speaker end has the male. This makes sure that if the wire flops around you don't accidentally ground the amp output.
Email metra directly, don't bother with your local guy. I found them to be very helpful.
I've got the third row seats so I can't build the sub into the floor, but I'd love to be able to. I'm going to have to fiberglass myself one where the stocker is supposed to fit.
Yes, at least in this case I did have the foresight to make sure the amp side was the socket* side of the trailer plug to prevent any shorting.

* I always call it female/male too, but my instructor was always quick to tell me it should be 'socket' and 'pin' to avoid any sexism!
 

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After months of fruitless searching craigslist for a suitable flat subwoofer box to put under the floor, I'm also at the point of just getting one of those small wedge boxes that go behind the seats in a pick up truck.

I'd almost consider building my own but I have no means to means to cut the circles for the driver and port.

I'm also worried I might build this whole thing and the floor hatch door will just vibrate.
I have the Kicker Powered Sub, Bassstation, 10 inch. It fits nicely in the lower compartment in back and sounds awesome. Using factory non Nav system.
 
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