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Kia Rio 5 SX UVO 2013
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everybody!

Since the first time hearing the OEM speakers in my brand new car I knew I wanted to swap them. Since I know it might interest people to do it themselves I thought to take pictures and do a little tutorial.

I bought Sound Ordnance P-65 (6 1/2") for the front doors and P-52 (5 1/4") for the back doors. It's Crutchfield's home brand so I'm not expecting something to rival my home theater system. Crutchfield included adapter mounts free of charge for the speakers but a bag of accessories (wires, screws and speed clips) was missing; so far their customer service has been top notch in helping me to get the missing parts ASAP.

I'm keeping the stock head unit since my needs are not for the whole neighborhood to hear me but just get better quality than the crappy OEM speakers. The P-65 are really a good step up for something cheap (they're on sale right now ;)). The bass is wayyyyyyyyyyyy better (not subwoofer level though of course) and the sound is just way clearer / better overall.

I couldn't find the UVO radio RMS output power but in any case the volume level is more than good enough without distortion for my hearing taste. As the speakers are not super high sensitivity (88db) you will need to give a little bit more volume in order to reach the same levels as with the OEMS. Not a biggy for me at all with the superior sound quality!

I think I will keep the stock tweeters for now as they don't overpower the set too much and a little treble adjustment goes a long way.

Things you'll need :

- #8 3/4" self-tapping screws (screws included with speakers are too long, you could saw them off instead)
- #12 washers (optional)
- 10mm wrench (for disconnecting the battery and the speaker mount screws)
- Wire cutter
- Star screwdriver
- Some kind of small blade (Swiss knife is perfect for the job)
- Long nose pliers

- And finally, a 2012+ Rio 5:


 

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Kia Rio 5 SX UVO 2013
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Continued

To start off, open up your hood and disconnect the negative connection from battery (Bro tip : unlock all your doors before or else you won't be able to get into the car).

Once that is done, you can start to remove the door panel. There are 3 screws to remove :





I used a small swiss knife blade to lift up the small covers. After that your star screwdriver will do the rest.

Once the screws are out, remove the door handle surround. After that you can remove the panel without breaking the pins holding it. I found a good lever place to start in the upper right near the window. Do not use excessive force and go at it gradually.

Work your way until all the panel is out then disconnect the wire brackets (2 on driver side, 1 on the passenger side).

The OEM speaker is now exposed!

 

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Kia Rio 5 SX UVO 2013
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Continued

Using your 10mm wrench, remove the oem Speaker.

You can see how the wiring is set here :



Use long nose pliers to get the little black pin out (on the right) then disconnect the bracket from the speaker. Remove the electrical tape cover from the wires and cut the wires near the bracket. Use the small blade to get 1/2" of exposed wire.

Install the adapter plate using the same screws from the OEM speakers. Two holes should fit correctly and the third one won't like so:



That's where i used the washer to bolt it on. You could also drill a new hole in the door. Your choice.

I used posi connectors to crimp the wires together since I'm not a big fan of soldering.

White with gray (positive), black with gold (negative).

Once everything is wired, the last thing is to set the speaker on the mount. You'll need to work it around in order to maximise the number of places you can screw. That's where I used 3/4" screws instead of the included ones because they were too long and hit the metal panel underneath.

Here is the finished product :



You can reinstall the door panel, reconnect the battery then test everything. Enjoy the difference!

As soon as I get the replacements for the P-52 I will continue the tutorial for the rear doors.
 

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Kia Rio S UB 2012
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nice write up, I just did my audio upgrade this weekend.

I started with replacing front speakers with Alpine SPR-60 however found that the stock headunit had nearly no power to drive these 100W rms speakers so I ended up getting a 5 channel amp and two more speakers for the rears and a sub. makes incredible difference in the sound quality. All up costed around $1k but so worth it. I probably should have sound proofed the doors as well but maybe I'll do it some other time.
 

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2013 Rio SX Hatchback
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Once you get those rears in let us know how the whole package sounds. I'd be interested to know if it is a significant difference in sound quality and if you are happy with the Sound Ordnance speakers.
 

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Kia Rio 5 SX UVO 2013
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Discussion Starter #6
nice write up, I just did my audio upgrade this weekend.

I started with replacing front speakers with Alpine SPR-60 however found that the stock headunit had nearly no power to drive these 100W rms speakers so I ended up getting a 5 channel amp and two more speakers for the rears and a sub. makes incredible difference in the sound quality. All up costed around $1k but so worth it. I probably should have sound proofed the doors as well but maybe I'll do it some other time.
I'd like to hear that! :)

My goal was more to get better sound quality at volumes where I can still speak without shouting; it's a cheap setup for under 100$ CAD but I find the upgrade more than worth it so far!

For people who want to keep the head unit without amping it up, things to remember : The radio can't output much more than 15-20 watts RMS per channel in the best case scenario, so buying speakers that can handle more than 50 watts RMS is not only a waste of money but you're also looking at subpar performance from your high end speakers. You're better off getting higher sensitivity (88+ db) and lower wattage speakers so you can exploit the low power output of the radio.
 

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Kia Rio '12 1.25l
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Hi KikkoMax

Nice writeup!

I wonder how you interface to the 130mm (5 1/4") "tube" going to the grille in the door trim?

The headunit output power is standard headunit output power. Those claiming 50W is not RMS (square wave) or in 2 ohm.

I think it's odd how people call them lousy OEM units. They are very effective and very linear, especially with the virtual sound settings on. It's hard to get such a linear and effective system with aftermarket units, if you don't have DSP power to make it linear.
 

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Kia Rio 5 SX UVO 2013
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Discussion Starter #8
Hi KikkoMax

Nice writeup!

I wonder how you interface to the 130mm (5 1/4") "tube" going to the grille in the door trim?

The headunit output power is standard headunit output power. Those claiming 50W is not RMS (square wave) or in 2 ohm.

I think it's odd how people call them lousy OEM units. They are very effective and very linear, especially with the virtual sound settings on. It's hard to get such a linear and effective system with aftermarket units, if you don't have DSP power to make it linear.
I didn't bother making an airtight connection to the tube in the door trim. Because of the adapter the speakers sit at pretty much the same height as the OEMs and the sound comes out more than loud enough for my tastes. Might be I'm losing a little on bass but to me the trouble to arrange something for 20$ speakers doesn't seem worth it.

I compared sound live since I still have the OEMs in the back and man they just don't sound the same. The lack of tweeters is probably what kills them, the higher mids / highs sound like crap to me compared to the P-65.

I don't remember seeing a virtual sound setting in the UVO radio? Where is it hidden? Ah I think you guys in Europe have the Arkamys system? We have the Microsoft UVO one... It might be why things sound different?

I also noticed that the pillar tweeter are really harsh on certain frequencies... Makes my ears bleed with certain songs so I will replace them with some Pioneer TS-T110 which are actually affordable. I'll take pictures and complete this thread when I get my hands on them ;)
 

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2012 Rio5 EX w Conv Pkg, Chestnut .......... 1997 Ford F-150
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KikkoMax .... Like the post!!! This is the first time a pic of the stock front speaker has been posted. I can see that sound quality would improve with even a less expensive aftermarket speakers.

Love that the SO P-65s gave you much better bass as this is something I desire. Am disappointed to hear that the overall sound level decreased however. The P-65s have a sensitivity rating of 88dB which I would think is higher than the stock speakers, and therefore should sound louder. Perhaps the better quality materials require more power to push them.

Omarko installed Alpine SPR-60s which have a sensitivity rating of 88dB also but have a power range of 2-100w RMS (vs 2-50w RMS for the SO P-65s). Omarko says that the UVO unamped could not push them.

How would you think Infinity Kappa 6.9CSs would do? They are power rated 2-90wRMS however they have sensitivity rating of 93dB. With a jump of 3dB you only need half the power to reach the same volume. With a 5dB increase I think I would achieve volume levels greater than the stock speakers.

Would like to hear comments as the Kappas cost $300 and I don't want to buy them and then be forced to add an amp.
 

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Kia Rio 5 SX UVO 2013
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Discussion Starter #10
KikkoMax .... Like the post!!! This is the first time a pic of the stock front speaker has been posted. I can see that sound quality would improve with even a less expensive aftermarket speakers.

Love that the SO P-65s gave you much better bass as this is something I desire. Am disappointed to hear that the overall sound level decreased however. The P-65s have a sensitivity rating of 88dB which I would think is higher than the stock speakers, and therefore should sound louder. Perhaps the better quality materials require more power to push them.

Omarko installed Alpine SPR-60s which have a sensitivity rating of 88dB also but have a power range of 2-100w RMS (vs 2-50w RMS for the SO P-65s). Omarko says that the UVO unamped could not push them.

How would you think Infinity Kappa 6.9CSs would do? They are power rated 2-90wRMS however they have sensitivity rating of 93dB. With a jump of 3dB you only need half the power to reach the same volume. With a 5dB increase I think I would achieve volume levels greater than the stock speakers.

Would like to hear comments as the Kappas cost $300 and I don't want to buy them and then be forced to add an amp.
Well it would make sense that the OEMs be higher than 88db since they're made to fit on a low power radio. On the speaker's back it's written 15W/25W which would probably mean something like 15W RMS. Sensitivity has no relation with quality in any case.

Even though I have to go to a higher volume to get the equivalent sound I find the P-65s to be too loud to have a conversation at half the maximum (20) on the radio so no worries for me there.

If you seriously think to invest 300$ for speakers, amp 'em up or else you're paying too much for nothing. Underpower high quality speakers and you will lose sound quality and even risk damaging them if you try to push them too hard with not enough wattage. Look it up!

Crutchfield does recommend to power speakers from 80% to 120% of their rated max RMS in order to get the most out of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Addind rear speakers and tweeters!

Alright people!

I finally got my replacement speakers and installed both the P-52s in the rear and Pioneer TS-T110 tweeters in the pillars. The overall sound now is so much nicer than with the OEMs! The only nitpick I can find is that the P-52s are really not as good for driving bass as the P-65s... but it's my car so I won't be sitting in the back too often ahahah :cool:

Other thing to consider the P-52s are lower sensitivity (86 vs 88db) so I had to balance the sound towards the rear by 3 on the UVO in order to make the volume equal everywhere. In any case I am pretty pleased with my setup!

So here is the tutorial with pictures!

For the rear speakers :

It's almost the same things as with the front doors (so I won't rewrite it ^_^), except there's a black plastic part you need to remove before taking the door panel screws off (located at the same spots as with the front) :


The arrow points to where I found it easier to get my screwdriver in to get a good leverage... Watch out the paint is *really* easy to scratch!

This is what the door looks like without the panel on :


Oh yes one last funny thing... KIA made the speaker cables in all different colors in the rear... So if I remember right on the left door you get red (+) and blue (-) and on the right door you get orange (+) and green (-).
 

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Kikko, thanks for your pics and explanations. I'll put it to good use. I'm awaiting delivery of 4 Kicker KS65 speakers and a Sound Ordnance amp. Hopefully that will kick up the sound, which is one of the few disappointments in this car.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Kikko, thanks for your pics and explanations. I'll put it to good use. I'm awaiting delivery of 4 Kicker KS65 speakers and a Sound Ordnance amp. Hopefully that will kick up the sound, which is one of the few disappointments in this car.
Should help tremendously!

I'll try to update the thread with the tweeters switch soon... It was a real challenge!
 

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Does anybody know if the USB port on the back of the head unit can be used in conjunction with the front USB port? I was thinking that since I'll have the head unit out anyway I would run the USB cable for my phone from the back of the unit. But I still want to be able to have the flash drive plugged in to the front port. If I have both plugged in will I be able to select which one to play music from?
 

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Kikko

Excellent post and documentation. You have helped make this conversion as stress free as possible for my upcoming weekend project. I won't need to make unscheduled runs to the hardware store or Radio Shack for parts as I will have everything I need ahead of time :)

I totally agree with your comment on Crutchfield - Their Customer Service Department rocks! They also have the best return policy in the business...

Thanks for this excellent post
 

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Ok, you can ignore the quoted post. Guess I was looking at a different model of UVO. Our UVO head units don't have a rear USB port.

I have now received my amp and speakers but the adapter brackets for the speakers were back ordered. I went ahead and installed the amp and left the stock speakers in for now. To be honest.....it sounds much worse. I hope this is because of the power handling of the speakers and that once I install the kickers the sound drastcally improves, cuz right now it sucks. The brackets should be here early this week so I should have the speakers installed by the end of the week.

Does anybody know if the USB port on the back of the head unit can be used in conjunction with the front USB port? I was thinking that since I'll have the head unit out anyway I would run the USB cable for my phone from the back of the unit. But I still want to be able to have the flash drive plugged in to the front port. If I have both plugged in will I be able to select which one to play music from?
 

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Very helpful post. Unfortunately improving sound quality is not as simple as just changing the speakers because of the anemic head unit. Connecting harder-to-drive speakers to a low-rent head unit can take things from bad to worse. It's suprising Kia skimps on the UVO audio so much, given the otherwise generous equipment. A $50 aftermarket head unit e.g., Dual or Sony Xplod would sound far better, even with the cheap stock speakers.

Adding an amplifier for the amplifier is not an optimal solution... the "right" way to get good-ish sound is via the $2350 premium package available on the SX (7" touchscreen with navigation etc. etc). Kia doesn't explicitly specify the audio upgrade, maybe so as not to reveal to non-critical listeners that the lower two systems sound so mediocre.

I'd say Kia better re-prioritize their equipment. Premium audio is popping up in lower-trim levels of the competition (I'm thinking of the 2013 Sonic) and it's very easy to hear the difference between tinny and decent.
 

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Premium audio is popping up in lower-trim levels of the competition (I'm thinking of the 2013 Sonic) and it's very easy to hear the difference between tinny and decent.
They must have upgraded from the 2012. I test drove the top trim 2012 Sonic and the sound system was only marginally better than the Rio.

And I doubt that Kia deliberately doesn't mention upgraded sound just to not draw attention to the stock sound system. I would suspect that it's not enough of an upgrade to call it premium. The speakers are likely the same. The only upgrade would be the difference in head unit between the stock and nav.
 

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To start off, open up your hood and disconnect the negative connection from battery (Bro tip : unlock all your doors before or else you won't be able to get into the car).
You don't need to disconnect the car battery. Just make sure the car's off.

I think I'm going to try 6.5" Infinity Reference (<$50/pair) or Kappa ($70/pair) speakers. They have 2 ohm resistance instead of 4. Amazon has lower prices than Crutchfield, though you don't get the accessories or phone tech support.
 
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