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Discussion Starter #1
Hi in order to get help from Jasper and Ron im doing a summary of my Kia Rio Ordeal:
I got the car from a friend "running", the car got a tranny leak and a shaky engine while Idle, but would run ok with Check Engine Light on.
  1. First thing adressed was the trans leak, we drop the tranny and replced the rubber retainer and casing. Leak Fixed.
  2. According to the seller and the boxes in the trunk he had already replced the MAF Sensor, IAC Valve and Coil Pack trying to figure out the shakyness.
  3. On the first scan we got codes for Cam Sensor, Crank Sensor and MAF Sensor. We replace Cam And Crank since the MAF was recently changed. The car was working about the same with the shakyness here and there but ran. On the way from the mechanic to my house(about 5 miles) the rough idling and poor accelaration was more severe till the car gave up. At the moment I thought it was out of gas, but the time it took me to get a can of gas and brought back the car started again so I drove it home.
  4. Next day I figure out that the car would run normally until is warm(half way of the Temp gauge) then it would fail. So I took it to radiator specialist that assure me that the car wasn't hot, just normal 180 Fh running temp that issue should be something else. Took it to the local Autozone get codes:
    P1505, P1508, P0103, P0335, P0741, P0717 Too many codes figured out that may have been false warnings, trigrered by something else.
  5. Next day I embarc on the task of checking wire harness and throtle body. Took it appart replaced gasket was worn and had a cooling line blocked.Checked PCV and Vacuum hose working! Checked wire harness for Split o broken wires, put it back together, found out that the MAF and IAC plugs could fit each other. Checked with Ron connected it correctly, checked the IAC is opening and Closing (Jasper the voltaje was not checked). Tried again the car would start right up when cold, but after 15 secs will start shaking and hessitating.
  6. Found a replacement for the coil plugs, installed them, checked and the same issues still
  7. Unplugged Battery to reset ECU, leave it for a day, got a Bluetooth scanner lend from a friend started the car after 15mins no Check Engine, wait 15 more nothing, noticed that while cold (say the first 5 mins after started) the car would shift into gear right up, but once warm and jittering it would shift unless accelerated. So took the car for a short drive till the check engine is on, drove about 3 miles the shaking and sputtering started, tried to continue but the car gave up, check engine on! let it rest for about 5 mins till I was able to started up again. I was able to drive home but shaking, trembling, no power what so ever about 5-10MPH was the fastest I could go. Got Home Scan it with the Torque App for Android this is what I get:
    P0300 Random Multiple Misfire
    P0325 Knock Sensor 1
    P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor 1​
I figure some videos could help a long way to determine the issue son Im including some so you can see first Hand:
This is what it looks at cold start:
http://vid172.photobucket.com/albums/w35/Michael_Oaks/Rio_ColdStart_zpsroejbsr8.mp4
http://vid172.photobucket.com/albums/w35/Michael_Oaks/Cold%20StartRPMs_zps5umwtirn.mp4
This is revving once it warms:
http://vid172.photobucket.com/albums/w35/Michael_Oaks/WarmRevs_zps5alypmtt.mp4
This is the exhaust while warm on idle:
http://vid172.photobucket.com/albums/w35/Michael_Oaks/WarmExaust_zpsbhdjciyu.mp4
And this is Just Crazy, I've found that once warm if you turn the Wheel it would accel a Little:
http://vid172.photobucket.com/albums/w35/Michael_Oaks/RevswhlTurns_zpsaw9gqawf.mp4

Hopefully this could help you helping me out...
 

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Let me say this quick: once it's warm and acting up use an in line spark tester to check each plug if it's getting spark. They're relatively cheap. $16 ish. It gets attached between the plug and wire. It will at least show you that if it's running rough if it's a spark problem. If it's not and the plugs fire normally during shitty rough running then it's related to timing or fuel. Air supply should be fine.
Also pull plugs and see how they're doing. Honestly it sounds electrical in nature.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Cold start doesn't sound right. So I think you have a problem even when cold but it just gets more noticeable when warm. The idle going up when you turn the wheel is considered normal. It's programming so the engine doesn't stall with sudden wheel movement (extra load caused by PS pump). Man I wish I could just say bam this is the problem but I cant. Get a spark tester, and also check the plugs to see how they're looking. Also see if/when the timing belt/chain was replaced or if it hasn't been.


Also lets talk about the codes:
P1505 = IAC valve problem
P1508 = IAC valve problem
P0103 = MAF sensor bad
P0335 = Crankshaft Position Sensor
P0741 = Torque Converter Stuck Off
P0717 = Tranny Speed Sensor

Have the battery and alternator tested (free services at most places) and also please check/clean/tighten all electrical grounds (engine to frame, alternator to engine battery to frame etc)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No idea. He disappeared. If you have the same problems just read here and see ...
Hey guys sorry I went off the radar for a while, mainly cause I couldn't time wise go on with the testing, took the car to a technician here is what he have done so far;
  1. checked the timing belt, timing was a bit off he fixed it
  2. Clean IAC and reset throttle adjustment needle
  3. those Two steps mostly took care of the rough idling and jitteriness.
  4. Since the failure after warming up or running for awhile continued, he tried exchanging the ECU from another of a junker, but the fail persisted
  5. He wondered why the car still reported the Crank Sensor error even though it was new, so he tried a used one and we test the car for about 15 miles without issues(most of them)
What still remains: the trans won't shift into gear when warm-hot, it acts like it's slipping but if you accel it would run fine once reaches 2nd gear.
 

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Let me say this: Once you get everything worked out DO NOT get rid of the car lol. It's like brand freaking new haha.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Let me say this: Once you get everything worked out DO NOT get rid of the car lol. It's like brand freaking new haha.
Actually tomorrow I'm picking it up, try to get the AC fix, settle registration next week and have someone look at the transmission problem, add all up and try to get back what I've invested in it money wise... I will not wander with it till something else stops working..
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This ordeal is far from over.... Yesterday I Was able to drove down to tha AC shop no problem, but when it was my turn to check the car it wouldn't start, engine turn tried to start but not rev. So I have to call someone pick me up, so I could go pickup the mechanic and brought him to the shop.
When arrive he tested the car, tried to get it scan but there were no codes registered. He check fuel pump ok!, then he tried disconnecting the MAF sensor and the car started. So he tells the MAF is blown for good and that I should leave it disconnected until I get a new one. I heard of couple times before of owners that use their Rios with the MAF disconnected. That was kind of a relief cause I wanted the car Ac checked and fix. So I leave the car at the shop 2 hours later they call me to said is ready I can pick it up. I get in the car AC feels good, try to drive it home but cannot get past 25mph or 2500rpm's cause the car would hog(drowns)**Sorry here I'm using literal translation of the terms we used in Spanish to describe this. The car would run at slow speed and will not shut down or give up like before, just drive below 25 mph. Now I got a code check engine, but have to wait till tomorrow to have check out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Turns out the code was for the MAF Sensor (P0102), order a new one from ebay, got it one week after put in did a test drive - Check engine off, I'd say about 90% normal, there still some loss of power noticeable. Well had my wife drove it for a 25 miles trip about 20 miles the check engine came on but still was driveable. So she reached her destination, park the car leave it for about 3hrs, came back the wouldn't stay on, it would start for a couple of seconds and stalls. Checked the code: P1166 HO2 Sensor Bank 1 not a severe enough problem for the car not to start. Leave it, went back today with coworker had a look at it try and start it right up without anything being done to it. It ran for about 5 mins then started stalling again. Check codes and still the same, clear the codes, but still same symptoms... Coworker took a look at it, check MAF and AIC connectors, swapped Fuel pump relay with AC relay just to see how it behave. The car started but stall after a while, then started right up and was able to run it around for a little. Wife took around to run errands... will see...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The car would run fine for short distances, but on the way back home the problems started back again, loss of power, Check Engine on. Now the codes are P0325- Knock sensor, P1529-Transmission Control Unit Request for MIL On , P0741- Torque Converter sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I will try to replce the Knock sensor before anything else, the symptoms I have read about the knock sensor are compatible with my issues. The issue is I dont know where it is located the knock sensor.Any Help with that?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
In my ordeal with my kia Rio I've been left to wonder if my issues could be related to a failing fuel pump:

Most definitively symptoms could be related to a failing fuel pump. Anyone else had them fail??
 

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I know that with my Rio, I am having a off and on issue where I don't see the tachometer go past 3000 rpm, drive thru it a couple times and then I get full rpm again, not that I try to go much past 3000. My dad thinks it might be my fuel filter. I know just before I bought it in June the timing belt was replaced after the previous driver let it break
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I know that with my Rio, I am having a off and on issue where I don't see the tachometer go past 3000 rpm, drive thru it a couple times and then I get full rpm again, not that I try to go much past 3000. My dad thinks it might be my fuel filter. I know just before I bought it in June the timing belt was replaced after the previous driver let it break
Derek make sure your timing belt is not off by a tooth, check out Ron's Sticky on timing belt! Mine was off 1 tooth on the intake side so that caused loos of power and hesitation.
 
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