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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2006, Kia Sedona, 210,000 miles (can't complain about the engine but all the other little stuff that went wrong has sucked).

Anyway, there is a loud "whirring" sound at start up and will continue but get quieter as the van is moving and warms up and will still continue until turned off.

It is on the serpentine belt side and since everything is over there kind of hard to pinpoint. But I am thinking it might be the alternator??? It's gotten really loud over the last 8 months or so.

Thoughts?
 

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Cerato S Hatch Auto
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Idler/tension pulley can be the cause of this sort of noise. Other things like alternator or water pump may not have lasted for 8 months. You can take the belt off on most engines and see what the bearings feel like when moved by hand. Good time to replace the belt when you find the offending part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hmmmm, sounds like something to look at to see.

As you know there isn't much as far as commercially available literature. Stupid question is which is which under there?
 

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It IS the Idler pulley, I ABSOLUTELY guarantee it. Just replaced mine at 197,000 miles. Dealership keeps them in stock as they are very common replacement items on the 3.8L engine in the Sedona and Sorento. Costs ~$40. Takes 10 minutes to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
UPDATE.

Finally got the idler pulley replaced and yes the bearings were shot.

BUT

Still loud whirring noise but now narrowed down without the idler pulley noise.

Excuse my ignorance but most of my experience is with rear wheel volvo's and Ford Trucks, and older ones at that.

It's the pulley at the very top, looks like it has a cover over it. It is wobbling (how I didn't notice it before I don't know).
kia pulley.jpg
I replaced the idler pulley, started it up and had the noise. I made sure the belt was back to the way it should be and started again and got the noise and saw this pulley wobbling away.

What is it?
 

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Power steering? Water pump?

Really, KIA, Volvo, Ford or whatever, there's only a few things that the serpentine belt is involved with (some or all of the following).

Crank pulley, Idler (tension) pulley, Water pump, Alternator, Power steering, Airconditioner.

Often there are one or two belts in addition to the serpentine. The various possibilities should be easily identified by the associated tubing etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
It's not the crank pulley, way too far up for that.

I replaced the idler pulley, so that's out. The tension pulley I had to manipulate to replace the idler so that's out. It's right at the top, and sits in what I guess is the "V" so if I had to guess I would say camshaft pulley, but wouldn't that be tied into the timing belt?

UPDATE: I think it's the water pump pulley, finally found a schematic for it. here is the link, sound about right?

http://http://www.kiapartsoverstock.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=1070526&modelYear=2006&ukey_model=16035&ukey_modelrange=0&ukey_make=1100
 

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Looks like it. Water pump pulley in these set-ups is often "dished" to put the belt over the bearings.

And you're right, camshaft and timing belts are well hidden inside the engine. Had a post where the guy reported that he could easily see the timing belt was OK; he was looking at the serpentine.
 

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You say you have a 2006 - the 2006 has a timing CHAIN. Anyway, a bad water pump could make that same noise, but I have never heard of one going bad on this engine - but like me, you have quite a lot of miles. You also say it gets quieter as the engine warms up, which if it were the water pump that would make sense. Noises are usually caused by too much clearance. Heat expands metal, which would make the clearance less, quieting the noise. The only pulleys that experience a good deal of heat fluctuation are the crank pulley (that's out, it has no bearings), power steering pump pulley, and water pump pulley. If the pitch doesn't change when turning the wheels, I'd go with it being a bad water pump. Luckily the water pump on this engine is rather simple to change, just make sure to install a new gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes on the timing chain, it's never been changed and I'm pretty sure a belt would have gone by now.

The water pump is original which would make sense why it would go bad by now with that many miles. I've only replaced water pumps with timing belt changes so sort of makes sense why it is the original.

Question though, can the water pump be replaced without touching the timing chain? Working on my Volvo right now (head replacement) and the timing belt needed to be removed when changing the water pump. Also, thoughts are just the pulley or replace the whole thing?

Thanks for your help guys, much appreciated.
 

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Just check that the pulley is not loose; probably not, since the problem has been going on for months and a loose pulley would have come right off by now. You'll need to replace the water pump and gasket, refitting the original pulley.

According to GregsKia, it's an easy job. I can't see why the timing chain should be involved, even on a Volvo.
 

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The water pump is part of the timing chain cover. The pulley comes off with 4 10mm bolts. The water pump is the big assembly labeled "A" in the diagram

Carefully note the location of the bolts on the pump when removing them. Some are 10mm, some are 12mm. They are of several different lengths, and you don't want to mix them up. You do NOT need to remove the timing chain cover. It is a nightmare to get back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Awesome, thanks for the picture. I've found out very difficult to find any literature on these things.

Nice that the timing chain doesn't need to be touched.

Wry - on my Volvo (it's a 1993 240), the water pump is buried under the timing belt, so removal is necessary, but the usual thought is to replace the water pump when you do the timing belt since it's all opened up anyway. My Honda is the same way, fortunately the Volvo is RWD so 10X easier to work on.

I'll let you all know how it goes, won't get to it until next weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
UPDATE:

Problem(s) solved.

Replaced the idle pulley which was shot, still noise. Took water pump off and the thing would spin wildly. Look at the tensioner pulley, spun it and boom, there is the sound. So I think it was a combination of the 3.

With 200,000+ miles, not that shocking?
 

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Very possibly! Glad it's fixed!
 

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UPDATE:

Replaced the idle pulley which was shot, still noise. Took water pump off and the thing would spin wildly. Look at the tensioner pulley, spun it and boom, there is the sound. So I think it was a combination of the 3.
Glad it's fixed. I'm surprised that there's a separate idler and tensioner pulley; on many cars they are the same pulley. One of my cars had a combined pulley with a large Hex boss (to fit the lug wrench), and this is how you changed the serpentine (worth practicing if you've never done it). Amazingly, my work truck at the time was from the same stable, but had an "upgraded" engine with a different-sized Hex boss.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Gregskia, do you know the torque specs on the water pump and pulleys by chance? Wish they could have used the same size bolts on that water pump, kinda stupid. Fortunately I didn't mix them up, used the new water pump and put them in the right holes.

Wry - the idler and tension pulley are separate and oddly enough, right next to each other. The tension pulley has that hex bolt you're talking about, breaker bar to release the tension and the belt slips right off, same thing to put the new one on. Only issue I have left is I need to get a torx socket (the one like a screwdriver) to go into the pulley to get it out. the idler is just a regular bolt. Might as well put a new belt on since it's off, some coolant and we'll see what happens.

Does sort of make sense though, none of that stuff has been changed and after 7 years and 200K miles, it might wear out. Honestly surprised it was that easy lol All the little stuff with this thing (headlights blowing, brakes chewed - calipers junk, A/C shot - needed recharging then made some god awful sound and lost all charge), we really started to hate it, but we'll keep it going since it's paid off and not costing much to run.
 

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The bolts with 12mm heads take 17 lb-ft. The bolts with 10mm heads take 8 lb-ft. The pulley bolts take 7 lb-ft.
I blow a set of headlights about every 6 months. I've replaced both front calipers on my EX. Never had any AC issues though.
 

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Those sort of bolts you can usually get away with tightening by feel. Need a low-range torque wrench if you want to be spot-on. Another 7 tears of trouble-free motoring awaits you.
 
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