[mrlewp87]

Sorry, yet another KIA horn post. I've searched the forums here, and in general for wiring diagrams. Problem; the Lo horn (passenger side- Right or Left? Is it anything under the hood that seems reversed?) .... has quit working. Thanks to my better half and a disagreement with a curb, a hold was created in the right front wheel-well. I was able to reach up and disconnect the horn. The Hi-note (driver side) works. Obviously the fuse is good, and the "secret' hidden relay must be working, also.
I bought 2 horns, and a new harness for 2 horns just to get the male plug that fits the original plug pulled off the bad horn. Today I was preparing to create new wiring using the 12V from the Lo horn leads to trigger a new relay, which would then provide the 12V to the new horns, with a separately fused power lead from the battery.
Good that I thought to test the original leads for power before going too far. You guessed it. No power from either lead when pressing the horn on the steering wheel. I have no interest in now checking the Lo-note horn to see if it actually works, using a jumper lead. I want to install these 2 new horns regardless, improvising the mounting. And I don't care what pitch the working horn is.
I suppose my only option now is too track down the wire from the module containing the relay, which leads to the working horn. Then find a convenient location to tap into. I want to use it trigger the new relay so that an excessive load isn't added to the existing horn circuits. The new horns and wiring call for a 16 amp fuse.
The 2 wires attached to the horn plug are Black, and I believ *solid Green. But I'm aware that often wiring from the brains under the hood pass thru various connectors. So, I'm wanting to locate a diagram showing the complete horn circuits.

 

[bobdec]

I vowed never to post my 2015 stuff for a 2016+ year model, as I have been wrong 50% of the time. So please take this as generic info. My relay for the horn(s) is in the engine room fuse box, also the horn relay can be activated by the BCM/smart junction box if you have the lock/unlock feature set to activate the horn (I do not).
That would bypass the steering wheel clock spring failing. Below is MY schematic the horn wires are green and black so at least something matches. Also note both horns use the same ground (on my car) make sure you verify voltage between black and green when testing to verify the ground..

 

[mrlewp87]

I vowed never to post my 2015 stuff for a 2016+ year model, as I have been wrong 50% of the time. So please take this as generic info. My relay for the horn(s) is in the engine room fuse box, also the horn relay can be activated by the BCM/smart junction box if you have the lock/unlock feature set to activate the horn (I do not).
That would bypass the steering wheel clock spring failing. Below is MY schematic the horn wires are green and black so at least something matches. Also note both horns use the same ground (on my car) make sure you verify voltage between black and green when testing to verify the ground..

View attachment 128091

Thanks, bobdec. I figured it would be solid green all the way to the fuse block/ power center thing(?) Now just finding hopefully the ONE solid green in that bundled mass of wires flowing from there! Not sure about yours, but the horn relay isn’t accessible on it’s own. Don’t know why the box cover diagram and anything online refers to the 15A fuse as a relay? I only see that In reference to the horn.

 

[ecanderson]

I had already replied on Sunday, but since the moderator wasn't happy with your lack of vehicle details, he nuked my reply as well as locking the thread. Not sure why he keeps making that everyone else's problem... should be a matter between him and the OP alone.

There are both a 15A fuse and relay in the same box. As for names, what you see is quite common ... they name the fuse after the device it protects. For other examples, the fuse for the Rear Defogger Relay, the Fuel Pump Relay, etc.

Here's what I posted for you, specific to 2016:

 

[mrlewp87]

Thanks very much for that. I was away from home when I replied to "bobdec". A few hours later it occurred to me that the wire connections are numbered. So even though his image was for a 2015, it might narrow my search for that solid green. Which I now know is one of a handful! Your image is of course more helpful, but I now need to know the pin-outs for that plug module. I was hesitant to try and pull it out this evening, because I believe your'e supposed to disconnect the battery hot cable?
As for my information, data, details, etc. etc. I've never had to jump so many hoops just to join a forum! Each time I added/ duplicated! the info asked for, it wasn't in the right place?? Or what? I have NOT had "Private" selected anywhere. And to arrive here tonight - I had to RESET my password! Don'tchoo love it when your'e told it's incorrect when you know it's correct, and the same that you've been using! So, I did what I often do in this situation. I entered the very SAME password used to create my account in the first place! And it worked!, so I don't need to make any changes.
Thanks again, to all. .... well,......

 

[ecanderson]

@mrlewp87
Are you looking for where the green wire connects back to the E/R block (fuse/relay) under the hood?

This shows the location of the two connectors on the E/R block. You'll be aiming for the B connector. I zoomed it up a bit and indicated the pin in question (35).

 

[mrlewp87]

ecanderson "Are you looking for where the green wire connects back to the E/R block (fuse/relay) under the hood?" (did my own quote there. using the Quote button forced including the images, unnecessarily.)
Yes, the green Horn wire. I tested at least 4 different green wires in the bundle and never got a hit when activating the 1 working horn. That position looks like one I tried because of it was easy to access. I used a probe light and a DMM. If one horn is blowing, then I should find 12 volts at that point. True? Or, should I be looking at the bundled wires underneath the fuse box? Are they the "outgoing", and the more visible top bundle "ingoing"? (in simple terms, I suppose?)

 

[ecanderson]

Yes, pin 35 (green wire) should go to +12 when the horn is activated at the steering wheel. The two connectors shown are underneath.

 

[mrlewp87]

ecanderson "Are you looking for where the green wire connects back to the E/R block (fuse/relay) under the hood?" (did my own quote there. using the Quote button forced including the images, unnecessarily.)
Yes, the green Horn wire. I tested at least 4 different green wires in the bundle and never got a hit when activating the 1 working horn. That position looks like one I tried because of it was easy to access. I used a probe light and a DMM. If one horn is blowing, then I should find 12 volts at that point. True? Or, should I be looking at the bundled wires underneath the fuse box? Are they the "outgoing", and the more visible top bundle "ingoing"? (in simple terms, I suppose?)

Ahh! Thank you very much. I thought it'd be a good point to clarify my intentions. I created a simple diagram to illustrate what I want to accomplish. I just thought it'd be easier to tap in at the fuse box area. But if I can isolate the Green horn lead in a harness, within reach, that'd work, too.

 

[mrlewp87]

In case anyone is just checking in, maybe I can spare the need to start at the beginning of this ongoing saga. Like "why" the new circuit depicted in my nifty sketch above. The Lo-note horn quit. I'm not about to attempt accessing it again. I tried removing the passenger side headlamp assembly, that was a nightmare. Thru a hole in the right-front wheel well I was able to pull the plug from that horn. Though I was home free from there.
As MY luck would have it, there was no voltage found from that plug when blowing the horn, driver-side. Seems odd that just a small part of the wiring harness would go bad. Same for the plug, which appears fine, wires firmly attached. Anyway, I had the idea to tap into the Green lead for the Hi-note (working) horn, and use it to work a *new relay. That way, only 1 horn and a relay coil will be on the original 2-horn circuit and fuse. The 2 new horns I want to add will be on a new, separately fused (16A min.) power run controlled by the new relay.
It all should have been relatively simple, but I'm finding it next to impossible to track the Green Hot wire thru all the harnesses. Image found online are of little help.
To "ecanderson"; earlier I tested that #35 green wire on the connector inside the fuse box. Still no Voltage when blowing the horn. Are you saying I would need to pull the whole box to access the plugs underneath? Surely there has to be somewhere I can tap that green hot lead to the horn.

 

[ecanderson]

Since one horn still works, we know that the horn button, fuse and relay are all working. The only way for that one horn to work is to have +12 on pin 35 each time you press the horn button. That's the wire that feeds BOTH horns.

So when you say "To "ecanderson"; earlier I tested that #35 green wire on the connector inside the fuse box. Still no Voltage when blowing the horn. Are you saying I would need to pull the whole box to access the plugs underneath? Surely there has to be somewhere I can tap that green hot lead to the horn.", I have to wonder more specifically how you 'tested' the wire hooked to pin 35 of the E/R-B connector.

 

[mrlewp87]

Used a probe light tool, although sketchy as to whether it was well "stuck" when I'd go to push the horn button. (I know, ask for help!) But also stuck the tip of a DMM probe into the pin which was a snug fit. It’s been determined I think, that I’m not testing the correct plug. I’m matching the position in the image, and a green wire. My last post was meant to verify (for myself) that it’s not the plug that’s in clear sight after removing the box lid. I must interpret what you (ecanderson) said earlier, that the plug I’m looking for is on the underside of the fuse box, correct?

 

[ecanderson]

I must interpret what you (ecanderson) said earlier, that the plug I’m looking for is on the underside of the fuse box, correct?

Well yes, of course. There AREN'T any wires topside, so unless you were underneath, I'm really not sure what you were measuring or where. Here's both the rear views shown together. Note that it was the 'REAR' (not 'FRONT') view shown above with the 2 connectors. We are talking about the same box, yes???

 

[mrlewp87]

Are you looking for where the green wire connects back to the E/R block (fuse/relay) under the hood?

To this, I answered Yes. It’s a “given” that the cover is removed, “of course”. And there IS a bundle of wires totally in view there. They rise up out of a large plug (module?) that resembles the shapes of both the E/R-A and the E/R-B shapes inside the larger REAR shape. The Front /Rear has thrown me, since the Fuse/Relay box is horizontally mounted. Top & Bottom is more relevant. And the box isn’t really rectangular. I’m adding an image.

 

[ecanderson]

Ah, I see the confusion now.
The front/rear are Kia's designations. Top/bottom might have been a better choice for them.
When I posted the Kia illustration that showed two connectors on the surface in question, with the requirement that the correct one be chosen, I had thought that would be clear enough.

 

[mrlewp87]

SUCCESS ! I've found 12V on the original horn circuit. Alas, right back where I started looking way back. At the plug I removed from the Lo-note horn. Can I be blamed for assuming the horn had failed? There's countless forum posts about horns failing, on possibly every KIA model car. So, from that, I assumed that the plug was good. The green and black wires were still firmly attached. Looking into the plug from a foot or so away, I could see the metallic clips that grab the pins in the male part. I could detect no corrosion or dirt.
After finding 0 volts testing the plug, I set about looking for somewhere along the harness to tap into the green horn power lead. Before carrying out that plan, I though of a way to test the wiring again at the Lo-note horn. This time I bypassed the plug. To refresh, I'm working through a hole in the right-side wheel well, created when the lil' lady struck a curb. Using a small round stone on a dremmle with extension cable, I opened a small hole in the green wire. Alligator clip lead to a multimeter plus port, the negative to ground. The meter positioned where I could see it when pressing the horn button. And finally got my 12V reading and a source for my new custom horn circuit and 2 new horns.

 

[ecanderson]

Will the new horns require so much current that the existing relay can't be used?

 

[mrlewp87]

Will the new horns require so much current that the existing relay can't be used?

The existing fuse is a 15 amp. I’m not disabling the Hi-not horn. As I am adding 2 new horns, I figured from early on that 3 horns might push the limits of the existing circuit. Based on the new horn specs they each draw about 6 amps, rated at 72W each. By using the 12V horn circuit to activate a new, 2nd relay I can isolate my additions.
The relay will demand much less current than the horn it’s replacing, and a new fused 12V line allows for a 3 horn blast! Could be an interesting tonal chord, perhaps an A maj7+9 pragmatic. 😜

 

[chuckwalla]

Curious to hear what the 3-horn setup will sound like. Maybe can you upload a video clip when you're done?