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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Now that the first Sorento Series is at an end its worth posting a sumary of measures that can be taken to reduce break downs andknown maintanence issues..Only Relates to V6 3.5 L

Crankshaft Bolt issues

Always fit a new crankshaft bolt when the old one is removed ($10) The design of the crankshaft pully is a bit suspect being on a taper rather than the more normal keyed parallel shaft. If excessive tension is placed on the aux belts particularly the outer one the leverage is such that the crank bolt may break. Loosen off the belt tensioner until the belt squeels and then tighten a little to stop it . Tell the dealer not to touch the belt tension on service and put some paint on the bolt so you can check they did not touch it. When fitting a new bolt alway run it into the tread fully to check it does not bind and when fitting it should be lubricated before torquing .

Inlet manifold butterfly issues

A small percentage of vehicle have had the inlet butterflys decend into the engine usually cyl 5 and 6. This has happended even after the recall has been done. Again a slight design fault ..missing out a one way valve in the vacuum line is at fault. The butterflys move slowly and flap in the inlet flow breaking the screws on 5/6. More likley on cars used in hilly areas or towing. Easiest way is to unplug the actuator . The plug is behind the battery( windscreen side) low down near the engine ..just unplug and valves do not move and hence cannot fatigue.

Drive line issue
Always have the prop shaft splines and propshaft joints greased on service ..its not in the schedule...this can avoid a clonk on stop start .

Death by water induction

Below the rear passenger door on the chassis is the evap canister. This is vented to inside the chassis but when in deep water or at a boat ramp water can be sucked in if the engine idles. Only solution is a length of 1/2 in hose from the inlet to a higher level ....run the hose along the chassis over the axle and up into the rear light cluster...this is the only access from below to a higher level ..no holes in B or C posts.

Cam belt change
Cam belt should be changed at the equivalent of 60 000 miles and the waterpump and tension rollers every second belt . Devise some means to lock the 4 cam drive wheels in positon before removeing the belt as one is very hard to keep in place with the engine at TDC...1 tooth out can buggger the engine as the valves may hit the pistons

There are other minor issues but all owners should be aware of the above so they can come to a decision on what action to take or not . your vehicle your choice.
 

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I pulled the intake manifold and removed the 6 plates, screws and cut the shaft off. Put a o ring on the one end of where the input shaft is to reseal it better. The old shaft bushings at 120,000 klm were worn out and the seal at vacuum acuator was leaking. The screws were loose and some ready to fall off. No and I repeat NO difference in power or performance is noticed. Maybe it's better. Took no more than 3 hours and $ 24.00 for new lower intake gasket. They sell new gasket set for $ 86.00 or gasket set and lower intake compleate with new plates, shaft, screws. Very hard to get lower allen bolts out ( 4 ) so just left it alone and not replace intake assembly.
 

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I have a question and it appears you you are the person to ask. I have a 2004 Kia Sorento, it has 77,000+ miles. I have heard by numerous people that shocks should be replaced at 50,000 miles. Is this the case and if so do you have a brand recommendation. The vehicle is not hammered, actually it has never seen off road driving. I have always found your advice to be spot on and you have saved me some grief and money by taking a proactive approach using your advice. Thank You Jim.V
 

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hey Jim Villano i'm not sure if "you you" ever pmed you or what have you about the shocks on your sorento. first off I would visually inspect your rear shocks and your front struts for leakage if there is any it will look like an oily substance coming from the lower half of the shock aswell as on the strut. If they are not leaking and if you do not feel a harsh ride quality from your vehicle i would wait til 100-120k before replacing them. finally i would recommend using kia shocks and struts, go to your local kia dealer get with the parts guy and buy through them. they will probably be a lil more expensive than the base brand from autozone but imo its better to run what kia built and designed specifically for their vehicles.
 

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I have a question on my 03 sorento. My 4 wheel and 4 wheel low light are on and the car will not shift into overdrive. I have repaced the tccm, it is located under the passenger side carpet. I still have the problem. Can ANYONE HELP?
 

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Re: Death By Water

I saw this post today as was concerned as I tow a boat. I immediately went out and looked for the evap cannister where is supposed to be. The only thing I found in the location described was a hose. I tried to follow the hose but it went WAY up in the wheel well. Can anyone tell me specifically where this cannister is?
 

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I saw this post today as was concerned as I tow a boat. I immediately went out and looked for the evap cannister where is supposed to be. The only thing I found in the location described was a hose. I tried to follow the hose but it went WAY up in the wheel well. Can anyone tell me specifically where this cannister is?
As the 2006 Sorento is three years after the release of the first gen, they may have added a longer evap line when they found this to be an issue. At least I would guess that to be true if the line is WAY up in the wheel well. You should be good :)
 

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Ok it looks like I'm going to be working on my own car. My resivor or Expansion tank needs to be replaced. Apparently KIA does not cover the TSB issued for it. Thankfully I noticed the leak! Got my 04 Sorento about 2 months ago. I was curious though, would my check engine light be on due to the expansion tank leak? Then I need to do a tune up & see what the heck is wrong w/ my AC.
 

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Inlet manifold butterfly issue.

What if they are worn out. Is there a way to remove them easily
Or is there a way to tell if they are worn out to the point they will come free. I have already disconnected the vacuum line.
 

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Inlet manifold butterfly issues

A previous poster (pistnbroke) posted about inlet manifold butterfly valves getting sucked in the intake from wearing out any body experience this issue. What is the solution?
 

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You need to remove the ICV that the plates are in. Not hard for a person with mechanical experience. Either remove the shaft and plug the holes on the ends or remove the plates and leave the shaft in. I would go the extra step and remove the shaft and plug the holes.
 

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I answered your other post on this subject. If you stick to one post it is easier to follow when people post an answer. I believe double posting is a no-no. I could be wrong.
 

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Valve sub assembly vaccum leak

I just bought a 2006 Kia Sorento ex 2 wheel drive. And it has a massive vaccum leak in the front of the sub valve assembly where the vaccum actuator valve connects to the lever that controls the valves. Is there anyway to replace the seal or do I have to replace the whole assembly? I included photos and circled the area that it’s leaking from.
 

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You need to remove the ICV that the plates are in. Not hard for a person with mechanical experience. Either remove the shaft and plug the holes on the ends or remove the plates and leave the shaft in. I would go the extra step and remove the shaft and plug the holes.




How would you plug the holes?
 

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I just bought a 2006 Kia Sorento ex 2 wheel drive. And it has a massive vaccum leak in the front of the sub valve assembly where the vaccum actuator valve connects to the lever that controls the valves. Is there anyway to replace the seal or do I have to replace the whole assembly? I included photos and circled the area that it’s leaking from.
Hi

Did you ever get the vacuum leak problem fixed, if so what did you do to fix it. I have the same problem with mine.
 

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The problem with a lot of members that post is that they either find a solution and don't come bac to let others know or they just drop off the forum.

This is what I posted for one member


Originally Posted by nstoolman1


You need to remove the ICV that the plates are in. Not hard for a person with mechanical experience. Either remove the shaft and plug the holes on the ends or remove the plates and leave the shaft in. I would go the extra step and remove the shaft and plug the holes.
 
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