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Agree w/ you both - re: ECM possible cause, however will stress that bad or incorrect relays will also cause a no-fire / no-start condition:

If you can, disconnect battery, pull each relay, take pics & post, reinstall relays, reconnect battery..

* There s/b a schematic on the side of the relay, if so please take a pic of that and post.. So we can confirm at least the correct relays are installed, Thanks.
 

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98 sportage 2.0 4WD
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check specifically the connection from the plugs coming out of the ECU.

has there been a sign of water damage on this car?
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
No signs of water damage. Here's some pics. Tried pull starting it again with the new plugs and all, same thing, just bogs down and backfires... I just don't understand why it ran perfectly when I drove it home and now its impossible to start it...
 

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A picture is worth a thousand words - Thanks for posting them.

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Judging by the condition of the engine compartment fuse box, it is apparent your Sporty was taken off-road, due to the accumlation of dirt/mud on the plastics and harnesses in the engine compartment,

*** The relays on your Sporty are the (original) stock relays. THEY ARE SUSPECT, AS IS THE SOCKETS IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT FUSE BOX. ***

1) The (Fuel Pump) relay 'appears' to be in good condition, the (MAIN) relay is coated with DIRT and OXIDATION due to water/mud intrusion.

2) The ADD and MAIN fuses in the Engine Compartment fuse box are MISSING THE PLASTIC SEAL CAPS - if you *did not* remove the seal caps, THOSE FUSES ARE SUSPECT ALSO.

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*** Highly recommend you purchase (2) new Relays, the ADD fuse, and the MAIN fuse. ***

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You will need to CLEAN UP the relay socket for the MAIN relay - best method I know is to start with a soft-bristled nylon brush to remove the material, and COMPRESSED AIR to blow it off/out of the fuse box assembly. DO NOT USE ANY WATER OR CLEANER TO REMOVE THE DIRT.

ONCE THE MATERIAL IS REMOVED, spray the relay socket with CRC-Brand MAF cleaner, let dry, and REPEAT, to get the crud out of the relay socket contacts.

If you haven't already, you will also need to clean the GROUND POINTS in the engine compartment: remove the battery and plastic battery tray, the ground tray is attached by (3) or (4) bolts: if the bolt hardware is rusted, REPLACE with new,

clean the ground tray connections: neg. battery cable, and motor ground stap, REPLACE the ground tray bolt with new if rusted,

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Try to get this cleaned up as much as possible, WITHOUT using water or disturbing the wiring harnesses any more than necessary as a first step,

Order new relays, purchase a new ACC and MAIN fuse..

*Time is limited today, will be off-line most of the afternoon, will check back this evening,

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
I'm not saying it wasnt offroaded since I dont know that but a big reason for the sand/dirt in the engine bay and fuse compartment could be due to thunderstorms, 70mph winds, and sand storms that its been through in the past few weeks, the cover for the fuse compartment was probably off of it. Nevertheless I agree all that needs to be cleaned that you mentioned and I will try and do that in the next few days...

I was looking at rock auto for the fuses and relays. I can find the fuel pump relay but alot of the others I can find the exact name match.. Whats the best place to find it all at one spot and also are the Fuel Pump relays and EGI Main relays the same thing?
 

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Yes, both the (Main EGI) and (Fuel Pump) relays -are the same- part #.

See this thread:

http://www.kia-forums.com/1g-1994-2002-sportage/83602-warm-re-start-issue-excessive-cranking.html

read and follow -all links- inside for pics and further info, see -post #5- ..

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You should be able to source the fuses at a local autoparts store - remove and bring the fuses with you, and a copy of / pic of the fuse box cover..

To remove the main (80) amp fuse, remove the battery, and pop open the plastic window on the reverse side of the fuse box, and unbolt the fuse..

*** Take one of the relays with you - BE SURE THE ELECTRICAL SCHEMATIC MATCHES any relay you purchase !!! ***

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You can also source replacement relays at a local KIA Dealer, eBay, Amazon.com - Standard Motor Products RY-752 Main Relay

*For the relay sockets, use CRC-Brand MAF cleaner, or a can of Electrical Contact Cleaner,

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I understand what you are saying about the weather..

But you have so much mud accumulation at the back of motor / wiring harness, I do suspect the Sporty was off-roaded -> the previous owner may have started having (electrical) issues w/ the Sporty -> you have inherited the current issue ...

*** All things start from the battery -> relays -> fuses --- let's get those Q/A'd / cleaned up, and replaced first.. Hoping we find & correct the issue -before- we get to the ECM..

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Okay guys sorry for the long period of time between updates, been busy on the farm sand fighting.

I got the relays and bad fuses replaced, made a new ground wire, the one that connects to the intake, and cleaned the grounds in the engine bay. Still nothing, just cranks but wont start so I guess next step is ECM?
 

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As a sanity check, let's make sure ignition is hooked up correctly..

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Ignition: make sure the short leads at the bottom of each coil pack are positioned over cylinders #4 (at back of motor) and #2 (2nd from the front),

long lead for coil pack on #4 goes to cylinder #1 ( 1/4 )
long lead for coil pack on #2 goes to cylinder #3 ( 2/3 )

* In the short HT leads ( the ones that fit over plugs #2 & #4 ), there should be a resistor, in-line, between the coil pack and the short HT lead: that resistor should measure 5k ohms (4.9-5.1) is the range.

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make sure all connectors are in-place on reassembly if removed (MAF, ECT, IAT)


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** I would really like to see if an ODBII scanner can communicate with the ECM -before- replacing it, and continuity checked on the wires between the Coil Pack connector <-> the ECM plug ..

But if you are confident the fuse issue is addressed, new correct relays are in-place, and you are getting good (+12v) voltage to the coil packs - you know your vehicle better than I, if you have the $$$ to do so,

order the replacement ECM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
So set my meter to ohms and ground the black meter lead and stick the red one into the ht lead to touch it to the resistor to get a reading? Do I need the ignition to be on to get a reading? The rest that you mentioned is as it should be with the car, I will have to go to Autozone to see if they will rent me a OBDII scanner and try it.
 

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Sorry, forgot about the multimeter thing, my bad.

No, to test the resistor, (remove) it from the HT lead, set the MM to Ohms, and touch the probes to either side of the resistor.

Then just re-install it back, between the coil pack and HT lead.

Test both resistors at the bottom of each coil pack / in each short HT lead.

The "long" wires connected to plugs #1 and #3 -do not- have a resistor installed in-line, the wire provides the resistance. AFAIK plug wire #1 should test to about 5k resistance, plug wire #3 about 3k resistance. Test the same way as the resistors above, with the wire off, probe on either side of the wire..

HTH & Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Hey everyone,

It's been awhile. Changed job's, moved, and fixing to move again since I last was on here. The Sportage has been sitting in a garage since then and I have not really attempted fixing it until just lately. Here is what I've done.

I ordered a new ECM and installed it, no difference in anything that I can tell, still not starting. So I thought I would buy an OBDII scanner to see if I could find a bad sensor or something cause I'm stumped. So I hooked one up to it and it said it had no codes and I scanned it multiple times.

When you connect the battery it'll automatically turn on some of the car and some of the lights on the dash with out putting the key in or turning on the car with the key, I don't know if that has something to do with it or not.

We are moving by the end of the month and my wife just got accepted into the nursing program so we have to buy another car and we are not planing to take the Kia with us when we move. So I need to get it fixed up so I can sell it asap so we have some more down payment money for a new car. If I cant get it running soon then I'll just have to sell it for a few hundred...

Thanks in advance.

God Bless Yall
 

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Kia Sportage 1995 2.0 Dohc
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Could it be so simple that the timing belt is a tooth off?



Look at the right side...
 

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97 sportage 06 forester XT
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If that screwdriver is confirming tdc the left cam should be on the I if in the stock position. The exhaust cam from this angle seems to be retarded a tooth but cant really tell from the picture. Today i adjusted my timing for the 6th time today, the marks on the crank seemed to line up with the screwdriver method pretty well, what i noticed was the start of the key was the begining of tdc and the width of the tooth the duration there.
 

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1999 Sportage A/T 4WD
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Hey everyone,

It's been awhile. Changed job's, moved, and fixing to move again since I last was on here. The Sportage has been sitting in a garage since then and I have not really attempted fixing it until just lately. Here is what I've done.

I ordered a new ECM and installed it, no difference in anything that I can tell, still not starting. So I thought I would buy an OBDII scanner to see if I could find a bad sensor or something cause I'm stumped. So I hooked one up to it and it said it had no codes and I scanned it multiple times.

When you connect the battery it'll automatically turn on some of the car and some of the lights on the dash with out putting the key in or turning on the car with the key, I don't know if that has something to do with it or not.

We are moving by the end of the month and my wife just got accepted into the nursing program so we have to buy another car and we are not planing to take the Kia with us when we move. So I need to get it fixed up so I can sell it asap so we have some more down payment money for a new car. If I cant get it running soon then I'll just have to sell it for a few hundred...

Thanks in advance.

God Bless Yall
Do you have strong blue spark at each spark plug?

If yes then in the engine compartment there is the diagnosis socket, next to the air filter housing, you can easily recognize it as there is the sign DIAGNOSIS on its cap. That socket has got three rows of terminals, one row has got four terminals, the other two rows have got eight terminals. The terminals numeration follows this scheme:

You have to connect the terminal number 01 (FUEL PUMP) and the terminal number 05 (B+) with a jumper wire; I use a telephone wire as jumper wire, but I don't know if over there telephone wire is the same as over here. If the location is enough quiet you can hear clearly the sound of the fuel pump working. With that jumper wire on, try to start your Sportage.
 

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1999 Sportage A/T 4WD
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A no start condition could also be caused by a restricted exaust system; you could try to remove the pre-cat oxygen sensor and try to start your Sportage in that condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
dj-vega and shapeshade, I have had the whole timing belt off with the covers off and it is timed to TDC on the furthest forward piston.

Strong blue spark.. no. I have gotten it to spark a little when trying to ground the spark plug ( still plugged into the coil lead of course ) but not something I would be willing to call strong and not very easy to get it to spark either with trying to ground it and I tried a good while.

Galf, the DIAGNOSTIC method you mentioned is very intriguing. So pretty much just bend a wire into a U shape and stick one end into "01" and the other end into "05" and then I can tell if it's my fuel pump that is bad if I don't hear it running?
 

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1999 Sportage A/T 4WD
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Galf, the DIAGNOSTIC method you mentioned is very intriguing. So pretty much just bend a wire into a U shape and stick one end into "01" and the other end into "05" and then I can tell if it's my fuel pump that is bad if I don't hear it running?
Yes, you can check your fuel pump with that method, although it is intended mainly to check the fuel pump relay. But it is just a diagnostic step, and I do not expect much from it, because you already tried to start your Sportage with starter spray and it did not work, so it should not be a fuel related issue.

Strong blue spark.. no. I have gotten it to spark a little when trying to ground the spark plug ( still plugged into the coil lead of course ) but not something I would be willing to call strong and not very easy to get it to spark either with trying to ground it and I tried a good while.
It can be difficult to define if a spark is strong blue, you could use this tool to obtain a more objective result.

You should also notice if a weak spark comes from the spark plug wire, because spark plug wires wear out after some time, say eight years; to test them you should check their resistance with a multimeter, but the way to measure the resistance depends if your multimeter has got an automatic resistance range setting or a manual one.

I would expect more from the exaust test.

Another possible no start cause can be bad valves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
Alrighty, got a chance to work on it some tonight. Tried the jumper wire on for the fuel pump and it worked. Soon as I jumped it you could hear a high pitched wine from the fuel pump, tired starting and no noticeable difference.

I then screwed out the o2 sensor on the exhaust manifold and tried starting with the same no start results.Also tried combining the jumper method along with the sensor being out and still no starting.

Attached is a picture of my multimeter so I'm hoping you can tell me what setting to use to test resistance. Soon as I know how to correctly set my multimeter to test the spark system I hope to troubleshoot it.

Thanks in advance and God Bless Yall!
 

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1999 Sportage A/T 4WD
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Your multimeter has got automatic resistance range set, so you have only to set it on the ohm symbol (Ω), then try to touch the two lead probes eachother and the visualization on the display should change to show 0.0 Ω. Once that you have checked that your multimeter is working as expected, measure the spark plug wires resistance.
 
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