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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I'm new to this forum. I've owned a 2000 sephia for about 2 years and I have to say I've learned a lot about cars since buying this thing. I've been really impressed with the responses in this forum so I thought I'd make a few inquiries myself.

I've got around 63k on the car right now. Around the 52k mile mark, I put in some fuel injector cleaner on a full tank of gas and almost immediately afterward, I had a bunch of starting problems that required a new fuel pump/filter and a thorough cleaning of the entire intake system. I know other people have had this problem, but does anyone know if it could have been caused by the cleaner? I was wondering in case I could use it again to make sure my injectors were all clean and squirting nicely. I live in phoenix, get around 22-28mpg overall in the summer, and I was wondering if anyone had better gas mileage with regular highway and city driving.

Also, my car is completely stock right now, I was wondering with what perf parts I could start with that could give my car better handling and power? Best bang for the buck is what I'm getting at, don't make nearly enough at my job to get it all. I did get some new tires, and they grip like crazy.

Third, my dipstick is curved at like a 30 degree angle, is that normal? i'm guessing it isn't, because it makes getting a decent reading insanely difficult. Anyone else have a stick like that?

Oh, and my stock AM/FM/Cassette player seems to have completely lost FM for some reason. AM and cassette works fine, but FM just gets static and in one case locks the radio up completely. Is there any way to fix that or should I just swap out the player?

Lastly, how hard is it to install a tach? My car's a base model AND a manual, and I'd really love to know what RPM i'm going at when I shift from 2nd to 3rd.

Didn't mean for the post to get this long. I think you guys are all fantastic. Let me know if you have any suggestions.

Cheers,
Sid
 

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im not sure what to tell you on the fuel injector cleaner, maybe it should have been used on a close to empty tank? always make sure you read the directions thouroghly before putting or using anything in or on your car. & if they dont seem to make sense, take it to auto-zone or something & get them to show you how to do it...they will, ive done it before.

i can tell you however that your dipstick should not be bent. how it got that way i dont know because they seem pretty sturdy to me, at least on the 1st gen models; get a new dipstick. (dealership?)

i got a new Aiwa cd player for my car for like 80 bucks from a shop on ebay. it has 180w, pre-amp, & manual & preset eq. it can play cdrs, mp3s & has a detachable face plate with case. there was also one with an input jack on the same site for about 40 bucks more. pretty good deal. at that price, its really not worth messing with a tape player/radio that doesnt get fm. you could probly get something decent at best but or circut city with free installation ;)

for handling, the only thing i can think of is maybe a strutbar? also a cold air intake will help your engine work more efficiently by keeping it cooler & thus getting the most out of its performance. they can sometimes even add horsepower if approached properly :)
here are some good sites for kia or general performance parts
http://www.kia-fx.com/
http://www.car-stuff.com/
http://www.autoparts.com/accessories/
that last one i know has tachometers....thats so wierd that you have a manual car without a tachometer! must be really annoying :haha:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I've got an Omnifi Car Player system just ready and willing to go into the car, as soon as I can get the dash off in this 110 degree heat! I'm definitely gonna get a new dipstick when I can, and I'm thinking the strut bar and CAI is definitely a good call. I saw some on kfx that looks pretty freaking sweet.

And yes, the no-tach is unbelievably aggravating because I really have no idea how close I am to redline, or even if I should shift to keep it in powerband, or downshift. Normally I don't care, it's a daily driver but it's incredibly annoying. The car I had before (1995 ford escort wagon) was the same way, stick with no tachometer. Maybe I should just give up and get a WRX, lol :)
 

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To Side, a Sephia redlines at 6,400 as best I know and it is hard but not impossible to overrev in the top two gears(4th and 5th). The lower two take some caution, without a tach. I have a manual shift SWephia and not tack either. I have been told that it would be better to install a whole "new" instrument cluster w/tach then messing around with mounting and all. I think I'll leave mine alone. As far a handling what kind of tires, you know type and all did you buy? I'm very interested in this as I am going to need some new ones and ttires are the first thing to improve handling. I now have Toyo Spectrums and they have seemed good. Oh, alloy wheels would improve handling and a strut tower brace would help(as you've heard). Let me know . speedster1
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A whole new instrument cluster sounds kind of expensive for someone still paying off his gargantuan college loans, but I'll look into it simply cause I don't want to rev any higher than 5k in most circumstances, unless I was doing autocross or something. My front bumper's "cosmetically challenged" and I want to tidy that up before I try to show it to anyone else in public.

As far as the tires go, my car's all stock and they're still on standard wheels, but I went from some semi-worn Goodyear precept tourings P185/65R-14 with wear rating 520+ and speed rating R to some Kumho Power Star 758's. Wear rating is a little lower, 440 or so and speed rating is S. I bet they're not that good in snow, but I live in arizona with flat, long highways.

There's still significant body lean, but now I can shimmy in an' out of tight freeway lanes with twice the nimbleness. I'm having trouble even spinning the wheels without a high rpm clutch drop, and I can take turns about 10 mph faster than with the old ones. Strut bar would take care of a lot of that as well as stiffer coil over springs is my guess.

Still, if you have the money, some 15-16 inch alloys and other tires are likely better, although I never expected kumho's to work so well. I've only had them for about 600 miles. I wonder now how well they'd be after about 10,000 miles of wear.
 
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