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Discussion Starter #1
Just as one problem is solved or fixed.................again................another one pops up.

Been on a road trip with 2 cars, one a 2006 Kia Sedona and the other one a Honda Accord.

Honda is on cruise control set at 75 mph. (70 mph limit thank you), Kia is following and sets cruise for same speed. Kia steadily falls back until it is 1/2 mile behind yet speedometer still says 75mph. Kia catches up to Honda (which is still at 75 mph) and Kia's speedometer says 95 mph, but is barely catching Honda.

Later on without the cruise on the Kia, Honda says 75 mph and Kia says 75 mph but then sometimes shows 85 mph or 60 mph.

Obviously, I think, there is something wrong with the speedometer/speed sensor? could also be a cruise control?

I want to fix it so the wife doesn't get speeding tickets, "um officer my speedometer said 65 when I was doing 95" isn't going to cut it.

Any thoughts?
 

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2006 Kia Sedona 1997 Land Rover Discovery
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Just because the speed limit is 70 does not mean you have to drive 70, or more.

When I drove truck we convoyed alot, exact same trucks, cruise set the same speed, lead truck always pulled away if you were to far back, second truck always crept up if you were to close.
Lots of things make this happen, wind resistance, horse power (even identical engines have different power based on engine wear, fuel quality etc.)
Tire wear effects the speedo.
Unless you were using a GPS to track your speed you really have only a estimate, speedo's are far from accurate.
If you use a OBDII scanner that reads live data you can plug it in and watch the speed reading that the ECU is getting and then compare that to the GPS and speedo.
If the ECU speed is "X" and the speedo is "Y" then it is a speedo problem.
If the ECU and GPS are off by more than 5mph then look into the speed sensor.
 

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2012 Sedona LX
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I don't know how old the Honda Accord is. What I do know is that my sister had a Honda Civic that had a messed up speedo. My mother also owned a Honda Civic that had a horribly inaccurate speedo. Unless you are checking both vehicles against a GPS, don't just assume the Kia is to blame.

Easiest fix, get a GPS for your Kia.

And I should hope that your wife could tell the difference between driving 65 vs 95. The world moves by a lot faster going 95.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Points taken, but with her cruise she not only slowed down with her speed showing 70 but cars in the slow lane were passing her, i.e. she was slowing down with her speed showing the same.

Anyway, another issue, and this could just be me being paranoid about this money trap. Driving on the highway today (I usually don't drive this thing), car is in drive and going around 60mph and tach is only showing 2000rpm , is that normal? Seems kinda low to me? Not wanting to compare to my Honda, which is a 2001 Accord 5 speed 4 cyl which is usually just under 3000rpm at about 65mph. Obviously it's a 4cyl vs 6cyl. Again I am probably just paranoid. Had a whirring sound fixed before (steering/rack issue, evidently no uncommon) but now have another whirring sound which can't seem to be located.
 

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2006 Kia Sedona 1997 Land Rover Discovery
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Dude, just sell it and buy a Odyssey, obviously you are comparing boxed wine to bottled wine, you will never be happy with this thing.
All cars run at different RPM at XXmph because of engine size, number of transmission gear's and the final drive ratio.
My Land Rover with a V8 and 4-speed auto runs at 2300RPM at 60mph, 2500 at 65.
My work van, a Ford E-350 with a V8, 4-speed auto runs at 1800RPM at 60mph.
You cannot compare apples to oranges.
Sell it, trade it in, its not a Honda.
 

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Cerato S Hatch Auto
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Anyway, another issue, and this could just be me being paranoid about this money trap. Driving on the highway today (I usually don't drive this thing), car is in drive and going around 60mph and tach is only showing 2000rpm , is that normal? Seems kinda low to me? Not wanting to compare to my Honda, which is a 2001 Accord 5 speed 4 cyl which is usually just under 3000rpm at about 65mph.

Those speed/RPM figures sound just about right for the types of vehicles.

You need to check the speedos using a GPS. (Yes, they are accurate). Once the speedo is calibrated, you can look up the transmission specs for your cars and calculate the corresponding RPM.

Measure the effective circumference of the driving wheels, calculate the rate of rotation at 60 MPH (it will be something like 800 RPM) and then multiply by Gear x Final drive. That will give you something like 800 x 0.8 x 3.9 = 2496 engine RPM in 5th gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Point taken on apples and oranges, and getting rid of this thing is high on the list but need to keep it running at the moment.

This thing has been a money pit from the start, it has 189K on it and we've had brake work averaging every 20K miles (chewed up pads to start, caliper bolts broke, chewed up more pads, caliper froze, chewed up more pads, you get the idea). Have replaced headlight bulbs usually twice a year (Kia claims there is no electrical issue and also claims I don't know how to put the bulbs in, yet the originals from the factory lasted 20K miles).

Thankfully I've changed the oil religiously and engine wise it hasn't been horrible but the little stuff just nags at you after awhile.

To top it all off, the A/C quit working (hopefully just needs recharging) yesterday (while on vacation).
 

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2009 Kia Sedona LX, 2008 Hyundai Sonata
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J

Unless you were using a GPS to track your speed you really have only a estimate, speedo's are far from accurate.
If you use a OBDII scanner that reads live data you can plug it in and watch the speed reading that the ECU is getting and then compare that to the GPS and speedo.
If the ECU speed is "X" and the speedo is "Y" then it is a speedo problem.
If the ECU and GPS are off by more than 5mph then look into the speed sensor.
I just happened to notice this thread and noticed this with a few of my vehicles. Both my Hyundai Sonata and Kia Sedona seem to have a speedomiter that is off by about 5 km/hr (Canadian Vehicles). The hyundai seems to be off by the "width of the needle".

I have and ODBII scanner that will turn my laptop into a diagnostic tool. I noticed when I am driving and have the needle centered on 60 km/hr, the the GPS and the ECM is showing 55-57 km/hr.

When I am on the highway and have the needle on 110km/hr, and set the cruise control, the GPS is showing 102 km/hr.

All that being said, what is an industry standard "margin of error" for the speedomiter?
 

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2006 Kia Sedona 1997 Land Rover Discovery
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I do not know what the allowed margin of error is for a speedo, I do know that almost none of them are 100% accurate.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Spike, I do the brakes myself.

First set from the factory lasted 37K and the front left ground into the rotor but the right was almost new.

Replaced rotors/pads, they lasted 10K miles, this time the right front froze or something and ground the pad down into the rotor, left front was nearly new.

Checked out master cylinder etc.., replaced fluid, bled brakes, new rotors and pads.

Pads lasted 17K, right front again, was stuck "shut" and ground the pad down. Rotors were still good pads replaced.

Rear pads went at 76K no big deal, rotors were good, replaced pads.

At 87K, both front and rear pads needed replacing, this time the rear pads lasted 10K while the front were almost 25K (getting better at least).

At 92K, the left front caliper mounting bolts just sheared off, replaced those on both sides.

At 117K, front pads again, but they lasted 30K so better and wearing was pretty even.

At 128, right front stuck again and ground down. New pads again.

At 150K front pads/rotors again, right front caliper the culprit again.

At 170K, both front calipers replaced along with brake lines, So far they've lasted 15K without any issues, yet, when I get back from vacation I'll check them out again.

Headlight bulbs:

originals lasted 11 months and 25K miles.

33K one blown replaced again

50K both blown replaced

75K one blown replaced

83K both blown replaced

138K blown replaced (made it more than 25K)

180K one blown both replaced.

Having to replace bulbs 7 times in 5 years is a bit much, dealer told me, when it was under warranty that there weren't any electrical issues just that I didn't know how to put the bulbs in. Bulbs I put in my other car, which are similar bulbs have lasted over 100K miles.

Power steering/rack basically blew out at 175K.

185K, this week, the A/C stopped working (of course the start of the current heat wave). Got the DIY kit, showed 0 on the gauge, put in 3 cans of R1234 and still only about 1/2 charge but works fine for now, $50 better than taking it in for service.

Overall, it's not a bad van, engine wise it's been pretty good, but all the little stuff has been annoying to say the least. We'll keep running it til it dies for good, it should get over 200K for sure, but all the little stuff with brakes/bulbs I wouldn't buy it again. We got it in Jan 2007 for $5K off as they were trying to get rid of the 2006 models. But when headlights blow when your wife is driving home from work in the dark it's a bit frustrating.

Currently the low wiper fluid light is on, with it being full, the TPS light is on for no reason, the air bag light is on, was checked out and is fine. The switch for leaving the lights on and having them turn off doesn't work, when you do turn the lights off, sometimes the rear parking lights will stay on.

It's just the annoying little stuff I never had to deal with on cars before.
 

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2006 Kia Sedona 1997 Land Rover Discovery
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I hear ya.
We just bough ours yesterday, it's a '06 with 139k.
We paid $5600 out the door, tax title and plates included, it books at $6700.
We spent all day working on it, I cleaned the engine, all new brake pads, wife cleaned the interior (dealer did a crap job, the original owners lived on a dirt road, dirt in every nook and cranny)
The TPMS light is on, but we dont care, tire PSI is good all the way around, I even checked the spare, its good to.

I have heard it is common for these to eat head lights, I think its the projector housing and the bulbs are running to hot.

I have also heard that the SRS light coming on is because of low battery voltage, meaning the battery is going bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I know the margin of error is probably in the +/- 5mph range. However, we made the last leg of our trip home today. I put my car on cruise at 70 mph, my wife put the Sedona on cruise at 70mph, within 5 minutes she was a good 1/2 mile behind, she sped up and speedo said almost 90 to catch up, while my cruise was still in at 70. She set her cruise to 70 again and again fell back even though here speedo is saying 70. I had her just follow me without cruise and with mine still set at 70 her speedo said 90 and she was following me without falling behind. We were in the right hand lane and with my cruise at 70 her speedo at 90 and people passing us. There is obvious something wrong with her speedo, would it be a sensor or the cluster itself?
 

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We had a similar problem when we brought our's home on Saturday.
My wife was following me, I was driving my Land Rover, cruise at 65.
She was in the van, set the cruise, fell behind.
I used a MPH app on my iPhone, speedo reads ~1.5mph fast.
I brought my TomTom home from work and installed it, it reads 2mph slower than the speedo.
I'm fine with that, I have no idea whats wrong with yours.

Here are a few problems we have had so far, cd player broken, took it out, there were 4 cd's stuck inside, took stereo apart, removed cd's, works great now.
Gear shift knob was loose, tightened 2 screws.
Door stays on front doors loose, tightened.
Throttle was touchy from a idle, cleaned throttle body, all's well now.
TPMS light is on, tire PSI is fine, dont care about the light.
Put new brake pads on all four corners, lifetime warranty, we will see how long they last.
Easiest brake job ever.

Some of the same problems as you, so we will see.
So far we love this van.
 
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