I realize there is probably a previous post but i can not find it. AC belt broke and timing belt is over due. Is there a tutorial, video or detailed instructions somewhere to help me get this done?? Thanks Kirk
2) Haynes or Chilton manual. This gives you step-by-step instructions as well as torque values for each fastener you'll be working with. You're saving a few hundred dollars doing the job yourself, so why not spend $30 on a book that will pay for itself the first time you use it.
We have 2 "new" Specs (2006 &2007).. My wife's is the 2007 and just rolled over 59k.
Knowing that the TB is the weak link in these cars and the weather is gonna get cold soon I bought from rockauto.com a Gates replacement (under $22 with shipping)... The kiatechinfo.com site has the instructions on how to... I used two lift jacks (one to hold the passenger side up when that wheel comes off) and the other to support the engine (one on the oil pan).
The only problems I found were loosening the alternator lower bolt to allow it to move in (go up from the bottom with an open end wrench) and the re-tensioning of the tensioner (go counter clockwise with the allen wrench to tighten). If you go clockwise it will tension but will make noise when the engine is started.
The power steering and water/alternator belt were OK but the AC belt was cracked and ready to go.. The original TB made by Bando was in near perfect condition no drying, cracking, or signs of impending failure but I replaced it anyway.
Removing the full motor mount, the power steering resovour, and the two clamps holding the hoses close to the engine's water pump pulley and the spark plugs (no fighting the compression) made the job MUCH easier... ( I also re-gapped the plugs while out to .044) .
I used the starter "bump" with a 22mm socket and a breaker bar against the frame.
(un-plug the coils to make sure the engine WILL NOT START). One "bump" on the starter and the crank bolt was loose.. The coil being unplugged DID set a CEL (check engine light) that I later cleared. (you can disconnect the battery for 1/2 an hour to clear). The timing marks on the crank pully are hard to find but are there.
The old timing belt came off and went on easily...just be sure to keep the marks on the cam and crank pulleys aligned properly. Keep the left side of the belt taught when installing...Do not try to start the engine UNTIL all engine parts are in place and the crank pulley bolt is tight and the tensioner is tight. This IS an INTERFERENCE type engine so DO IT RIGHT as you have ONE chance to do it. Hand crank the engine through two full revolutions (a lot easier with plugs out) and recheck the timing marks before re-installing the plugs and coil plug and starting the car.
Mine was a first time and I took it at a leasurely pace... I also bought some flat black spray paint at walleyworld ($1 a can) as when I have the wheels off (any time) I give the frame/springs/and undercarrage a good coating to make sure that rust will not eat my car's important suspension and frame. A little paint now means you will be able to unbolt parts (no rust) and work on the car MUCH easier later... It work for me!
Karen'c car is back together and quiet and with the exception of changing the anitfreeze ready for another OHIO winter.
If you are reading this in the future and need help I'm here as a moderator and will try to respond within 24hrs...
I just did the timing belt and water pump replacement on my car yesterday. (07 spectra 5, 2.0l engine, 105,000miles).
Mine was like yours, no signs of wear and tear at all. No cracking, no scratches, even the texture on the underside was perfectly in tact.
It was a tough job indeed for this non-mechanic who is trying to learn. Thank god for people who post step by step guides on youtube.
Everything appears successful but I have 2 questions for you.
1) Can you explain the starter motor bump method please? (I will probably never do this again on this car but I'd like to learn how you did it.)
2) How did you manage to tighten the crank bolt? I read it should be approx 125ft pounds with a torque wrench, however tightening this bolt will turn the engine over.
How did you apply that much torque? I'm worried that I haven't tightened my crank bolt enough.
The starter "bump" method...
Disconnect the coil primary wires (so car can't start)...
Put breaker bar on crank bolt and leave the handle wedged on the ground....
Bump the starter (1/2 second) by "trying to start the car" and check to see if the bolt has broken loose...
This works on the Spectras very well ...just be sure to reconnect the coil wires...
Harbor Freight has an electric impact wrench that you can buy for around $40 that also works well.
To tighten the bolt you can use the old rope in the cylinder trick...
Remove a spark plug and feed the rope into the cylinder via the spark plug hole and then turn the
crank bolt until the engine won't turn over any farther (the piston will stop because of the rope)...
torque the bolt and then remove the rope and reinstall the spark plug.
Glad to hear you replaced the TB... These engines can go 300k+ miles if properly maintained...
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My door lock only clicked, no lights or horn going off. My remote car starter also didn't work.
Most of the hail damage was to my hood which the auto body replaced.
If you lift up the hood, half way up the left side is a...
Has anyone else had difficulty identifying the correct motor mounts for the 2007 Spectra EX w/Automatic transmission?
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