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Light output of these original quad types are terrible. So if you need fog lights (I keep them on when ever there's dark, because I have night blindness), I'd put HID/LED bulbs inside those original ones, but if it's just for looks, then quads are nice. I woudn't pay extra for the original quads, but buy cheap Chinece ones, because there's a chance thay have better light output. As the light output is so weak, I decided to improme my HID headlights and ordered 55W upgrade for them. This way I have enough low beam output even with the crappy quads.



With quad conversion you need light units, covers, electric plugs to fit quad units and new smaller airducts to go round them. They are vertically adjustable.
A while ago I was looking for the quad fog lights and only found OEM. Do you have a link for the Chinese ones? Thanks in advance
 

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I hope the Hikari's work great for you.

I'm not totally pleased with the Katana's that I'm using. When I turn the high beams on, and the visors go up and the projectors are in full beam, I am absolutely impressed by the light output. But with high beams off, whatever is going on within the projector assembly leads to a light that is not ideal. There is patchiness to it and shadows of things within the projector.

Anyway, is there a way to adjust the left-right angle of Kia projector? I removed that white cap for an adjustment point that's on the headlight assembly, but turning it clockwise or counterclockwise doesn't seem to do anything. I'm trying to get the beams of the head lights aimed inward toward the center. They are currently shooting straight ahead, which can blind people even if it's aiming low, and it's not ideal.

Thanks.
 

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A while ago I was looking for the quad fog lights and only found OEM. Do you have a link for the Chinese ones? Thanks in advance
They are all over Aliexpress, Ebay and Amazon, but I think they are all just DRL lights. If you want a working fog light and the looks of quad type, I think OEM is the only way to go.

Maybe later, after sorting out my car powerwise, I'll try to find cheap used quad one and tear it a part to see if those leds could be upgraded something brighter. I think the basic problem with quad led is heat dissipation and that's why thay had to kept it dim.
 

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I hope the Hikari's work great for you.

I'm not totally pleased with the Katana's that I'm using. When I turn the high beams on, and the visors go up and the projectors are in full beam, I am absolutely impressed by the light output. But with high beams off, whatever is going on within the projector assembly leads to a light that is not ideal. There is patchiness to it and shadows of things within the projector.

Anyway, is there a way to adjust the left-right angle of Kia projector? I removed that white cap for an adjustment point that's on the headlight assembly, but turning it clockwise or counterclockwise doesn't seem to do anything. I'm trying to get the beams of the head lights aimed inward toward the center. They are currently shooting straight ahead, which can blind people even if it's aiming low, and it's not ideal.

Thanks.
Thank you! While I'm still in the process of "testing" these led bulbs, I'm pretty satisfied with the results so far, as you stated, on high beam these are monsters, showing a wide and far margin of light. On the low beam side in trying to get more light out of them. They throw a wide and consistent light output, but I have to adjust the angle up a little, which I haven't done still. I'm still more concerned about heat dissipation. I went on a 1 hour trip and when I got back I touched the rear of the dust caps and they were pretty hot. While it wasn't too hot that you couldn't let your finger there I'm still worried about melting that dust cap. Do you guys think that could be a possibility? Still haven't found recessed ones that could fit.
 

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They are all over Aliexpress, Ebay and Amazon, but I think they are all just DRL lights. If you want a working fog light and the looks of quad type, I think OEM is the only way to go.



Maybe later, after sorting out my car powerwise, I'll try to find cheap used quad one and tear it a part to see if those leds could be upgraded something brighter. I think the basic problem with quad led is heat dissipation and that's why thay had to kept it dim.
I have to check around then, last time I looked at Amazon search results were pretty messed up, will do later, thx for replying!
 

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I've tried all the major brand LED headlights. They all scatter light and have tons of dead spots. It was soo bad that I decided to go back to the halogen bulbs and just deal with it. The attached pic was the best of the worst... the Diode Dynamics SL1. These housing aren't designed for LED or HID. I have confirmed with a KIA engineer that the reflector bowl in HID projector headlight housings are different.
 

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Recently traded my 2012 Sorento 2.4 for a new 2019 Sportage EX. Super happy with how refined the Sportage feels. As for the headlights, the original 9005 halogens had pretty good throw, but not much flood near the car. I found some upgraded halogens on Amazon, Night Eagle by Voltage Automotive at only $17 for a 4-pack. They are advertised at being 40 percent brighter and that seems accurate. But I still wanted a smoother beam pattern so I tried a couple brands of leds, including the higher end hikari units, which did not have good throw, but then stumbled on Amazons ECCPP led bulbs which were only $16/pair and I am happy with the throw and the flood. They have a clean cutoff in my projector housings so I dont worry about glare. These bulbs have a full metal base and bayonet, and come the driver/filter screwed on to the base but is removable to make the base shorter. It is still kept it wired inline to allow it to fit with the original dust caps. No errors or flickering. I would also mention that the ECCPP bulbs are stated at 6000K temp, but really seem to be closer to 5000K and they do a good job of showing contrast on the road. I quickly put the same brand of H11 in my Forte5 SX and they work great there too.
 

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Upgraded my original HIDs (35W D3S) to 55W D3S with Sukioto Kit. Last weekend I did a 1250km roundtrip mostly night time, wet/fog. I have to say I'm really pleased with my low beams now. I have a 200W high beam led bar hidden underneath bumper so It's like sitting in office with them on. My led bar is flood type so range is a little short for my liking, so I might add some 30-50W pencil type spot leds behind grille to get more range on the road. I don't want to overdo it as I want to use auto low/hi feature without blinding oncoming trafic.

Left original 35W, right upgraded 55W. The biggest difference can be seen within those red frames I put there as that is the light that really counts on the road. I used yellow paper against the wall, so light colour is actually very white.


 

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@shadowmaker -- Normally, manufacturers don't make openings that are not functional. On my '17 EX, I don't have the opening in the bumper where you have the LED bar. I'm wondering whether that just exists in Europe, or others have it here. That said, when you placed the LED bar there, it is possible that you lost some functionality like airflow to a part of the engine, etc.? Generally, I don't like to cover up openings placed by engineers. It would be interesting to find out why Kia placed that opening in the bumper and whether it can possibly cause problems if covered up. Does it exist on all models, or only diesels? If only diesels, I'd worry about covering it up even more....
 

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@shadowmaker -- Normally, manufacturers don't make openings that are not functional. On my '17 EX, I don't have the opening in the bumper where you have the LED bar. I'm wondering whether that just exists in Europe, or others have it here. That said, when you placed the LED bar there, it is possible that you lost some functionality like airflow to a part of the engine, etc.? Generally, I don't like to cover up openings placed by engineers. It would be interesting to find out why Kia placed that opening in the bumper and whether it can possibly cause problems if covered up. Does it exist on all models, or only diesels? If only diesels, I'd worry about covering it up even more....
I think you have way too much faith for engineers. You have to remember that these machines have to work in Sahara's extreme heat too and be capable of towing some trailer there also. Then there's design department, who overcome engineering minimums for their like. And like you said there is a bumper type that has much smaller lower grill, no middle grill and same size upper grill than mine.I think that's a US thing (=petrol engines) as I don't see that design over here. Diesels run much cooler than petrol engines (at least factory engines, and that's why diesels have additional heaters for winter), so I think I'm safe even I try to double my engine output (was 136hp, now 222hp and aiming for ~270hp). I think there would be some air guides/reflectors underneath the bumper if cooling capacity would be an issue. Now there's none and pressurized air escapes radiator/intercooler quite easily. It should be easy to improve original cooling system if wanted.
 

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I think you have way too much faith for engineers. You have to remember that these machines have to work in Sahara's extreme heat too and be capable of towing some trailer there also. Then there's design department, who overcome engineering minimums for their like. And like you said there is a bumper type that has much smaller lower grill, no middle grill and same size upper grill than mine.I think that's a US thing (=petrol engines) as I don't see that design over here. Diesels run much cooler than petrol engines (at least factory engines, and that's why diesels have additional heaters for winter), so I think I'm safe even I try to double my engine output (was 136hp, now 222hp and aiming for ~270hp). I think there would be some air guides/reflectors underneath the bumper if cooling capacity would be an issue. Now there's none and pressurized air escapes radiator/intercooler quite easily. It should be easy to improve original cooling system if wanted.
Actually, I was wrong about my car (I should have looked first -- senility, I guess) -- I do have a slot there. The point is that we don't know about why that slot is in the bumper. Is it for engineering or design? It is a smaller slot, so I would agree the impact should be small. However, why take the risk when some of us (like me), live in a "Sahara like" place? That said, again, the risk is probably very small. I just thought I'd bring up that issue....
 

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I think you have way too much faith for engineers. You have to remember that these machines have to work in Sahara's extreme heat too and be capable of towing some trailer there also. Then there's design department, who overcome engineering minimums for their like. And like you said there is a bumper type that has much smaller lower grill, no middle grill and same size upper grill than mine.I think that's a US thing (=petrol engines) as I don't see that design over here. Diesels run much cooler than petrol engines (at least factory engines, and that's why diesels have additional heaters for winter), so I think I'm safe even I try to double my engine output (was 136hp, now 222hp and aiming for ~270hp). I think there would be some air guides/reflectors underneath the bumper if cooling capacity would be an issue. Now there's none and pressurized air escapes radiator/intercooler quite easily. It should be easy to improve original cooling system if wanted.
Typically diesels run hotter that gas engines as they are operating under a much higher compression. The reason for the additional engine heaters is to keep the more viscous diesel fuel from gelling in the winter.
 

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Typically diesels run hotter that gas engines as they are operating under a much higher compression. The reason for the additional engine heaters is to keep the more viscous diesel fuel from gelling in the winter.
While diesels running hotter is true inside combustion chamber, it's not true when you are talking about engine temps (overall engine waste energy that needs cooling capasity). Diesel can convert that combustion heat much efficiently to work and thus run cooler than petrol. This can be easily determined by measuring exhaust gas temp, which in modern diesel is around 600-800 Celcius WOT and 900-950 Celcius WOT petrol. Furthermore compression difference in modern engines has gone down (Sportage 2.4L 11.3:1, Sportage 2.0crdi 15.7:1) and while this is bad for diesel fuel consumption, it's good for NOx emissions. Still even with higher compression you get better efficiency out of fuel needed, so engine temps stay down even compression temps go up. My higly modified 23 year old 2.5TDI engine has 22:1 compression and exhaust temps are up to 1150 Celcius, but it has nothing to do with commercially sold diesel engines and has adequate cooling capacity to deal with higher engine temps.

According to your signature I seem to live ~2500km north from you and I don't know what experience you have from modern diesel passenger car, but the additional engine heaters aren't for gel preventing. There's electrical heater in fuel filter housing for that, but it's working only when the car is running. For gel preventing we have different type diesel for winter time, which has -35 to -40 Celcius gelling point. After that you need warm garage or some other mean to keep the fuel in tank warm enough to start. When the engine is running excess diesel from the engine circulate back to fuel tank and after getting warmed in the engine compartment (filter heater and being compressed to 1800-2200bar in common rail pump) it prevents fuel gelling even in the tank. Auxillary heaters (electric or fuel operated) are there to make enough heat for cabin while driving, because the engine itself makes too little waste energy to do that. Petrols don't need it.

Ordered some cheap led bars with pencil spot light pattern. Let's see if I can get more light range on the road ahead with them. Not sure though as they were really cheap...
 
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