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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Sportagers, I'm still having issues with my 95 sportage SOHC 4x4.
I had a problem with what seemed to be a short in the ignition wire. the fuse in the engine compartment would blow as soon as I would turn the key to on position.. I wiggled the wiring harness and the short went away.. Started the car and it run ok.. The next morning went out to see if my luck was holding..
It was not.. Run very ruff.. And I noticed the tach was not working now.. Later in the day I decided to try it again.. With in a few minutes I had a white smoke rolling out from under the hood.. I found one half of the coil had melted.. The center wire in the 3 wire plug is also showing signs of getting hot.. I ordered a new coil... My worry or question is : Why did the coil have a melt down ?? Is that anything that has ever happened to any of you ?? Did the coil melting down or shorting out cause the center wire to heat up ?? Or was/is the problem Up stream from the coil and that caused it to malfunction ? Any help is muchly appreciated..

Thank you..
Clancy
 

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Clancy,

Your coil melted because you have a (wiring) short in the ignition circuit, caused by abrasion or degrading of the insulation jacket -> bare metal contact to (ground) or (another hot lead) -- as you stated,

you need to back-trace the wiring, on the affected coil to it's source to determine (where) the short circuit is located, repair & correct,

you need to remove and (physically inspect) the ignition switch, -if- your statement above refers to the ignition switch harness (in the steering column) that you "wiggled" to get the vehicle to run previous,

if not, you need to check -that- harness, in conjunction with back-tracing from the ignition coil to the passenger cabin also,

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This is just a guess, but the Tachometer signal is derived from Coil Pack #1 on the Sporty here, so I would be scrutinizing -all wiring- from the coil packs -> behind the block -> to the main harness -> to the ECM first, visual inspection, as well as continuity testing, battery out, with a DVOM, repair, then voltage testing with a DVOM (digital voltage/ohm multimeter) IN ADDITION to (whichever) harness you wiggled to get the vehicle running ...


** Clean all grounds, (battery, battery -> frame, battery -> motor), verify good voltage at motor and passenger cabin AFTER REPAIR, BEFORE VOLTAGE TESTING,
Establish reference voltage directly at battery, test to ensure you have close to reference voltage at coil pack lead, and in passenger cabin fuse panel..

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Highly recommend signing up at the kiatechinfo website (see my sig), using Internet Explorer, (see site requirements on main page) so you can access/view/print the ETM schematics for the MFI control system for your Sporty while back-tracing the issue..

GottaCruise
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hello GottaCruise, Thank you for responding to my post. You confirmed my worry that the issue is up stream from the coil.. I will be tracing out that entire ignition circuit.. The Ignition switch its self has been a suspect since this fuse blowing episode started..
I've never had a coil behave like this.. Did I mention I " hate wiring" in general... I am signed up at kia tech info.. an excellent site. The harness I wiggled is at the back of the engine.. It runs across the firewall over to the Oxy sensor , OBD, and around to the Iggy coil. One piece coil on this critter.. Coils " looks like 2 stacked together" and the ports for the plug wires are all one piece.. never seen anything like it.. The dohc look like they have 2 seperate coils.. So...ok.. thanks much again for the confirmation..

Clancy...
 

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Hi Clancy,

Yes, your Sporty sounds a bit different than the animal I have here..

But the coil pack circuit should be similar - if the coil melted without blowing a fuse, then I suspect you have a (coil trigger wire) issue: the coils are fired by the ECM by (grounding) the coil trigger wire to complete the circuit -> firing the coil to generate spark.

Testing the coil trigger wires at the ECM harness plug for continuity against (frame) ground would be one of the first checks I'd make:

if a given coil trigger wire has continuity to (frame ground), that could very well be the reason why the coil smoked/fried, those coil trigger wires should be insulated from ground & pulsed directly by the ECM only. (*If any were contacting frame ground, the coil would be firing continuously..)

re: Ignition switch, can only state when tracing the electrical problems on the 1997 Ford Aspire (Kia Avella) here after receiving the vehicle, "condition unknown" (it was pretty bad when we got it) I finally pulled the switch because there was literally nothing else left to check..

And found the switch detent plates were scorched after pulling off the phenolic cap, causing the problems I was having.. The ignition switch guts from the 2001 parts Sporty here have been in the Aspire for 2 years now. :)

A cracked / worn detent tab on the switch plate would cause incomplete contact -> the same result, so it may be worth the 30 minutes or so it takes to pull the steering column plastics / the driver's knee airbag to expose the switch and wiring to check..

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If you need to remove the rear engine harness to inspect, best advice I can give is to use masking/painters tape, labeling each connector as removed, and photographing / documenting each connector and sensor it was removed from with a digital camera, so you have record of -> multiple resources to check when reinstalling the harness..


Hopefully the issue is apparent & an easy fix, but if have questions, let us know, we'll try to help.


GottaCruise
 
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