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Discussion Starter #1
Bought a new belt since the one on my car is starting to squeal and I think its the original (101K)

Had a look yesterday afternoon, not much room to play there.

Anyone replace one of these and know what to do? I am assuming there is a spring loaded tensioner somewhere (looks like one under the idler behind the power steering pump)

That or maybe its old style and tensioned by the power steering pump? I think the spring load tension is more likely since its such a new car.

I found a diagram of how it should be routed, but no instructions.

Anyone know the way to go about this? Tips and tricks?

I think having it on stands with the lower splash shield removed should help a bit when it comes to routing.

Thanks for any info :)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Any ideas toward this? I plan to try changing it on wednesday, it will be my only day off with half decent weather.

Thx :)
 

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I know it is not integrated. There is a tensioner. Trying to recall....
 

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Hi,

I found this on Kia Global Information System.



From reading the instructions it looks like you install round the crank first and then anti-clockwise around the rest of the pulleys. That would make the tensioner the small pulley above the crank. Its not very clear but I hope it helps.

Stu :)
 

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cllo, that is the serpentine belt. You got one of those. ;)

Chains are not bullet proof either. Plastic/nylon tensioners wear. Nylon covered gears wear. The longevity of the chain is assured however after 100k things can go wrong. Much past say 125k the chain should be replaced.
 

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where is the auto tensioning arm? I hit a major bump on our grid and knocked my belt off one notch off my back pulley, i think its the water pump. Its on the back of the engine and the top one. Anyhow Im trying to get it back over. Need help, dont want to take it in for that.
 

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To do ours...

I took the front Right wheel of, and took the plastic shield from inside the wheel well out...that made it MUCH easier to see the lower part of the pulleys to get it around where it had to go...

Still tough...had to get it in place (roughly)...leave it off the upper/forward pulley....push the tensioner arm back until you can slip it around that last pulley.

Helps to have a spare set of hands and someone to curse at when it keeps slipping off...

AFARR
 

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I did mine on Saturday, what a PIA. I have 2 different serpentine tools and neither would work as the 17mm on the idler wouldn't accept the crow’s foot and the socket was too long. Guess I needed a 17mm specific. Used a long box and ran into problems. When placed on the right side of the motor mount and when enough travel was gained to remove the belt, the wrench would come down on the A/C line. So moved to the other side of the mount, easy to get the belt off, but the wrench then stopped against the mount. Was able to remove the belt after doing some moving around with the wrench, and then installed the new belt. Didn't need to remove the front wheel or inspection cover, just ran my hand under to make certain the belt was on the crank pulley correctly. That is one long belt.
 

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cllo, that is the serpentine belt. You got one of those. ;)

Chains are not bullet proof either. Plastic/nylon tensioners wear. Nylon covered gears wear. The longevity of the chain is assured however after 100k things can go wrong. Much past say 125k the chain should be replaced.
I had over 150 K on my Chrysler mini van and never replaced a timing chain,or belt....whichever it had.
 

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where did you find the routing diagram for the serpentine belt?? I partially remove mine, made a diagram, and now it just barely will not fit back on. I need to confirm I have the correct routing. thanks
 

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2006 Kia Optima 2.4L Serpentine Belt Replacement

I want to thank the forum and previous contributors for giving me some insight. I looked on here last night while working on my nephew's car.

I thought we were going to have to remove the power steering hose and the upper motor mount but that was NOT NECESSARY.

You will likely need one other pair of hands to do the work, though. Gloves will help, but just be ready to scratch your hands up in the tight spaces and sharp edges everywhere.

1st, we made sure to apply the parking brake and chock the rear wheels. We jacked up the front end and used jack stands for support.

Remove the passenger side wheel and small plastic cowling between the wheel well and engine.

The previous belt had already come off and so we just had to clean out the shreds that were still tangled up.

Using the schematic, we routed the new belt around the lower pulleys and left the slack to be wrapped around the top pulley which was easier to access than the tension pulley.

The tension pulley has a 17mm bolt head that moves counterclockwise to relieve tension.

This is where you will likely need another set of hands. While I was pulling the tension pulley back, my dad used some screw drivers to ease the belt over onto the top pulley, while slowly turning it clockwise. The belt slid off and right into place.

Then just replace the cowling and wheel. That was it.

(I think that was everything, but you smarter guys feel free to let me know and I'll edit it to be more helpful of a post.)
 

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