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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone! I hope someone can help me here. I recently did a headlight assembly swap on my 2015 Kia Sorento LX for headlights that came with HID’s (came from an SX trim). When I finished the install, I turned the switch on for the low beams and they turned on, then immediately off. This kept happening until enough times, it turned on and stayed on. How do I remedy this issue because turning on and off so many times gets annoying and I fear that it will blow out the bulb. Any help would be appreciated!
 

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Not one hundred precent but there is discussion on using brighter lights and other issues. The power/voltage is digitally controlled.

I believe the ballast will need to be powered with battery power to work. Use the existing socket power to active the relay only. Someone else will likely confirm but you're not getting direct or true battery voltage on these. Its the digital age so old school methods no longer work.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not one hundred precent but there is discussion on using brighter lights and other issues. The power/voltage is digitally controlled.

I believe the ballast will need to be powered with battery power to work. Use the existing socket power to active the relay only. Someone else will likely confirm but you're not getting direct or true battery voltage on these. Its the digital age so old school methods no longer work.
I see. Thanks for your insight! I’ll be looking to see how I can achieve that.
 

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Fuse battery power through a relay, then out to the balanced power 12V. Light 12V power connect to the coil of the relay and other coil to ground (-ve). You'll likely need/want to use two relays. If not you'll only use one headlamp socket for the 12V for the coil and have to run a 2nd power out from the same relay across to the 2nd ballast.

Thing is I don't know if the kia system is going to complain if there is no real load on them. A relay coil is maybe 0.1A max.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Fuse battery power through a relay, then out to the balanced power 12V. Light 12V power connect to the coil of the relay and other coil to ground (-ve). You'll likely need/want to use two relays. If not you'll only use one headlamp socket for the 12V for the coil and have to run a 2nd power out from the same relay across to the 2nd ballast.

Thing is I don't know if the kia system is going to complain if there is no real load on them. A relay coil is maybe 0.1A max.
Could I use a capacitor instead of the relay? Or do I need both?
 

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I don't think you're understanding it. You need to feed power direct from the main power distribution box or batter +ve to the ballast for what I stated above. The relay is only a switch to power it only when you turn the headlights on. Hench the control coil connection with power from the main 12V source you decide on flows through the relays main terminal. A 30A relay would handle both ballasts if you go that way or use two. One on each side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't think you're understanding it. You need to feed power direct from the main power distribution box or batter +ve to the ballast for what I stated above. The relay is only a switch to power it only when you turn the headlights on. Hench the control coil connection with power from the main 12V source you decide on flows through the relays main terminal. A 30A relay would handle both ballasts if you go that way or use two. One on each side.

Oh, ok. Where can I find the relay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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This assumes as well that the HID's are either turnning off internall for some reason (low voltage to start) or the 12V from the socket you've connect to is dropping power (digitally outputted power). Metering the 12V ballast lead is the only way to get a sense of whats going on. So if you turn on the lights as they are now. See if the 12V power comes up and to what voltage before the lights go out. If its turning off at the car it could be due to overload surge which ballast draw at the start. (Normal) Max brightest requires direct powered connections from the battery or Power distribution box stud if there is one there to connect to.

I hope this addresses the issue. I am trying to get some drinks into me. LOL Beers empty now.

those relays are dirt cheap in the USA as I went to the USA site. In Canada I'd be lucky to get two for that price.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This assumes as well that the HID's are either turnning off internall for some reason (low voltage to start) or the 12V from the socket you've connect to is dropping power (digitally outputted power). Metering the 12V ballast lead is the only way to get a sense of whats going on. So if you turn on the lights as they are now. See if the 12V power comes up and to what voltage before the lights go out. If its turning off at the car it could be due to overload surge which ballast draw at the start. (Normal) Max brightest requires direct powered connections from the battery or Power distribution box stud if there is one there to connect to.

I hope this addresses the issue. I am trying to get some drinks into me. LOL Beers empty now.

those relays are dirt cheap in the USA as I went to the USA site. In Canada I'd be lucky to get two for that price.
I hope you get that beer! Lol. Will try this. Thanks again!
 

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Note on that 2nd link there is a useable schematic to help if unclear. Don't let it confuse you. You have no switch so that's eliminated. Your ballast is the load and 12V source they show from the battery is just fused. You should fuse it at some point.

Cheers, I got wine now. I am good.

I am putting it here DEVICE is your light. Red power to the coil (86 is from you light socket !!).
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Note on that 2nd link there is a useable schematic to help if unclear. Don't let it confuse you. You have no switch so that's eliminated. Your ballast is the load and 12V source they show from the battery is just fused. You should fuse it at some point.

Cheers, I got wine now. I am good.

I am putting it here DEVICE is your light. Red power to the coil (86 is from you light socket !!).
I see.
 

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If your original low beam factory headlamps were halogen, then what you experienced was the 80 Hz PWM of the low-beam power system's inability to supply 100% current to properly start and maintain the ballasts' power requirements.

There are two ways to fix this:
1. if you're friends with someone at Kia, get them to plug in the GDS scanner and see if you can get into the Body Control Module to enable the "HID Option". This should turn off the 80 Hz modulation. However, you might still have a problem since there will be a ground circuit missing from the Intelligent Power Module's headlamp circuit that you might have to install with a new pin terminal. I've gone into great detail on this - search my prior posts.

2. use a 30-amp automotive grade relay with a electrolytic cap (8400-10,000 uF, 105C temp) and diode (1N4004) across the coil to mitigate the buzz that will occur if you use the existing low-beam positive power circuit as the relay trigger to switch battery power to the positive ballast feed - this is the method I will be using for my conversion. I've gone into great detail on this in my other posts.

Be mindful that eventually the capacitor will fail at some point due to the AC ripple it's absorbing to even out the power. So, you'll want to have an easy way to change it for spares for when it does fail especially if it's while you're driving in the middle of the night. I set up my relay harness to have the cap/diode combo be connected via an EC3 connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If your original low beam factory headlamps were halogen, then what you experienced was the 80 Hz PWM of the low-beam power system's inability to supply 100% current to properly start and maintain the ballasts' power requirements.

There are two ways to fix this:
1. if you're friends with someone at Kia, get them to plug in the GDS scanner and see if you can get into the Body Control Module to enable the "HID Option". This should turn off the 80 Hz modulation. However, you might still have a problem since there will be a ground circuit missing from the Intelligent Power Module's headlamp circuit that you might have to install with a new pin terminal. I've gone into great detail on this - search my prior posts.

2. use a 30-amp automotive grade relay with a electrolytic cap and diode across the coil to mitigate the buzz that will occur if you use the existing low-beam positive power circuit as the relay trigger to switch battery power to the positive ballast feed - this is the method I will be using for my conversion. I've gone into great detail on this in my other posts.

Be mindful that eventually the capacitor will fail at some point due to the AC ripple it's absorbing to even out the power. So, you'll want to have an easy way to change it for spares for when it does fail especially if it's while you're driving in the middle of the night. I set up my relay harness to have the cap/diode combo be connected via an EC3 connector.
I didn’t know you can tell the computer that HID headlights were installed! That will make it easier for me.
 

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The HID Option should be listed in the Body Control Module (BCM) programming screen when accessed via the Kia GDS Software. Since your Sorento isn't an SX, enabling it may or may not resolve the problem.

Unfortunately, the GDS system I bought doesn't have the correct software version for my model year Sorento to allow me to get into the BCM :( But, I've seen screen shots of this feature in parts of the shop manual.

FYI - the factory 35w ballasts pull 12-13 amps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The HID Option should be listed in the Body Control Module (BCM) programming screen when accessed via the Kia GDS Software. Since your Sorento isn't an SX, enabling it may or may not resolve the problem.

Unfortunately, the GDS system I bought doesn't have the correct software version for my model year Sorento to allow me to get into the BCM :( But, I've seen screen shots of this feature in parts of the shop manual.
I‘m hoping that my 2015 has it. I’m taking it to the dealer tomorrow to see if they can help me. The HID’s are really bright and I do not want to back to halogens. Thank you for your insight! This will help me in my quest lol
 

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Good luck!

My local Kia dealer won't do anything that would change the original system.

If you do get the HIDs operating reliably and want the ultimate bulbs check out the OSRAM D3S 66340XNL NIGHT BREAKER LASER bulbs. Be sure to aim the headlamps as per the manual (attached) or via Daniel Stern's lighting website under "Aim".
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Good luck!

My local Kia dealer won't do anything that would change the original system.

If you do get the HIDs operating reliably and want the ultimate bulbs check out the OSRAM D3S 66340XNL NIGHT BREAKER LASER bulbs. Be sure to aim the headlamps as per the manual (attached) or via Daniel Stern's lighting website under "Aim".
You are very helpful. Will keep this for reference.
 
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