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2011 Kia Optima Ex 2.4 GDI Japan version
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've owned my car aprox 4 yr & trusted her on many a trips but I've been stranded for weeks. I'm too tight/stubborn to take it to the dealership unless I have to. I had cranked it 5 min before leaving & just as I left something wasn't right but I went on my 5 min trip where I ended up stuck. Classic Alternator issue. Loss of power steering, power, windows stuck, gauges all wonky, etc. I pulled in and once I parked it wouldn't go in gear and I turned it off. Apparently it fried my jump box so i got out my cables & had a man jump me. I realized it wouldn't go in drive again & then died. I had my daughter come & leave cables on to build it & I nailed it making it 2 blocks where I broke down at an auto parts store. They said dead battery so I bought one. The battery light stayed on & she said it was alternator so I drove it straight home & shopped for alternators. While waiting on an alternator I drove it on 1 time to buy a the 150 amp fuse that sits on the + side of battery. I did that hoping that was it bc I'd had issues a few months ago breaking down & at first I'd slam my door a few times & it would start then I relied on my jumpbox until & noticed the positive side was loose & I couldn't tighten it to help so they put a shim on my positive battery post & everything was fine a few months until this happened. I checked the old one and it was still good but I replaced it anyway. Omw home it started acting up but I made it. I asked if I should go ahead & swap the serpentine belt & they said no it looked ok so I didn't. I put alternator in & my battery light went off so I thought it was fine. The 2nd day I drove it I broke down in the ATM & it took forever to get out of way. Once cranked it wouldn't go in gear but I've since learned about the shift lock feature. A man left his car on it with cables 15 min & I made it a few miles & ended up having to tow it 2 miles from home. I put the slow charge on it & ran to kia & picked up a new positive terminal bc it still didn't feel tight enough. A mechanic came out & even put it on. He also ripped of the housing around that fuse bc he said it would fit down better on the post that way. Came home & again thought it was fixed. Next day when I cranked it to leave it started again with the battery light so I ran up there & asked him to be sure it felt tight & it was.I had my multimeter out showing him the reading was going down once it was running vs the measurement I'd get on the battery before I started it. 12.4 average on the battery before starting the car & droping after starting. I asked if it could be a loose ground & he said no but he was just leaning over it glancing. He said I needed an alternator & if that didn't help maybe the pcm so hope it's the alternator. I tried to put a 2nd alternator in but it was wrong size in right box so I get the right one & I put it in. I didn't leave but seemed ok. Next morning started it and same issue. I checked all fuses & they're good under hood but not a single one lights up inside the car. Zero. I know that can't be right but IDK if it's just bc the alternator is acting so wonky or if it's a relay, wire, etc. I ordered 3-4 relays I haven't tried yet, new maxi fuses, & keep wondering how to test that enclosed fuse block . I fig I'd check here first. Last Thurs I ran to the gas station under 2 mi away thinking I'd make it back & got stuck in the middle of the road almost home. This time it gave me a code so I put my obd on & it was for low voltage. Kinda surprised I didn't have a code the other 1/2 dz times Ive been stuck...just the battery light I'm open & in need of advice/direction. Start with grounds again? relay? circut, etc. the belt &/or pulley they said I didn't need & appear ok/right, I come across posts on the web re the cars memory & resetting it,? I charged it enough yesterday to get into my back yard & finish a full trickle charge with no power steering, etc as it does when the voltage drops really low & wondering what my next steps need to be. One night it seemed like my start button was staying illuminated but I've checked several days since & it's not now. Why would none of my dash fuses light up when I test them? Could it be because the system is so drained , a separate issue, my main issue? What relay would power that set of fuses? Here's 1 potentially relevant thing...I have a bad habit of putting a key in the dash while it's parked/running & hitting the lock button then get out & use the other key to hand lock my driver door from outside so I can keep my dogs cool. Maybe locking it with the key in it is messing something up? I washed my orig proximity key destroying it a year ago but it'll still work in the dash & a guy met me at the dealer to make a replacement prox key. I feel like 1 of the 2 issues (the loose connection issue a few mo ago or the key situation I just explained) could be connected to where I am now is why I explained each. Next Steps??
 

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Registered
2011 Kia Optima Ex 2.4 GDI Japan version
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I've owned my car aprox 4 yr & trusted her on many a trips but I've been stranded for weeks. I'm too tight/stubborn to take it to the dealership unless I have to. I had cranked it 5 min before leaving & just as I left something wasn't right but I went on my 5 min trip where I ended up stuck. Classic Alternator issue. Loss of power steering, power, windows stuck, gauges all wonky, etc. I pulled in and once I parked it wouldn't go in gear and I turned it off. Apparently it fried my jump box so i got out my cables & had a man jump me. I realized it wouldn't go in drive again & then died. I had my daughter come & leave cables on to build it & I nailed it making it 2 blocks where I broke down at an auto parts store. They said dead battery so I bought one. The battery light stayed on & she said it was alternator so I drove it straight home & shopped for alternators. While waiting on an alternator I drove it on 1 time to buy a the 150 amp fuse that sits on the + side of battery. I did that hoping that was it bc I'd had issues a few months ago breaking down & at first I'd slam my door a few times & it would start then I relied on my jumpbox until & noticed the positive side was loose & I couldn't tighten it to help so they put a shim on my positive battery post & everything was fine a few months until this happened. I checked the old one and it was still good but I replaced it anyway. Omw home it started acting up but I made it. I asked if I should go ahead & swap the serpentine belt & they said no it looked ok so I didn't. I put alternator in & my battery light went off so I thought it was fine. The 2nd day I drove it I broke down in the ATM & it took forever to get out of way. Once cranked it wouldn't go in gear but I've since learned about the shift lock feature. A man left his car on it with cables 15 min & I made it a few miles & ended up having to tow it 2 miles from home. I put the slow charge on it & ran to kia & picked up a new positive terminal bc it still didn't feel tight enough. A mechanic came out & even put it on. He also ripped of the housing around that fuse bc he said it would fit down better on the post that way. Came home & again thought it was fixed. Next day when I cranked it to leave it started again with the battery light so I ran up there & asked him to be sure it felt tight & it was.I had my multimeter out showing him the reading was going down once it was running vs the measurement I'd get on the battery before I started it. 12.4 average on the battery before starting the car & droping after starting. I asked if it could be a loose ground & he said no but he was just leaning over it glancing. He said I needed an alternator & if that didn't help maybe the pcm so hope it's the alternator. I tried to put a 2nd alternator in but it was wrong size in right box so I get the right one & I put it in. I didn't leave but seemed ok. Next morning started it and same issue. I checked all fuses & they're good under hood but not a single one lights up inside the car. Zero. I know that can't be right but IDK if it's just bc the alternator is acting so wonky or if it's a relay, wire, etc. I ordered 3-4 relays I haven't tried yet, new maxi fuses, & keep wondering how to test that enclosed fuse block . I fig I'd check here first. Last Thurs I ran to the gas station under 2 mi away thinking I'd make it back & got stuck in the middle of the road almost home. This time it gave me a code so I put my obd on & it was for low voltage. Kinda surprised I didn't have a code the other 1/2 dz times Ive been stuck...just the battery light I'm open & in need of advice/direction. Start with grounds again? relay? circut, etc. the belt &/or pulley they said I didn't need & appear ok/right, I come across posts on the web re the cars memory & resetting it,? I charged it enough yesterday to get into my back yard & finish a full trickle charge with no power steering, etc as it does when the voltage drops really low & wondering what my next steps need to be. One night it seemed like my start button was staying illuminated but I've checked several days since & it's not now. Why would none of my dash fuses light up when I test them? Could it be because the system is so drained , a separate issue, my main issue? What relay would power that set of fuses? Here's 1 potentially relevant thing...I have a bad habit of putting a key in the dash while it's parked/running & hitting the lock button then get out & use the other key to hand lock my driver door from outside so I can keep my dogs cool. Maybe locking it with the key in it is messing something up? I washed my orig proximity key destroying it a year ago but it'll still work in the dash & a guy met me at the dealer to make a replacement prox key. I feel like 1 of the 2 issues (the loose connection issue a few mo ago or the key situation I just explained) could be connected to where I am now is why I explained each. Next Steps??
Good grief I wish someone would reply to me....😭. I hope activity will push it towards the top. I believe it's all related to alternator but I'd also love to hear back re none of my interior fuses coming on with the light...some troubleshooting steps I need to take...& what if any relays should I suspect first......🙄frustrated
 

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99 Kia Elan 1.8L
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It may be the "wall of text" which is not easy to read - probably many wouldn't bother.

Punctuation and structured text are not a requirement on this forum, but it might be something that will help your cause.
 

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2011 Kia Optima Ex 2.4 GDI Japan version
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It may be the "wall of text" which is not easy to read - probably many wouldn't bother.

Punctuation and structured text are not a requirement on this forum, but it might be something that will help your cause.
I just read your reply and my first thought was are you serious? Yes it is a lot and it's all relevant......relevant in either solving my issue or what needs to be ruled out. I'd just spent $1800 saving my pet from an illness & yes we all have things in life but I was/am desperately needing help on my car. I could've left off what I'd already been through troubleshooting but I thought it'd cut down on the basic pieces of advice I'd already tried.

I'm trying not to read tone in to your response but it's very sarcastic. If you don't have anything at all that would help the individual directly with the specific issue they are seeking help on either don't say anything to them or send something of this nature as a private message verses humiliating them & doing anything that could potentially discourage anyone else from giving feedback on their issue. I will revisit my post. I can take criticism but it's better received in a non public environment. I own it was the wee hours I posted it and I had started and stopped several times the day before as I was building the msg and would've been better in one sitting yet I also provided in chronological order which arguably is relevant to solving my issue.

I was so excited when I saw I had a response only to open it and it be nothing about my car. I'm sure there's probably alot of people on here who think a woman's place isn't in a forum about repairing their car. I'm the only one I truly trust and can afford to work on it. Id rather be doing other things but it is what it is. Thank you
 

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2011 Kia Optima Ex 2.4 GDI Japan version
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4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've gotten a new battery and changed my alternator twice. I've kept having symptoms of a bad alternator & finally got a code the last time I broke down for low voltage. I couldn't erase it. I had a lot of bad relays and since I changed them I dont have the code but it's showing as a pending code. I also changed the bigfuse on top of the positive cable. All connections and grounds seem fine. The relays that were bad and I replaced were.....

ECM
C/FAN High - (that one may of been bad before this)
Start
RR HTD
PDM1 ACC
PDM2 IG1 - (I'm not certain it was bad. When I pulled it to test it it flew out of the pliers and landed under the car so I just replaced it anyway. It rained a day before I got it out from under it and then I tested it out of curiosity. It tested bad but Idk if it was that way when it came from car or later.

1 other really odd thing is non of my fuses light inside my car at the driverside inside dash panel.

Next plan is to to change my serpentine belt and tensioner even though it appears tight and looks fine it's turning slow I noticed and I get a clickity sound sound in that area.

Any thoughts? .....about those relays.....the mystery fuse issue in the car & my next plan of action? I wondered about the big multifuse that's enclosed at the big fuse box near the battery.

I'm about to loose my mind from being stuck and taking it to the dealer isn't an option right now. .....financially but especially until Ive tried everything I know to do.

Thanks Melssa
 
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