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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Howdy everyone:D

Ive been lurking for a long time, gathered a lot of info but I cannot find the solution to the problem this time.

The vehicle has extended start times. When using a jump from my truck it starts fine the times I went that route.

1) 2001 Kia Sephia, auto.

2) New NGK plugs and wires 100 miles ago. Grandma had never had any maint. work done.

3) Fuel pressure was high 30s' low 40's was taking a long time to build up, very delayed. Put in new pump, holds about 52psi at idle, builds pressure fast.

4) Replaced fuel filter as well.

5) I have the old Camshaft sensor and Crankshaft sensor out. I have new ones as well. Using the new ones, I did a Ohm test and the "old" ones provide nearly the same amount of resistance. The new camshaft sensor is about 26ohms and the old is 23ohms. The Crankshaft sensor both new and old about .800ohms.

6) A shop said it was both of the above sensors, thus the reason I got new ones but have not installed them. I doubt both sensors went, at the same time.

I'll check the coil packs for resistance tomorrow and I'm trying to use the kia website for offical troubleshooting but I'm at a loss.
I don't wan to throw 140 bucks in two sensors and have it be something else.

Thoughts??

THanks in advanced!
 

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2015 Buick Verano "Leather Group", 2015 Kia Optima Hybrid
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Little more info. Is the check engine light on? What codes? Without them, if there are any present, is just a shot in the dark.

What did you gap the plugs at? Or did you leave them alone and not gap cause they say "pre-gapped" if you did not gap them, they need to be. Set at .028-.032

Have you bothered to clean the battery terminals? Big issue with these cars, makes for no starts/hard starts.

How about the ground after the battery? Is it clean, and not green with corrosion?

Lastly, how does it sound when starting? Sluggish?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Little more info. Is the check engine light on? What codes? Without them, if there are any present, is just a shot in the dark.
There is no CEL and no codes. I have an AE and i'm not pulling any DTC.

What did you gap the plugs at? Or did you leave them alone and not gap cause they say "pre-gapped" if you did not gap them, they need to be. Set at .028-.032
Yeah, I read about gapping issues here so there are all at .030.
Have you bothered to clean the battery terminals? Big issue with these cars, makes for no starts/hard starts.
terminals have were cleaned when I did the plugs 2 weeks ago. I use dielectric grease when dealing w/ electrical connections as well.

How about the ground after the battery? Is it clean, and not green with corrosion?
Both terminals and cables were cleaned up w/ a wire wheel and sand paper and dielectric grease was used when I did the plugs 2 weeks ago

Lastly, how does it sound when starting? Sluggish?
Sounds like a vehicle that refuses to start, nothing special.
 

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2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
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You said "When using a jump from my truck it starts fine the times I went that route."
Have you checked the voltage at the battery when cranking over the engine? A weak cell in the battery could cause the voltage to drop under a heavy load (cranking) and a "jump" from a healthy battery would bring the voltage back up to a level where starting becomes possible.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #5
initial voltage 2 weeks ago when I first started working on it was 12.4v.
I put it on a trickle charger and when removing the charger it is 13.1v.
From what I've read around here, these are extremely finicky vehicles. Funny thing is at 12.4v it has extended cranking but when I jump it or use the charger to maintain the 13+v it fires right up.

Grandma had a shop check it out and they said both the crank and cam sensor. I compared them to new and they are w/in spec.

Also, I pulled the coils and Secondary coil resistance was 12 and normal is : 13~15 kΩ
Primary coil resistance was .600 IIRC and normal is : 0.45~0.55 Ω

I'm guessing that the coils are slowly on the way out.

I also cleaned some junk off the crank sensor and wire wheeled the ground cable at the trans and wire wheeled the bolt and bolt hole/surrounding area. I used some dielectric grease when i put back together. Last time I only dealt w/ the battery area.

At the moment the car starts right up after the above mentioned cleanings. I think maybe the junk on the crank sensor and the very light oxidation on the transmission ground point that may have been enough to cause some problems. I'll drive it for a few days but the starter itself is dying due to the previous few weeks of extended cranking so that is another project. I have my traction bars and 3link for my truck I'd rather work on but we have to keep grandma's car running.
 

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2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
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I think you are "on" to some "problems"
You said " I think maybe the junk on the crank sensor and the very light oxidation on the transmission ground point that may have been enough to cause some problems."
With the sensitivity to a slight increase in voltage and a "little" voltage drop across that transmission ground strap may be just enough to cause your starting problems.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Its amazing that 1.8L has issues w/ 12.4v but I in my truck I can drain the heck out of the batteries and i've had them below 11v and I could still get 444 CI to crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well after replacing both the crank and cam sensor it is starting, for now.

The car will start and run w/o the cam sensor but any removal of the crank sensor kills the motor immediately.
Eitherway, there we are and thanks.
 
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