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Sedona '02
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Discussion Starter #1
This is for the benefits of anyone who may need it.

Our Sedona is not a daily driver. It has over 173,000 miles but still drives fine - does need a new AC compressor, though. We use it for moving stuff occasionally.

Over the last 6 months, I noticed a faint whining sound from the front (it sounded like a jet engine sound, kinda similar). If you gas the car to speed and let go of the gas, engine sound fades and you can hear it. It was a bit tough to ascertain which side it was coming from but it definitely was from the front right. Also, it seemed like the engine was working a bit harder to get up to speed and stuff. You can feel that more effort being done by the engine.

I looked at a few options:
1. It could be the wheel bearing
2. It could be the carrier bearing - For the right side, Sedona has a center drive shaft from the transmission that is held by a center carrier (bolted to the engine). And your CV shaft drive connects to it. The carrier has a bearing inside as well. This can be expensive. You can only get the part from the dealers. It comes in one assembly with the shaft and the carrier bearing all together. It's around $150ish.
3. It could be something with the transmission - which means the car goes to the junk yard. Don't wanna spend that money.

I did several test drives to make sure it was what I thought it was (wheel bearing). The reason is that that bearing was changed only one and half year ago at a repair shop, of all things. So, I had to be sure. Recently, upon occasional short drive the keep engine running, the sound got louder now which is bad.

The car sat through the winter season - too cold to work on it. I didn't want to spend money again at the repair shop.

So, the weather got warm here and I decided to take a stab at it.

I had a Timkin bearing from rockauto and the wheel bearing dust seal from Advanceauto.

I bought a Slide hammer kit from harbor freight with a coupon. (I have a bearing removal kit bought from HF a long time ago. it was around $60 then. Holy cow it's now $120). The kit paid for it self ( I did 4 different bearing jobs already in last 4 years). this is fifth time now.

This applies to almost most standard pressed in wheel bearings. They are all similar. (I am not using the press. But, you may have to resort to that if you fail to remove the bearing. So prepared to go to a machine shop or a repair shop with a shop press).

You do not have to remove the knuckle from the lower ball joint - which is a pain to remove.

Choke the rear wheels so car does not roll. Put on parking brake.

1. Raise right side with jack where my issue wheel is.
2. Put on jack stands (put two - I always put two)
3. Remove wheel
4. Remove brake caliper (two bolts) - put it on a bungee cord so the brake line does not get stretched.
5. Remove brake caliper bracket (two big bolts)
6. Remove two screws on the brake rotor - careful the screws are kinda soft metal (I hate those things) and you might need an impact screw driver - cheap at HF.
7. Remove brake rotor. (it gets rusty between hub and rotor - behind the rotor - use hammer to bang to break rust. be careful with the lug bolt threads)
8. Now, you have to remove the wheel hub - the one with five lug bolts. - You need the slide hammer for this.
9. Remove the bolt holding tie rod. - remove tie rod. - easy
10. Remove two big bolts holding knuckle to the strut. - easy - get breaker bar or 1/2 impact driver
11. Move the Knuckle down and remove the drive shaft spindle from the wheel hub. Put drive shaft to the side. (just notice that they did not put on the wheel bearing rubber seal - that repair shop- what douche they are, bloody hell). It maybe reason why it was failing so soon.
12. Put the tie rod back on and screw back the nut. Just snug and not too tight
13. Put the knuckle back on the strut and screw back the two bolts and nuts. Tight but not too tight.
14. Now the knuckle is straight, held by the suspension without the drive spindle shaft sticking out from the hub.
15. put the slide hammer kit on the hub with the Tire wheel nuts.
16. Use slide hammer (I added another 5lb of weight those exercise weight together). It took 5 slide hammering and the hub came out.
17. Hub will come out with a piece of inner race stuck. - this always happens. (I notice the separated inner bearing looks okay visually and grease is still green color).
18. Remove slide hammer from hub.
19. Now, you are going to remove the whole bearing.
20. Remove snap ring - kinda fiddly.
21. The bearing has to come out from the side where the snap ring is. So, the bearing is going to be coming out toward you.
22. Use the bearing kit to remove bearing - use plenty grease on that big bolt so that it turns easily. (look up at Harbor Freight) I got it with a coupon.
23. This is where if that bearing does not move you have to remove the Knuckle and bring it to a machine shop - if you drove for a while even with all the grinding noise and racket, you could have melted the outer bearing to fuse with your Knuckle. That's bad. You won't be able to remove the bearing even with a 25 ton press. You will have to junk the knuckle and buy a new or get one from a junk yard. I know because I had to buy one after one of my bearing fused with the knuckle. Bad DAY.
24. After removing the old bearing, clean out the inside wheel carefully. Might want to use small wire brush (HF cheap) to clean out the ring area where the snap ring goes. It gets rusty there sometimes. Use brake cleaner to clean.
25. Now, Press in the new bearing carefully, use some light grease on it - make sure it's going in straight - you have to support the outer race here - lots of youtube videos. Do not press on the inner race.
26. put on the snap ring (put some small amount of anti seize on it).
27. Now, ready to put on the hub. - Put it on some vise or have to put it on ground and support it.
28. get a grinder - cheap at HF, and grind the piece of inner race that's stuck on the hub spindle. Careful, do not grind the hub spindle. Grind just enough but leave some race on it. Then, take a cold chisel and hammer where you ground the metal. It will crack. Then, it's easy to knock it off. It takes about 3 minutes to grind it. Very easy.
29. If you don't want to grind the race on hub, buy a new hub. They are fairly cheap. I just didn't want to bother.
30. Take the hub and put it on the wheel - use the bearing kit. Support the inner race when doing this. It's very easy with the kit. Do not press on the outer race.
31. Now, take the tie rod off of knuckle. take the two big bolts off of Knuckle and move it off strut. Now knuckle is leaning toward you with inner side showing.
32. Take the Wheel Bearing Seal (rubber seal with metal ring inside) and put it on the inside where where bearing is.
33. Take one of the metal bushing from the bearing kit, put the flat side on the seal and hammer it. It will click on.
34. Now, stick the CV shaft into the wheel and line up so the spindle goes through.
35. Put the tie rod back on first and tighten it.
36. Put the knuckle back on the strut and tighten the two big bolts.
37. Put the rotor back on the hub. Line up the two screw holes. Hold it with one lug nut. and Put on the two big screws. DO NOT TIGHTEN TOO TIGHT. They get pressed by the wheel. So, they will not fall off. Do not worry.
38. Put on the caliper bracket. Put on the two big bolts. Tighten - should be quite tight. These MUST NOT Fall off.
39. Put on the caliper and bolt them. These should be tight but NOT super tight. I think usual torque is around 35 to 40lb. Don't forget the pads.
40. Now, put the spindle NUT - this has to be torqued to at least 200 lb. It MUST NOT fall off. - chisel with a round chisel (straight chisel can cut it) the edge to the notch on the spindle so it does not rotate off.
41. Now, you have a completed wheel.
42. Make sure you have tightened all the bolts and nuts.
42. Put the wheel back on and tighten all the lug nuts in star patter. 90-100lb torque is what I use.

go for a test drive - yes the jet engine sound is gone now and the car is moving more effortlessly as well. It definitely was the bearing.


You are done.
Cheers.
 

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Registered
2003 Kia Sedona EX
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32 Posts
Nice write up!

I had that same bearing go out last summer (July 2019). Lots of google searching at that time for tips on how to fix it right. There were lots of others who said that specific bearing seems to always be a problem on this model van.

Not terribly hard to fix, but can be very time consuming.
 

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2019 Kia Sportage. SX with AWD. 2.0L Direct Injected Turbocharged & Intercooled Gas.
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868 Posts
I second the kudo's.
Nice step by step detailed explanation!
 

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Sedona '02
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141 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Nice write up!

I had that same bearing go out last summer (July 2019). Lots of google searching at that time for tips on how to fix it right. There were lots of others who said that specific bearing seems to always be a problem on this model van.

Not terribly hard to fix, but can be very time consuming.
Thanks!

Yes, it's not a terribly complicated job. In theory, it's pretty simple. But, it is time consuming a bit because you have to be careful in certain steps and take your time, especially when you are lining up the bearing to press in. You want to make sure it's not going in askew. I was measuring with a ruler around the bearing when seated to make sure it was straight.

Took me 5 hours because one of the 2 screws that hold the rotor to the hub, it got stuck and I was banging on the impact screw and the bloody screw bit broke off in the screw slots. Bloody hell it was. I was drilling first. It didn't work. Holy crap. I had to use a straight cold chisel to make strait cut and knock on it counter clockwise at an angle to rotate the screw off. It took me 45 minutes to get the bloody screw off. What a pain those screws are. I hate them. One may just elect to not use them since the wheel will press in the rotors anyway.
 
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