Any one could help me to get more power on my Spectra 2005 sedan 1600 cc of 106 hp ?
Iam putting now with each one full tank I bottle of extra octane which give a little of performance improving..
Pls give me any suggestion..
I have also been experiencing the same problem. Mainly the underperformance on my 04.5 Spectra sedan comes upon acceleration. When I reach highway speed 55 -65 mph the performance issue seems to go away. My main issue is with a clattering that comes from the engine. Sounds like a knock or pinging. Does your car have this problem as well ? When I try an octane booster the problem does go away for that one tank full. But when the tank is empty and you put in fuel without the booster the problem returns.
Please see my other recent posts - 04.5 spectra spark knock, started by nmcrazy.
When I first started noticing the pinging, clattering noise it was very faint. But now the sound overpowers the radio. You might want to try listening to your engine with the radio off and the AC off to see if you notice the pinging.
But a don’t have any knock or pinging or any strange voice from the engine ,instead of that its go very smoothly ,
But I seek for extra power (more hp) as I have a RIO 2001 which go very will
And from two month I bought the Spectra 2005 ,then I noticed that the Spectra is not aggressive in spite of its outside look opposite of the RIO ,
For my opinion the problem is :
The RIO have 1500 cc engine of 98 hp with weight of 925 kg
The Spectra have 1600 cc engine of 106 hp with weight of 1250 kg
That mean :
In Rio each 1 hp have 9.43 kg
In Spectra each 1 hp have 11.79 kg
And that what make my Rio more aggressive than Spectra
For now (if I don’t find a way to increase the Spectra power ),I will follow this philosophy:
Take the Rio if I seek more aggressive driving
Take the Spectra if I seek more comfortable and elegance driving
P.S: in Syria the Spectra have only 1600 cc engine we don’t have 2000 cc
Spark konck complaints: if your engine is equipped with EGR, ensure it is operating. Second if no EGR, suspect carbon deposits in the combustion chambers raising the effective compression ratio. (usually high mileage or poor quality fuel)
Thats why the "Octane boost" temporarlily cures the knock.You could either, remove a spark plug and inspect the color of the piston crown, should be a light to medium brown /gray color.............not black & flakey looking. The piston should appear smooth surface not bumpy or flakey.
excessive carbon build up................there are several ways to "Decarbon" the combustion chambers, quite easy to do.
Beware of the dealerships "carbon-blaster" special........I dont care for them at all and it could potentially damage the catalyst in the process if not perfomed correctly.
You can also perform a cylinder compression test to verify cranking pressure is not excessive ( check manual for specifications).
If it is................you know you have a problem, regardless of what else you may find.
If your fuel octane is at least 85 (r+m/2) I would check those two items first.
The other most likely cause is a lean fuel mixture..........any DTC's stored for the Ox sensor circuits or misfiring?
Dont forget to check the fuel pressure with a gauge, the ECM cannot determine fuel pressure............it wil simply attempt to adjust the fuel mixture if it can to keep the car running, not fast................. just running.
Check that fuel pressure !!!!
I forgot to mention ignition timing....................Do'h.
Over advanced ignition timing can be a BIG cause for spark knock.
you can retard it a few degrees. Even distributorless engines can have the base timing updated with the appropriate diagnostic card & HiScan-pro at any dealership.
Make sure the HiScan-pro timing displayed on the screen matchs what you read with a timing light, some systems have a CPS on the pulley in addition to the sensor in the block.
If the pulley outer ring slips....................it's happened more times than I care to count, LOL. the ECM may do some STRANGE things with the timing.
Some have the sensor behind the actual Timing Belt/crank sprocket, those are bombproof unless the Timing belt is shredded after failing.
If all is normal, you can retard the timing -2' at a time until the knock is eliminated on Wide open throttle acceleration & high load.
I havent had one yet that needed more than a -6' dgree update to settle down.
You may also need to update the base idle setting as well if it is substantialy lower than it was. hope this helps.