[DeeRock]

Forgot to mention that once the RPMs hit about 3,000 it would take off like a rocket. Absolutely FULL POWER!

Would verify low compression, then tear in to the timing. Sounds like you have a slipped crank key.

 

[DeeRock]

And the compression test showed 2 cylinders with 80, two with 15ish. And now I get to tear into the timing and replace the sheared key on the crankshaft gear. Actually I am grateful that it is such a cheap part to replace. If it had been a sensor the cost would have been a minimum of $60.00 from any of the local sources.

Use sharp eyes when you find yourself with the crank gear off. Often when the key shears it is not due to failure of the key, but failure of the last person who changed the timing belt to not tighten the crank bolt correctly, putting too much stress on the key. Check the groove that the key sits in to make sure there is not air gap around the key and the edges are square and sharp. If you find that the groove is wallowed out, position the key so that it sits in the groove as far to your right as you can and fill the gap with JB Weld. Recommend cleaning with pure acetone or non-residual brake parts cleaner before applying epoxy.

When tightening the crank bolt keep in mind that the key is not supposed to bear any of the engine load, it is there for timing purposes only, so you need enough torque on that bolt for the engine load to be held simply by the face of the bolt against the crank gear.

I like to remove a spark plug and insert as much 3/16" vacuum hose in the cylinder as I can, when the engine bottoms out due to the hose you can apply incredible amounts of torque to the crank bolt and the engine will hold still.