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Kia Rio 2010 (KIA Rio II, 1.4 16V 97CV)
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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
"AUTOSPARK" I apologize for the insistence and thank you again, despite the difficulty of understanding what I am writing!
*
I summarize: From the data and the test I did with your helper:
1- No electrical problem.
2- No ECU hardware problem.
So you think there is a difficulty in programming the ECU!
So the question arises: why before it normally controls the fan functionality at 94 and 103 ° C and now only that at 103 ° C, does the use of OBD2 reader for reading coolant tempurature can affect the ECU softwere modification?
This problem cannot be related to "Cooling Fan Resistor" which is stuck on the passenger side fan surface?
***
What do you think for these solutions:
1- I would try to make a new ECU softwere at a kia dealer. if it is not possible I would do something else: integrate a standard Thermo Switch capteur set to 93 °C and integrate it into the radiator and we will connect it with the first fan on the driver's side which does not contain a" Resistor".
2- I will used an aftermarket fan controller set to 94 ° C (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32823954149.html) and connected directly also to the driver side fan.
Nasa
 

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So the question arises: why before it normally controls the fan functionality at 94 and 103 ° C and now only that at 103 ° C
I have no idea.

Nasreddine N said:
does the use of OBD2 reader for reading coolant tempurature can affect the ECU softwere modification?
No.

Nasreddine N said:
This problem cannot be related to "Cooling Fan Resistor" which is stuck on the passenger side fan surface?
There is no "cooling fan resistor" on the two fan system. When there are two fans one of the fans is used as the resistor.
Study the circuit diagrams at the beginning of the thread and you'll see that in slow speed mode current from the Rad Fan fuse flows through both fans, so one fan acts as the resistor. This circuit configuration is called a series circuit were the supply voltage is shared between both fans. Notice in the table at the bottom of the image that the voltage at point '5' is 6V. The voltage across each fan connector is half the supply voltage so the fans operate at half speed. No resistor required.


Nasreddine N said:
What do you think for these solutions
Why do you need a solution? What is the problem your trying to solve? Is the engine overheating?
 

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Kia Rio 2010 (KIA Rio II, 1.4 16V 97CV)
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Discussion Starter #23
here is no "cooling fan resistor" on the two fan system. When there are two fans one of the fans is used as the resistor.
Study the circuit diagrams at the beginning of the thread and you'll see that in slow speed mode current from the Rad Fan fuse flows through both fans, so one fan acts as the resistor. This circuit configuration is called a series circuit were the supply voltage is shared between both fans. Notice in the table at the bottom of the image that the voltage at point '5' is 6V. The voltage across each fan connector is half the supply voltage so the fans operate at half speed. No resistor required.
Thank you also for your professionalism and your kindness. Thank you for all these clarifications.
 

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Kia Rio 2010 (KIA Rio II, 1.4 16V 97CV)
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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Why do you need a solution? What is the problem your trying to solve? Is the engine overheating?
Normally the overheating engine warning light never lights up, so the engine does not heat up! but i want to be vigilant.
In fact, when I do the follow-up with OBD2 I find when there is traffic jam + exterme temperature in summer (45 °C): the temperature of the engine reaches 100 ° C without having run the fan what make me think of possible serious bad consequences for the engine part like the head gasket..ect !
So when the engine contained heated up to 103°C the two fans start to work.
so I dropped the problem of fan functionality at 94 ° C without having to worry! no? what do you think?
Please! last question from all this data you think there is no problem ECU hardware. because an electrician told me that it must be changed!
We kindly thank you for your co-operation.
Nasa
 

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last question from all this data you think there is no problem ECU hardware.
No, the hardware seems to be functioning correctly. The ECU is able to control the fans in both high and low speed modes.
If there is a fault, and I'm not convinced there is, it must be with the logic that controls when the fans should be switched on (software).

If your loosing sleep at night over the operation of the cooling fans just do what @Uno122 did on the other thread. Fit a programmable fan controller. Then you can set the fans to operate at whatever temperature you like. That would certainly be a much cheaper option than replacing the expensive ECU. And it guarantees the result your looking for. Replacing the ECU does not.
 

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2011 Kia Rio LX Base Model
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Normally the overheating engine warning light never lights up, so the engine does not heat up! but i want to be vigilant.
In fact, when I do the follow-up with OBD2 I find when there is traffic jam + exterme temperature in summer (45 °C): the temperature of the engine reaches 100 ° C without having run the fan what make me think of possible serious bad consequences for the engine part like the head gasket..ect !
So when the engine contained heated up to 103°C the two fans start to work.
so I dropped the problem of fan functionality at 94 ° C without having to worry! no? what do you think?
Please! last question from all this data you think there is no problem ECU hardware. because an electrician told me that it must be changed!
We kindly thank you for your co-operation.
Nasa
With the help of @AUTOSPARK , and @kiaguy002 I was able to fit a programmable controller by using a mechanical thermostat, piggybacking pin #85 of RAD FAN.
If you take a look at post #81, 91, 92, and 94 it's basically a tutorial on how we accomplished it. In my case I went into the fuse box and unclipped the bottom half of the fuse box, traced the wire coming from RAD FAN relay socket (in my case it was a brown/black wire, double check with a multimeter) soldered another wire to it, and attached that to C terminal on my fan. The other wire goes to ground (vehicle metal). Ecu is happy because it still thinks nothing is wrong with it. lol

Page 5 Kia rio no low fan speed


If your loosing sleep at night over the operation of the cooling fans just do what @Uno122 did on the other thread. Fit a programmable fan controller. Then you can set the fans to operate at whatever temperature you like. That would certainly be a much cheaper option than replacing the expensive ECU. And it guarantees the result your looking for. Replacing the ECU does not.
😄
 

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Kia Rio 2010 (KIA Rio II, 1.4 16V 97CV)
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Discussion Starter #27
No, the hardware seems to be functioning correctly. The ECU is able to control the fans in both high and low speed modes.
If there is a fault, and I'm not convinced there is, it must be with the logic that controls when the fans should be switched on (software
Very happy with this news. so I do not need to buy an ECU which is very expensive and thanks to your advice (to imagine the price of an original ECU + programming a key in my country which is equivalent to the payment of a month and a half (45 days) of work for a doctor!)
 

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Kia Rio 2010 (KIA Rio II, 1.4 16V 97CV)
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Discussion Starter #28
No, the hardware seems to be functioning correctly. The ECU is able to control the fans in both high and low speed modes.
If there is a fault, and I'm not convinced there is, it must be with the logic that controls when the fans should be switched on (software).

If your loosing sleep at night over the operation of the cooling fans just do what @Uno122 did on the other thread. Fit a programmable fan controller. Then you can set the fans to operate at whatever temperature you
 

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Kia Rio 2010 (KIA Rio II, 1.4 16V 97CV)
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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
If your loosing sleep at night over the operation of the cooling fans just do what @Uno122 did on the other thread. Fit a programmable fan controller. Then you can set the fans to operate at whatever temperature you like. That would certainly be a much cheaper option than replacing the expensive ECU. And it guarantees the result your looking for. Replacing the ECU does not.
ok i will try to do the same @Uno122
First of all I have to order "Fit a programmable fan controller" https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32912040012.html : www.aliexpress.com/item/4000108216757.html
for the installation which is a little fuzzy for me: for example what is the temperature sensor used (fan control / car?) ... ect
Finally, @AUTOSPARK, thank you very much for the time you have devoted to to answer me
 

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Kia Rio 2010 (KIA Rio II, 1.4 16V 97CV)
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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Hi, @Uno122 @AUTOSPARK @kiaguy002
For the sensor how did you install it? it must be with a Thread and install at the hose in the outlet of the engine cooling water?
what do you think you bought:
Thermo Controller Switch Module DC 12V:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32912040012.html
and having used other Water Temp Sensor with Thread like this:
US $4.63 7% OFF|Dragon gauge 52mm Blue LED backLight Car Racing Modification Digital Water temperature gauge Celsius temp Meter With Sensor|gauge 52mm|gauge water tempgauge water - AliExpress
So from the summary of tutorials ( 2011 Kia Rio No low fan speed.)
I found an installation like the one shown below is it correct?
 

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Your wiring wasn't quite right. The module needs to output a ground to control the fans...
114719


If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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Kia Rio 2010 (KIA Rio II, 1.4 16V 97CV)
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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
@AUTOSPARK, Thank you very much for this very valuable clarification.

I am not sure the pin 85 for that I carried out a test in two stages with a multimeter concerning the relay of "RAD FAN"
test 1: Engine OFF A / C OFF IGN ON

Rad fan
PINXX- 12.1V
PIN85- 3.52V
PINXX- 0V
PINXX- 12.1V


test 2: Engine ON A / C OFF IGN ON

Rad fan
PINXX- 13.3V
PIN85- 3.52V
PINXX- 0V
PINXX- 13.3V
There is the picture below:
Can you tell me which are pin 86,87,30?
are these values correct?
For not making a hole in the fuse box is it correct that I do a research concerning the wire pin85 before entering in the fuse box and connect it by module? also I could use the 12V connection of the module from the relay terminal pin which contains the same voltage ?
 

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The terminal with 3.5V is the relay control terminal that you want to connect the output of the fan controller to. The Rad Fan relay is the one that controls the slow speed fans, so only connect to that one relay. I don't think it would be a good idea to connect to both relay circuits, which would in effect short the two circuits together.

The fan control wires enter the fusebox on one of the harness connectors on top of the fusebox, so you could splice onto the fan control wire there rather than drilling a hole on the bottom of the fusebox. It looks as though the Rio shares the same fusebox as the Hyundai Accent. On the Accent the two fan control circuits enter the box on terminals 17 & 18 on the connector shown below. Terminal 17 being the control terminal for the Rad Fan relay, 18 for the Cond Fan relays.

You can confirm that the Rio wired the same as the Accent by either doing a continuity test between the Rad Fan relay socket's 3.5V terminal and the harness connector terminal 17, or by measuring the voltage on terminal 17 with the relay removed and with the relay refitted. If you get 3.5V with the relay removed and 12V with it fitted your on the correct terminal. Test the voltage with the ignition switched on, of course.
114743


If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 

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Kia Rio 2010 (KIA Rio II, 1.4 16V 97CV)
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Discussion Starter #35
The terminal with 3.5V is the relay control terminal that you want to connect the output of the fan controller to. The Rad Fan relay is the one that controls the slow speed fans, so only connect to that one relay. I don't think it would be a good idea to connect to both relay circuits, which would in effect short the two circuits together.
@AUTOSPARK, I don't know how I can ever thank you for your help. It is absolutely clear!
Soon I would look for continuity test between the Rad Fan relay socket's 3.5V terminal (connector terminal 17and PIN 85) and I will let you know as soon as everything is ready!
sorry for these numbers of questions!
Is it possible that I use the temperature probe (below)of the car and connect the appropriate wire with the fan controller? if yes which wire? I could know him by the multimeter ? (this to avoid making an adapter for a new probe on the upper hose-cut!)
114746
 

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@AUTOSPARK, I don't know how I can ever thank you for your help.
You don't? Maybe I need to make the "buy me a coffee" banner a bit bigger ;)

Nasreddine N said:
Is it possible that I use the temperature probe (below)of the car and connect the appropriate wire with the fan controller?
@Uno122 asked me the very same question, so I'll just refer you to the answer I gave on his thread...splicing into the factory ECT for signal

If I helped you fix it, why not...

Your support is greatly appreciated
 
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