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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello,

I have sportage with 2l 94 kW petrol engine.

Sometimes its hard to start, doesnt matter if engine is cold or hot, impossible to start engine after turning it off, need to wait 10-15min to cool engine, and it starts.
Yesterday I was driving and when I disengaged gear engine stalled, while doing 30-40 km/h. And now check engine light came up. (going for diagnostics for this one) Apart form these problems engine feels smooth, no power loss. Any ideas what could be wrong or what to check.
 

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02 Sportage 4x4...66 Shelby GT350...70 Mercury Cyclone Spoiler
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Really hard to say. When it doesn't start, is it because of no spark, or no fuel. That is where I would start. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Ordered new spark plugs. I thought maybe there are specific problems which this model could have. How often fuel filter need to be changed?
 

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'96 Camry v6 XLE, '00 Camry LE
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Greetings,

If it is happening cold or hot, you may want to try re-seating the Coolant Temp sensor and Air Intake sensor connectors to see if there is any improvement,

but your statement in the top post, re: getting diagnostics / hooking up to an engine scanner to (view) the real-time values of the sensors reported by the ECM is the -best- diagnostic path..

re: known issues: the ground points on the Sporty tend to rust over, recommend cleaning the battery terminals, battery -> frame ground, battery -> motor ground points up,

the (Main) and (Fuel pump) relays do wear/degrade/fail over time: if there are many miles /kms on the relays, consider replacing as a diagnostic step..
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Greetings,
hooking up to an engine scanner to (view) the real-time values of the sensors reported by the ECM is the -best- diagnostic path
Yes, that, sorry english is not my native language.

Engine done 92000miles /148 000 km. So is it many or not for relays? Well I think I change them just in case, should not be pricy.

Thank you for your reply, GottaCruise. Very helpful. :)
 

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'96 Camry v6 XLE, '00 Camry LE
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Greetings,

No apologies needed - your English is excellent, compared to me trying to respond in your native language.. :D

re: relays - 98,000 miles is a good service life: the age of vehicle (relay) and weather/environment also play a role, so I would recommend doing some voltage checks after cleaning up the ground points:

check voltage at the battery (that's your reference voltage),

check battery positive (+) to body frame ground,
check battery positive (+) to motor ground,
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check passenger cabin fuse box positive (+) to body frame ground using a lead that is energized (hot) with key out of ignition,

these readings should be within .2 - .4 volts of reference voltage,

* check passenger cabin fuse box positive (+) to body frame ground using a lead that is (switched) only with key -in- ignition, this reading should also be within .2 - .4 volts of reference voltage, if voltage is lower than .4 volts vs. reference voltage, I'd recommend replacing the relays.

* with battery cables disconnected, pull and physically inspect the relays.

If any apparent discoloring of the relay housing or blades, or fitment of the relay housing against the base is suspect, (e.g. the relay housing is warped), recommend replacing the relays.

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* Also recommend inspecting and cleaning the fuel pump ground ring, located under the carpet access flap in the back of the Sporty - lower the back seats and flip towards the front to fully expose the back cargo area / the carpet access flap where the fuel pump ground ring is located.


Doing these steps to ensure you are getting good voltage to the vehicle is important: establishing good voltage throughout the vehicle allows for confidence in voltage readings taken for any further (sensor) diagnostic steps needed.. :cool:

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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Caribou, Otter, Buffalo
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Just a quick tip..

For those in the world that would not have ready access to electrical parts (relays, works for switches also).... Over time the contacts corrode/oxidize, causing high resistance open circuits..
Remove the relay cover, using a fine burnishing tool (like a small flexible file), or some 600 grit emery cloth, polish the contacts, check and reset the air gap, blast with a CRS cleaner (to remove the oxide dust) and replace the cover. Polish the blades, lightly coat with dielectric grease. You now have a rebuilt relay. ... Philip
 

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'96 Camry v6 XLE, '00 Camry LE
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Thanks Philip, sometimes I forget that all members don't have access to a local dealer..

I'm working on the Sporty this week, will try to (disassemble) one of the old relays and find out what the air gap measurement is & post back here,

Regards,
Robert
 

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Thanks Philip, sometimes I forget that all members don't have access to a local dealer..

I'm working on the Sporty this week, will try to (disassemble) one of the old relays and find out what the air gap measurement is & post back here,

Regards,
Robert
In the old days (LOL), we set the energized contact first (firm contact) then adjusted the open contacts while the arm was in the energized position to between .020/.025" (2x0.012", thickness of burnishing tool)...., some times closer if the coil was weak...

Switch Contact Burnisher/File [BURNISHING TOOL 1/4 INCH] - $3.69 : Pinball Magic, Your Pinball Resource Philip
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Checked all wiring, voltages seem good.

Diagnostcs showed that hall sensor ( is it crankshaft position sensor?) is faulty. I heard about such a thing for first time :D Explains all my problems. especially when cps is hot, resistance is high and engine cant start or when engine stalls, data from sensor is wrong and ecu do not understand what to do.
 

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2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
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Pofkis...
I "see" you are in Lithuania...
You are doing fine with English getting your ideas across.
The CPS is a known failure item with KIA and Hyundai cars (mostly Optima and Sonata models of this period of time).
The engine stalling while on the road is the most common problem.
I hope you get it resolved quickly...
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Well I called genuine parts dealler and they said that cps is 100euros. I was amazed. Place where I have done diagnostics told it should cost ~25euros. ebay.com prices are prity much as they told

SPECTRA 00-04 SPORTAGE 98-03 SEPHIA CARNIVAL MENTOR 98-05 GENUINE CPS SENSOR | eBay

Im just not sure if this one is what I need and its really going to work. Is there any website where I can find what parts fit by VIN?
 

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The heat sink issue is with the Cam Shaft sensor, not the Crank shaft sensor..

To verify the offending unit, when it stall due to heat, apply a wet sponge or rag (to cool), it should start almost immediately.... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The heat sink issue is with the Cam Shaft sensor, not the Crank shaft sensor..

To verify the offending unit, when it stall due to heat, apply a wet sponge or rag (to cool), it should start almost immediately.... Philip
They showed where it is and its deep behind engine near gearbox, so I dont think its camshaft sensor is faulty. Maybe I just mixing names.
 

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They showed where it is and its deep behind engine near gearbox, so I dont think its camshaft sensor is faulty. Maybe I just mixing names.
That is indeed the crank shaft sensor, expensive to replace and rarely faults.

All I am suggesting is that you do the cooling on the Cam sensor before making a final decision....

Easy test, definitive and cost no $$$...... Philip
 

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'96 Camry v6 XLE, '00 Camry LE
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On the US model, at the back of the motor / valve cover, on the Exhaust cam - start at the exhaust manifold -> reach up behind the valve cover on that side..

Again, on the US model the radio condenser is bolted to (1) of the Cam sensor mount bolts, the connectors also run behind the motor, right about at center.

(You don't need to do anything w/ the radio condenser for the test Philip recommended - just letting you know (what) that part is back there, in case you are wondering about it after locating..)

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Took a quick look at the eBay link - the part shown in the picture is in-fact a crank sensor, that inserts into the bell housing behind the exhaust manifold / as you described above.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
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