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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. I have a car that had an engine swap. It's a Kia Optima 2004 LX body that has an engine from a 2003 Optima (the engine has less miles than the body - both under 100 thousand).

The engine says DOHC 16V on it.

It drives, but has, what the mechanic told me, a "sensor" or "computer" problem. It doesn't start right away when it's cold, when you turn the ignition. Every morning I have to sit in it and keep giving it a little gas until it can idle on its own or it will stall. It usually takes 2 to five minutes depending on how cold it is. I also have to do this when I leave work. This problem only happens when the car is cold. Another mechanic tried to fix it but couldn't. When the car is warm it drives fine.

Can this computer problem be fixed by maybe someone who has more Kia knowledge?

I would appreciate any advice. Thanks
 

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2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
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First...has anyone (mechanics) pulled codes on the engine (OBDII codes)??
No mention of it... If you can get the car to a competent mechanic who can monitor the engine while cold you'll probably find the problem...
A bad temperature sensor telling the ECM the engine/air is warmer than what it really is will cause your problem. A dirty IAC (intake air control) valve (especially at close to 100kmiles) can also cause your problems.
It's not so much "KIA knowledge" as it is knowledge of the systems in the newer cars. Your mechanics are being vague in what information they have (or don't).
The replacement engine from a 2003 in your 2004 is the same...BUT...one of the sensors on the replacement engine or the engine wiring harness may have some problems if your original engine did not have this problem. What was the condition of the replacement engine? Was a compression check done before you bought it?
Lots of unknowns..
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Dave, Thank you for responding to my post.

Both mechanics I took my car to have several years experience (but maybe not as much with foreign cars) so they probably are reasonably adequate technicians, and they did pull codes, but they didn't tell me exactly what they were. They just told me that it was a "fuel sensor" problem and they couldn't figure out how to fix it.

Would it be worth it to call them for more detailed information on the exact code?

I don't know if a compression check was done. I was just told that the engine is in working condition from one party, and told that it can be installed from another.

I would rather not take it to a third mechanic because time is running short for me, because I have to sell it because I'm moving out of the country soon. And frankly I'm getting sick of getting the same answer, "I don't know." and then them expecting money for looking at it.

What I really need to know is, is a "fuel sensor" problem a major or minor issue?

In general, how much would this car decline in value for having a problem like this? It appears to be worth about $3000 to $3500, without the problem, considering it's in great shape otherwise. Even if you don't know the exact code, could I get maybe a general estimation of how much I should knock of the selling price due to this "fuel sensor" problem?

Even a super general answer would be great, because I'm not looking to make a killing, I just need to sell it fast, without giving it away. As of now I'm completely in the dark about its value. Would it be somewhere between $800 or $2000?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
This might not mean anything, but I found a receipt from one of the mechanics and it says:

TPS - computer 13 ( or maybe it's a B ) not seeing - hard start when cold

(and there's something else scribbled) : passeger 12 (?) NIC
 

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2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
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Go to Autozone or Advance Auto and have them "pull" them (codes) for FREE...Then come back here and post them..
The TPS (throttle position sensor) is a "valid" item but it usually will cause problems hot or cold. If you bear with us there are enough posters here to solve your problems.
The comment "They just told me that it was a "fuel sensor" problem and they couldn't figure out how to fix it." bothers me as YOU are spending money and they are not providing answers...Looks like you need a mechanic that works on Hyundai/KIAs.
We ARE here to help you and will stay with you till it's cured...
Dave
 

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2008 SpectraSX, 2014 Optima LX,2006 Jeep Liberty, Linux Mint Mate
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BTW...this is a "GLOBAL" forum so "if" you need help from your "new" country the same guys will be here to help. We are from the USA, Canada, Austrailia, The UK, France, Indonesia, The old "Eastern Block"....And we all are here to help.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks so much Dave.

I brought it to Autozone and the guy ran the codes and then told me that it was the Throttle Position Sensor.

The receipt says this:

TPS/Pedal position sensor/switch "A" high input

Probable cause

1. Poor electrical connection
2. Open or short circuit condition
3. Faulty TPS
4. Faulty pedal position sensor

He then gave me a receipt with a part :

Catalog : Duralast
Part#: TPS4146
Price : 39.99

Another thing I didn't mention. Lately it hasn't been doing this, maybe because it has gotten so much colder. Before, in the summer, when I would warm it up and drive it for about ten minutes or so and then shut it off, and then get in the car and drive it again, the car would drive a little funny, like it's having a problem going into the next gear. Then, after some effort (up to 4 or RPMS) it would slide ( in a slightly jerking fashion) into gear. The longer the episode of driving, the more this problem would eventually disappear. Otherwise it would drive fine. This problem only happened when you drove it, stopped it, and then drove it shortly after.

I've had transmission problems before with another car and I'm fairly sure that it isn't the transmission. Strangely enough, this issue has seemed to go away when winter came.

Yesterday it drove beautifully. ( aside from having to warm it up for 5 minutes as usual )

And one last thing, the very last thing that is wrong with the car: the oil light makes a buzzing sound and goes on and off every once in a while, especially while turning. I would put oil in it and it would stop for about a day, only to just do it again.
 
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