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2000 Kia Sportage EX, 2005 Volvo S60R
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Discussion Starter #1
Started my electric fan install today and doing a rad flush at the same time since I pulled the rad to install the fan. Made good progress. All old parts removed, fan mounted to rad and rad reinstalled. Rad flushed out and ready for new coolant. Rad definitely needed to be cleaned out. The drain barely worked when I was trying to empty it the first time. I ended up pulling the entire drain plug out because I was getting impatient and made a huge mess. But got her done. I could have sworn I ordered a 180* thermostat but the one I have says 195* on it, hopefully this will be ok. Complete with jiggle pin but my thermostat sits flat so im just going to install it the same direction as the old one, jiggle pin towards driver side.

Picked up some 1/8" x 1" flat aluminum stock and ended up using it to mount the fan controller and the fan. Mounted the fan controller using the bolt for the washer fluid tank. Nice little spot for it there by the fuse box, close to battery and the fan. Used 4 pieces of the aluminum to mount the fan to the rad using the bolts for the old shroud. The trickiest part was actually getting everything off the motor. I had to unbolt the shroud then unbolt the fan from the bearing then the whole unit lifted out. Then it was easy to get the rad out and I was able to just sneak the rad back in with the fan installed on it. I also removed the entire bearing assembly from the motor and used the shorter belt to run only the alternator, this also creates alot of extra space. Its tight squeezing the rad and fan in as one unit but once its in place and bolted up there is lots of clearance all around. Also managed to install the temp probe AFTER I had reinstalled the rad because I forgot, lol somehow found some space.

Tomorrow I put the new coolant and thermostat in and completely wire the fan. Taken a few pictures on the way Ill post them up tomorrow also.
 

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96 4 DOOR 4WD SPORTAGE, 2014 Hyundai Elantra GT, 2015 Accent Hatchback Sport
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651 Posts
Several folks want to do this so the pictures will be a great help.

Smart move to put the shorter belt on. It really does give you more room.

UPYOURKIA
 

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2000 Kia Sportage EX, 2005 Volvo S60R
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224 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Going to go through the electric manual right now and find what I need but what did you guys use for ground ignition and AC wires?

I am extremely grateful for the free service manual that I found on these forums, however there were some changes over the years and when it comes to pictures and diagrams, my 00 looks a bit different than the truck they used for the book and sometimes it can be hard to tell what youre looking at exactly. ex. The thermostat housing in the manual says it has 2 bolts and the thermostat sits on a roughly 45* angle. my thermostat housing has 3 bolts and sits horizontal. also my evap canister is square and the one pictured in the manual is round. Just something I thought Id point out.
 

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2000 Kia Sportage EX, 2005 Volvo S60R
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224 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
well wired everything in, let her warm up, and nothing.

ign wire i tapped into what i think is the wiper motor power. confirmed 12v hot with ignition on with volt meter. AC wire, well i see one wire leading to compressor and one short one leading out that is grounded to the top of the compressor, so I tapped the wire that was leading to the compressor. I have the ground for the fan controller and the ground for the fan itself in the same spot, on top of the ac compressor. power to the battery. i dont know what i did wrong, and electrical isnt my strong point. i will change the ground and report back

also confirmed fan is working by connecting directly to 12v
 

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2000 Kia Sportage EX, 2005 Volvo S60R
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Discussion Starter #5
i dont know, im pretty sure I have the correct AC wire but even if that was the wrong wire the fan should still run when it gets up to temp. I let the car get up to temp and I adjusted my controller as far as I could both ways and nothing. I guess I have to go through every connection but I was going slow and im pretty sure all my crimps are good. which leaves me with probably a bad controller. DOA in fact. im not sure how to troubleshoot the controller to determine if this is in fact the cause. like i said electrical not my strong point, i figured it couldn't be that hard with instructions. I do have a digital volt/amp/ohm meter.
 

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Caribou, Otter, Buffalo
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also confirmed fan is working by connecting directly to 12v[

Your issue is on the power side, either the module is not getting good 12vdc or the thermo probe is not activating the switch...

Also remember, if you flushed the engine and heater core, not all the fresh water will drain, so the first jug of coolant must be 100% (not diluted)...

.... Philip
 

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2000 Kia Sportage EX, 2005 Volvo S60R
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Discussion Starter #7
Your issue is on the power side, either the module is not getting good 12vdc or the thermo probe is not activating the switch...

Also remember, if you flushed the engine and heater core, not all the fresh water will drain, so the first jug of coolant must be 100% (not diluted)...


.... Philip
Thanks I actually thought about it and did exactly that, first liter of coolant was 100% then mixed the next 2 more and more.

I confirmed 12v on the battery side of the fuse and the controller side of the fuse on the wire from + side of battery to the controller so 12v is making it to the controller, but the fan is also not running with AC on soo... bad relay in the controller? very frusterate now. admittedly I didnt buy a very costly controller however it wasn't the cheapest, i expected to get some time out of it.
 

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'96 Camry v6 XLE, '00 Camry LE
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Recommend changing your common ground point to the main Negative ground tray bolt, look between side of battery and Intake manifold - the Neg. battery cable and motor ground strap bolt to that ground point.

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What brand / model controller did you purchase? If you post that info. up, will try to help.

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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'96 Camry v6 XLE, '00 Camry LE
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Hayden 3647 adjustable fan controller
Fan Controller:

Black = 12v ground, connected to common ground point,

Red = (+) 12v power feed, connected directly to (+) battery terminal bolt,

Yellow = (+) 12v switched feed when Ignition is (ON),

Green = (+) 12v A/C override feed, turns fan ON when A/C is on, regardless of coolant temp.,

* Blue = (+) 12v output to 2nd Fan Motor in a (2) fan setup, not connected if using a (1) fan setup.

Fan wiring:
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Orange = (+) 12v output to Fan Motor, connected to (+) lead on Fan,
(-) lead on Fan, connected to common ground point.

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Temp probe inserted in radiator, near (upper) radiator hose inlet,

Adjustable (white) dial on controller to the left (counter-clockwise) position, once the motor warms up to operating temp / coolant is flowing to radiator, dial is turned gently to the right (clockwise) to the point where the fan(s) turn on.

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If the electric fan does not turn on when the A/C is engaged, check to make sure there is a FUSE in the Orange wire fuse holder.

If a fuse is present and the Fan is not running, check to make sure there is (+) 12v on the YELLOW Ignition wire going to the fan controller.

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To ensure good grounding, relocate your controller and Fan grounds to the battery tray ground point.

Hopefully above makes sense, post back if anything is unclear above,

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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2000 Kia Sportage EX, 2005 Volvo S60R
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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks GottaCruise that all made sense

ok i think i solved the power issue, i think my connection to the ign 12v was not good enough. got that fixed, moved the grounds, cant get the fant to turn on with the AC. haven't tried warming the engine up to see if it turns on from the temp switch yet.

my question is what kind of voltage should i be expecting to see on the + AC wire with the key in the on position and the AC turned on. I just checked the wire i have the AC wire connected to and Im seeing 0.0V with key in the ON position an AC turned on, blower at setting 1. There is a fluctuation of 0.1V occasionally then back down to 0.0V. Am I connected to the right wire?
 

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Caribou, Otter, Buffalo
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For test purposes, use a heat gun to trigger the thermo.

You should have 12vdc on the A/C power line when the A/C is activated....

.... Philip
 

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'96 Camry v6 XLE, '00 Camry LE
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^ +1 ^

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You can tell the if the A/C is working by:

A/C condenser fan in grill will be running,

* A/C compressor clutch will be engaged -> turning when +12v is energizing the compressor clutch (the long thin wire w/ the barrel connector -> leading down to the compressor),

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For testing, a Heat Gun and an InfraRed (IR) therometer are really handy tools for verifying temp ..

* If you have an OBDII scanner, recommend hooking it up, setting to observe Engine Coolant Temp. (ECT) sensor / another method to determine coolant temp & set the engage temp on the controller...

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The Sportys here like to 'cruise' at 185-187 degrees (F) for normal operating temp. - I set the SPAL controller engage fan engage temp @ 195 degrees,

* but I am running a 180 degree thermostat here *

So if you are running a 190 / 195 degree thermostat, you may have to bump up the engage temp. several degrees, e.g. 200 degrees on setting,

Verifying consistent engage temp. and fan operation are key to a issue-free install, I would concentrate on that, vs. the A/C override first.

Again, any questions, post up, will try to help,

Regards,
GottaCruise
 

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2000 Kia Sportage EX, 2005 Volvo S60R
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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
so weird I can only see one wire going to the AC compressor so i figured that had to be it. but it is def seeing 0.0V with ignition and AC on.

So what if i put the AC override wire from the controller and hook it to the power wire for the AC condenser fan. This wire I just confirmed sees 12V with ignition and AC on. is this an acceptable fix?
 

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2000 Kia Sportage EX, 2005 Volvo S60R
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Discussion Starter #15
yes the one long thin wire with a barrel connector that comes from the passenger front area of the engine bay. that is what i tried to use for AC override but not working. I will skip AC override and make sure the fan is running first with temp switch. I dont use AC much anyways.

And yes I have been monitoring engine temps with TORQUE app
 

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2000 Kia Sportage EX, 2005 Volvo S60R
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Discussion Starter #16
It lives! the 12v ign wire must have been the culprit. fan now triggers with heat probe. seems to be working right have it activating when the coolant gets to 87*C and shuts off at 85*C (188*F and 185*F). The thermostat I bought, the box even says its a 180* thermo, but stamped on the frame it said 195*so im still not sure. Idling in the garage everything seems to be working now to take it for a spin and see how she holds up.
 

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Good fix, If the thermo is stamped 195*, that what it is.. the box is not the factory one..

.... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks Philip! This is embarassing but for the greater good of hopefully preventing someone else from making my same mistake... I used one of those "self stripping" clamp on splicers where you put it on the wire you want to tap into then put the end of the new wire beside it, and you close the little plastic bit and the metal inside slices through the insulation and makes the connection, in theory. But i just used the plastic to close it and the plastic wasnt strong enough to push the metal through, so i had to open the connector up and actually clamp the metal itself with a pair of pliers and this pushed it in properly. all good now.

ok took it for a spin. seems ok and yes i believe it is a 195* thermo now. cruisin around city streets seems to hold around 90* (194*F). Did a couple of pulls up the steepest paved hill near me, saw it spike to 94* (201*F) then gradually drop back down to 90-91*C range. Also did a pull up the hill, got it to 94*C then at the top of the hill pulled over and idled. Within 2 mins the temp was down to 89*C (192*F). Then it would drop to 88*C and seem to just sit there for a long time with the fan running. Should I turn the fan up a bit more so its shutting off at the 90*C mark? Right now I think the fan is shutting off at 87*C or a low low 88*C but since the thermo is closed by this point the coolant stops circulating and thats why the temp just sits at 88*C for a long time with the fan running. Is this correct?

off to button up the loose ends and ill snap a pic of the final product, thanks for all the help guys!
 

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Those plastic tap connectors are the worst things ever invented, expect to have further issues with is as the wires corrode inside the wire covering...

... Philip
 

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'96 Camry v6 XLE, '00 Camry LE
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Nice job tspot, congrats on the install.

re: engage temp., best to establish a baseline, from what you wrote yours is about 192 - 194 degrees (f), then I would set the fan engage point 5 - 7 degrees higher, that way the fan will not run continuously.

* Baseline for fan engagement on most (snap-switch electric fan equipped) 4 cylinder vehicles is 200 degrees (f), e.g. Toyota, Honda, etc. - so kicking up the engage temp. a few degrees will not hurt anything, this is FYI.

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If the A/C compressor was working prior to the electric fan install, and you used a quick-tap (plastic) connector on the compressor clutch wire, recommend checking for voltage at a point -before- the tap splice: the tap may have cut/damaged the wiring.. That wire is pretty thin to begin with, you may have to splice in a new piece of wire -> out to a point near the clamp on top of the compressor. A 14 gauge wire should do it, IIRC.

If you can, soldering connections and using shrink-wrap tubing over the solder points is best, but if not, providing the quick-tap is installed inside the passenger cabin, not exposed, and is working ok, then would just make sure it is securely fastened to the existing wire loom with electrical tape and/or plastic cable ties: make the wiring added as durable / factory as possible, in short make it a durable, professional install for worry-free operation.

Congrats on the install !

GottaCruise
 
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