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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, I've gone through and read many of you have had this issue but yet nobody has came back to say what fixed it which frustrates me to no end because I need that answer right about now!!! I have a 2011 Kia Sportage, 2.4, 2WD. I changed the alternator last weekend and everything has been fine since. Other night on my way home with no warning signs the car died when coming to a stop. It started right back up every single time after but only if I gave it gas. If it goes less than 1000rpm it dies. I've replaced the camshaft sensors, cleaned the throttle body butterfly valve area for gunk, checked timing chain which is in GREAT shape and super tight still, and all the hoses are good, no leaks or collapsed hoses. Tomorrow I'm going to clean and possibly replace the MAP sensor and try the idle control valve. Any suggestions???? Would love some help right about now. PLEASE!!!
 

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Can you possibly direct me to the location of a couple things?
Oil control valve
Idle control valve
I'm not understanding how you don't know where the oil control valves are, given that you have already previously replaced the cam sensors and removed the valve cover to check the timing chain. You must have documentation to be able to have found the cam sensors, no?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm not understanding how you don't know where the oil control valves are, given that you have already previously replaced the cam sensors and removed the valve cover to check the timing chain. You must have documentation to be able to have found the cam sensors, no?
I found them both. Took them both out and cleaned them and got them put back in
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm not understanding how you don't know where the oil control valves are, given that you have already previously replaced the cam sensors and removed the valve cover to check the timing chain. You must have documentation to be able to have found the cam sensors, no?
I took out all those sensors and cleaned them as well as the MAF sensor and put it all back together and it started so I drove it around town a little bit and then the steering got stuff and several lights came on the dash so I pulled over and shut it off and tried to start it up again but now all it's doing is a clicking noise trying to start.
 

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I took out all those sensors and cleaned them as well as the MAF sensor and put it all back together and it started so I drove it around town a little bit and then the steering got stuff and several lights came on the dash so I pulled over and shut it off and tried to start it up again but now all it's doing is a clicking noise trying to start.
Sounds like the auxiliary belt came off causing the stiff steering and lack of charging, and now the battery is flat.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Okay, alternator went out on our 2011 Kia Sportage so I replaced it. Few months later it stopped running properly and CEL came on for a sensor so I replaced the sensor and everything was fine for 2 days. The positive terminal wasn't put back tightly so it ended up killing the new alternator that I had somehow. Now I have a second new alternator installed and am I on the 3rd new battery but the alternator is still not charging the battery. Is there a fuse that I'm not able to find? If so, where? All the wires are good, I've already checked them all. The belt is good and tight, no cracks. All the fuses I have been able to see look good. Would greatly appreciate a little guidance in my current situation
 

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.... Now I have a second new alternator installed and am I on the 3rd new battery but the alternator is still not charging the battery. ...
You've posted about replacing lots of parts, and that various things 'are good'. But that doesn't mean anything to someone who's not looking over your shoulder and has no access to your vehicle. What's needed for anyone to offer advice is hard facts, which would mainly be diagnostic test results. Without that it's all just pure guesswork.

So if you post the static (vehicle off), and running (idling) battery voltage, that would be at least a starting point. Also, is the battery charge warning dash light on now, and has it ever been on previously?
 

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Okay, alternator went out on our 2011 Kia Sportage so I replaced it. Few months later it stopped running properly and CEL came on for a sensor so I replaced the sensor and everything was fine for 2 days.
What was the code and what sensor was replaced - BTW, most often a sensor code does not indicate that the sensor itself is bad, but rather the signal from it is out of synch. i.e. a camshaft position sensor fault is usually a problem with the timing, not a failed sensor.
The positive terminal wasn't put back tightly so it ended up killing the new alternator that I had somehow. Now I have a second new alternator installed and am I on the 3rd new battery but the alternator is still not charging the battery. Is there a fuse that I'm not able to find? If so, where? All the wires are good, I've already checked them all. The belt is good and tight, no cracks. All the fuses I have been able to see look good. Would greatly appreciate a little guidance in my current situation
Follow @kiaguy002 advice and check the main connections, battery to chassis, engine to chassis, battery to starter and main fuse etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You've posted about replacing lots of parts, and that various things 'are good'. But that doesn't mean anything to someone who's not looking over your shoulder and has no access to your vehicle. What's needed for anyone to offer advice is hard facts, which would mainly be diagnostic test results. Without that it's all just pure guesswork.

So if you post the static (vehicle off), and running (idling) battery voltage, that would be at least a starting point. Also, is the battery charge warning dash light on now, and has it ever been on previously?
Yes it's been on previously. Changed the alternator and charged the battery all the way. The battery light went off after I did all that. Drove it for 4 hours and then the battery light came back on so I pulled over and shut it off. When I tried to restart the car, the battery was dead.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You've posted about replacing lots of parts, and that various things 'are good'. But that doesn't mean anything to someone who's not looking over your shoulder and has no access to your vehicle. What's needed for anyone to offer advice is hard facts, which would mainly be diagnostic test results. Without that it's all just pure guesswork.

So if you post the static (vehicle off), and running (idling) battery voltage, that would be at least a starting point. Also, is the battery charge warning dash light on now, and has it ever been on previously?
I just dropped off the battery to get recharged so I can start getting hards fact readouts with the multimeter and see what the voltage is. Thank you for your guidance. I'll get back to you shortly with the voltage on the battery with the car off and then with it on. Thank you again so very much for your time and guidance. I honestly do appreciate this a great deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What was the code and what sensor was replaced - BTW, most often a sensor code does not indicate that the sensor itself is bad, but rather the signal from it is out of synch. i.e. a camshaft position sensor fault is usually a problem with the timing, not a failed sensor.

Follow @kiaguy002 advice and check the main connections, battery to chassis, engine to chassis, battery to starter and main fuse etc.
I didn't get a code until AFTER the alternator was changed and we bought the new battery. After that, the code was P0017, bank 1 Sensor B. It was starting but would die unless I held my foot on the gas. So I pulled the sensors out and cleaned them all and replaced a cpl that were in bad shape which was the camshaft sensors and the variable valve timing sensors. So the VVT sensors are new, and camshaft sensors are new. The others I simply cleaned up and put back. I checked the timing chain and it was nice n tight and in good shape. So I put everything back together and to my surprise it started right up. I then drove it for several hours and then the battery light, abs light, traction control, and incline light came on but NO check engine light. So I shut it off, tried starting it up but the battery was dead. I got a jump and it started right up. Got home, took the battery to AutoZone to be charged again. Put it back in the car and it drained again. So I had the 'new' alternator checked and it tested bad. So we got a new one and put it in. My husband drove it for 6-8 hours and the battery finally died again. We took the battery to get charged again and put it back in the car and drove it home night before last and am trying to get to the bottom of this.
 

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Yes it's been on previously. Changed the alternator and charged the battery all the way. The battery light went off after I did all that. Drove it for 4 hours and then the battery light came back on so I pulled over and shut it off. When I tried to restart the car, the battery was dead.
Ok, thats the type of helpful diagnostic information we're looking for. IMO there's a good likelihood that you are the victim of shoddy alternator rebuilding, which is not at all an unusual thing. They send a boatload of them to China, where 10 year old kids get paid extremely low wages to rebuild them. From what you wrote, it sounds like that alt wasn't rebuilt correctly and it wet the bed during the 4 hours of driving. Take it back to where you bought it for testing and hopefully replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok, thats the type of helpful diagnostic information we're looking for. IMO there's a good likelihood that you are the victim of shoddy alternator rebuilding, which is not at all an unusual thing. They send a boatload of them to China, where 10 year old kids get paid extremely low wages to rebuild them. From what you wrote, it sounds like that alt wasn't rebuilt correctly and it wet the bed during the 4 hours of driving. Take it back to where you bought it for testing and hopefully replacement.
Well I took the 2nd 'new' alternator off and had it tested and as you said...it indeed tested bad. So I'm going to put the 3rd 'new' alternator on this morning and we'll see what happens. And thank you for your time and help. I can't show you how much I appreciate this. I'll post back shortly to update you with what happens. Thank you so much for leading me on this long journey. Hopefully this time I can get a good rebuilt alternator!!!!
 

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Ok, thats the type of helpful diagnostic information we're looking for. IMO there's a good likelihood that you are the victim of shoddy alternator rebuilding, which is not at all an unusual thing. They send a boatload of them to China, where 10 year old kids get paid extremely low wages to rebuild them. From what you wrote, it sounds like that alt wasn't rebuilt correctly and it wet the bed during the 4 hours of driving. Take it back to where you bought it for testing and hopefully replacement.
Just a question... IF I get a good alternator this time and start driving around and then this happens again, would it possible that something on MY end is killing these alternators? Keeping in mind that the check engine light isn't coming on when this is happening. It came on the one time a cpl weeks back but I replaced a couple sensors and cleaned up the other ones related to that code and it's never come back on since then.
With all that being said, I've been wondering if there was something that could be killing the alternator's on my end or if I had just gotten the grand luck of getting 2 bad ones in a row. I'd love for them to be able to test the alternator before I leave the store with it but unfortunately I guess I have the type of alternator that has to be sent off to get tested.
 

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Just a question... IF I get a good alternator this time and start driving around and then this happens again, would it possible that something on MY end is killing these alternators? Keeping in mind that the check engine light isn't coming on when this is happening. It came on the one time a cpl weeks back but I replaced a couple sensors and cleaned up the other ones related to that code and it's never come back on since then.
With all that being said, I've been wondering if there was something that could be killing the alternator's on my end or if I had just gotten the grand luck of getting 2 bad ones in a row. I'd love for them to be able to test the alternator before I leave the store with it but unfortunately I guess I have the type of alternator that has to be sent off to get tested.
Is it a NEW alternator, or a so called reconditioned one?

What you're experiencing is typical of the cheap reconditioned ones.
 
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