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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My positioning lights are now officially running as DRLs.



After 2 full weeks of testing period, I built and installed the second module (Passenger side). I must warn you all, you need lots of patience and skills in electronics to complete below project.

This installation is for Canadian Sorentos, although it can be easily adapted to the US version (See comments at the bottom). Before going into the beef, let me define a few specs:


  1. DRL Reduced OEM Voltage (High Beam) : 2.32 Volts
  2. High Beam Voltage: 14.5 Volts
  3. Parking Lights Voltage (Input of LED controller): ~13 volts.
  4. Positioning Lights (Output of LED controller): 12.5 Volts and 60 miliAmps
  5. High Beams ALWAYS turn on along with the Low Beams.
  6. Low Beams ALWAYS turn on the Parking Lights (Positioning LED eyebrows and tail lights)
  7. LED controller outputs 4 wires, 2 for LED eyebrow (Red/Black) and 2 for 3-led yellow parking light (Yellow/Blue)
Since I didn't want to run any cable into the headlamp housing, I had to boost the OEM DRL voltage (2.3 volts) to 12.5 volts while running on DRL mode but also disable my circuit when Parking lights (Only or LB or HB+LB ) were ON, so LED eyebrows would not received voltage from 2 separate sources simultaneously.

Something I realized after my initial exploration, the LED controller monitors the current going through it, meaning that the current returning from the led strip MUST come through the LED controller. If the current flows back across another ground circuit, LED EYEBROWS WILL NOT TURN ON. When parking lights are off (No input voltage), LED controller opens both lines to the LED strip.

Taking all that into account, I came up with this circuit:



Materials:

2 DC to DC Voltage Booster (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B011EBSKK0/ref=pe_386430_121528420_TE_dp_1)
2 Voltage Regulator LM7812 (https://www.amazon.com/L7812CV-LM7812-L7812-Voltage-Regulator/dp/B00O072KB6)
4 Diodes (50v 1 Amp)
2 Double Pole mini relay 12vDC 5Amp (G5V-2-DC12: Omron : Double Pole Double Throw 2A 12 Volt: Electromechanical)
1 Dual Perforated Mini PBC board (https://www.radioshack.com/products/dual-mini-board)
2 JST-PH (2mm) Jumper 4-Wire Assembly (JST-PH (2mm) Jumper 4-Wire Assembly (15cm wire) in Canada Robotix)
Cable 28-30 AWG (Multiple Colors)
Shrinking Tube according to the AWG

How it works:

Relay bridges simultaneously both poles (Positive and negative from High Beam) when is not receiving signal from the parking lights (+) and opens the circuit when parking lights are ON. Voltage regulator ensures the input voltage at the booster does not surpass 12 Volts. Booster increases the voltage from 2.32 to 12.5 (When on DRL only) and from 12 to 12.5 Volts (If raise the high beams while lights are off ). Diodes prevent current from flowing back into any of the the sources through the positive wire.

Given that I had to place my module in between the LED controller and the Load (LED strip), I used a very similar connector type (Male/Female) as the OEM connector. Note you must use the 4 wires of the connectors, 2 for LED eyebrows and 2 for 3-LED yellow parking light (These 2 go straight from controller to LED strip harness, they DO NOT enter the boosting module)

Female connector goes into the led controller and Male goes to the LED strip connector. It can all be removed without leaving any trace and even if the module breaks, it will keep the circuit between the LED controller and the LED strip working as OEM.

Installation:

1) Preparation: Remove the low and high beam dust caps. Remove the Low and High beam bulbs. Remove the fuse box cover (Driver Side) and the Coolant container (Passenger side).



2) Disconnect the headlamp harness connector. Lower-right pin (Housing socket) is empty, but there is a rubber cap tucked from behind, stick a thin Allen Key to push the rubber cap out of the slot into the headlight housing.



3) Using a wire, fish the Parking Light Signal cable (From module) through the newly created pin slot by sticking the wire through the open pin slot and out through the Low Beam bulb opening. Twist the cable around the pin (Parking Lights +) next to it. Place harness connector back in.

Pin over to parking lights.jpg

4)Remove the socket cap from the High beam socket. Run the DRL voltage cables (From module) through the socket cap and hook them both to each terminal (Positive and Ground) of the High Beam socket.

Lever.jpg
Power from HB.jpg

5) Stick your hand (Palm up) into the headlight housing and disconnect the LED strip harness from the LED controller. Plug in the Female harness (from module) into the LED controller and the Male harness (from module) to the LED strip harness.

LED controller Harness.jpg
Module Connected.jpg

Other/US Models

There is good and bad news.

Bad: There is no voltage source inside the headlamp housing to power the LED strips, thus you will need to run an ACC wire from the fuse box into the housing through one of the unused pins of the Headlamp harness connector.

Good: Less complicated circuit.

Warning: DO NOT let any tool/part lingering over the engine or somewhere around the engine compartment. If something falls down it's nearly impossible to bring it back.
 

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That's some crazy figuring out,out of my comfort zone.You da man.If you mass produce them as plug and play I'm in:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
That's some crazy figuring out,out of my comfort zone.You da man.If you mass produce them as plug and play I'm in:thumbsup:
I can ship them ready to install but since we aren't tapping nor splicing any cable, there is a part (Bullet 3, 4 and 5) you would need to do yourself, unless you want me to install them ;):D:nerd:
 

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I can ship them ready to install but since we aren't tapping nor splicing any cable, there is a part (Bullet 3, 4 and 5) you would need to do yourself, unless you want me to install them ;):D:nerd:
That circuit board,would it be exposed to the elements or incased in something or inside something?
 

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I can ship them ready to install but since we aren't tapping nor splicing any cable, there is a part (Bullet 3, 4 and 5) you would need to do yourself, unless you want me to install them ;):D:nerd:
That circuit board,would it be exposed to the elements or incased in something or inside something?I think your north of me.I vacation in the north end at the cottage in the summer.Durability test till the summer and if they pass count me in.May even drop in for upgrade as to not [email protected] it up.Deal?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
That circuit board,would it be exposed to the elements or incased in something or inside something?I think your north of me.I vacation in the north end at the cottage in the summer.Durability test till the summer and if they pass count me in.May even drop in for upgrade as to not [email protected] it up.Deal?
The headlamp housing is completely sealed, nothing goes in or out. I did apply hot silicon to the bottom of the PCB board so contacts are not exposed (although there is nothing inside that could make contact with). Did not build an enclosure to allow the chips to cool off. But you could wrap it in foam paper to allow air circulation.

I'm near 401 and 407 (West GTA)...Deal!
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)

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I wonder of these things:

1. How do they look in bright outdoors? Are they pretty bright?
2. Does the LED eyebrows now shine brighter than OEM?
3. If yes to #2 , won't the LED bulbs burn out earlier since they're just designed for a lower voltage/current/amp?
4. Will this work on a 2015 Sorento?
5. If yes to #1 and #4 , are you driving sometime to Edmonton this Spring/Summer? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I wonder of two things:

1. How do they look in bright outdoors? Are they pretty bright?
2. Does the LED eyebrows now shine brighter than OEM?
3. If yes to #2 , won't the LED bulbs burn out earlier since they're just designed for a lower voltage/current/amp?
4. Will this work on a 2015 Sorento?
5. If yes to #1 and #4 , are you driving sometime to Edmonton this Spring/Summer? :)
1. They are perfect, not too bright not too dimmed. You can see them from the distance as a regular DRL. (will take a day Pic)

2. It's hard to tell exactly, to my eyes it's exactly the same.

3. OEM LEDs run on 12.5~12.7 volts at 63 miliAmps....for safety, I'm limiting the output voltage to 12.3 volts. I could make them brighter but I didn't want to push my luck.

4. I don't know, you would have to run same exercise as I did...it's tedious and time-consuming, a test of patience. Took me a few days to lay down all possible scenarios and limitations. Not to mention I burned a couple of boosters due to under-dimensioned circuit capacity.



hahah no, although I love driving I don't think I'll go to Edmonton (Driving) any time soon.
 

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Note you must use the 4 wires of the connectors, 2 for LED eyebrows and 2 for 3-LED yellow parking light (These 2 go straight from controller to LED strip harness, they DO NOT enter the boosting module)
Josuet, what's the pinout of this connector?

Thanks,
Val
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Josuet, what's the pinout of this connector?

Thanks,
Val
Bullet seven of the specs:

7. LED controller outputs 4 wires, 2 for LED eyebrow (Red/Black) and 2 for 3-led yellow parking light (Yellow/Blue).

For led eyebrow I can tell you red is positive and black is ground. I'm not sure about the other 2, didn't care really.
 
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