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09 Pro-Ceed 1.4 ZR7
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346 Posts
Apologies AyJay. My facelift SW brake starts clicking early on in its travel. I presumed the whole range was the same. The only car I've ever driven that didn't click from the start was a hired renault, just after they introduced pushing the complete plipper into a slot and pressing a 'GO' button. Everything about that car worried me, especially when I worked out that you had to press the 'GO' button to make it switch off.
My parkbrake moves around an inch or so vertically before the first click. You can feel it take up the slack and it will tighten as brake is applied.
I found there was quite a bit of slack in the cable around the time of the second (20k) service. They ommitted to adjust it at the sevice and a few weeks later it was bothering me enough to go back and get them to do it.

They agreed it should have been done as it was coming up to around 45 degrees before being effective.

For normal flat level ground 1 click is fine although i can get it to 2 easily enough. For an incline it will need 2 or 3 clicks to secure the car. I dont see the point on yanking it up tight as all im doing is over stressing the cable making it stretch and needing more adjustment.

Finally, being a bit anal i guess, i dont normally just pull the handle up, i press in the button so i dont get the clicking as i think it can over a very long time wear the teeth possibly allowing the brake to accidentally disengage. Ive done this for so many years now its second nature. :unsure:
 

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2010 ceed sw2 and a bit BD59FHY
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95 Posts
Hey, youve just made me realise, in normal driving conditions, I'm anal as well.
It must have been Mrs Maul, my driving instructoress all those 40 years ago in a Mark one Ford Escort saying "push the button in, I don't want you wearing my handbrake out". I must only click it up for 'analytical purposes.
 

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2010 Kia Cee'd 2 - 124BHP 1.6petrol
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560 Posts
Well I just tried to tighten my handbrake, and with little success! the compartment is too thin for a socket, to thin to use a pair or pliers, and so I resorted to using the 10/12mm spanner out the boot! I kept thinking I had grabbed, it and kept twizzling and I spent a while trying with no real gain... any suggestions?
 

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Well I just tried to tighten my handbrake, and with little success! the compartment is too thin for a socket, to thin to use a pair or pliers, and so I resorted to using the 10/12mm spanner out the boot! I kept thinking I had grabbed, it and kept twizzling and I spent a while trying with no real gain... any suggestions?
Yes, use the correct method of adjustment. At the handbrake drums within the rear disks.
 

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Hi Deeps,

fair comment it was the next direction I was heading...

are you referencing the post made by ida01ro above? with the link? is that the best method to follow? I ask as I cant actually access that link at the moment due to works security on the net...
If you are happy to remove the rear wheels, it is a doddle and takes a few minutes each side. Remove a rear wheel, rotate the disk so that the rubber plug is at the bottom, Remove the plug turn the adjuster with a screwdriver until the disk has a slight resistance to turning, and replace the plug and wheel. Repeat on the other side.
 

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2010 Kia Cee'd 2 - 124BHP 1.6petrol
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560 Posts
As much as I am happy to try that, I will be vain on my car accessories behalf, and say I dont want to use and scratch / make a mess of the jack unnecessarily, so I may just pop down a dealer and ask them to adjust it for me.

Trying to get that stupid spanner into the adjustment slot under the armrest was a nuisance and an irritation, granted the handbrake feels slightly tighter and now click in at about 6 clicks rather than 7 - 8, so its made a sligh difference, but as you say, will be much better off getting it done properly...
 

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Ceed 2011 SW 1.6d Handbrake slackness

I have had the huge slack on my handbrake adjusted FOC at two services. I insisted it is a mechanical fault - is there not an automatic take up to stop this happening - my brakes are not worn! Due another service soon and handbrake is again so slack that when released fully the dash brake light comes on sometimes. Design prob somewhere!
 

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Kia Cee'd 1.6 CRDi 2007
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Several of the posts here provide an incorrect answer to the question.

The handbrake has two adjustments:

1. Via taking up the rear brake shoe wear. As others have pointed out these are relatively easy to access BUT the shoes should not wear in normal use (since you don't apply your handbrake when moving do you?). So this is NOT the place to take up handbrake cable slack. If you adjust here you will probably remove just shoe freeplay and end up with your brakes binding.

2. Via the cable length adjuster. Cable stretch is the most common reason for a slack handbrake so this is most likely the correct place to adjust if you've not been using your handbrake when the car is moving. The cable adjuster is accessed from within the centre armrest. It is almost impossible to get a spanner on the adjuster (well done Kia) so good luck with that.
 
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