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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
In this part I will show you how to install power wire for the amplifier.

I chose the same route as the original car cables and again I think it is the easiest way.

I started at the back. First I got the power cable under the rear door panel.

I pulled the door panel towards me and a single plastic "popper" (marked on the picture, on the inside of the panel) let go.
I was able to get a 35mm2 power cable behind it with no problems at all.

Also, to get the cable behind the panel it is much much easier to remove the seat belt holder. You need a socket wrench and a socket size 14. Easy to remove, easy to reinstall.

Before you try to put the panel back on its position, check for the plastic popper as it likes to stay on the car chasis and not in the plastic panel. Remove it from the car chasis, put it on its place on the plastic panel and push the panel in its place.




One one side I have 35mm2 power cable and one 2x2,5mm2 speaker cable





On the other side I have 2 RCA cables, remote cable and one 2x2,5mm2 speaker cable.


There are some original plastic cable holders for the original wiring and with all this additionaly installed it seemed that there is still some place left in the cable holders --> the plastics with "ceed" on it will go back with no problem as it is designed to go over the plastic cable holders (and since I got all the cables in the holders = no problem).



All the cables in the back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Now to the more tricky part.

I checked for holes in the firewall towards the engine bay but couldn't find any, so I decided to wire the power cable the same way the original cables go.

The exit the car above the "engine bay boot opener" handle. To make your job easier, remove the plastic under the steering wheel (pictures in part 1).

On the outside, you have to take some plastics off.



All together there are 6 screws to remove. Unfortunatly the picture was taken to close, so only 3 marked. The other three are where the arrows point.



All of them are regular "+" screws, 5 of them metal, the one in the top center position is plastic and a bit hard to unscrew (I didn't screw it, I pulled it out with it's socket and than just put it back when reinstalling it).

The lowest screw (where the arrow points) and all three to the right of the picture have plastic sockets which you have to remove (help yourself with a screwdriver).

When you are done, remove the plastic and you will see the original cables.


Remove some more plastic (just unhook it from the car chasis - no worry, it will pop right were it is supposed to when reinstalling, the only thing you should look for are the edges, if they are in the correct position when reinstalling it)

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is how it looks under the plastic, you can see the big original wiring.



I made a hole in the rubber for the power cable. ALWAYS make sure that the cable is going trough a rubber or something and not trough bare steel as it can damage the cable and burn your car (worst case scenario, but still).



I've put some plastic cable protection over the power cable.



 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The cable is protected from the start till the end.



In the engine bay.



Now just reinstall the removed plastic over the wheel. About a 5min job if you take your time.

Find a place for your fuse (I've silicone-glued mine on the top of the battery. Not the best place but I was in a hurry.)



At that is left to do is to make a ground for the amplifier (will make some pictures soon) and additional ground cable from the battery to the car chasis (preferably the same size as the power cable, but not neccessary if you use small power cable...for example 10mm2).
 

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awesome display of skill and courage. I hope you won't have any problems with warranty should the need arise.

how much would you charge for this, material and work?
 

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Very nice job indeed!

I have done the same thing with the power cables. I couldnt either find a hole throught in the engine bay.

Another thing I would like to add is that I did change the headunit aswell and I can tell you and everyone else which is thinking about it.

FORGET IT!

Apparantly they have integrated some sensors in the siemens headunit so if you change it to a 2din pioneer/panasonic/sony whatever. Then you will loose the speedo/trip/dingding belt warning/power steering adjustment/automatic door lock and perhaps some other thing I havent noticed. I have changed back to the original headunit and its a relief that everything worked as normal again except for the bloody ding ding belt warning and the automatic door lock (however the automatic door lock can probably be disabled by putting a fuse in the left side inside the car as you can see in the first guide)


If anyone else has discovered a way to use aftermarket head unit without loosing speedo and etc. Please share!


Thanks again for the great guide and pictures you´ve done crammond!
You have inspired me to fix even better sound in the doors as per guide no.1 :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Don't stick it :)

I'll make a new post with a PDF files attached with everything in one place so it will be easier to find for everyone.

It will be done till the end of this weekend (16.11.2008)

Than that should get sticky :)
 

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99 Kia Elan 1.8L
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Don't stick it :)

I'll make a new post with a PDF files attached with everything in one place so it will be easier to find for everyone.

It will be done till the end of this weekend (16.11.2008)

Than that should get sticky :)
Crammond,
Brilliant work.
It's a sticky now, and you can update and edit as you'd like, or if you'd like the threads combined etc. just let me know.
 

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A tip for the powercable, if you have a coupeheater (bad translation?) you can use that hole for the powercable to.

About the headunit, and losing speedo, trip, etc.
I changed my headunit a couple of months ago, and i havnt had any problem with that.
 

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Very nice job indeed!

I have done the same thing with the power cables. I couldnt either find a hole throught in the engine bay.

Another thing I would like to add is that I did change the headunit aswell and I can tell you and everyone else which is thinking about it.

FORGET IT!

Apparantly they have integrated some sensors in the siemens headunit so if you change it to a 2din pioneer/panasonic/sony whatever. Then you will loose the speedo/trip/dingding belt warning/power steering adjustment/automatic door lock and perhaps some other thing I havent noticed. I have changed back to the original headunit and its a relief that everything worked as normal again except for the bloody ding ding belt warning and the automatic door lock (however the automatic door lock can probably be disabled by putting a fuse in the left side inside the car as you can see in the first guide)


If anyone else has discovered a way to use aftermarket head unit without loosing speedo and etc. Please share!


Thanks again for the great guide and pictures you´ve done crammond!
You have inspired me to fix even better sound in the doors as per guide no.1 :)
I too have installed my car audio, but with the car stereo as standard, and got past that!
I do not work or the speedometer nor the odometer, or the notice of the belts ...
Someone would know that I've done wrong, or should it change??
Thank you!

Sorry for mi english...
My connections are this:

I've done wrong so I would not run the odometer, velocimeter, etc...?
Thanks family!!!
 
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