Providing what we know of U.S. service requirements from Kia America for the earlier of the two service options where more than one service interval exists.

Need to preface all of this by asking what kind of driving you're doing, and understand that with zero service history, we have to ask what you've had done in the past to give some context to your questions before answering.

For some of these items, you may be too early to do them again, or if not yet done, you may already be late:

1. Unless you've got an oil burner, these iridium plugs usually look quite good at 100K miles.
2. Has this been done before? If so, miles? Kia says REPLACE at 75K miles.
3. Has this been done before? Kia says REPLACE at 60K and 90K miles.
4. Any signs of uneven tire wear? Steering stays relatively well centered? Last checked when?
5. Has this been done before? My rule is test before replacing. Kia says INSPECT at 60K and 90K miles.
6. Had this been done before? Kia says REPLACE at 60K and 90K miles.
7. Great moneymaker, especially depending upon method used. A good DIY project for about 15% of the cost in supplies. Not even in the Kia recommendations. To date, there has yet to be a borescope before-after produced here or any of the other Kia forums that show that it's sufficiently effective, and each vehicle's valve situation is different to begin with.

 

Providing what we know of U.S. service requirements from Kia America for the earlier of the two service options where more than one service interval exists.

Need to preface all of this by asking what kind of driving you're doing, and understand that with zero service history, we have to ask what you've had done in the past to give some context to your questions before answering.

For some of these items, you may be too early to do them again, or if not yet done, you may already be late:

1. Unless you've got an oil burner, these iridium plugs usually look quite good at 100K miles.
2. Has this been done before? If so, miles? Kia says REPLACE at 75K miles.
3. Has this been done before? Kia says REPLACE at 60K and 90K miles.
4. Any signs of uneven tire wear? Steering stays relatively well centered? Last checked when?
5. Has this been done before? My rule is test before replacing. Kia says INSPECT at 60K and 90K miles.
6. Had this been done before? Kia says REPLACE at 60K and 90K miles.
7. Great moneymaker, especially depending upon method used. A good DIY project for about 15% of the cost in supplies. Not even in the Kia recommendations. To date, there has yet to be a borescope before-after produced here or any of the other Kia forums that show that it's sufficiently effective, and each vehicle's valve situation is different to begin with.

My daily driving routine primarily consists of city commuting, along with the occasional highway journey, such as an annual trip from Toronto to New Jersey. I ensure regular oil changes at the Kia dealership and periodic alignment and filter replacements, but beyond that, no other maintenance or service is performed.

I'm considering whether to have the services done at a Kia Dealer or by a local mechanic. I plan to purchase the materials from the Kia dealer and only pay for the labor at the local mechanic.

 

I wouldn't pay the exorbitant prices the dealer charges. Plug change on a 4 cylinder is not major surgery. I would go to a mechanic you trust for everything.

 

Yep I'd say they're valid and worth doing - especially if not done before. It's too early for plugs, I'd skip "fuel induction".

Make sure the shop you go to takes customer-supplied parts - very few shops near me seem to do that and mark up labor when they do. Price it out either way.

 

Are these recommendations valid

Just spinning numbers out of my head I'm guessing $205.00 Canadian ($150 USD) for materials for all 7 items, so your looking at $1375.00 Canadian in labor, probably 6 hours, by the repair book times they follow, at $225/hr is the going rate and sounds reasonable for a professional, clean shop w/free coffee, TV and WIFI.
In todays world by saving receipts you still maintain warranty coverage w/o having to use dealer shops. You could take your list and price alternative (reputable) independent shop for an estimate (make sure you tell them you want top grade lubricants/etc.)
However if you feel obligated or safer with the dealership that's your decision. As stated above, if your car is running and steering fine w/o uneven tire wear you can skip the plugs, alignment and fuel induction service (it's likely a $15.00 spray can of cleaner).

Times like this it great to be an avid DIY'er, I have to be as I have multiple vehicles and my labor/hobby is free to me..

 

I can do all that work myself except for alignment and save

 

I would say do all shown BUT not at a KIA dealership. I would be sure to use all OEM parts though. As mentioned, find a reliable, competent, local mechanic that will install OEM parts that you supply.

 

There are Many aftermarket parts that meet or exceed OEM standards(which in a lot of cases are minimal) at much less cost. Most shops will Not warranty a job if the customer supplies their own parts, even if OEM. Gotta make money somehow. Always demand that whoever does the work save the old parts they replace. Had one shop give me a hard time about that; made me very suspicious!
If there's something you can't do yourself and you're lucky enough to find a competent, honest shop, stay with them. A shop I used occasionally had their A/C tech spend over an hour to find a leak in my A/C system. It was too expensive to fix and I didn't go ahead. They charged me nothing. Now, that's service!

 

That amounts to ~$1500 w. tax. First, you can do all of that yourself, except the alignment. I don't understand the business about "front and rear differential fluid change." What is your vehicle's service record, if any? Stay Away from dealers!! They will load you with unnecessary charges for service that is suspect they even perform. Do everything yourself that you're capable of, or enlist the aid of a friend. If you're a woman, Red Alert!

 

Here are approx prices in CAD for the parts and fluids involved in the service:

Spark Plug Replacement: $50 == DENSO 5356, NGK 92315 or NGK 96358, 4pcs
Front and Rear Differential Fluid Change: $50-60 == brand name synth gear oil 75W-90, 2 L
Transmission Fluid Swap: $100 == MaxLife ATF, 10L
Brake Fluid Flush: $25 == BOSCH ESI6, 2qt
Coolant Flush: $30 == OEM coolant, concentrate, 1 jug

Alignments - are not normal service item, if car doesn't pull to side, tires wearing normally and no suspension components replaced then skip it.
Induction service - keep using Top Tier gas, basically any brand name gas and add Injector Cleaner (e.g. Techron or Gumout Regane High Mileage) in half full tank once a year.

Speak with a mechanic, see if you can provide parts and just pay for work/labor. Since you for to NJ once a year you can get parts like spark plugs and brake fluid from RockAuto and pick them up in USA, much cheaper.

 

Induction service - keep using Top Tier gas, basically any brand name gas and add Injector Cleaner (e.g. Techron or Gumout Regane High Mileage) in half full tank once a year.

Lots of debate on the usefulness of the fuel induction service, but adding anything to the tank won't clean the valves as fuel doesn't touch them in a GDI.

I get the fuel induction service (and throttle body service) done approx. every 20,000kms (I drive about 15,000kms a year, mostly short frequent trips so the engine rarely gets warmed up a lot). My driving habits and plan to keep the car for 11-12 years keeps be wanting to stay on top of the carbon on the valves.

For OP, with 120,000kms on it of mostly city driving I would actually hesitate to use a chemical-based intake cleaner as I would think that the carbon is already built up. Using a cleaner now might loosen chunks of carbon from what I have read, as a chemical cleaner is more about prevention I think. But I'm not a mechanic so someone else might chime in with more knowledge than I. I'd be more inclined to get walnut-blasting done at this point, but only if the car idles poorly and/or fuel economy has gone down.

 

That's why I didn't suggest valves cleaning, injector cleaner does help dissolve some gunk in tank and around fuel pump inside tank as well as cleans fuel lines and injectors.

 

Its best to use your owners manual for maintenance intervals. and use the severe usage chart,no matter how or where you drive