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Your mechanic is correct, it basically needs to be done every 10,000 miles
Based upon what test and what metric? I know of no owners of a 3.3L GDI Kia/Hyundai engine that have had need for anything approaching 10K intake service. Other manufacturers' engines are FAR more prone to this problem, and would be better candidates for that advice.
@octavian_kia
"... from a few manufacturers."
And has he had a look inside a Kia to confirm it suffers from this kind of issue early on? As noted above, there are some (not all) other makes whose GDi engines have major carbon issues, but not seeing it on these particular GDi engines.
 

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2020 Kia Sorento SX, 2013 Hyundai Elantra GT Tech pkg. Former 2014 Kia Rondo EX Luxury,
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Your mechanic is correct, it basically needs to be done every 10,000 miles. Sugest doing it right before an oil change, so if some of it contaminants the oil no big deal. How to Clean Intake Valves On Hyundai & KIA Engines with CRC GDI IVD® Intake Valve Cleaner - Bing video
The first time I found that video titled "How to clean Intake Valves with CRC Cleaner" I was disappointed that it didn't show me how to clean the intake valves with the CRC intake cleaner. It does a great job of explaining why I should do it.
 

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@octavian_kia
"... from a few manufacturers."
And has he had a look inside a Kia to confirm it suffers from this kind of issue early on? As noted above, there are some (not all) other makes whose GDi engines have major carbon issues, but not seeing it on these particular GDi engines.
I never asked him, but I do know that most of his experience is with GM vehicles.
 

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The first time I found that video titled "How to clean Intake Valves with CRC Cleaner" I was disappointed that it didn't show me how to clean the intake valves with the CRC intake cleaner. It does a great job of explaining why I should do it.
This is preventive maintenance, Kia just started making this type of engine. As they get more miles on the motor, and people don't keep up on cleaning the intake valves. This will be costly to clean off all the carbon buildup. Their are a lot of YouTube videos on this subject, and how to clean them.
 

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All very interesting. I took note from the owners manual. Use Top Tier Fuel which appears to eliminate this requirement for the most part. I rarely buy non Top Tier gas for our Sorento.

Also the CRC video they provide conveniently does NOT detail a proceedure even though the mention these engines!! I wonder why not.
 
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All very interesting. I took note from the owners manual. Use Top Tier Fuel which appears to eliminate this requirement for the most part. I rarely buy non Top Tier gas for our Sorento.
Unfortunately, the fuel used has little to do with it on a GDi engine. The problem begins at the back of the valves, and unlike non-GDi engines, the fuel never sees the back of the valve during the intake stroke. This is also why fuel additives can't help. While top tier fuel will have other worthwhile benefits, this doesn't happen to be one of them.
 

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I do understand that. However, isn't the carbon a by product of the gas being burned. With better/cleaner gas less deposits are likely the result. They way I was looking at it. We all know from decades that dirty gas does cause problems. But with much less crap the valve ends up cleaner longer.

I am not saying using Shell, Petro Canada, Esso/Mobil fuel is a total answer. But is believed to mitigate the accumulation. Hence its in print in the owners manual. (Those are the only Top Tier Fuel brands in Canada. FYI)
 

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2020 Kia Sorento SX, 2013 Hyundai Elantra GT Tech pkg. Former 2014 Kia Rondo EX Luxury,
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I was reading (pretty sure it was at Bob is The oil guy) that the main factor in preventing or slowing this down is using an oil with a low Noack. It might have been one of the studies listed here: NOAK evaporation and GDI engines If you scroll the thread there is a typical BITOG argument about it lol. It also makes sense that forum would look at oil as the main factor.

Low evaporation of your oil makes sense to me. Another thing I try to do is use gas that has less ethanol in it. From what I read it does not burn as clean as 100% gas. Short trips in the car, where the engine does not get a chance to really warm up can't be good either. See here: Ask An Engineer: GDI Problems In A Nutshell - The Truth About Cars

The issue is that there seems to not be too much consensus on GDI engines, and I hesitate to even write the steps I take above because if challenged, you will be hard-pressed to prove anything...there are too many variables I think that says that approach A is better than approach B. Throw in marketing and people on boards guessing, and it gets tough to determine with 100% certainty how to proceed.
 

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Low evaporation of your oil makes sense to me. Another thing I try to do is use gas that has less ethanol in it. From what I read it does not burn as clean as 100% gas. Short trips in the car, where the engine does not get a chance to really warm up can't be good either. See here: Ask An Engineer: GDI Problems In A Nutshell - The Truth About Cars
I've been cracking open engines since I was 14 and a neighbor decided to teach me about cars and engines. That was almost 60 years ago and not much has changed when it comes to short driving cars - it is the kiss of death from a carbon standpoint (and it will kill an exhaust rather quickly as well from moisture not burning off completely). I suspect on a GDI engine, the problem is only exacerbated. Cars run at such low rpms these days that the motor isn't being "exercised" on a regular basis (the old Italian tuneup that has its roots in reality - ask Ferrari) and combine that with a lot of short trips and buildup is inevitable.

Not much I can do about the ethanol - every station here has the old 10% sticker on their pumps and I know there is a push to go to 15%. If I could buy non-ethanol laced gasoline anywhere here, I would but it just doesn't exist in my neck of the woods.

I'm going to use the CRC product about every 25K miles - that's five oil changes for me. If the car is still running solid at 200,000 miles, it will have proved absolutely nothing, other than it didn't hurt anything. Unless there is a control car that isn't using it, driven almost exactly like ours, and gets to 200K miles, one car is a useless database but, it makes me feel good that it will easily go to 200K so what the heck.
 

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I do understand that. However, isn't the carbon a by product of the gas being burned.
Nope. From everything I've read, it's the recirculated oil vapor that causes most of the problems. Thank the EPA for the wonders of recirculating things back into your intake that you'd never want there, and that DOES get into the engine courtesy of the intake valves (vs. the fuel, which does not).
 

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I do understand that. However, isn't the carbon a by product of the gas being burned. With better/cleaner gas less deposits are likely the result. They way I was looking at it. We all know from decades that dirty gas does cause problems. But with much less crap the valve ends up cleaner longer.

I am not saying using Shell, Petro Canada, Esso/Mobil fuel is a total answer. But is believed to mitigate the accumulation. Hence its in print in the owners manual. (Those are the only Top Tier Fuel brands in Canada. FYI)
You forgot to include Co-op, Costco, Texaco and 4 others. Top Tier Gasoline Brands
 

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I've been cracking open engines since I was 14 and a neighbor decided to teach me about cars and engines. That was almost 60 years ago and not much has changed when it comes to short driving cars - it is the kiss of death from a carbon standpoint (and it will kill an exhaust rather quickly as well from moisture not burning off completely). I suspect on a GDI engine, the problem is only exacerbated. Cars run at such low rpms these days that the motor isn't being "exercised" on a regular basis (the old Italian tuneup that has its roots in reality - ask Ferrari) and combine that with a lot of short trips and buildup is inevitable.

Not much I can do about the ethanol - every station here has the old 10% sticker on their pumps and I know there is a push to go to 15%. If I could buy non-ethanol laced gasoline anywhere here, I would but it just doesn't exist in my neck of the woods.

I'm going to use the CRC product about every 25K miles - that's five oil changes for me. If the car is still running solid at 200,000 miles, it will have proved absolutely nothing, other than it didn't hurt anything. Unless there is a control car that isn't using it, driven almost exactly like ours, and gets to 200K miles, one car is a useless database but, it makes me feel good that it will easily go to 200K so what the heck.
You need to look at your manual about the use of CRC product about every 25K miles. I believe it's every 10,000 miles to use a cleaner, if you wait beyond that time you're going to have issues.
 

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You need to look at your manual about the use of CRC product about every 25K miles. I believe it's every 10,000 miles to use a cleaner, if you wait beyond that time you're going to have issues.
I think your confusing their recommendation of fuel system cleaner. There is no recommendation in my manual about cleaning the valves, that is not something KIA would want to get on paper. It's two completely different procedures and there is no definitive mileage for doing the CRC, or any other valve cleaning treatment, we are all flying blind here.
 

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I think your confusing their recommendation of fuel system cleaner. There is no recommendation in my manual about cleaning the valves, that is not something KIA would want to get on paper. It's two completely different procedures and there is no definitive mileage for doing the CRC, or any other valve cleaning treatment, we are all flying blind here.
Yeah a lot of folks get thrown off by GDI vs Port injection. Also, I thought that fuel cleaning was only advised if you don't use top-tier fuel.
 

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Hyundai/Kia hasn't admitted to IVD or port deposits. So, they want to believe that their engineering is so perfect and they don't make mistakes. Just ask any owner of the the 50k failed theta-2 engines. Hyundai/Kia has been slowly moving to 'blended' or 'dual' injection... running both MPFI and GDI on the same engine, just like Ford/Toyota... has done. They know the problem exists whether they will admit to it or not.

I run a spray can/bottle/... of IVD/port cleaner in all my GDI-only engines from ALL makes/models EVERY year. Each car gets about 7-12k miles a year of usage and 2-3 oil/filter changes with the best oils/filters I can get. I am not waiting to find out that the automaker screwed up and built a lemon engine. Warranty doesn't cover intake valve or port deposits. None of mine have had the issues that is common among the brands that R&D'd GDI on the guinea pig consumer.

Whether you use Toptier fuel or not, I still recommend a bottle of PEA based FI cleaner on a time or mileage basis.

Every brand of spray or liquid or foaming cleaner has directions. Read the bottle or box that it came in. I don't see any one better/worse than any other and simply rotate among the brands.

BTW, without knowing the product and method that ANY shop or dealer uses, I WOULD NOT BOTHER WITH THEIR PROFIT MAKER ADD-ONS.

Blasting, with walnut or baking soda media, just means you went too long without addressing the continuous buildup. Yes, VW/BMW and various automakers, with their head up their arse, didn't address the problem incrementally or at all. Instead, you got a good and expensive service when it was too late.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
All very interesting. I took note from the owners manual. Use Top Tier Fuel which appears to eliminate this requirement for the most part. I rarely buy non Top Tier gas for our Sorento.

Also the CRC video they provide conveniently does NOT detail a proceedure even though the mention these engines!! I wonder why not.
I wouldn't know where to go to buy non top-tier fuel so that's not an issue.
 

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Hyundai/Kia hasn't admitted to IVD or port deposits.
Many of the 3.3L GDi have a lot of miles on them now. Still waiting to hear about all of those dire results from not using something special in the intake. It's demonstrably true that some makes have a much bigger problem with this than others. Unlike GM and a couple of German makes that are notorious for this, I don't see Kia and Hyundai owners having intakes pulled and cleaned due to performance issues. Hmmm....
 

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Many of the 3.3L GDi have a lot of miles on them now. Still waiting to hear about all of those dire results from not using something special in the intake. It's demonstrably true that some makes have a much bigger problem with this than others. Unlike GM and a couple of German makes that are notorious for this, I don't see Kia and Hyundai owners having intakes pulled and cleaned due to performance issues. Hmmm....
This happens over time, when you've changed over to new technology and they get a lot of miles on the motor. That's when you'll start seeing problems. DO NOT buy a GDI engine or direct injection? - YouTube
 

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This happens over time, when you've changed over to new technology and they get a lot of miles on the motor.
Right. And as I noted, "Many of the 3.3L GDI have a lot of miles on them now". We're talking 100K+ miles for those that get driven a lot. Remember - this engine was released as the G6DM version by Hyundai in 2012 in the Azera and Cadenza. If Kia/Hyundai were going to have a real problem with this, we'd be hearing about it already. Looks like they were one of the manufacturers that dodged that particular bullet.
 
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