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2005 Sorento ex v6 automatic
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Discussion Starter #1
well it happened again....for no known reason 2nd time, no lights left on, or any other visable reason.
only 4.75 volts in battery. first time was 2 months ago, i thought i had left the interior lights on so i charged the batt, but i realy did not think i left them on, and the dealer did not want me to bring the vehicle in. now i know i did not. this vehicle has to be dependable.
i will be interesting to see how the kia dealer handles this erratic problem
:angry:
 

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2005 Sorento ex v6 automatic
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Discussion Starter #3
well i just heard from the dummys at the dealer, they said the cause of the problum was the trailer wiring and controler i installed.....so i said why did it do the samething befor i installed these items ? no answer....i said how much current are these owner installed items drawing ? the mechanic did not say...well go find out...no...why not...sielnce.
i said the problum is in the vehicle go look again, if you and the mechanic don't want to look for an erratic problum and quickly want to blame the owner for a properly installed brake controler i don't think much of your dealership.....more silence, if you don't like our service call kia customer service, so i did, as a matter of record, the person on the other end said he called the dealer but could not get through the the service dept, BS!
so what was ther final fix for the problum.
they found no current draw other than normal (my stuff included)
they just charged the battery !

they also charged my battery for good fight when i go to pick it up!!

p.s. this is the same brake controller i use in our astro van and it's batt has never gone dead !
i have been a mechanic all of my working life and i can spot a dumb one....they have at least one at that dealer!!
:angry: :angry: :angry:
 

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I agree with ya. Its not the brake controler. I too think it could be the alternator. Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Originally posted by fastkia@May 3 2005, 10:05 PM
I don't want to sound rude but if you've being a mechanic your whole working life why don't you test it yourself and show the dealer your final results mybe they'll take you more serious next time? Also I can tell you from expirience that ("it's the altenator") I must use quotation marks.
[post=]Quoted post[/post]​
your not being rude at all, it takes a few days to get all my ducks in a row as to say
:thumbsup:
i just did last last night, took static battery voltage reading and voltage draw readings, ohm readings on all the items i installed, found no draw and no shorts
your not being rude at all, it takes a few days to get all my ducks in a row as to say

today i took to an independent repair facility and at "no charge" to me they went a series of test and found nothing wrong with items i installed or the brake controller
also they said the installation was excellent.

and it was their opnion that the kia dealer delt with my vehicle in both in testing and service maners were inapproate at the very least

the independent repair facility felt that the problum will continue and maybe an "altenator"
or a faulty relay

i am in the process of sending a copy of the independent repair facility and my test results to the parts/service manager at the kia dealership registered mail

p.s. from the start i suppected the altenator as in (leaky rectifier, voltage threashold type leak)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
update to my dead sorento, went back to the dealer. the mechanic made the same tests but did not know how may amps it was drawing (my installed brake controller)
i don't know why he could not figure it out (duh)
i gave the mechanic the complete story....i will make this short, the batt went dead below 5 volts before i installed the brake controler, and after
after explaining to the mechanic the whole story and the fact the the service manager did not want to here the whole stroy at the time it was towed in, the mechanics responce was "well she is new at her job" i also explained that even before i installed the brake controller, with the key out of the ignition and the doors closed i was hearing a cherping from the sorentos horns (bearly hearable) every appx 15 minuets. i had forgot this
after proving to the mechanic that the brake controller would take 263 days to discharge the battery to 10.5 he agreed.
he also agreed that the draw was in the wehicle somewhere else....so just to do something...the swapped the horn relay with the fog light relay, at lest something was done and my installed accessories were elliminated as the cause
can i depend on this vehicle camping i rural pa. with no cell phone service.....long hike to the nearest phone? but oh well i am a hiker!
:crying:
 

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My 2 week old Sorento went dead also. :angry: This was after I left it parked in our garage and using it only once during each weekend. Although I've successfully had the battery recharged overnight and it's ready to go again, I'm concerned that the battery could quit on me anytime I leave the car parked in a most inconvenient and untimely place. :(

beyond_help, did you finally identify the root cause of your "Dead Sorento"? Thanks in advance. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
no, but it went dead in about 10 hours down to less than 5 volts, in reading other posts i beleive it to be a sticking fan relay. between the first and second time it was about 2 months, i don't think it has been that long since it has last gone dead....time should not have anything to do with it though.
when ever i shut the engine off i listen to make sure the radiator fans are not running.
also there is some question that it might be a faulty altinater
so at this point it has not yet been resolved.
in addition my horns eraticly "cherp" by themselves, which may also be the cause of the battery going dead.
here is the sticky point , "the conveience group module" AKA remote reciever. i beleive is the cause of the horns cherping, this part has a list price of about $ 266.00 US, not expensive to kia
and these are known to be buggy!!!
and the dealer will not replace it unless they can prove it is bad, kia knows these are faulty and won't admit to it.
that is why i beleive some dealer and after market allarms will not work properly and have to be removed and nobody can convince me differently.
on 6/15 our sorento gos in to have the cherping horns looked at and the grill replaced.
and guess what. KIA BLOCKED any work on the cherping horns last week because i installed a brake controller on the vehicle!!! they also blaimed the battery going dead on that also!!! because the tech did not know how to check voltage draw!
what a load of crap.
i called KIA hot line and worked them over good citing that to tow max weight a trialer was required to have brakes!! and in the towing section of the owner manuel it describes useage of brake controlers!!
after our little discussion they agreed that the brake controller was no longer an issue BS!!
they had previously agreed the the brake controller was not an issue.
so i guess ever time i go in for some electrical problem they will keep throwing that at me!!
what good is a vehicle if a manufactuer has no intention of honoring a warrenty and their mechanics are stupid!!

KIA hot line service said will keep my complaint open untill i am satisfied, oh yah!
i am starting to be sorry i purchased this THING !
:( :(
 

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As they say, don't throw the baby out with the bath water. You have one problem and one problem dealer, and I'd say your dealer is the biggest one of the two. Intermittent problems are the most difficult and labor intensive to find. You can spend hours looking for a problem and still not find it. You seem pretty smart and you've spent some time diagnosing your own problem, and still you haven't found it.

The chirping horns are a start to the problem. Do they chirp like beep, beep, or is is more of a constant quiet honk?

The fans can and will turn on automatically even after the engine is turned off. For a brief time after the engine stops running, the coolant temperature actually increases because it isn't flowing anymore.

I'm not sure where you get the "convenience group module" name, but the unit is called ETACS and it controls a whole lot of things, including keyless entry. I guess it does control the convenience features though, so you are right.

"Kia knows they are faulty and won't admit to it"? This is news to me, and I'm not sure where you heard it. Dealers give people shit about things under warranty because they can't mark up the part for warranty; only when they actually sell something do they make money on a part, just like every other dealer. When a part is bad, they order it and Kia pays for it, no questions asked. Kia doesn't reject parts replacement unless it's something expensive and repair is more acceptable than replacement. Like a noisy lifter and the dealer is ordering a replacement engine. They will also reject claims if the part has been abused, like an engine that ran out of oil because it wasn't changed in 30K miles.

Usually electronic problems are constant, unless something mechanical, like a wire in motion or a loose connection is the problem. The drain, when it happens, seems to be pretty substantial. Did anyone check the battery cable connections to ground/alternator/starter for loosness or corrosion?

Unless you have an option to go to another dealer, you may be stuck looking for the problem yourself. The way your dealer is behaving, you may be better off.

"Online diagnosis" is not very easy, but I'll help you any way that I can if you want it.
 

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What about the low voltage shutoff that is supposed to isolate the battery once the voltage drops below a certain point? I accidentally left my lights on one day when I had to take my son to the hospital and it worked like it's supposed to. When I came out 8 hours later she started right up even though the lights came on when I engaged the ignition. If I hadn't had that feature my battery would have been completely dead. I personally have stopped buying conventional lead-acid bath batteries in favor of optima sealed spiral units. I just put one in my car the other day after its battery went bad and stopped holding a charge. Even though my sorento has lots of warranty left I'm actually considering installing an optima and just keeping the factory battery as an extra.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i read "the battery saver" section in the manuel. if i remember correctly you can not leave your lights on. if your lights are on and you pull the key from the ignition and exit the vehicle the lights shut off and come back on when you restart the vehicle (mine do) but there is a procedure to keep the parking lights on if you halve to.
also if i remember correctly, if i leave a door open long enough the interior light shutoff after a period of time. i will reconfirm this.

the service manager told me "if there is a draw on the battery without the engine running the "horns will beep" LOL, why don't i beleive him!

have your horns ever beeped by themselves ? or "cherped is i call it" bearly audible every 15 to 20 minuets, with everything shut off.

i will see on 6/15 if kia is realy serious about fixing this anoying problem and revisiting my "dead sorento" problem

replacing the defective grill (due to defective chrome plating) seems not to be a problem

i will ask the service manager about the "low voltage cut off" and ask him to explain it to me. in the mean time i will read my owner manuel still another time !
 

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My horn has never sounded when there was draw on the battery without the engine running. I noticed tonight that my battery seems to be leaking on the top. I know that during hot weather they vent gas but there is a visible area of puddling on the very top of my battery.
 

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I am an additional potential member for the beyond-hope group. Having owned my Kia for three days the battery was near dead (no lights, but beeping when the key was inserted with the door opened). I did not check the voltage, but spent all of Saturday trickle charging the battery. I did not leave any lights on, and the horn did not beep during the night before (it sits right outside my home office window and I would have noticed. The batery seems normal now, and until I read the beyong hope dexcriptions, I had assumed that perheps the battery had never been fully charged at the dealers??? It currently (sic) reads 12.5 volts on the mucltimeter (I am not a mechaniic - does that seem reasonable?). I also charged the bettery in the car with the hood open, after having disconnected both cables in spite of what the manual says, which advises that you remove the battery from the car.

I will follow this thread with interest and hope that beyond-hope gets his problem identified and corrected. Not only do I hope that he gets his problems resolved but I am hopoing to be be able to use his experience in my dealings the the dealer, for whom troubleshooting somehting like this must be a nightmare - almost as much of a negative experience as the lack of trust we are developing in our Sorento, whom we would really like to trust and love.

cheers, Manuel from Penetang, Ontario, Canada.
 

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Sometimes, when a battery goes completely dead, it will never be the same again. Other times, you won't notice a difference. The dealer should have a way of testing it, but even that's not completely accurate. When I bought my Mitsubishi, the battery went dead the next night. I took it to the dealer and they charged it. It would start the car, but I couldn't listen to the stereo with the car off for more than an hour. They tested the battery and said it was good. Then I went to work and checked the battery myself (load, voltage, and specific gravity), and it did say it was good, but it wasn't good enough for me. I've also worked on cars with a dead cell in the battery that still showed good, even though the car wouldn't even turn over.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
puddling of fluid or venting wet vapors on top of battery in maintance free batterys is something i do not recall seeing, unless the battery is reaching the end of it's serviceable life or been banged around alot or been subject to over charging.

what i am about to say my seem strange or stupid for a lack of a better word, but in 23 years as a fork lift mechanic when i saw fliuds i could not recognize around a battery i would sometimes give them a "taste test" battery acid is not as strong as you might believe.
sometimes what was on the top of batterys was just water from ?? whatever

i addition, to the kiamech, you sound much more intelligent and trained than most of the mechanics that i have worked with in 11 years as a ford mech and 23 years as a electric fork lift mechanic
it is ashame that TRAINING COSTS takes a back seat to short term PROFIT , although training must be coupled with experiance, and deadication to a job well done.

as a flatrate ford mechanic i could not make enough money HONESTLY, so i became a forklift mechanic, paid by hour only, and worked on the road with little or no supervision.

sorry for venting a little
 

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We're all here to vent a little.

I agree with the training statement. Cheap labor is more of what companies seem to look for, unfortunately. My Dad has an auto repair business with two very experienced, very good, high paid mechanics. Every job I tackle I compare myself to them and think "what would they do" or "how would they do this". It kind of gives me a challenge and a goal to be that good.

Training is never over. You train to start your career and you train to keep it going. It does seem that the automotive repair industry is overflowing with incompetence though. Good mechanics are hard to find. It's even harder to find a young one with potential to be good. Cars are getting to be so technical that you almost have to have a degree in electronics, except those people don't like to get dirty.
 

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I had mentioned about my battery's going dead after only three days. I had slow-charged the battery all-day Saturday as suggested by the handbook, I was told by the service manager at the selling dealers on Monday that this would not be enough of a charge for the 700 amp battery and to phone him if my battery went dead again. He was serious when he said that; I wondered.
After some deliberation, I decided to monitor things for a while amd try to educate myself. The ooltage didn't change (about 12.5), I checked the voltage with the car running (14) and kept the dome lights off. I had occurred to me that perhaps the battery had not been charged enough by the dealer and that the car was used infrequently while sitting on the lot. Perhaps my slow charge was the first one the car had ever had.
When I told a neighbour who is a farmer and heavy equpment mechanic and general mechanical whiz about my problem he offered to test the batery. His tests showed that the battery was now fine and that the alternator worked appropriately as well. So my guess that the battery had suffered from inadeaquate charging and disuse at the dealer's was perhaps correct, and explained why it originally went dead affter only three days. Basicallly, I think I restored it to appropriate functioning with the slow charge and the type of driving I do out here in the coutry. Some net-research suggested that most batteries returned under wattanty are not faulty, but usually come from vehicles with a lot of powered eauipment amd which are driven very little. I am assuming that my problem is solved, no thanks to the service department. I f anything untoward happens again, I will start a new thread. Meantime, I hope that "beyond help" will solve his problem. He helped my out by sending useful information about trailer hitch installations and I would like to thank him again in this forum. ManuelH
 

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Good news. :) My Sorento has never gone dead again ever since I charged the battery overnight. I guess the only reason why my 2-week old Sorento (at that time) went dead was because I only used it for 2 very short trips over a 2 week period and, to start with, the battery may not have been fully charged at the dealer. Except for the vehicle's slight tendency to pull to the right on the highway, I am very much pleased with this SUV.
 
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